Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: No Brakes And Lights?
Feb 22, 2015
Having issues with the trailer plug on my f150 seems like bad connection because when pulling a flatdeck last week ,only the driver side tail light would work every now and then ,( might've been the trailer too though) so i put on a new plug but still no luck tested it with one of them plug testers with LED lights,but doesn't seem like there's power at all. Even though when testing it with a volt meter i got anywhere between 20 and 28 volts just can't figure out what's wrong with this plug..
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We purchased a brand new 16' tandem trailer last night. Plugged it in to my husbands 2011 F150 and hooked it up, lights went on, directionals, hazards, and break lights will not go on UNLESS the trailer light itself is taken off the trailer. We are thinking a grounding issue.
We pulled our 2011 F150 up to another trailer, same issue, only the running lights works.
Two days ago a old single axle trailer worked fine, break lights, directionals, everything.
When the owner put electrical tape around the bolts that connected the lights to the trailer the directionals worked, then they tightened up the nuts it touched the metal part of the trailer, it (meaning directionals, hazards, break lights) stopped working, (but the running lights stayed on). Are we tripping or what the heck is going on here?
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I have a 2012 FX4, 5.0. The dealer tuned the front rotors and replaced the pads at 19k because of a bad vibration when brakes were applied. Now at 45k, the same thing is starting to happen again. I am pretty sure it is not my driving because my 2001 F150 4x4 had 162,000 miles on it and never had a rotor off of it or turned and was on the 3rd set of pads when I traded it on the 2012.
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2012 f150 5.0 liter....Every morning when I leave for work I back out of my drive way and when I push in the breaks they are super squeaky. When I got my tires rotated the dealer said breaks were fine. I noticed my neighbors f150 Eco boost does the same things but not as loud. When the breaks are warm it doesn't do it. Can this be prevented it wakes up my parents in the morning.
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2010 F-150 SuperCrew. The braking is overly aggressive especially at slow speeds. It is most noticable in parking lots when trying to ease into a parking space or just easing up to the curb. I took it back to the dealership and they printed a statement from Ford stating that aggressive brakes are normal and no adjustment should be made. It is annoying to the point my wife does not want to drive the truck. Obviously there have been enough complaints that Ford has a prepared statement.
Otherwise a great driving truck. I test drove two new Sierra SLE Texas Editions and the Ford drove much better. Also the GMC, hesitated everytime you leave from a dead stop.
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I have a 2012 Ford F 150 crew cab 4x 4 and have a problem it squeals in reverse. Brakes too and it's only in reverse and it's only for a short period of time as soon as I come to a complete stop.....
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I have a 2013 F150 with 80,000km+ Original front brakes. When I am driving around and hit any bumps, I can hear a rattle. A slight pedal will make the noise go away.
The pads still have lots of life in them, so besides replacing them, what can I do? Or, is it actually something else? I have a 100,000km warrentee.
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Just turned 17K miles on the truck in my sig, it's a 2wd SuperCab I use for work since day one. I admit this truck get worked hard daily, I do a lot of stopping in hilly terrain. I always have 400-800 lbs of tools and gear in the box. But are the brakes really showing signs of wear already?
Just started about a week ago, when I slow to a stop at low speed, example parking lot, drive-through etc... I get a screech. The brake feel is still smooth and not grinding so I'm snowed. A previous truck 2008 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab 4x4 worked as equally hard from day one of its life went 40k miles on OE pads/ rotors, I'm hoping my 1/2 ton F-150 can best that at the very least. Had an '05 Cummins Diesel worked probably harder that went more than 80k without so much as a peep from the pads.
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My neighbor has a 2010 or 2011 Screw with only less than 10K miles. He complains that the steering wheel vibrates when he applies the brakes; not all of the time, but most of the time. Could it be pads/rotors? With this mileage, and no stop and go traffic, I cannot believe it would be the pads/rotors.........
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2013 Platinum. See sig for details. 37,000 miles. 1 owner. Truck has been basically parked since June. However I take it out for a quick spin every 3 week for 10 miles or so. Currently has storage insurance on it.
When backing out of the garage the brakes are grinding and squealing bad. Also getting feedback through the steering wheel for the first couple miles which leads me to believe it's one or both the front brakes.
