Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: How To Diagnose Or Check Operation Of IWE
Apr 20, 2017
Picked up a very used truck this week to use for occasional towing. it's a 2009 F150 Suercrew 157" WB 5.4L V8 4x4.
Backing into a muddy parking spot, in 4H, had some binding in the front while turning.
Haven't seen other issues, but this reminds me of a problem I had many years ago in a different truck that turned out to be a problem with the IWE system.
How would I test this system for correct function?
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My 2009 f150 5.4 v8 went from 18 MPG to 13 MPG and the check engine light is on?
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2010 F-150 5.4L 3V gas, 6 speed auto, 2WD.
I got a Bully Dog GT Platinum Gas with plans to purchase a tune from 5starturning. Was messing around and loaded the built in 05-10 Ford Gas tune in Bully Dog... all went well.
Take it for a drive around and next thing I see is my check engine light is on so back to the house and revert back to the factory file... again, all went well.
No such luck; still have the check engine light and the Bully Dog says there are no DTC codes. Needless to say, I'm a bit freaked out.
I have tried uninstalling the Bully Dog tune and reverting to factory file and still no luck.
I think I would feel better about it if I could just find some comment saying "this is common just unhook the battery and reset and go on your merry way".
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Purchased certified pre owned 2009 f150 may/2010 24,000 mile. The check engine light intermittently comes and goes. It seems that its either cold temperature or related to filling the gas tank. The first time it appeared I drove 100 mile then the truck sat over the weekend and went back off when started. The second time had serviced for the check light and the dealer diagnostic pin pointed P0304, P0305, P0300 and P0316 and replaced cyl 4&5 coils.
Prior to the replacement of the coils the truck averaged 18.2 mpg since the repair the mpg dropped to 17.6 and now at 17.2mpg. Had the truck in again and the light was on when I made the appointment but went back off when I went to the dealer. They said the reset the computer. The light twice has since went on and then back off after a couple days. The only observation is that the outside temperature on both occurrences has been below freezing and that I had filled up the tank.
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After about 5 miles from my normal place to purchase fuel, My truck bagan to run bad and the check engine light kicked on. Mileage dropped to about 8 MPG. This morning, the truck would not start and after 2 can's of dry gas, I was able to start it (barely).
I stopped at the place where I purchased fuel and at least they admitted that they has to shut down yesterday, stating they received a bad batch of fuel from their source.
Now the fun begins...How do I get the "bad gas" out of my truck?. I now have about 1/4th of a tank. I tried to run a line to siphon the gas and I can not get a line far enough into the tank.
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I have a 2011 F-150 Supercab 4x4 and the brake warning system is starting to drive me nuts. A couple of months ago the warning light came on along with a message to check brake system. I didn't find anything wrong, even flushed the hydraulic system. all seemed OK. Now the warning came back on, the message center will reset and the warning light will reset after shutting off the truck.
I can drive in city/town and the warning does not come on. But if I drive open road for about 30 miles with out using the brakes I get the warning again. I'll reset the message center and it'll clear, then about every 10 miles it chimes and shows to check brake system. It is strange that that I can drive hundred of miles in town using the brakes and not warning but get on the open road and not using the brakes I get the warning after 30 miles.
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2011 eb just turned 36k. Today on breezeway it shuddered like it swallowed a bird, and check engine light flashed on. Went to see customer left and light was off. Back on breezeway and shuddered on entrance ramp so this time I stayed into it so either there's a light that will stay on or just launch it and this time the dealer will have something to fix that they can diagnose. Check engine light is on its fine as long as I stay out of the pedal. Still have 8 months left on power train warranty but what am I looking at for a diagnose, there is definitely a problem now. What the dealership should see?
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He has a 2013 F-150 XLT with the Ecoboost. He has 29,000 miles on the truck.
He is ~1,300 miles into his trip; and has about another 4,500 to go! On Friday, his check engine light came on (while towing). The next day it went back off. Yesterday, the light came back on (while not towing this time). He took the truck into a Ford Dealer in Rapid City, SD this morning. The CEL light was still on this morning when he arrived at the dealership. The dealership said the code is P0299 - Turbo Underboost.
