Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Leaking Around Back Window Passenger Corner
Dec 9, 2016
To start out with, Leaky rear window.
It is definitely a leak around my back window, passenger corner. I have personally watched water run in and not run out the back, but in my cab. My Issue is that I cannot find any info as to how to lower my back seats to access the screws required to remove the window.
My truck is a 2011 XLT Supercrew/Cab, whichever is 2 door. Full backrest and 60/40 seat split. below is a picture of my seat and behind the headrests where people say to dig around for a "pin" to pull up and then lower the seat, but it appears I don't have that option.
Back seat
Behind head rest
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My 2014 F150 has been in 5 times now for a leak issue and I'm tired of it. I get a water leak in the passenger rear corner of the headliner that makes a big wet stain in the headliner. It rained all day yesterday and now the drivers side rear is wet. The dealer has resealed the rake light, changed to an "upgraded" gasket, sealed again, sealed the top roof trim, sent the truck out to have the rear window removed and resealed...and its still leaking...if anything worse now.
The gasket Ford uses is clearly not the right answer as it's sub par, and Id rather not use silicon as I've heard it can damage paint and even the metal eventually. Is there a permanent fix for this? I'll do it myself so it just gets fixed right...5 times at the dealer is enough! I'd buy a light like a Recon or something if I knew it would fix this leak issue for good. Wondering what others have done. This is a brand new truck with under 10,000 miles on it and I've been fighting this crap since I had 500 miles on it. It's literally unbelievable!
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I recently purchased a 2009 FX4 Supercrew. So far so good, other than I am just noticing stains on the headliner near the back window. Looking at TSB 12-4-4, it looks like the truck has the leaky third brake light issue - or had it in the past. Of course I am beyond the factory warranty, but I was wondering if there was a way to tell if the previous owner had this resolved? Is it common, even if it was addressed previously, that the seal could go bad on this light again?
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After a few people telling me that the truck is leaning on the back corner, I checked it today, will check again tomorrow in the street or another parking lot, but here is what I measured at all 4 wheels. The below measurements are all from floor to top of wheel well
These maybe the street causing the difference.
Front Pass = 35 1/4"
Front Driver = 35 1/2"
These are way off, so seems something has happened in this back corner.
Back Pass = 37"
Back Driver = 37 3/4"
Because of the 3/4" difference, what are some things to inspect to see if something is damage to cause such a big difference? Could the shocks be bad already? its a 2011 XLT SCrew with around 76k miles.
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I haven't been on in a while due to my laptop breaking on me well recently i purchased the V3 triton switchback from vleds as well as just red V3 triton leds. After the install i blew my flasher fuse which i replaced then when i attempted it again i must have blown something else because my corner lights no longer go on and when i turn my lights on i no longer get the sign on the cluster notifying me that they are on. I have removed the lights and the issue was i did not order ck socket adapter. So what i have done so far is checked all fuses and i have nothing burned under the driver side and under the hood. I must have looked over everything 10 times checked all fuses with a test light and i don't see anything with DRL or Corner lights labeled anywhere on the fuse panels. Is it possible i burned the module DRL module?
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My wife took my '05 Excursion diesel to work today with temps near zero. Got the sticky doors open for her and sprayed the seals with silicone so they won't freeze shut again. I don't think the spray has anything to do with this problem, but thought I'd mention it since I used it this morning.
At lunchtime she got in the truck, started it, and the electric passenger window behind the driver went down by itself and now won't go back up. All the other windows (and door locks) continue to operate properly. Thinking that perhaps some ice/water might be shorting out the circuit, I tried banging on and slamming the door, as well as "futzing" with both switches (drivers door and the switch on the problem door) with no change.
Also, I haven't had the door panels off the X, so if there are any tricks to popping the electric panel out without breaking retaining hardware....
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Rolled all the windows down(for the first time) to play some tunes. All of them went down like they should and all came back up but the back right passenger window. hit the switch...nothing, not even a tick like its trying to do something, it went down fine and dandy but is now totally dead. Figured it was the master switch on drivers door, spent the last two hours taking that apart, got down to the switch connections, cleaned connections and put back together...still nothing. At this point a really need to get it back up somehow(rain moving in), me and my brother tried jumping the connector, made some sparks fly but never got it up. mashing it hard, taking other switches from other doors, have tried all that and it still wont go up..er know.
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I have an 04 lariat extended cab truck with the sliding rear window, but i have a leak somewhere back there. I have noticed that water literally drips right in the top middle of the window, but around the window is dry. Also, the roof interior trim is wet at the corners in the rear closest to the door. i do have a cracked 3rd brake light, is that the reason it is leaking or is there a seal somewhere else outside on top of the truck, maybe around the rear window as a whole?
