Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: MPG Dragging - Caliper Locking Up - Replace Whole Brake System?
Jan 7, 2013
I was uber excited to buy my first brand new truck in 09..... Amount numerous issues, defective rear window (fought with ford for 3 years never replaced under warranty), sync issues draining my battery, multiple O2 sensors replaced, multiple lights replaced and a blown drive shaft all under warranty. Now my warranty literally just ended, years not miles, just rolled 36k yesterday, ran out 3 years in November 12, now I'm having break issues.
A few weeks ago while driving, I released the gas and truck seem to slow faster than normal. Seemed kind of unusual but also began to noticed a drag on my mpg, about 2-4 mpg difference, depending on highway or in town. Now 3 weeks later, I feel grinding under breaking. Now it's beginning to make sense. I figure probably a stuck caliper. While driving with head out the window , freezing in IL, by the way, seems to be the drivers front. Checked rotors, outsides only as there are the guards preventing me from checking the back side. No visual or touch grooves ground into the rotors from the pads being worn out. Best bet is its the back side of the caliper that is locked.
Question 1, does this make sense, only one side of the caliper locking up? I had a caliper lock on my old GTP but the whole thing locked up.
Question 2, do I just suck it up and replace the breaks my self, gf's dad is a manager at O'rylies so I can get anything I want at cost, or do I go back to the dealer and bitch about mechanical problems being constant with my new now only weeks out of warranty truck? I read some horror stories about clogged lines and numerous other issues causing calipers to lock. I don't feel like replacing my whole break system, lines, calipers and all just to make sure the problem is fixed. At 3 years this seems ludicrous.
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The wife and I ventured out last Friday evening to run a few errands. When we returned to the house and pulled into the garage, we both smelled burning brake pad. I felt the rear wheels, the drivers side was too hot to touch.
Dragging brake caliper. I got online and reserved a drivers side caliper and a set of pads at NAPA. Saturday morning I removed the caliper. Much to my surprise, one of the caliper pistons was broken into multiple pieces.
I took the offending caliper to NAPA and picked up the new caliper and a set of pads.
Side note - NAPA seems to think the 2007 trucks have calipers that mount in front of the axle, not behind the axle. They will try to sell you a passenger side caliper and tell you it is a driver side caliper. It will bolt up fine, but the bleeder valve will be at the bottom of the caliper instead of the top. You'll never get the air out of the caliper.
Got back home, bolted up the new caliper and pads, then bled the system. All worked well.
I decided to throw new pads on the passenger side brakes as well, since I had 2 remaining. I took off the passenger side caliper, much to my surprise I found a cracked and broken piston on that side also! Another run to NAPA to pick up another caliper. Installed, bled the system again, all working well.
Now, I have never seen a cracked and broken caliper piston like this, let alone one on each side of the rear axle. What might have caused this? About a year ago I had a shop install new backing plates. The pads and calipers are about 3 years old, same shop installed those.
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My buddy has been having a strange problem with his 275,000 mile 2003 F150 2wd. The right side caliper will lock up out of the blue and will not release for anything. We put 3 news calipers on it within a 4 week period thinking that we had a defective one but no change. I am thinking either a bad brake line or, more likely, the front abs block...
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I have a 2011 F-150 Supercab 4x4 and the brake warning system is starting to drive me nuts. A couple of months ago the warning light came on along with a message to check brake system. I didn't find anything wrong, even flushed the hydraulic system. all seemed OK. Now the warning came back on, the message center will reset and the warning light will reset after shutting off the truck.
I can drive in city/town and the warning does not come on. But if I drive open road for about 30 miles with out using the brakes I get the warning again. I'll reset the message center and it'll clear, then about every 10 miles it chimes and shows to check brake system. It is strange that that I can drive hundred of miles in town using the brakes and not warning but get on the open road and not using the brakes I get the warning after 30 miles.
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The last two days after driving home i noticed a smell upon exiting the truck. today i figured out what it was, the left front wheel was smoking. i.e. i believe the brake is dragging. the weird thing is going to work no issue, coming home issue. big difference is yesterday coming home was about 90, today 95. in the morning yesterday it was 60 today 74.
Is it possible the hot temp is causing some kind of an issue? it just started getting hot here and this had never happened before.
Truck is an 05 4X4 Lariat SuperCab with 70K. did brakes ( rotors with angled coolng fins up front ) and pads at around 40K. i just rotated teh tires about 1500 mile ago and there was plenty of pad, inner and outer.
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2012 F150, 5.0
Quiet at idle, makes a crinkly, scratching noise under load, becomes almost a rattle or sounds like something is dragging (there isn't anything dragging). I can rev the engine in P and do not get the noise, only when in gear and moving. Quiet when cruising, noise comes on when accelerating. Did not notice the last time I drove it, it sat for a couple of days, then noticed it the next time I drove (yesterday). Took it around the block this morning to see if it was still making the noise, it is.
Obviously, it needs to go to the dealer, but want some info if it's harmful to drive it there, or if I should have it towed.
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2013 Platinum. See sig for details. 37,000 miles. 1 owner. Truck has been basically parked since June. However I take it out for a quick spin every 3 week for 10 miles or so. Currently has storage insurance on it.
When backing out of the garage the brakes are grinding and squealing bad. Also getting feedback through the steering wheel for the first couple miles which leads me to believe it's one or both the front brakes.
