Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: How To Get 7 Away Plug To Power Up Without Trailer Plugged In
Dec 17, 2015
I just bought an electric tongue jack for my utility trailer. Rather than mount a battery on the trailer, I bought a jack that has a 7 way plug, so you just plug into the truck in order to power up the jack. However! My '13 Platinum F150 appears to have a very smart 7 way plug. If I plug in the trailer, everything works fine on the trailer.
If I unplug the trailer and use my tester to check the power inside the 7 way plug on the truck, there is nothing. So when I plug in the jack, which only has 2 tabs on it's 7 way male - positions 4 and 1 (positive and negative since they are red and black) it does not turn on. I wired direct to my battery from the jack 7 way plug and jack works fine.
So I'm guessing that the 7 way plug is not powered up until it senses a trailer is plugged in somehow? Is there a way to override this? Also the 4 flat on the truck was dead when I put the tester to it as well. Maybe same thing? If not, I'll have to hard wire the jack into the trailer wiring harness as a work around I suppose.
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I have a 2011 Ford F-150 XLT. I did take the fuses out of the glovebox and installed them. So trailer lights and blinkers work fine. I just purchased a small teardrop tailer. My problem is that the trailer lights are always on when plugged into the truck.They are on even when lights are off and key is out.
I am assuming that the problem is with the wiring of the trailer harness but I wanted to ask here first in case the problem might be with the truck. I have never had a trailer so I am unsure if the 7 prong plug is always hot. Obviously it is on my truck. Is this way it should be?
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On 2010 150 had running lights for approx 1 year on both 4 wire and 7 wire then none. Nothing changed, Checked fuses, all ok. Checked on back side of plug, nothing. Everything else works.
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I just replaced the glow plugs, gpr, valve cover gasket and harness. When cooled down, cranks but won't fire. Smoke DOES come out the tailpipe. If I plug it in for awhile it fires right up. What else can I do or check?
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My father has a 2009 F-150 with almost 25,000 miles. (he leaves it in garage and polishes it weekly) He just purchased a new dual axle trailer with electric brakes and led lights. When we hook up the trailer and press the Brake, turn signal or hazards, we blow a under hood fuse (48 if I remember correctly). When connected to either of his other 2 trailers, everything works and no issues. When I connect my 2014 suburban, the new trailer works perfectly. He does not have a brake controller installed on the F-150 yet. It does have the 7 pin and 4 pin plugs under the bumper.
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Hooked up to a bumper hitch trailer tonight with my 13 F350 and didn't have any lights but the brakes worked. Tested the bumper hitch trailer connector and there was no power on any terminals, with the tester still connected to the same ground I checked the trailer connection in my bed for my gooseneck trailers and everything was working. Just to check the trailer I hooked up my wife's 2015 F150 and all the lights worked. Can't figure out why my gooseneck connection works but not my bumper connector, also looks like my license plate lights are not working either.
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I have a 2012 Ford 4x4 crew cab 150 xlt. 15,000 miles. When pulling my dump trailer I was stopping to turn and the transmission disengaged. Once I turned the corner coasting the transmission kicked back in again. During this happening pushing the gas did nothing but rev up engine. My dealer said if this happened that a warning light would of came on or a wrench would appear on dash but it didn't. He said then it didn't happen. This happened 3 times in 10 miles of driving. I had it in tow mode.
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Today while towing a 10ft trailer with a golf cart my truck seemed kind of under powered.It has the 5.0 with 3.73 rear end.When I got to where I was going I looked under my truck and there were spots all over the rear end and axle and frame that looked like oil or transmission fluid. I cannot find any noticeable leaks. The air temp today was 100 and the transmission gauge stayed around 200.
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Ok we have a 2012 F-150 and are trying to hook up a 16ft trailer but have no lights. We know the trailer wiring is fine (works on other vehicles) but we have no power at the 4 pin trailer connector. We have checked the fuses and all are fine. Having this problem on a 2012?
