Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Lost Takeoff And Passing Power?
Oct 15, 2015
I have 163,000 + on my 2009 fx4. Recently I have lost my take off power and passing power. I have the manifold leak but the dealership says that's not the problem. Took it in twice to the dealership and once to an independent and nobody knows what's wrong. No codes are showing. Had a dealership tune-up at about 120,000 miles. Need some starting points cause it's very annoying and unsafe. I tow alot and the "get up and go" is gone.
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I have a 2005 F150 5.4 L 4 speed Tran. and a identical 2010 F150 5.4L but with a 5 speed Tran. that I just bought. it seems to have no passing power. I reset the PCM driver adaptive memory and the truck does not seem to have any pick up as compared to my 2005. Could it be the throttle body position sensor or something else.
2005 has over 200k
2010 has 80k
both are extended cab 4X4
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I've got a 12 FX4 SC 6.5' w/Ecoboost. After 1K miles I began to develop a shudder/shake in the tranny-driveshaft passing through 1500 rpm. 4 dealers, 6 overnights and 2 escalations, I finally am told there is a design problem in the pre Jan 12 trucks. Fixed with frame mod to manufacturing process after Jan, but no solution for current owners with the problem. I replaced my 07 FX4 SC with this truck and loved it for the first 1K miles. Now I hate driving it, especially in traffic (lots of cycles through 1500 rpm).
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Just a note to mention that last Friday my fiance was driving her'13 F150 with Ecoboost (73,000 mi) and heard a "loud" pop when accelerating then engine lost power. She called me so I had her restart it and all seemed fine- but drove 1/2 mile and same thing. Called Ford roadside service- got a tow within 30 min to dealer down road.
Turns out they had to replace the throttle body. Fortunately I have the Ford Extended Warranty thru 125,000. This was the second significant failure for the truck- first was a leaking A/C Evaporator which required pulling the entire dash. I won't keep this truck beyond the extended warranty.
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I have a 2011 f150 eco, i was having trouble with the turbos building boost and dumping to early, kept surging. I took it to my dealer so they ordered the deflector plate and intercooler, i took it in on weds and just picked it up today after they installed those parts and reprogrammed the computer with the latest calibration, this truck runs like a dog now, seems like it lost all the power it used to have? I called my dealer and am taking it back Monday for them to look at it again!
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Just hasn't been my luck lately guys. Last night was around 4 F out, taking a left at an intersection and lost power. Though it might be the TC kicking in as it was a bit icy out, but no indication of that on the dash. Then the "service engine" wrench showed up for a second on the display.
This was followed by the airbag light turning on, and the truck going into some kind of limp mode. The speedo indicated "0 MPH" though I was running about 2k RPMs in 5th.
My display showed this:
I couldn't force a downshift with the throttle, or get one from manual mode. I slowed down and pulled over at a safe place, shut the truck off and restarted. Hasn't happened since then.
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Been suffering some take off shudder as well as the 55mph shudder and finally took the truck into the dealer who informed me it is throwing a couple of misfire codes (no CEL). Quoted for spark plugs. Looking around the boards, seems a lot of people are seeing premature wear on the ecoboost plugs and have had success regapping or replacing. Any words from 5.0L owners? What are the odds they just need regapped? I'll probably just replace them anyway, but its a good discussion. Also are they are simple to replace as it looks- just pop the coil packs off and they are there in the valve covers?
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I have a 2009 f 150 two wheel drive and after reading and doing a little research I found my problem. Slip yoke same as alot of guys here,come to a stop clunk,take off clunk. My question is my warranty ran out,I had a 30,000 or three year and now I have 31,000 plus it's like the truck new when the warranty ran out. There is a TSB on it,10-22-6 NOV 10 Drivetrain - Driveshaft Slip/Bump On Accel. Or Braking... Will they do any thing for me,and how much would it cost me to have the work done at a shop.
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I have a 2009 f 150 two wheel drive and after reading and doing a little research I found my problem. Slip yoke same as a lot of guys here, come to a stop clunk, take off clunk. There is a TSB on it 10-22-6 NOV 10 Drivetrain - Driveshaft Slip/Bump On Accel. I am going to pull the rear driveshaft and put in new grease MERCURY MARINE GREASE with TEFLON (2-4-c ) part nbr 92-802863A . How much do I need, will 8 ounces be enough.
