Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Lights Come On Intermittently / Stayed On For A Minute Then Went Back Off
Aug 2, 2016
My wife came in the house the other day and told me my lights were on. When I went out to see, they were not. I chalked this up to the sun reflecting on the truck. Later I was working in the driveway and saw them come on, they stayed on for a minute then went back off. Strangest thing I have ever seen. The keys were hanging on the hook in the house. I checked the light switch and it was in Auto. I moved the switch to Off. Later that night I saw it happen again. They came on for a second them right back off. This is a 2010 F-150 4x4 Lariat. I have about 120K miles. What might be causing this or steps I can take to narrow the troubleshooting?
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I have a 2010 Ford F-150 4WD 4 Door. The dome light, marker lights and truck bed light will light up intermittently at night. They will stay illuminated any where from 1 minute up to 15 minutes. I thought maybe my TV remote control was activating the remote entry feature on my truck but that is not the case.
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I just bought a 2013 F150 STX with a 5.0. I love the truck, but I can't get the back up lights to work. Checked all the fuses, and changed out a few relays with no luck.
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Today, for the first time the back up lights stayed on when the car was turned off. What causes this? The lights went off when the car was restarted.
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97 Ford F150 4.6 V8 230+ thousand miles. Driving this morning, the ABS light came on and started blinking then the blinking stoped for a minute but the light stayed on. It did this several times untill reaching the destination. The brakes worked properly the whole time. Started the truck after shutting it down and the ABS light stayed on and the shifter would not come out of Park. What could be causing the light to blink and is the shifter not moving related to the light?
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I have an issue that popped up on my 2012 F-150 today. I was driving a bit today and when I returned home and shut the truck off I noticed that the right turn signal indicator stayed faintly illuminated. None of the lights outside are affected, and they all work normally, just that the indicator on the dash is staying lit.
The only thing I can see is that last week I smashed up the drivers side mirror and it busted the lens off of the LED lights in the mirror and 1 LED bulb is exposed. It did rain a bit today but I figured it would short out and blow a fuse if anything.
I will undo the negative battery cable tomorrow and see if it will reset, if not I will have te dealer check it out when I drop it off to have the roof reprinted next week.
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I bought a used 2013 F150 Limited. The truck only had 24,000 miles on it and is still under the 36/36 warranty.
I tried to use the rear defroster and the button never stayed on. As I started to investigate the truck through the owners manual I realized that it was supposed to come with heated mirrors, standard equipment on the limited, and it shows them on the VIN build out. It does not have the heated mirrors installed.
I take it to my local dealer to get the rear defroster fixed and have the mirrors installed and the dealer won't do it. I have to call Ford and open a case. I do this and Ford rejects my claim since I bought it used.
To me this shows a very poor business ethic and is disrespectful to a long time loyal Ford customer. To be honest this has really ticked me off and completely turned me off towards Ford.
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I recently had my tpms light turn on when I started my car in the morning. It blinked for about a minute and then stayed on. After checking my tire pressure and seeing they were all normal, I checked online and found that when the tpms light acts like it is for me, it means there is a malfunction somewhere, so rather than deal with trying to fix it, I went into vagcom to turn it off. I went to the proper byte/box for tpms and unchecked it. But the light is still on...
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So naturally I thought a nail had punctured a tire leading to a slow leak. When I got home I found no nail and the tire pressure on all four tires even but down to about 36psi.
I refilled to my normal of 40/38 and reset the TPMS with the button below the steering wheel. The light stayed on for a minute or two of driving then turned off and stayed off for my commute to work.
What I think probably happened is that I reduced from 42/40 to 40/38 recently without a TPMS reset. Then this morning the temperature outside was 55F and about 65F in my garage. When I left the garage at 5:20AM the TPMS light was off. I drive about 2 mile to the gym each morning and park my C for about an hour. This morning, when I got back in the car the tires had cooled to 55F and I guess that was enough to reduce the pressure far enough to trip my warning light.
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So I took my Elantra through the car wash tonight - came out fine. Went to the grocery store - no problem. Came out of the grocery store are the TMPS light blinked for a minute, and stayed illuminated. I carry a tire pressure gauge so I checked manually- all tested fine. How do I reset?
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I bought a certified 09 F150 Platinum a few months ago and after 4 trips to the dealership service department, I continue to have a problem with an intermittent engine light. The 1st time they replaced the o2 sensor. The second time they said a connection was loose to the sensor and repaired that. The 3rd time they replaced the PCM and catalytic converters. The 4th time, they replaced the o2 sensor again saying it was a new part that had been redesigned. When I stopped for fuel on the way home, the light came on again and has cycled on and off ever since.