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My wife backed the truck into a pole and bent the driver's side bumper and one of the ears on the trailer hitch (the part that bolts to the frame). I bought all the parts that need to be replaced (the left bumper end, the hitch itself, and the plastic bumper cover), gut am hesitant to try to change it all myself. How hard is it to change out all these parts? Is there a write-up any where out there for this?
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I have read and re-read the owners manual fuse section. Can't find what fuse I blew. I do not have trailer brake or turn signal on either side. I do have running lights on the trailer. Which fuse or fuses control the brake and turn signal lights on a 2012 F-150 ecoboost. I had them all a month ago, but bought a new trailer and first time I pulled it the lights went out. Figured I blew a fuse, but can't find the one! No power at the receiver.
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Hooked up to my trailer and I have running lights but no turn signals, brake lights, or trailer brakes. I pulled plugged in my other vehicle to the trailer and everything works fine. My truck is a 2011 with the factory trailer brake control and pigtail connection. It worked fine last year.
I checked the connector with a test light and there is only power to the running lights. I then disconnected the plug at the back of the trailer connector and tested there and got the same results. Are there particular fuses or relays I should look at?
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2010 F-150 owner. Why my left trailer-stop/turn will not work on any of my trailers. This issues has happen to me in the past due to a wire grounding out in one of my trailers, I have fixed the issue in the past by changing the 20amp trailer/tow fuse, this time the fuse looks fine and I am still not having any luck finding the issue. I have went through my manual to see if it could be a different fuse and they all seem to check out ok, I have also messed around with the relays and they seem to be fine too?
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Just returned from an 8500 mile travel trailer trip with my 2012 F150 with EcoBoost. Couldn't be happier with how the truck performed. Did discover, however, that my 7-pin connector does NOT charge trailer battery while driving. Wasn't a problem this trip, but could be an issue when dry camping (no electrical hookup). Is it a big deal to get my connector to charge trailer battery while driving?
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I have a question about my new to me 2006 F-250 CC, 4x4. Resource the 12-volt accessory supply wire that goes to pin #4 on the 7 pin trailer connector? We have interior lights in our enclosed race trailer and it's a bit of a pain to have to turn the key on to use the lights. Just don't want to run a direct fused wire from the battery to the plug if I don't have to.
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I've got a 2001 f150 supercrew 4x4 with the 4.6. I plugged in trailer lights and now I have no brake, turn signal, or hazard lights. I've checked fuses and none are blown.
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Setup my Reese brake controller on my 2011 today. The lights, turnsignals, and brakes work when I push the brake pedal. But when I move the lever on the controller, I get nothing. Also, on the info screen, it still says trailer disconnected. What gives?
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Why won't the iPad charge when plugged into the USB port in the center console ? My iPhone charges and auto plays but the iPad will only auto play.
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This is Just an FYI. I replaced the plugs in my 2011 F-150 3.5 Ecoboostwith 50,000 miles. I had a miss under heavy acceleration. Turns out the plugs had a gap over .090" and the side electrode was burned. Replaced them and all is well.
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My 2010 5.4 F-150 Lariat 2WD truck has 130,000 Miles on it and the gas mileage took a dive from 16.5 to 15.2. I'm over due to change the spark plugs. Are there any secrets or tricks I should know about before I get started changing them.
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My truck has a similar rough idle and I decided to investigate. What my plug gap was supposed to be as I didn't have access to my owners manual at the time. The specs I was given (.041-.047) is what I followed and recapped my plugs .045. The idle improved a great deal.
Now I was wondering and finally got around to checking my owners manual after I read somewhere that the gap for the 5.0 changed between 12 and 13 model years. What I found in my owners manual is that the gap I'm supposed to have is from .049-.053. My plugs were out anyway at .057. I will leave them be at .045 but am wondering why the change from .041-.047 on the 2011 model years to .049-.053 on the 2012+ model years? I assume the engine hasn't changed, so am curious of the thought process.
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