Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Locking Differential While Turning Or On The Gas Pedal?
Jan 21, 2013
Just a quick question about the locking differential. I'm just wondering can you activate the locking diff while turning or on the gas pedal? Because today when I was climbing up an icy hill, I thought I'd turn on the locking diff,I was still on the gas when I pulled the switch. For a second I saw a warning on my dashboard, but quickly went away before I had a chance to read it. Just wondering in what conditions you can lock the diff. I also hear that you couldn't activate it while turning at a certain degree?
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Had the diff checked today.fluid was grey in color,looked like it might have a little water in it. 2010 limited slip. wasn't over full. 10000 miles.
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Changing the front diff fluid on truck. I was looking at mine today and it looks like the top bolts will be difficult to reach.
I also tried to suck the fluid out of the fill hole but couldn't really fit a tube into the differential.
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I have a 2009 f150 platinum and have been told both sides of the story now... that the front differential is sealed and need not be changed, and also that it is unsealed and can be changed. While asking this question I might as well lump in the rear differential as well. Are they both sealed or unsealed and need to be changed???
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I am changing the front and rear axle fluids on my '10 f150.The rear was no problem,the front is my issue.I took all the bolts off and loosened the cover to drain the fluid but it is a tight space and cannot take it off completely to clean it up and put on the gasket sealer.
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New issue this week - truck developed a leak from the pinion seal. I'm not sure how much has leaked out, so I would like to top it off before limping to the dealership.
From the manual: "Motorcraft SAE 75W-140 Rear Synthetic Axle Lubricant" There is also a footnote for friction modifier required for a Trans-Loc rear diff. Assuming that footnote refers to an LSD and NOT the E-Locker, should be able to top off with just the fluid, correct?
I am a die hard for Truck fan but am really disappointed with the overall quality of the truck. I bought it new and now with 30k, I've had it in twice to have rotors turned, once for transmission getting stuck in 5th and needed a new molded leadframe assembly, and now the pinion leak. All fixed under warranty, however really unacceptable for a truck with this low of miles and an easy life.
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my high beam switch works if I hold the switch in the forward position, but it won't stay on when I let go. Is there a fix without having to replace the switch?
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While I was test driving 2012's I noticed that the e-lock for the axle was on the same as the 2wd/4wd. I asked the sales-kid if it was in 4wd or 2wd when the rear axle was locked and he couldn't tell me. I figure its in 4wd, but its on the 2wd side of the
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I was uber excited to buy my first brand new truck in 09..... Amount numerous issues, defective rear window (fought with ford for 3 years never replaced under warranty), sync issues draining my battery, multiple O2 sensors replaced, multiple lights replaced and a blown drive shaft all under warranty. Now my warranty literally just ended, years not miles, just rolled 36k yesterday, ran out 3 years in November 12, now I'm having break issues.
A few weeks ago while driving, I released the gas and truck seem to slow faster than normal. Seemed kind of unusual but also began to noticed a drag on my mpg, about 2-4 mpg difference, depending on highway or in town. Now 3 weeks later, I feel grinding under breaking. Now it's beginning to make sense. I figure probably a stuck caliper. While driving with head out the window , freezing in IL, by the way, seems to be the drivers front. Checked rotors, outsides only as there are the guards preventing me from checking the back side. No visual or touch grooves ground into the rotors from the pads being worn out. Best bet is its the back side of the caliper that is locked.
Question 1, does this make sense, only one side of the caliper locking up? I had a caliper lock on my old GTP but the whole thing locked up.
Question 2, do I just suck it up and replace the breaks my self, gf's dad is a manager at O'rylies so I can get anything I want at cost, or do I go back to the dealer and bitch about mechanical problems being constant with my new now only weeks out of warranty truck? I read some horror stories about clogged lines and numerous other issues causing calipers to lock. I don't feel like replacing my whole break system, lines, calipers and all just to make sure the problem is fixed. At 3 years this seems ludicrous.
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Every once in a while, I'll feel a vibration in the gas pedal. It happens under acceleration, and typically if I'm pushing down and it has not downshifted yet. Then once it downshifts the vibration is less noticeable.
I know there have been issues with the Electronic Throttle Control on these drive-by-wire trucks, particularly on the Super Duty trucks.