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My 2012 F150 has developed an odd issue.... It doesn't seem to want to always take off in first gear. I've had it happen several times where the truck would take off in a high gear but yesterday was the worst yet....I was towing my boat and the truck attempted to take off in 5th gear....I threw it in neutral and back in drive and it was fine, what's causing it.
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I have a 2012 4x4 f150 163" wheelbase 8' bed that vibrates/shutter when you take off you fell it more when you are on an incline and a WHOLE lot more when you have a load on the truck (trailer/load of fire wood).
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2010 F150 XLT FX4 5.4L Crew Cab Medium box, nice blue truck, lacking on chrome though.
My friend has a clunk/lag on take off from a dead stop only. Drives fine down the road, but when taking off from a complete stop, you step on the gas, and nothing happens for a second, feels like it lags, then clunks, gives a jerk, and takes off.
From talking to other newer Ford owners, seems like a common problem.
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I've been wondering why my 5.4L sounds so grumpy at take off and then so quiet at speed.
I'm assuming this ain't factory? Looks like a flowmaster but can't find any markings on it.
I want to get dual exhaust (yes I like the look) but can't figure if I want Magnaflow or Flowmaster.
What I'm looking for is performance (is there even such a thing--rhetorical) and pure-wood-developing raw rumbling noise! Not the kind of noise but the kind that if you want to pop the throttle a bit you let the awesome guy next to you know that this truck ain't no slum.
I'm trying to figure out tips and placement-- I'm thinking straight back is the best bet?
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I am changing the front and rear axle fluids on my '10 f150.The rear was no problem,the front is my issue.I took all the bolts off and loosened the cover to drain the fluid but it is a tight space and cannot take it off completely to clean it up and put on the gasket sealer.
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Well it's been 300 miles since Ford applied their "special grease" and put on clamps to eliminate the clunk when slowing and the slipping feeling at take off. Now the clunk is back. Every time at 25 it downshifts and clunks, then once again at 10. Drives me nuts. My service advisor wants me to "log" these visits so we can be more aggressive with Ford to get this resolved. I love the truck, but this is annoying driveline slop. Almost like the splines weren't cut right and Ford is using heavy grease to fill the gaps......developing...
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I replaced a water pump on a customers 2013 5.0L truck this week. The bearing was totally shot and lost all the coolant. Truck only had 46000 miles on it, is this common?
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Cooler weather has arrived and my 2000 f250 won't start. Wait to start light is coming on, no power passing through the two relays on top of the engine. Are both of these for glowplugs? My 97 only had one. How do I diagnose relays on this truck? If you cross out the two relays truck fires right off so I know the glowplugs themselves are good.
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Bought the ISF about 6 months ago. I knew the previous owner who didn't abuse it. Was driving in 95 degree weather. All of the sudden it seems like the car lost half of its power. It still goes but doesn't pull like it use to. I checked for engine codes (none). Disconnected the battery for 5 minutes (no change) It seems like the throttle doesn't open into the secondary switch on the floor. Its just an even gradual response versus the kick once you get on it.
Also its a 2008 model
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2014 Subaru Crosstrek lost power on the highway. Dealership unable to provide definitive reason. Car key code error is what the computer came up with. Do not feel confident driving my new car any longer. Is it possible a second key inside the car could interfere?
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Looking at an EGR delete in the very near future. Any problems passing emissions with a full delete?
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We have a 14' Santa Fe 2.0 Turbo that has lost power several times upon coming to a stop. The vehicle will lose the "D" in the gear selector window in the cluster, a yellow triangle light will come on, and we lose all gear selector lights on the shifter in the center console. The vehicle will stop fine but upon throttle, power is extremely sluggish and then braking is limited as well. The car will limp in this mode until we stop the vehicle and reset with an ignition cycle. We might go a month in between occurrence. Looking for similar incidents and fixes if any. Vehicle off to dealer this week. Hopefully it has a hard code stored.
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