Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Ignition Stuck On Aux With Key Out?
Nov 26, 2014
Pulled up to customers home and took key out and engine kept running. Disconnected battery and engine and aux power were off. Connected battery and power came on as if the key was in. I tried putting key in ignition and turned with no change in power or engine trying to turn. Disc battery, put key in, connected battery then truck started. Last stop took key out and disc battery engine stayed on. Several prayers and repeated steps above made home.
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My wife and mom went to the dealership today to get remote start installed on their F-150's (bad decision not to do it from the factory). Both trucks had it installed, and it starts the truck fine, but the problem is as soon as they put the key in the ignition to turn it to "Run", the truck shuts off and they have to restart it. The tech says thats "Normal", and it's because of the "My Key" feature.
Neither of the trucks have had any of the keys set up to be "My Keys", all are exactly how they are from the factory. Something doesn't seem right....
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On wife's 2011 ESCAPE, we want to install another "cigarette lighter" type female power port that is live only when the key is on. (to power up the GPS without having to unplug/replug it every time.)
Any best place to tap into an easily accessible wire that is hot only while vehicle is running---maybe off the power window circuit, and what color wire am I looking for & where without too much disassembly?
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Noticed on my wife's 2013 F150 that when you put the key in the ignition without turning it on that the dash lights will flicker on/off and the easy out power seat will move back and forth if you wiggle the key. My SD did the same thing while under warranty and the dealer replaced the ignition switch. How hard of a repair is this to do? It doesn't do this with the key in the acc or run position.
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I just went to try and go pick up some dinner for my wife and I, hopped in the truck, key in the ignition, turn the key, let the computer go through the welcome screen, saw a very brief unknown image then main screen image. Turn over the truck and it just cranks. While cranking, it gives me a tpms failure, a service advance trac an engine overheat(even though it was roughly 24hrs since it last ran), and the wrench, of which those are what I remember but not necessarily in that order. I tried to plug in my dash boss to pull the codes, but no dice. I guess I an just curious what I might be looking at.
Background on the truck: 2012 screw with eco boost, 42,000mi, ford esp, and 99% trouble free.
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I was driving down the highway tonight and slid the sunroof back. When I went to close it I heard a loud click and got concerned. When I touched the butt to slide it again, it didn't move. I tried the other button and it didn't do anything. Just clicked. So, I finished my trip home as it sounded and seemed sealed. When I got home, I tried the buttons again, and only the told function worked, but only to the point of raising it.
Now I can't lower it.
2012 King Ranch completely optioned out. Never had any issues from it until last month when I had the A/C replaced at Ford. They broke my original factory windshield in the process and ended up replacing it, with another original, free of charge. I don't wanna jump to conclusions, but could they have damaged the sunroof intentionally to try to get me back there to recoop their losses?
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What is the testing procedures for the blower motor controller on my 2009 150 Lariat. In the old days it was called the resistor but now it is computer controlled for the dual climate control. My fan is stuck on high, the fan switch does work(the bars on the display change when I push the fan speed button). The climate control works also, just blasts you with air and the temp is changing a lot due to the fact of the fan on High. I am 99% sure it is the blower motor controller, but I would like to test the controller.
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I have a 09 f 150 4wd that i took in for a trans flush, the electrical bulkhead connector on the rear of the trans appeared to be leaking so i got the replacement part and asked the service shop to throw that in if possible. Two valve bodies were partially removed and the said part was still not accessible. i said No!!! put it back together and do the flush! s
So the flush was done (by a ford tech) and now the back up lights, rear parking aid, and rear view camera are all out of commission!
It has been in the shop for 2 days now and the flush was done a second time for whatever reason, now it wont come out of third gear. the shop owner called me to say i bought the wrong filter... I don't have the part number handy but i got it from oreilly. they say it is the filter for the 6r80 trans with the 21 bolt pan. does that sound right?
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I've got a bit of a weird problem with my 2012 F150 XLT Supercab w/ 5.0 and 4x4. My airbag light flashes on once ignition is in the "ON" position then turns off and back on making it code 1-1 I believe but, I cannot for the life of me, find anything about this. Also, for some reason it only happens when it's above 66 degrees outside, the temperature barely gets above that until this time of year and as soon as I take it anywhere they pull it into their shop, which is cooler than outside, and the code disappears. I would like to see if I can solve this first without doing taking it to a dealer and have a huge bill. I checked all of the cables under the seats, the fuses, the battery and the airbag module under the center console and I cannot find anything that seems loose.
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SO I was working on changing my spark plugs on my 66k 10; corolla. I was trying to remove the bolt(holds the cooldown), at first it was hard to wedge it, but slowly I was able to loose it up little by little. ALL the sudden the bolt made a snap noise, half of the bolt(head) came out with the ignition coil, the other half is still stuck in the whole.
