Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: New Brake Pads Not Lining Up Right
Dec 22, 2014
I put on new Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors with Hawk ceramic pads. I did the brake in runs and could feel the stopping power improving. When I got back to the house I looked at the rotors and I noticed that on the driver's side the pads are not parallel to the rotor. They are hitting on the outer edge of the outboard side and the inner edge (closest to the hub) on the inboard side. Took it all back apart and I can't see and reason for this. Double checked all the mating surfaces and didn't see any problems. I torqued the caliper brackets to 150 ftlbs and the lug nuts also to 150 ftlbs. Is it a problem the caliper sliders?
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Just wondering if this would hurt anything or if it's a splash guard of sorts. There's been previous posts about the alternators being mounted too low on these trucks and getting water damaged over short periods of time.
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I noticed the front brake pads were touching the rotors when I was painting the brake calipers. I had my e-brake engaged and in park. I'm assuming the e-brake only brakes the rear wheels because the front rotors were still movable. Although the car still rides fine but I'm not sure if this is normal.
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I've got a 2011 XLT. The front rotors have been turned twice already in 39k miles. Once at 12k and again around 24k covered under warranty. It starting having vibrations on the highway and shuddering when braking again around 36k. Tired of dealing with the OEM rotors and told it would no longer be covered under warranty I went to Autozone and got duralast rotors and pads for the front.
Swapped them out Friday
- took caliper off
- removed pads
- took caliper bracket off
- swapped rotor
- opened bleed valve to push back piston(used a vise/c clamp combo)
- closed valve with piston under pressure
- put in new pads
- placed caliper bracket back on
I did not remove the pins, they seemed to slide fine and the remaining hardware still looks fairly new.
Took it out all was good, bedded the brakes a bit and called it a night. Come out this morning and start to head out and it's shaking like crazy now once above 40 mph. Made it back this afternoon and took the passenger side off and its not making full contact with the rotors. I've read this can be common until the pads are broken in. Driver side appears fine, pads appear to be bedding fine and nothing looks out of the ordinary, I took the caliper back off but had to open the bleed valve to get it loose enough to let go of the pads.
I've even taken the passenger side back off and reset the piston again just to make sure.
Put everything back together and take it for a spin. Truck seems worse now even at slow speeds 25-50mph. Once the brakes start getting hot from stopping the shaking goes away. When the brakes start cooling back down it comes right back.
Going to swap back the OEM rotors and retest in the morning. Will take the new ones back If that puts it back to normal I may just replace with OEM ones then. The brakes work perfect it's just the shaking that I can't seem to figure out.
Anything to check? It seems like the new rotors are warped
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We had approximately 7000 miles on our 2014 250 when we first heard our squeaking when we applied the brakes. This happened after we had been driving a while. Took it to the dealer to see what was causing the noise. They found out it was the front brakes. They removed both front wheels to find the inner pads wearing at an angle and the caliper piston boots partly melted in middle. They ended up replacing the brake pads and calipers with new and machined rotors.
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So my brakes have been squeaking for the past week. Brought it in to the dealership. They said i need new front brake pads. I only have 22k miles on my 3is and that seems like a really look mileage for the breaks to be worn off. I dont track ny car and i pretty much drive slow. How long are your brake pads lasting? Is this normal for the 3is pads to wear off this fast?
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What is the proper procedure in changing the brake pads without unbolting the caliper?
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Second time my Tiggy is going back - first time I was told to speed up to 50 or 60 MPH and slam on the brakes and that appeared to work for a while, but now, I feel like the neighbors are going to file a noise complaint on my brakes!
There was mention of a TSB - just wanting to see how to be able to get that number and if there was any other solution, minus the replacement of pads as they have plenty of meat on them still.
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i have a 2010 Corolla XRS and was wondering the following:
-How good are ceramic brake pads?
-Do they last longer than normal OEM pads?....under normal driving.
I was considering buying a complete set of drilled rotors and ceramic pads for my car.
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I changed out the brake pads, now it is making a hissing noise. I bled all the brakes starting from the back. Here is the video : [URL] .....
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I just purchased a 2011 F-150 XTR and i noticed the pedals very close to me and i know it does not have electric positioning and it appears that looking at it, it can be adjusted manually..