They said they've run tests and can find nothing wrong. Naturally, he is not very happy being this far from home with 3 more weeks of vacation left and his truck acting up. Especially since the CEL light is on but the dealer can find nothing wrong. I'd be puckered-up too!
Experienced this Turbo Underboost condition? What was the cause? How can the CEL light be on but the dealership not be able to find a problem?
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Truck: 2009 F-150 Lariat SCrew 5.4 4x4 with 6.5" bed
For the last few years, I've had this intermittent problem where the service engine light (wrench icon) will pop on and the truck will go into limp home mode. While it's in this mode, all of the indicators on the dash freak out. Low fuel warning will come on, temperature warning, low battery voltage, etc. Turning the truck off and back on (sometimes a couple times) is enough to get it back to normal, albeit with a check engine light that needs to be cleared. It's happened infrequent enough that I've just been dealing with it. I got the codes a couple years back, but there wasn't much information available on what the potential causes might be. The Checker Auto parts database suggested one might be related to a wheel speed sensor.
Well, this afternoon it happened again, and I was near an O'Reilly, so I took it in to pull the codes. There were 9 total in the system; 5 of which were unique:
B0025
B00D5
U0073
U0100
U0253
They didn't have any information on what was causing them. What could be causing this. I'm getting sick of having to clear the check engine light and worry about the truck falling into limp home mode when I'm at intersections.
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I have a 2009 ford f150 4.6l 3v v8 standard cab with about 53k miles on it.
Recently the check engine light came on so i went to autozone to have the codes pulled for free, it says i have a small evaporative leak.
They said may be the gas cap, but the thing is, i have a quick fill cap that came in stock with truck so the gas cap isnt even needed.
I've looked under the hood, and noticed that there is little pool of oil on top of the valley of the engine on the passenger side of the engine, could it possibly be the PCV hose that is bad and be related to the evaporative leak code? or its unrelated and i have a bad gasket for the valve cover?
It isn't affecting the performance of the engine,.. yet. I have a road trip for my work coming up very soon and i wanted to try to fix it before then.
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For the last few months my truck has been throwing an intermittent check engine light due to the same code every time - P0171. The dealer has allegedly checked everything and has given me the "We have done all we can do" speech. Lead tech even suggested that since today's fuels have alcohol in them, that a check engine light would be normal. The truck has been in the shop 3 times with no success or even remote possibility of what the problem could be.
The check engine light has since gone from intermittent to constant and comes back on after 5 drive cycles after clearing with an OBD2 scanner. Also, I'm now getting a P0174 code.
Personally, I think they're trying to blow me off because I'm a few months and about 2k miles away from being out of CPO warranty.
Truck is a 2013 F150 Super crew 2wd 5.0 with about 45k miles.
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I took delivery of my 2012 FX4 Eco in January and about a month or so later I began experiencing a loss of power and the check engine light would come on then go off again. This happened the first time in Houston traffic one day so I was pretty concerned needless to say but then it cleared itself shortly thereafter. However, heading back home it occurred again on the highway while I was trying to pass and she just didn't have the power. I took it to a Houston dealer late in the afternoon before I left but no codes were found and when I got it back to my local dealer it was determined the left side catalytic converter was bad and it was subsequently replaced. Well, it happened again and it's back in the shop while I am offshore so they have plenty of time to take care of it.
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Just hit 70,000 miles and went out of warranty. The issue is the Heads Up Display periodically shows "Check Back Up Sensor". When this occurs the sensors do not detect, and this doesn't happen all the time. I did clean the lens on each of them.
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I have a 2013 F150 6.2L and it wont start. It was running great and when I drove it around the corner it just shut down no clunk no warning just bam shut off. I had a engine code P0355 ( which indicated cylinder 5 coil malfunction). changed the coil and it will not fire the engine code has gone away but it will still not fire. I changed the oil just to be safe and no metal shavings in it.... Turns over just fine but will not fire. I added more fuel just to be safe ( thinking maybe I had bad fuel but that didn't work either.
