Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Ice Forming On Rotors After Parking Outside In The Cold
Dec 15, 2016
I have a 2011 FX4 F-150. My truck is parked in a garage at night, but obviously sits outside during the day while I'm at work. Almost every single day when it gets cold outside (probably 30 degrees or less), I climb into my truck late in the afternoon and the front brakes shutter like there's ice formation on the rotors. You can actually feel (in the pedal) and hear the rotation of that presumptive "ice" turn on the rotor and touch the pads. It usually "burns" off in just a few hundred feet, and the rest of the drive home is perfect.
BUT, sometimes that shutter is so bad that it sets off all the "check brakes", etc. type warnings on the dash. And I usually have to shut the truck off and back on to get those warnings to stop. Again, it's definitely related to the cold and there's something on the rotors or pads up front causing it. It apparently melts off almost immediately, but not before I have to use the brakes a couple of times just to get out of the parking lot, and it NEVER happens in warmer weather. The pads and rotors up front are new with lots of wear life left on them, and they are OEM Motorcraft pads.
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Ever since day 1 when I make a hard stop i had a vibration when braking - heard i need to put bigger rotors on also change calipers - asked FORD about this and they said it would have to be aftermarket rotors and calipers ???
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I've got a 2011 XLT. The front rotors have been turned twice already in 39k miles. Once at 12k and again around 24k covered under warranty. It starting having vibrations on the highway and shuddering when braking again around 36k. Tired of dealing with the OEM rotors and told it would no longer be covered under warranty I went to Autozone and got duralast rotors and pads for the front.
Swapped them out Friday
- took caliper off
- removed pads
- took caliper bracket off
- swapped rotor
- opened bleed valve to push back piston(used a vise/c clamp combo)
- closed valve with piston under pressure
- put in new pads
- placed caliper bracket back on
I did not remove the pins, they seemed to slide fine and the remaining hardware still looks fairly new.
Took it out all was good, bedded the brakes a bit and called it a night. Come out this morning and start to head out and it's shaking like crazy now once above 40 mph. Made it back this afternoon and took the passenger side off and its not making full contact with the rotors. I've read this can be common until the pads are broken in. Driver side appears fine, pads appear to be bedding fine and nothing looks out of the ordinary, I took the caliper back off but had to open the bleed valve to get it loose enough to let go of the pads.
I've even taken the passenger side back off and reset the piston again just to make sure.
Put everything back together and take it for a spin. Truck seems worse now even at slow speeds 25-50mph. Once the brakes start getting hot from stopping the shaking goes away. When the brakes start cooling back down it comes right back.
Going to swap back the OEM rotors and retest in the morning. Will take the new ones back If that puts it back to normal I may just replace with OEM ones then. The brakes work perfect it's just the shaking that I can't seem to figure out.
Anything to check? It seems like the new rotors are warped
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I have a 2014 Supercab Ecoboost F150, which has 37k KM on it (23k miles). I work at sea for 4 weeks on / 4 weeks off so the truck sits a fair bit. I had it in the dealer for scheduled servicing and they noticed the inside pads on both front brakes were wearing significantly more than the outside (4mm vs 7mm). The lube guy at the time had suggested sticking calipers and that they'd be warranty.
A few days later I brought the truck back in to have the brakes looked at and an unrelated warranty item done. They looked and said the calipers aren't sticking and the rotors are grooved and rusted, particularly the inside surface. They wanted to put new pads on and turn the rotors for 400 bucks.
I had a hard time believing it wasn't the calipers, and I was having a hard time getting a good explanation from the service writer of what was going on. So I took the truck back and pulled the pass side tire off in the driveway to take a good look.
As far as I can tell, the calipers are free. The slide pins are nicely lubed and are free, and the pads are free to move in the anti-rattle clips. I squeezed the piston back with a set of C clamps and it seemed to be good. Also, the pads are wearing more or less evenly (not tapered or anything), just the inside is worn significantly more than the outside.