I didn't attempt to change the spark plug or work on the other cylinder heads thinking all the bolts may snap off that holds the coil down. I drove my car around and the coil didn't move at all.
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Truck is stuck in Park, cant get it out. Tire Pressure Monitor Failure warning is blinkings as is the low tire pressure light. Emergency Brake light stays on, EM brake is not engaged. No Electrical working, lights, radio, AC.. I don't know what is going on with it...
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I've had an issue twice with the truck stuck in park. Both times I pulled battery cables and it reset itself. This time is different; the truck is stuck in park, the chime doesn't work when you open the door, the screen flashes tire pressure monitor fault and the traction control light blinks on and off. Not only that, the radio does not work, nor does the heat/air. I've got to believe with that many things its the body control module gone bad? Truck is a 2010 crew cab with the 5.4 btw...
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I have a 2011 F150 EB SCREW 4x4. Built in september 2011. The issue seems to have started recently as follows:
1st incident- driving normal, came to stop, accelerate from stop (normally) and the truck was stuck in first gear. Pulled over, shut it off, waited, restarted and seemd ok.
2nd incident (today)- driving normal at around 40mph in 6th gear and all of a sudden the transmission violently jumped to 1st gear for no reason! Then slowly geared back up to 6th again.
Also, I have sometimes noticed that soon after startup, but adequately warmed up, the truck will seem to keep pulling forward at a stop light with the brakes on hard...rpm is at normal idle but it seems like the torque converter will not "let go".
I'm going to be calling the dealer but need feedback, especially regarding any TSB's, SSM's etc for this?
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Just hasn't been my luck lately guys. Last night was around 4 F out, taking a left at an intersection and lost power. Though it might be the TC kicking in as it was a bit icy out, but no indication of that on the dash. Then the "service engine" wrench showed up for a second on the display.
This was followed by the airbag light turning on, and the truck going into some kind of limp mode. The speedo indicated "0 MPH" though I was running about 2k RPMs in 5th.
My display showed this:
I couldn't force a downshift with the throttle, or get one from manual mode. I slowed down and pulled over at a safe place, shut the truck off and restarted. Hasn't happened since then.
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We have a "new" 2010 F150 with factory sunroof & power sliding rear window. Well like the post title says, it'll open but not close.
I took apart the switch & cleaned the contacts - it all looks and fits together as it should. I went ahead and removed the cables controlling the window slider frame to close it. I'm guessing the motor is somewhere behind the back seats?
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I'm having some strange action in the turn where sometimes it "sticks" and also I sometimes get a loud whining sound for 10 seconds or so and I believe it's coming from the power steering but I could be wrong.
I know my ecoboost has an electronic power steering system but that's the extent of my knowledge on it. Does it have a pump anywhere in the system that could be making this whining noise?
124,+++ miles, no real issues, runs like a champ.
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Jumped in the truck this evening to go to the store and when I stared it up the left turn signal was blinking. Lifted the arm as usual to cancel and it does not cancel. Cannot get the left signal off unless I hold the turn signal up for the right signal. The right signal does not activate, but the left does go out as long as I hold the arm up. Let go and the left starts blinking again. Tried driving around to see if it would cancel and no luck. The bulbs are all good. I checked the relays in the fuse panel and they are good. Dang thing just won't shut off. It is a 2011 F150 SCREW Platinum w/5.0.
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The key is stuck. It doesn't turn all the way back to the off position and the steering wheel will not lock. The shifter will still move when I turn the key and press the brakes. The car drives fine. Just can't take the key out of the ignition. This escape has the shifter on the steering column.
Solved: There is a tiny switch (like the one in the pic) that tells the car when the shifter is in the park position. It snaps into position in a little plastic slot. It had popped out of its slot and could not be actuated. It has 3 wires attached to it. I snapped it back into its slot and it works fine now.
Including a pic of it in its proper position. Hard to see it but that's how it looks when it is correct. Pic was taken with my phone stuck down behind it because I could not see it. So this view is as if you were inside the steering column looking back toward the driver seat.
It is located in the steering column near the top. The top cover on the steering column pops off and you can see it without taking the steering column loose, and with some skill and luck it can be snapped back into its slot. Also before inserting the switch, move the shifter down to another position so the little arm will not be in the way.
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None of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
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The truck seems to continue to crank sometimes even after I let the key go. Kinda like it's having a difficult time starting and NEEDS to be cranked a wee bit more and takes over for me. Is this an ignition issue that I can (need) to address or is it normal. I have ZERO experience with a newer vehicle nor a Ford truck.
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My young lad just picked up a 2004 F150 4x4. While fixing it up we have encountered a weird problem. The key goes in , starts and runs the truck but cannot be removed, unless you unhook the battery.
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