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My back right passenger window won't go down, it just makes a noise like its trying, you can pull the window down, and then it goes up electrically about half the time, otherwise you have to manually pull it up.
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My 2007 Toyota Solara convertible has been perfect...and now suddenly the convertible back window is leaking. My husband advised me not to drive it today due to the expected rain. OOPS. I went out, and when I made a stop, I looked at the back window and realized the bottom window (glass/plastic?) had completely separated from the fabric top. The top itself is in perfect condition.
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I have about 5,000 on my 2.5 SEL. Back passenger window seems to make that annoying wind/whistle noise if I get above 20 mph. Even on non windy days it seems loud. I will have them look into it at my 10,000 mile check up.
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So for some reason today, my passenger (front) window decided that it doesn't want to stay shut when I auto roll it from both the driver and passenger side switches. It will go all the way up, and then roll back down approximately 2-3 inches like it is doing a pinch protection. If it is rolled all the way up manually it stays up. I have visually checked the track and don't see any obstructions, which I didn't expect to find since it will stay up when done manually. Is there something I'm missing or an easy fix?
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Hard to replicate this, but my passenger-side window "clicks" sometimes when going back up. Not sure if it has to do with humidity or not.
I think this is expensive to repair, so I wanted to get some opinions on this. Right now the car has 27k miles on it (I believe the standard warranty ends at 36, right?). If I only hear the noise a few times a month, should I be overly concerned with this? Is this normal in cars? The speed at which the window goes up is normal and matches the driver side (which does not click).
Every time I get maintenance done (for example, just got the 30k done today), the mechanics always tell me that they can't find it/don't know what I'm talking about.
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I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy. Today I rolled my power front passenger window down and it's still there. Main Control panel on driver side won't roll it back up and passenger switch won't roll it up either. All other windows and locks work fine and I do not hear anything when trying to roll the window up. Does this automatically mean the motor just went out all of a sudden?
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I have a 2010 F150 Lariat Super Crew. The rear sliding window does not completely close. I have read a few posts about lubricating the cable and tapping the window motor. I have leather seats with the rear arm rest, but cannot locate the window motor. I have lubricated the cable, on both sides while someone opened and closed the window.
I have attached a picture. The small metal crimp hits the black plastic stopper and the window is still open a crack. It is as though the window slid open more from its original spot. The small metal crimp hits the black plastic stopper and the window is still open a crack.
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Why in the newer Fords, the power window functionality is reversed compared to the older models (old was push forward to close window, push backward to open). I have an older 2006 truck, and it is the reverse of my 2011, and all of my previous vehicles that had power windows right back to their invention were opposite of my 2011..... Most days I push the switch the wrong way in both vehicles on account of this change. Never remember.
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I have a 03 250 gas 5.4 trying to find out the cooling system problem. I've found what I've read to be common oil leaking from back of passenger head. I had never noticed this before but it started very slight now overflow started bubbling over.
There is no coolant in oil no white smoke. My cooling system leak is just head gasket and gasket change could solve the problem or should I did deeper?
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Subaru Impreza 07. My car is leaking oil it seems to be coming from this part on the back of the engine on the passenger side. It appears to be missing some kind of bolt, but I would like to know what this part is/does before I mess with it.
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Have an issue with their third brake light leaking. The shop priced 275ish to replace/fix leak. I figured a 5 dollar tube of clear OSI would do stop the leak just as well. Any reason why I shouldn't just seal the brake light instead of replace.
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I just installed a wet of weather tech (in channel) window rain deflectors/guards. the rear window deflector came with adhesive strips but not the fronts. Installation instructions say to leave windows up for 48 hours... My question about them is what is actually keeping the front deflectors in and seated? I've used the seating tool but dont understand how they can stay in the channel locked in when there's clearance on them.
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I was changing my oil the other week and when i went to pull the filter I noticed that my tranny pan was wet around the front side, as well as the flywheel insp. plate, and the tranny dipstick tube. It wasn't even enough to drip on my driveway, but wet none the less. after cleaning it up really well and driving it around for 15 minutes it seemed to be coming from the dipstick tube about halfway between where it seats in the tranny and top end of the dipstick.
Removing the tube was easy, just one 10 mm bolt on the back of the engine. After further insp, there was a small piece of insulation on the tube where it passes between the engine and exhaust manifold. when i removed that insulation i noticed there was rust on both the top and bottom of where the insulation sits. i looked it over really well and didnt' see any cracks or holes. I then pluged one end and blew into the other and didnt' notice a loss of pressure or any hissing noise.
I figured if it wasn't leaking and it was already out i might as well clean off the rust and hit it with some paint. I ran a wire brush over the lowest spot of rust and what do you know, 3 tiny little pin holes. I used some 2 part apoxy from work and some aluminum duct tape to repair the hole temporarily until i got the new part in the mail yesterday. total install took around 10 minutes.
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