So, rotors wearing out in 23k miles? They aren't really warped, just heavily grooved. My theory at this point is that the weeks the truck spends sitting allows too much corrosion to build up on the rotor, which is getting caught up and wearing down the pads and rotor. Maybe the outside of the rotor isn't nearly as bad because it gets hosed down and washed more frequently?
Inside rotor surface
Outside rotor surface
Inside pad surface.
I still have 7 months of bumper to bumper warranty. Ford says the only cover brakes if the damage is caused by a caliper, so I think I'm out of luck on that front.
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My truck is a 2012 145'' scab Ecoboost. It doesn't have a level or any other suspension mods. I noticed a knocking sound while parallel parking this morning. It occurs while steering quickly turning the wheel 1/4-1/2 a rotation in forward and reverse . It is easily felt through the wheel and it makes a quiet sound. I have a crummy video I will attach below. You can hear the sound when the camera is in the cab. It seems like either balljoints or tie rod ends maybe?. I have an oil change in 1000 miles at my dealer so the timing is pretty good to bring it in.
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2011 F-150, 5.0L, SuperCab. I usually only report odd things about my vehicles only after my wife says something. Didn't think about it really until she complained, keep in mind she drives a Subaru with a "CVT" transmission that doesn't shift.
What I noticed is that when driving at low speeds, say parking lot speeds my F-150 seems to slams into 2nd gear. when it does this it feels like you slightly got shoved in the back. Is this normal, I know it's a truck and there is a lot of rotating mass and torque going on here. My previous truck a 2008 Chevrolet 2500 HD, 6.0L felt similar at low, parking lot speeds, it also had a 6-speed trans like this Ford. Just wondering if this is normal for this beast.
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I have a 2011 Super Crew, 5.0, 4x2. I've been told this hard shift at low RPM and speed like idling through a parking lot is normal? We bought the truck used a few months ago and I've been told this is normal.
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So here it is, who out there with a 2012 SCREW can tell me how their rear parking brake cable is routed around the axle? The reason I ask is mine is routed under the axle and that just seems like a really screwy design. I would think any time the rear suspension was unloaded it could have the potential to engage the parking brake by the axle pushing down on the cable. My father has a 2014 and his isn't routed that way. I've also looked at a lot of pictures on the internet and haven't found any photos that show the cable routed under either. Is something off on mine, or is mine routed correctly and I just have not found any pictures that show it routed the same as mine?
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Our summers typically hover in the 90's and the winters in the 40's. Each year we typically get a good cols snap and it drops in the teens at night and 20's-30's during the day.
Earlier this winter we had a week long episode of colder than normal weather which hung in the low 30's all day and teens at night.
The avg MPG's on my truck for mixed driving dropped from the 18+ that I normally enjoy to around 16.5. When the weather returned to normal for us, my MPG's returned to normal as well.
Have any of you noticed any serious climatic swings in your MPG's?
Yes, I know that vehicles normally burn more fuel in the winter but the info screen on my truck drives that point home.
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What would cause a clicking sound when it is cold outside. When the temperature is -20 Celsius the truck makes a loud clicking sound upon acceleration. When the truck is at idle it goes away. When the truck warms up it goes away. What this might be?
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I have noticed that on my 2012 5.0 Screw that the A/C isn't very cold. It is no where near as cold as my last truck, or any of a number of late model cars I have driven. If it's over 85 and I have it set to auto (70 degrees) it will never get there and just run full tilt the whole day. Even if you select Max A/C and blow it on you you will never have to turn the fan down from being cold as in other cars.
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So after remotely starting my truck on a cold morning, I walk up to the vehicle and notice a small puddle of water near the middle of the truck (not near the engine where the A/C usually drips), and I can also hear a slight ticking noise that I never heard before. I stoop down and can see water dripping from the exhaust (I think off the back of the resonator?). I snap a few pics and decide I'll take a closer look later, but curiously when I return from my drive, the leak and noise are gone.