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Have an issue with their third brake light leaking. The shop priced 275ish to replace/fix leak. I figured a 5 dollar tube of clear OSI would do stop the leak just as well. Any reason why I shouldn't just seal the brake light instead of replace.
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I washed my truck for the first time tonight, and while doing so, I noticed what looks like water got into the third brake light on top of the cab. Is that a common issue and is there an easy fix? I've seen foam inside at the very bottom of the light fixture, it kind of looks like there are two housings though, with the foam in between. I checked the inside headliner, and everything there is dry.
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I have a '09 Ford F-150 Lariat, 5.4 with a lighting difficulty. Previous had it in for service for exterior lighting that was intermittent and uncontrolled. A door module was replaced and reprogramming performed by the dealer. Worked OK for awhile, but today I noticed that brake lights were on while the truck was parked.
Checked all that I could think of then pressed the caution light button, activating the front/rear caution lights. Turned the caution button off. Brake lights went off. About an hour later, noticed the brake lights were on again. Tried different things to deactivate the brake lights, but to no avail - brake lights stayed on. Have disconnected the battery - this is where it sits at the moment.
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Wanting to put the raptor 3rd brake light on my 2011 limited not sure what has to be done or if they make a harness to allow it to work. What did it take to do it ??? I just like the running light it has kinda cool....
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My 2010 screw 5.4 has only 20K on it and last week the low brake fluid light came on. Yes I know I need to do the pads and with the little miles the truck gets I was waiting on slightly milder weather to address this. I added fluid and went on my way. Last night the light comes on again, my guess there is a leak somewhere. BTW truck stops fine. First question; Any recalls on the brake system? I bought the extended warranty so since this probably isn't pad or rotor issue should the dealer fix the problem? I'm in a real bind here as my lady in is rough shape health wise and I need this truck ready to roll at all times.
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I'm looking to upgrade the front brakes on my F150. I'm looking at either EBC or Hawk for pads and rotors. What is everyone's thoughts on these brands?
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I have read and re-read the owners manual fuse section. Can't find what fuse I blew. I do not have trailer brake or turn signal on either side. I do have running lights on the trailer. Which fuse or fuses control the brake and turn signal lights on a 2012 F-150 ecoboost. I had them all a month ago, but bought a new trailer and first time I pulled it the lights went out. Figured I blew a fuse, but can't find the one! No power at the receiver.
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2011 F150 SCREW FX4 6.5' box Ecoboost... All of a sudden I had no power assist for the brakes.
In a "unit down" situation waiting for a replacement vacuum brake pump assembly from Ford? My truck has been stuck at the dealership for going on three weeks now waiting for this part. No one seems to be able to say when the part will be available, which suggests to me that Ford is waiting on the supplier to produce more.
They're paying for a rental, but the 2013 Escape isn't anything near my F-150. A week maybe, I could understand, but on 6/11/2013 it's going to be three full weeks since my truck was towed into the dealership. How many of these things are on the road? How do they not have this part readily available?
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I have a 2013 XLT Scab that has been in twice now for a low speed to stop brake rubbing or grinding noise. The first visit they turned the front rotors and scuffed the pads, which seemed t fix the problem for about a month. The second visit they repeated the same process on the rear and the problem was good for about two months. Today while driving I noticed the noise, probably worse than I have ever heard. It seems like after about 20 stops the noise gets quieter. I am taking it back for the third time and I am hoping they will fix the problem for real this time. I am tired of burning my gas to get to the dealer and then having to ask my salesman for a loaner car. Other than this issue I love the truck.
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So last night on my way home I was stopping at a traffic signal and noticed a grinding noise from the drivers side front wheel. Upon further investigation I noticed a lot of brake dust on my wheel. I took it to the dealer thinking the caliper might be seized up. Well they looked at the caliper and said it was OK but the inside pad was worn to the metal. The other pads still looked good but since they have to replace the rotor they might as well replace all of them. The tech told me that being up north where they use salt corrodes the pads and doesnt allow them to move freely. He also asked me if I drive a lot of highway miles and I said yes, 30 miles a day. I guess from what he said is that the less they get used the more they will corrode up. So premature brake pad wear could be worse.
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