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I just purchased a 2011 F-150 XTR and i noticed the pedals very close to me and i know it does not have electric positioning and it appears that looking at it, it can be adjusted manually..
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This is not my truck, it's my aunt's and she told me today that when she makes a right turn her steering locks up and she has to jerk it to the left, she plans on taking it in to the dealer to be fixed. Truck has 10k miles, 4.6L 2v, 4x4
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I recently had a leveling kit installed on my 2014 f150 super crew 4wd. When I picked it up, I heard a humming in the front end that ended up being a bad iwe actuator. I took it to the ford dealer and they replaced it. No more humming, but now I have a very annoying vibration in my gas pedal that can also be felt in the floor board and gas pedal. I've had it aligned. I thought it might be my front driveshaft so I put it in neutral while driving and vibration is the same. It gets worse when I get up around 70mph. I also feel small jerks in the gas pedal at these speeds along with the vibration. It vibrates worse under heavy acceleration as well. Cause I can't wait to set my cruise every time I drive it bothers me that much. Only has 10,000 miles on it.
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When making turns and occasionally during slowing and accelerating, a klunk or pop sound comes from the front of the vehicle. It is a F-150 STX 2011 2WD shortbed with 16,000 miles. Engine is 5.0 with 6 speed auto. Previos owner had (before returning to stock) put a lowering kit in, headers back exhaust, intake, tuner, etc. Truck is butchered a bit from pos previous owner. Front end components have all been checked, bolts torqued. Even the cab mounts have been checked. The only thing that can be seen that might contribute is the cat crossover supports have been hacked off.
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So one of two things is happening:
1. I'm paranoid because I just bought my 2011 3.5 Eco 4x4 a month ago and every little thing I hear go bump I stress over...
Or...
2. I've got a control arm/U-joint issue.
When I make turns beyond say 20 degree wheel turn (so almost 90% of turning distances) I hear a groaning type sound coming from the truck. Sounds like it's located in the front suspension area. Sounds like the sound is following the rotation of the wheels though if you can visualize what I mean.
I've had new tires put on since I bought it Oct. 5th but just noticed the noise about a week or two ago. No other work done since purchasing.
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I own a 2010 ford f150 that make a grumbling sound when i turn. the dealeship has replaced the clutches for the limited slip rear end 2 times now and it is happening again. they told me that the ford engineers are working on the problem but they do not have a fix for it yet. So they told me to just drive it with the positive traction engaged until they get a fix for it. Not exactly the answer I was looking for.
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Is there a way to turn all interior lights on the dash off when the headlights are off?
It is so bright that you can't see in the dark with everything off without being blinded.
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2009 FX4... Every once in a while, I'll feel a vibration in the gas pedal. It happens under acceleration, and typically if I'm pushing down and it has not downshifted yet. Then once it downshifts the vibration is less noticeable.
I have had the mechtronic unit replaced due to harsh shifting and the vibration was there before and after that was replaced. The drive shaft was also replaced due to a click/clinking noise and the vibration was there before and after as well. The harsh shifting and clinking noise was fixed with those repairs, but the vibration is still there. I notice it more when I am towing.
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I am on occasion getting a warning on my instrument cluster regarding my locking diff. System Fault!! Workshop!! is displayed. As well the adjustment knob on the center console flashes yellow.
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I've owned this 2012 Lariat 5.0 for about 6 months (has 49,500 miles on it, approx 6000 are mine).
For awhile, I had kinda thought I sensed a slight vibration/grinding when making right-hand turns. But it seems to be getting more noticeable now. It does not happen with every RH turn, but its not all that rare of an occurrence either. (Does NOT happen with LH turns.)
In addition ............ possibly related, sometimes while breaking, I get a somewhat similar grinding sensation, just before coming to a stop. Again, it does not happen every time.
I tend to think both of these could be a brake issue, but wondered if anything in the driveline could be contributing ? (I should note that I'm in 2-High)
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I have a 2011 F-150 4x4 5.0 with about 45k miles. When I drive at slow speeds (ex. 5mph) and turn the wheels left or right there is a rubbing/growling sound coming from sounds like the front end. It does it either in forward or reverse. It's not a squeaking, clicking, or metal on metal sound. It does not do it when the wheels are straight. I rolled underneath and couldn't see anything that stuck out right away. What could be causing this?
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