With 76K miles on the truck, is it possible I've developed a pinhole sized perforation or leak in the factory exhaust system (or maybe there's a loose fitting) that is only present when the engine is cold, but "seals" itself up once the engine is warm and the metal has expanded? I only see the water puddle and hear the noise when remotely starting the truck on cold mornings, never on warm days or after driving around town.
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I have a 2010 F150 with the 4.62v. I bought it new in March '11 and have used either MC 5w20 or Pennzoil 5w20 and MC filters, changing every 5k since new. When cold (30deg F or below) the right side has a loud ticking, until it has run for approx 1 minute. Since it is a 2v, cam phasers should not be a part of the problem. What the issue could be. It has just over 36k now, so the powertrain warranty should still be valid.
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I posted about this back when I bought it back in Feb. and I thought the problem worked itself out but its back. When the temperature drops below 55 degrees or so, coming from the passenger side of the engine there is a chugging or knocking sound, more so when RPMs are high.
I had no issues with it all summer, but now that the temperature is dropping I noticed its back. Is this something I should worry about? What could be causing this? I had the same engine in my 07 and it never did this.
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Still considering the change from my '08 F250 to a newer F150 with the EcoBoost. I have been driving as many of them as I can to get a feel for them. My current question is this: if one exhibits the dreaded rattle at cold startup, does it always get worse with more time/miles? I found another one that I'm pretty happy with overall, but it does have the startup rattle for about a second at cold start, and only at cold start. Is it worth the gamble, or should I keep looking? It's got about 108k miles and is otherwise in fantastic condition...
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2009 F150 STX with 4.6L 3 valve engine. When first started there is a pulsating sucking noise (sounds like a small vacuum pump at where I work) that has started to come from under the hood. Only does this for about 10 seconds or so and then goes away. The colder the engine is when started the worse it is. I have also noticed that about 10 or so seconds after you shut the engine off you can hear a valve of some sort opening up and a rush of air. I think this is coming from the passenger side by the radiator. Where this sucking noise is coming from? And is this valve release at the end normal? The truck has about 48K miles on it so don't know if this would be a warranty thing or not.
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It's a 2011 xlt ecoboost with 14000 miles. Just started getting bad where it literally jars the whole truck. It only does it once. After I'm in 2nd then go back to 1st at a stop, it shifts fine back into 2nd. If I let it warm up for around 10 minutes or so it doesn't happen.
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I have a 2010 F150 and now only cold air comes out of the vents. I have not changed the thermostat since the truck is not running hot. I have read that the blend door may be stuck. Where the blend door is on the 2010.
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I have a 2012 F-150 Platinum 6.2L. Every morning after a cold start, I get this humming sound until the engine heats up. It does seem to get a little quieter when I'm moving but not much. This only happens after the first start of the day and has only started doing this since it's been cold (20-30 F).
YouTube ......
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Experiencing blue smoke shooting out the tail pipe of your newer F150. Mine has been puffing blue since 12,000kms, still doing it at 55,000kms. Been to 2 Ford dealers (6+X) and they can never seem to repeat it. However it has been getting worse. Shop foreman guessed and said its valve seals.
I took a video, which I will post here, contacted Ford customer relations, and they tell me until it smokes at the dealer they cant go ahead with any repairs.I told Ford my truck will sit on the dealer lot until it smokes again and I am not driving it anymore. Photo is worth a thousand words, video is worth none. This is driving me up the wall!!.
2010 F150 5.4L Engine blue smoke - YouTube
Note the blue puff in the video is my truck, taken last Friday, and this is a small amount. Normally it fills my driveway and garage.
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I have a 2012 F150 5.0 I just bought a couple weeks ago. I have a metallic ticking sound when cold, you can hear it when it idles down, but once driven and hot it is more faint but still there. Its not the injectors, Ive checked that.
Ive seen it posted in various forums but no cause mentioned. Ive had it in to the dealership and they are waiting for Ford to get back to them on what to do but I fear they will say its normal. My friends 2013 doesn't do it at all.
Listen to whole video, wait until the camera was placed on tire and its idled down to hear it. Its louder in real life but not extreme loud.
[URL] ....
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