Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: No Response From A/C Fan Blower?
Jul 22, 2014
Started up today and no response from the A/C fan on any speed- dual climate control. Checked all fuses good. Electronic control panel shows normal with all the fan speeds, but no blower motor action.
Is it the motor or a resistor/controller? Thought with a bad resistor you would get the fan on at least in one speed.
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Started up today and no response from the A/C fan on any speed- dual climate control. Checked all fuses good. Electronic control panel shows normal with all the fan speeds, but no blower motor action. Is it the motor or a resistor/controller? Thought with a bad resistor you would get the fan on at least in one speed.
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Title says it all come to a stop, step on throttle nothing, let off and step on it again it goes, does some one have to be killed before Ford knows there's a problem, it's happened to me 3 or 4 times in the last month, dealer checked said there's no codes so nothing wrong. OK I forgot the good info 2014 eco screw 4X4.
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Resetting Throttle Response. I came across this video, bored and just playing around, and tried it on my 2013.......and it works! Turn the ignition key to the run position, then slowly press the accelerator pedal to the floor. Then let the pedal up fast, then turn the ignition off. Do this 3 times, and on the last time, also turn the ignition off. I was amazed that that the lagging pedal response was almost completely gone!
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Experiencing sluggish throttle response on the EFI Ecoboost? I have had several incidents where I'm needing to change lanes fast and the response is a dead second or two before the motor catches up to the throttle position. Then, it rockets forward at full throttle to catch up. By that time it's too late to change lanes and I have to be on the brakes hard to keep from rear ending the guy in front of me. I'm coming from a carburetored Toyota Tacoma that was far more responsive (minus the power) then this truck. I never felt hesitant to jump on it and go. Now I feel like my life depends on waiting until I have all day to change lanes, make a left turn or pass a slow moving vehicle on a two lane road. Is this something the dealer can adjust?
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My blower on my 2010 Lariat truck isn't working and I can't seem to figure the issue. No heat or AC. It seems that some air is coming through, and the fan indicator shows it on high, but nothing.
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My fan is NOISY!!! Its noisy in AC mode, defrost mode, heat mode, vent mode.... It really sounds like a leaf got sucked in. I don't wanna mess with the dealer since I don't think its a warranty thing. So, is it as simple as dropping the glove box and three screws for the blower as I have read?
2012 Eco.....
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Have a 2009 platinum, 5.4, supercrew with dualzone heating and air. The blower motor resistor block is overheating and melting the connector block. fooled with it way too much, and then put a new resistor and pigtail in it. The new resistor would kick out in about 30 seconds, so used the old resistor on the new pigtail, got hot, melted the new pigtail. What is causing the resistor block to get so hot, and what do I do about it?
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2011 FX2, 81,000 miles, with dual control A/C. The blower motor works fine on speeds 1-5. Put it on speed 6 or 7 and the motor trips after about 5 seconds. Turn it back below 6 or 7 and it starts working fine. I have replaced the resistor and the blower with the same results.
I have read through a good deal of the posts and most seem to deal with the resistor and the lower speeds not working. It's like its tripping a breaker or overload.
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What is the testing procedures for the blower motor controller on my 2009 150 Lariat. In the old days it was called the resistor but now it is computer controlled for the dual climate control. My fan is stuck on high, the fan switch does work(the bars on the display change when I push the fan speed button). The climate control works also, just blasts you with air and the temp is changing a lot due to the fact of the fan on High. I am 99% sure it is the blower motor controller, but I would like to test the controller.
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My blower fan will not run on setting 1. on 2 3 and 4 it will work but not on the lowest setting. I replaced the relay and it still doesn't work. I have a 2010 f150 with the 2v 4.6 .....
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Was 7 degrees F out this morning. Went to turn on the defrost and heard this: (may need to turn up audio a bit)
2013 F150 HVAC blower noise in cold temps - YouTube
There was some snow/ice buildup under the "grate" that sits above that I imagine is the air intake for the blower. Hoping that it was just Ice buildup that will thaw out.
I ended up having to turn it on because the condensation on the windshield was becoming a safety issue when I drove into work. Motor made quite a high pitched wine. Better that than slid into a car.
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In the last few weeks I have noticed that when I have the control set to floor only (manual system, not dual) I still have more air going to windshield than the floor. I can switch to Windshield/Floor, Center Vent and all seems ok. Just when in floor only it seems to keep going to Windshield. Asked the service rep at last oil change and he said it's normal for some air to always go to the windshield/defrost. I'm going back to dealer and check a new F150 XLT to verify I have a problem.
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I did not want to high jack the threat about the blower motor stuck on high, but on rare occasions my blower will quit all together if it is turned up too quickly. I can still hear the compressor clicking on and off, but no air moving. after waiting a few minutes it will work fine if you adjust the blower control slowly.
My truck is a 2012 lariat supercrew with navi and dual climate controls. oh and i believe i have about 300 miles left on warranty, but it is not doing it on a regular basis, i doubt the local ford dealership will repair it.
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So I have a 2012 xlt 5.0l single cab. Standard heat/ac with the non-navigation sync system. The blower and heat dosent work. The radio doesn't work on fm or Bluetooth. For the most part the screek doesn't say anything but if I hit the power button on the stereo the time pops up for a second. The key fob also doesn't work. When I click on the font the center console will light up but nothing will happen. The key doesn't work in the door but I'm not sure if it ever did. Intermittently it all comes back on and works just fine but cuts out again. A few times hitting the dash has made it all come back on. When it all isn't working and I press the eject button on the stereo the deck tries to spit something out and it says eject on the screen so I know the screen and the cd part of the stereo are getting power all the time. The Bluetooth doesn't work and the USB port doesn't work or charge my phone. The lights on the center console are all working but it doesn't dim when I dim the dash. I am baffled on what it could be and the harness is impossible to follow.
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I replaced the blower motor resistor on a 2010 F150 with dual climate control where the blower was stuck on high.
After replacing the resistor, now the lower speeds work fine, but when placed on high speed, the fan completely shuts down. Replace with the old resistor, and it only runs on high.
How to proceed, or what else might be the problem?
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My wife got a 2014 Tiguan (R-Line) yesterday. Nice car but throttle response is slow.
Wondered to know about APR Stage 1 tune on a Tiguan.
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So have this 2010 Corolla LE. Been really cold here last while, did not drive for 2 days. Local temperatures around -20C ... Anyways today went to start car after having plug to block heater for 3 hours. Car did not start.
Thinking ignition switch... When I turn key. All lights come on. as normal. but when to try to turn over, no response from engine at all. no engine noise or anything, just see oil light come on and clicking sound.
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2010 corolla drove fine for a few hours after being rear ended, then has no throttle response. Will only go 20 MPH on flat ground. But, turn the car off for a few seconds and restart....and it has full throttle response which may continue for a few seconds after putting car in gear. Then it is back to no throttle response. Car is setting p0600 code. Traction control is off. VSC light is on. Looking for something knocked loose.
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Eco/Normal/Sport S/S+ Mode... the literature doesnt say much except it changes throttle response and power output. For the Sport modes it says that "The rear-wheel drive IS 350 F SPORT's Sport S+ mode also tightens the suspension..." Are the shocks somehow adjustable, or is this just marketing BS?
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I find it hard to smoothly accelerate from a stop with my V6 DSG. I have to be very careful how much pressure I apply to the gas to get a smooth take off...too easy to accelerate to fast or break the tires loose. Can this be reprogrammed?
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