My fan is NOISY!!! Its noisy in AC mode, defrost mode, heat mode, vent mode.... It really sounds like a leaf got sucked in. I don't wanna mess with the dealer since I don't think its a warranty thing. So, is it as simple as dropping the glove box and three screws for the blower as I have read?
2012 Eco.....
My dad's 2010 F150 is making some funny noises when you open the tailgate. What was the cause? Seems like something is going awry with the torsion bar.
2010 F150 tailgate noise - YouTube...
Started up today and no response from the A/C fan on any speed- dual climate control. Checked all fuses good. Electronic control panel shows normal with all the fan speeds, but no blower motor action.
Is it the motor or a resistor/controller? Thought with a bad resistor you would get the fan on at least in one speed.
Started up today and no response from the A/C fan on any speed- dual climate control. Checked all fuses good. Electronic control panel shows normal with all the fan speeds, but no blower motor action. Is it the motor or a resistor/controller? Thought with a bad resistor you would get the fan on at least in one speed.
View 4 RepliesMy blower on my 2010 Lariat truck isn't working and I can't seem to figure the issue. No heat or AC. It seems that some air is coming through, and the fan indicator shows it on high, but nothing.
View 8 RepliesHave a 2009 platinum, 5.4, supercrew with dualzone heating and air. The blower motor resistor block is overheating and melting the connector block. fooled with it way too much, and then put a new resistor and pigtail in it. The new resistor would kick out in about 30 seconds, so used the old resistor on the new pigtail, got hot, melted the new pigtail. What is causing the resistor block to get so hot, and what do I do about it?
View 7 Replies2011 FX2, 81,000 miles, with dual control A/C. The blower motor works fine on speeds 1-5. Put it on speed 6 or 7 and the motor trips after about 5 seconds. Turn it back below 6 or 7 and it starts working fine. I have replaced the resistor and the blower with the same results.
I have read through a good deal of the posts and most seem to deal with the resistor and the lower speeds not working. It's like its tripping a breaker or overload.
What is the testing procedures for the blower motor controller on my 2009 150 Lariat. In the old days it was called the resistor but now it is computer controlled for the dual climate control. My fan is stuck on high, the fan switch does work(the bars on the display change when I push the fan speed button). The climate control works also, just blasts you with air and the temp is changing a lot due to the fact of the fan on High. I am 99% sure it is the blower motor controller, but I would like to test the controller.
View 14 RepliesMy blower fan will not run on setting 1. on 2 3 and 4 it will work but not on the lowest setting. I replaced the relay and it still doesn't work. I have a 2010 f150 with the 2v 4.6 .....
View 6 RepliesWas 7 degrees F out this morning. Went to turn on the defrost and heard this: (may need to turn up audio a bit)
2013 F150 HVAC blower noise in cold temps - YouTube
There was some snow/ice buildup under the "grate" that sits above that I imagine is the air intake for the blower. Hoping that it was just Ice buildup that will thaw out.
I ended up having to turn it on because the condensation on the windshield was becoming a safety issue when I drove into work. Motor made quite a high pitched wine. Better that than slid into a car.
In the last few weeks I have noticed that when I have the control set to floor only (manual system, not dual) I still have more air going to windshield than the floor. I can switch to Windshield/Floor, Center Vent and all seems ok. Just when in floor only it seems to keep going to Windshield. Asked the service rep at last oil change and he said it's normal for some air to always go to the windshield/defrost. I'm going back to dealer and check a new F150 XLT to verify I have a problem.
View 1 RepliesI did not want to high jack the threat about the blower motor stuck on high, but on rare occasions my blower will quit all together if it is turned up too quickly. I can still hear the compressor clicking on and off, but no air moving. after waiting a few minutes it will work fine if you adjust the blower control slowly.
My truck is a 2012 lariat supercrew with navi and dual climate controls. oh and i believe i have about 300 miles left on warranty, but it is not doing it on a regular basis, i doubt the local ford dealership will repair it.