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I just got my new 2009 F150 XL yesterday and after 100 miles today the message center has started to read Check Fuel, Fill Inlet.
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2009 F-150 FX4 5.8 .... Had a couple days of 20's temps, started truck last night and I have the brakes symbol and ABS light staying on, with the message "Check brake system" and the traction control symbol alternating back and forth. On a 16 mile trip, they all went out just once, for about ten seconds when I restarted at the gas station. Then came back on. Brake job done within the last two years by previous owner at the dealership.
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I had an huge amount of work done to my 2004 Excursion (early model 6.0) earlier this year. ARP studs, new HPOP, ICP, IPR, Ford lifters, Ford push rods, EGR delete, Bulletproof remote oil cooler and filter, EBP sensor and tube, Ford head gaskets, and a bunch of other stuff including eventually a new FICM (not Ford) and a new 140 Amp alternator.
My problem is it sounds to me like some sort of metallic tapping is going on and it doesn't feel as smooth as I would expect -- like a very soft miss. Currently the tech says that there are no "low contributing cylinders". I am wondering if there may be a slightly bent push rod? He is adamant that a bent push rod won't stay where it is supposed to -- I say it depends on how bent it is. I am also worried that a rocker arm may be bent or deformed in some way.
My question is this; Once the valve covers come off -- if nothing looks wildly wrong, where do I begin to confirm that I do not have bent push rods or damaged rocker arms? He says that in order to check the push rods we would have to remove head bolts off of the rocker arms (I think I have that right). But he said we run the risk of compromising the head gaskets if we touch anything like that. If we have to remove head bolts (stud nuts for me?) can you take one rocker arm loose, check that rocker arm and push rod, and put it back together safely? Without having to pull it all the way down and put new head gaskets, etc? That would mean releasing the clamping pressure across both heads at each rocker arm -- is that creating the potential for blown head gaskets?
I know in my youth we would roll push rods on a sheet of glass (12" X 12") because glass is supposed to be flat -- can't bend it or deform it without breaking it first. I assume that still works. I now have a Scan Gauge II but it is not set up yet to check all of the readings for the sensors. I also believe I need to check for leaks with simple green and to make sure I don't have any exhaust leaks. But what about the push rod/rocker arm question? Is there another way to verify integrity?
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How to diagnose misfire with no CEL? 2001 F250 5.4. What could cause it?
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How to diagnose a vacuum leak without a vacuum leak diagnostic tool.
My ESOF won't engage, AC/heat blowers default to defrost - classic symptoms. And while we can leave without AC/heat, we really need the ability to engage 4x4 low, especially as we get higher into the Andes and the roads become rough.
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Been a common problem for years and recently got one in the shop for the concern with the EGR port plugging up and then dumping all the egr into the one cylinder that is not plugged causing a misfire off idle. Many know of this concern but I have yet to see a good example of it. I show you some easy diagnosis before you pull the upper plenum to inspect the ports.
This video is hosted at YouTube . If the video does not play, wait a minute or try again later.
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The first step is to clear the P3009 trouble code by unhooking the 12V battery for a moment or using a code reader. Now turn the key on/ but NOT start/ready mode, wait 30 seconds and if the code comes back, the leak is in the battery case. If the code does not return, turn key to start to "ready mode" and immediately shift to neutral and stay this mode for 30 seconds. If the code returns, the leak is in the power cables or inverter. If the code did not set, shift to drive and if the code appears now (can take up to a minute or so), the leak is in the transaxle. This is something that can be done in a few minutes without a scan tool or "megger" while never removing any components and not leaving the driver seat.
Ideally you want 3009 in battery case. That might be fixable without buying anything, just take apart battery and clean bus bars etc. If your bus bars are really "gooey", new ones are available from the dealer for a couple hundred bucks. Inverter is harder to replace, transaxle is the hardest.
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