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I have a 2012 F-150 4x4 super crew all factory with 54,000 mi. I've noticed a new noise/hum at slower speeds, more frequent now. The noise doesn't sound like its from the front or back specifically. I pulled the front wheels this evening and the front rotors seem pretty tight, how easily should they turn with vehicle off for about 30 min? I started it and pushed and released the brake and quickly tried to turn them, very tight, after a minute or two they relaxed a little, another 5 min they seemed tighter? I sharpie mark on both inside and outside of the rotor and turned it past the pads and they are both squeezing equally ruling out binding of the slider bolts.
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I recently replaced my pads and rotors. The driver side was no problem, but on the passenger side, when I was finished, the caliper was rubbing up against the rim of the tire. I took both tires off to compare the differences, I noticed that my passenger side caliper is not going down as deep on the pads as the driver side. The caliper on the passenger side depressed with no problems and had no problems fitting over the pads. Whats really confusing is that all of my bolt holes line up.
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Bought a high mileage 99 f150 4x4 yesterday. In the process of cleaning her up, the water hose hit the disc brakes on the drivers side and it was hotter than a BBQ grill! Ok, immediately I thought this isn't good. Jacked her up and pulled the caliper. Pads were almost gone so replaced them with a new set, went for a drive. Now the damn things were smoking so bad I thought they were gonna catch fire! Sticky caliper , right? Stopped and got one then realized that the passenger side started doing it too.
Another trip for the other caliper and new pads because these were toast. I mean just burnt to hell. Before I started working on the truck again, I checked on here and I'll be darned if I didn't find out that the old brake hoses might be acting like a check valve because of rust and deterioration. Got a set of brakes hoses too. Put everything on this morning and works like a charm.
1999 4.6 XL
Passenger side done
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2009 F-150 FX4 5.8 .... Had a couple days of 20's temps, started truck last night and I have the brakes symbol and ABS light staying on, with the message "Check brake system" and the traction control symbol alternating back and forth. On a 16 mile trip, they all went out just once, for about ten seconds when I restarted at the gas station. Then came back on. Brake job done within the last two years by previous owner at the dealership.
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I've searched, but nothing came up. I want to remove the brake calipers (unbolt from the rotors) for cleaning and painting. I need confirmation that the fronts are just two 17mm bolts on the back of the caliper that is holding it? I tried earlier but it was right after a drive so car was hot and the bolts seemed like they were secured on tightly. I will try again this weekend. Btw. I have a 350 f sport
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What is the proper procedure in changing the brake pads without unbolting the caliper?
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Just a quick question about the locking differential. I'm just wondering can you activate the locking diff while turning or on the gas pedal? Because today when I was climbing up an icy hill, I thought I'd turn on the locking diff,I was still on the gas when I pulled the switch. For a second I saw a warning on my dashboard, but quickly went away before I had a chance to read it. Just wondering in what conditions you can lock the diff. I also hear that you couldn't activate it while turning at a certain degree?
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my high beam switch works if I hold the switch in the forward position, but it won't stay on when I let go. Is there a fix without having to replace the switch?
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While I was test driving 2012's I noticed that the e-lock for the axle was on the same as the 2wd/4wd. I asked the sales-kid if it was in 4wd or 2wd when the rear axle was locked and he couldn't tell me. I figure its in 4wd, but its on the 2wd side of the
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So, my right, rear, brake caliper froze in the open position a little while back; I hit the brake hard, it held, heard a clack, then it let go and stayed in the open (uncompressed) position. I lost some braking power but at least have been able to drive. No visible brake fluid leak, other three brakes working fine.
At 125K, I've decided to do a full brake job, and am about to search for some of the parts on the awesome stickied parts reference list up above. I'll hopefully find some parts are available at NAPA, where I'm also ordering the right side cv axle.
So, I'm only finding remanufactured brake calipers at NAPA. Are they decent or should I look for something new elsewhere?
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I have a 2011 f150 with the 5.0l motor. I had to replace the head gaskets and I am putting it back together and I am wondering if I will need a special tool to align the cam gears/camshaft/timing chain. to get this back together. I can't seem to find a thread or an article to guide me through the process.
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My wife backed the truck into a pole and bent the driver's side bumper and one of the ears on the trailer hitch (the part that bolts to the frame). I bought all the parts that need to be replaced (the left bumper end, the hitch itself, and the plastic bumper cover), gut am hesitant to try to change it all myself. How hard is it to change out all these parts? Is there a write-up any where out there for this?
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I though I would like the tailgate step and assist handle. They are always in the way and I want to get rid of the handle but keep the step if possible. Can I remove the plastic tailgate cover, pull the hande and re-install a metal tailgate cover.
If not, want to swap a tailgate. Its red, has the back-up camera and, no dealer markings and in excellent condition.
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I have a 2013 Ford F150 XLT Supercrew with the 'jump' seat in the middle. When I fold down the center seat, I hit my elbow while driving and turning.
I'm contemplating removing the center jump seat and replacing it with a Ford center console. Is it just a matter of removing the center jump seat bolts, then bolt in the new center console?
I see on the Ford parts website a adobe center console : 2013 Ford F-150 Floor Console | FordParts.com
Of course, then what do I do with a center jump seat?
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