When I called after the 4th time, the service guy said Ford engineers said I was getting bad fuel. I buy fuel from many places just like everyone else in Florida. I use 87 octane as recommended in the service manual mostly with 10% or less ethanol. The dealership service dept has said they have been working with Ford engineers directly but can't seem to get it fixed. The truck seems to run and perform fine. The only constant predictable thing about the engine light is that it will always turn off after the truck goes through the carwash!
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Purchased certified pre owned 2009 f150 may/2010 24,000 mile. The check engine light intermittently comes and goes. It seems that its either cold temperature or related to filling the gas tank. The first time it appeared I drove 100 mile then the truck sat over the weekend and went back off when started. The second time had serviced for the check light and the dealer diagnostic pin pointed P0304, P0305, P0300 and P0316 and replaced cyl 4&5 coils.
Prior to the replacement of the coils the truck averaged 18.2 mpg since the repair the mpg dropped to 17.6 and now at 17.2mpg. Had the truck in again and the light was on when I made the appointment but went back off when I went to the dealer. They said the reset the computer. The light twice has since went on and then back off after a couple days. The only observation is that the outside temperature on both occurrences has been below freezing and that I had filled up the tank.
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2010 F150 XLT 4.6 3 V
No leaks
New pads and rotors
Intermittent BRAKE (red) light in dash , no other symptoms
Brakes work fine, mechanic is baffled
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My 2010 f150 with non sync non sony radio w sat cd. Its been losing power this past year. It would just cut out than come back on. The settings would be reset, but not lose station presets. The other day it got stuck on the f150 logo on the display. No radio or other function would work. Pushed power button and nothing. Started an hour later it worked normally. I do have aftermarket amps, but their direct to battery.
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I have a 2010 Ford Raptor and lately I have been hearing some rattles coming from the back seat. I am about 99% sure it's from the rear window... Not positive, but when I listen for the sound that's where it comes from. It's very faint on normal road and rattles after every bump or pothole I hit. I am still under warranty but I don't want to take it to ford unless I have to. I have spent hours on end looking for solutions online but I can't find anything that's my exact problem.
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I recently bought a 09 F150 Screw short box. I just hooked it up to my camper for the first time and was measuring height on the corners of the truck to check my WD hitch. I noticed that the driver's side was higher than the passenger's side in the back of my truck. I checked again without the camper on some level ground and found the same thing - approximately 1 1/4" difference at the wheel wells and about 3/4" at the frame. I can't believe that this would be normal, so trying to figure out what happened here - maybe it got rear-ended?
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I have a 2014 ecoboost F150 xlt. Yesterday while driving the dash display just blinked off then back on. Truck continued working normally while the screen was off. Only happened once but it was fairly worrisome as it was at the start of our 5 hour return drive.
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I have 2010 F150 King Ranch 5.4L. This truck has been giving us problems by just dying. We have haf it towed twice in two days. It does it more often when hooked up to our travel trailer. The day before yesterday we drove it 250 miles w/o the camper with no problems. Once it dies it can take an hoir or so before it starts. I just did a test and had the truck.running for a bit and then plugged the trailer wiring harness (7 pin with brake control) and truck died within a minute. A couple of times it showed that there codes. The codes were P0201 thri P208. Which is open circuit to that specific injector. When the key is turned off the codes go away.
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I have a 2013 5.0 and every time I change the oil filter the oil runs out the front and back of the cross member. That welded on oil catch plate doesn't work. The suspension is stock and I'm wondering if I lift the rear of the truck with a floor jack will it get the oil from the filter all run out the front of that catch plate?
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After a few people telling me that the truck is leaning on the back corner, I checked it today, will check again tomorrow in the street or another parking lot, but here is what I measured at all 4 wheels. The below measurements are all from floor to top of wheel well
These maybe the street causing the difference.
Front Pass = 35 1/4"
Front Driver = 35 1/2"
These are way off, so seems something has happened in this back corner.
Back Pass = 37"
Back Driver = 37 3/4"
Because of the 3/4" difference, what are some things to inspect to see if something is damage to cause such a big difference? Could the shocks be bad already? its a 2011 XLT SCrew with around 76k miles.
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To start out with, Leaky rear window.
It is definitely a leak around my back window, passenger corner. I have personally watched water run in and not run out the back, but in my cab. My Issue is that I cannot find any info as to how to lower my back seats to access the screws required to remove the window.
My truck is a 2011 XLT Supercrew/Cab, whichever is 2 door. Full backrest and 60/40 seat split. below is a picture of my seat and behind the headrests where people say to dig around for a "pin" to pull up and then lower the seat, but it appears I don't have that option.
Back seat
Behind head rest
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