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I have a 2011 CC 4x4 ECOBOOST F150. I have 45,000 miles on it and the front brakes started squealing.
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red dash light comes on after 1 km, most times. dealer says abs module but no abs light or codes
brakes are fine
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Hooked up to my trailer and I have running lights but no turn signals, brake lights, or trailer brakes. I pulled plugged in my other vehicle to the trailer and everything works fine. My truck is a 2011 with the factory trailer brake control and pigtail connection. It worked fine last year.
I checked the connector with a test light and there is only power to the running lights. I then disconnected the plug at the back of the trailer connector and tested there and got the same results. Are there particular fuses or relays I should look at?
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My '11 has almost 60,000 miles on it and I've turned the front rotors down once already for a vibration at 42,000 miles. Front pads looked good at that time, but I'm pretty sure the brakes are otherwise all original (2nd owner). Not feeling it in the pedal but starting to get a steering wheel vibration when I touch the brakes above 60mph and I figure they will be getting due sooner than later- though I still have not pulled the rears down to check them.
Whats the consensus on replacement brake parts? Is OEM the way to go? I figure any decent ceramic pad set should be fine but what about rotors, OEM, raybestos, wearever, etc? I know everybody wants USA made but realistically price is a major factor. I can get Raybestos advanced rotors and pro pads shipped from rockauto for slightly more than wearever pads and rotors from advanced- is it worth it? Or are the OEM rotors notably more durable?
Keep in mind this truck sees light to empty loading 99.5% of the time and the stock front rotors needed turned at 42,000 and are starting to show signs again at under 60,000.
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I've noticed an intermittent clunk which occurs when engaging the hydraulics brakes during reverse maneuvers. It happens with anything from very light to very heavy brake force and typically will happen before driving very far (backing out of driveway, out of parking spot, etc) but does not happen after driving (backing INTO driveway or parking spot). This has been occurring for a while now with no other symptoms (other than some shudder during take off which I attribute to a sloppy transmission bushing).
Front brakes were in great shape when I r&r them a while back to turn the rotors, didn't pull the rears apart but they look good, and I don't have any brake vibrations or issues when moving forward. I can't rule out a driveline clunk or suspension clunk either but the u-joints don't have any slop in them and no squirrely handling issues either.
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From everything I have read I can't seem to figure out exactly what the fix is for what feels like brakes sticking after coming to a full stop, then accelerating? I will describe as a clunking and kicking feel, as if power to the rear end is being delayed then kicking in.
From all the posts and replies it seems like a differential issue. Exactly what the issue is and the correct fix? 2012 purchased used with less than 5K miles in 2013, problem has slowly been getting worse over time.
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I have a 2012 F-150 4x4 super crew all factory with 54,000 mi. I've noticed a new noise/hum at slower speeds, more frequent now. The noise doesn't sound like its from the front or back specifically. I pulled the front wheels this evening and the front rotors seem pretty tight, how easily should they turn with vehicle off for about 30 min? I started it and pushed and released the brake and quickly tried to turn them, very tight, after a minute or two they relaxed a little, another 5 min they seemed tighter? I sharpie mark on both inside and outside of the rotor and turned it past the pads and they are both squeezing equally ruling out binding of the slider bolts.
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2010 F150 for the past 15,000 miles I have been experiencing a nasty repetitive surge when moving slowly forward with the brakes on, as you would do going through a drive through. The truck shakes when this happens and is very noticeable. Ford reprogrammed the transmission module, and now the surge happens twice as fast. What was the remedy? This is my first Ford after only GM products for the past 30 years.......and I hope they can find a resolution soon.
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My 2013 Lariat has just over 7,000 miles on it now. If you brake lightly at 55-60 you get a brake shutter, enough to feel it in the seat but also can see the steering wheel shake too. if you brake a little harder you don't feel the shudder much. is it possible to warp rotors in 7000 miles? 3500 of that 7000 was put on driving to Texas and back.
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Dash lights that stay on? I know of 2 trucks that dash lights stay on all the time. Dome lights are not on so it should be the doors causing it.
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On my 2011 F-150 XL, regular cab long bed with 3.7L V6, each time I open either door, the front park and side marker lights, the taillights, the license plate lights, and the bed illumination lights ALL come on (12 in all), day or night. They do turn off after about 25 sec, but how to keep them from coming on???
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