So I have a 2012 xlt 5.0l single cab. Standard heat/ac with the non-navigation sync system. The blower and heat dosent work. The radio doesn't work on fm or Bluetooth. For the most part the screek doesn't say anything but if I hit the power button on the stereo the time pops up for a second. The key fob also doesn't work. When I click on the font the center console will light up but nothing will happen. The key doesn't work in the door but I'm not sure if it ever did. Intermittently it all comes back on and works just fine but cuts out again. A few times hitting the dash has made it all come back on. When it all isn't working and I press the eject button on the stereo the deck tries to spit something out and it says eject on the screen so I know the screen and the cd part of the stereo are getting power all the time. The Bluetooth doesn't work and the USB port doesn't work or charge my phone. The lights on the center console are all working but it doesn't dim when I dim the dash. I am baffled on what it could be and the harness is impossible to follow.
View 2 RepliesAfter turning the truck off and restarting, the towhaul button needs to be pressed to turn it on, I always forget this and pull into traffic, my question is can towhaul mode be turned on and off "on the fly" or do I need to be at a complete stop? I looked through the manual, It doesn't say that I have to be stopped. I never had an auto trans. with this option before.
View 4 RepliesI was driving down the highway tonight and slid the sunroof back. When I went to close it I heard a loud click and got concerned. When I touched the butt to slide it again, it didn't move. I tried the other button and it didn't do anything. Just clicked. So, I finished my trip home as it sounded and seemed sealed. When I got home, I tried the buttons again, and only the told function worked, but only to the point of raising it.
Now I can't lower it.
2012 King Ranch completely optioned out. Never had any issues from it until last month when I had the A/C replaced at Ford. They broke my original factory windshield in the process and ended up replacing it, with another original, free of charge. I don't wanna jump to conclusions, but could they have damaged the sunroof intentionally to try to get me back there to recoop their losses?
I replaced the blower motor resistor on a 2010 F150 with dual climate control where the blower was stuck on high.
After replacing the resistor, now the lower speeds work fine, but when placed on high speed, the fan completely shuts down. Replace with the old resistor, and it only runs on high.
How to proceed, or what else might be the problem?
Was on the highway cruising along and punched it to pass a slower vehicle. As I've done many times before without issue. Got a flashing CEL and it went into what I assume is a type of limp mode. I reduced the throttle input to the point the CEL cleared and full power returned. I did not have to stop the truck and key-off etc. I also made no further attempts to see if it would do it again. What causes that? Kind of annoying to pull out to pass and you hit limp mode.
View 14 RepliesTruck: 2009 F-150 Lariat SCrew 5.4 4x4 with 6.5" bed
For the last few years, I've had this intermittent problem where the service engine light (wrench icon) will pop on and the truck will go into limp home mode. While it's in this mode, all of the indicators on the dash freak out. Low fuel warning will come on, temperature warning, low battery voltage, etc. Turning the truck off and back on (sometimes a couple times) is enough to get it back to normal, albeit with a check engine light that needs to be cleared. It's happened infrequent enough that I've just been dealing with it. I got the codes a couple years back, but there wasn't much information available on what the potential causes might be. The Checker Auto parts database suggested one might be related to a wheel speed sensor.
Well, this afternoon it happened again, and I was near an O'Reilly, so I took it in to pull the codes. There were 9 total in the system; 5 of which were unique:
B0025
B00D5
U0073
U0100
U0253
They didn't have any information on what was causing them. What could be causing this. I'm getting sick of having to clear the check engine light and worry about the truck falling into limp home mode when I'm at intersections.
I have a 2012 ecoboost, recently I went to the trip gauge mode and the display screen for trip A had a yellow rectangle imposed over the time,mpg ect.and would not function correctly. When I switch to trip B info, all info operated correctly and no yellow rectangle in trip B mode. Trip A mode continues be inoperable and still has the yellow rectangle even after the engine was shut off several times during the day.
View 3 RepliesExperienced a noisy blower from the engine bay when turning on the A/C? It's kinda a squeaky noise. But when I turn off the A/C, just the fan...it doesn't sound as loud.
View 4 RepliesSo i noticed, when in auto mode, whether sport mode is on or off, it does the same thing. If i floor it from a stand still, the transmission takes noticeably longer to go from 1st into 2nd then from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, etc. 1st to 2nd takes like a good second, kinda like this:
1st VROOOOM.....................2nd VROOOM..3rd VROOOM..4th.....etc..
If I drive it in manual mode, then it shifts just as fast. So this only happens in auto.