Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Heat Shield Under Oil Pan / Front Hole Ripped
Mar 29, 2015
This fiber material doesn't hold up to mud and sand very well. So much so, that the front hole ripped through. It won't stay fastened. I have all of the twist bolts still. Looking for a way to fix the shield so it will hold. I tried exposing a washer to it, but the epoxy doesn't like the material very well. I know the owners manual says to remove the shield if you are going to be off roading, but I hesitate to leave it off 100% of the time.
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I have a 2012 screw 4x4 eb. I noticed under the truck there is some sort of heat shield under the transmission. The owners manual suggests removing this and the lower air dam before going off road. Can these items be removed permanently? Any effect on mpg's?
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I have a 2010 F150 FX4 with the 5.4L, and lately under slow movement (less that 20km/h it is sounding like there is a rattle. I can try to get a video of the sound later, now I'm wondering if the universal bearings in the driveshaft would be making this noise or if it could be the 4wd actuators failing? Would either of these make a loud rattle? (Sounds like a heat shield shaking but all are tight). Had a Ranger up until last year so just learning the ins and outs of F150 life.
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I want to replace the auto trans coolant lines on my 2001 F150 4.2L. I discovered I can actually see the top coolant line flare nut from outside the right wheel well, with the wheel and wheel liner removed. The lower line is just a few inches below. See photo, it's a little off, so the line connector is not seen:
The heat shield is just a little bit in the way for my hands, I have to put one through the red circled area. A 1/2" hex head bolt holds the shield to the frame (circled in green). This was easy to remove from the wheel well. After that the heat shield could be moved slightly away from the points I need to access.
I would prefer to unfasten the shield & move it out of the way for my hands. I found another bolt holding the rear end of the shield down to the frame, wasn't able to remove this - the bolt fastens to a U-nut in the frame that broke off & has trapped the bolt. Are there any other bolts fastening the heat shield down?
I was able to remove the old flare nuts with a 5/8" flare nut wrench, but have not been able to start the new nuts into their fittings, just not quite enough visibility and access.
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Got a rattle from the car, I think it's the catalytic converter heat shield. Looking for any pictures of what it looks like? I don't know if it is a full cover on our Toyota's, or a half cover. I will post a picture of what mine looks like now that it is rattling later today. Hoping it's an easy fix.
2009 Corolla CE 1.8L.
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So my wife nailed a small spike buck and he when up under the truck. On his way back, his antlers hit the intercooler. One side tube was collapsed and the other collapsed but tore open. Has to repair one the tubes and, if so, with what. I was thinking I could pull the dent out with a pick and then put some sort of epoxy over it.
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On my '12 F-150 Ecoboost there is a substantial opening in the lower center of the vehicle. I know that you can purchase a small after-market grill insert for that area. Is it wise to do that, or is in fine the way it is?
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I thought id tackle installing my new boss intake this morning and didn't think to clean everything up enough and after i removed the fuel rail some dirt and small stones one was about a quarter of in inch round fell into the injector hole. I no that all will be in the engine now and I feel awful about it.
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My heat shield was loose and my dealer said it should be fine, but then it stormed and driving home I ran over a branch and when I got home I noticed the heat shield was ripped and dragging on the ground. It is pretty torn up and I'm thinking of just taking it off. Am I allowed to take it off? If so how should I go about taking it off?
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Managed to break loose a corner of the plastic air shield under head lights bracket is broken. Does epoxy repair kits will work ok on this.
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I have a 2010 F150 Lariat with dual heat controls. The passenger side has no heat, blows cold air. Doesn't matter if it is defrost, vent, floor and recirculate.
Search online, it appeared that the blend door actuator motor would be the problem. I have put in a new one, but nothing changes. What to look at next?
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I have an '09 Plat SCREW with the dual zone climate control. No matter what temp I set I'm only getting cold air out of the drivers side IP & floor vents as well as the two rear facing vents in the top of the center console. Since I'm out of warranty I'm wondering if there's anything I can check or fix on my own without taking it into the dealer.
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Ordered my TBE couple of weeks ago, installed last week. I have been running the 100 octane tune for an entire week. Decided a couple of days ago to put it back to stock to see the difference. When I was running the 100 oct, I was pretty much on it the whole time. When I went back to stock I noticed some heat shield noise so I took it back to have them take a look. While on the lift I noticed a lot of soot in three different places.
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I have a major rattling sound from under my car... it sounds exactly like a heat shield. I have been up under my car 5 times and I can not find a loose shield anywhere. the cat insulator mesh is still in perfect condition and it now seems the sounds is coming from somewhere in the back of the car, perhaps the muffler area.
This car does have the flapper mod done... could there be something inside the muffler itself? the car only has 40k on the ODO and I have not hit anything or do not have a dented muffler. As a fellow VW'er I do not want to be the only one running around town rattling...
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I have what I think is a heat shield rattling at around 2500-2700 rpm. or maybe not? It's not that noticeable but it's driving me mad
Is there a more simple answer that it could be? Keep in mind I claim very very little mechanical knowledge.
I am going to my dealer tomorrow for something unrelated and I kinda want to get a head start when I go to talk to the service dudes.
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I can't recall whos makes them. What are our options? I have the VMR intake if that matters.
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I have a CTS Turbo intake and have recently purchased a heatshield. It did not come with instructions. I tried installing it this weekend and it was a no go. I'm assuming the pieces for the factory engine cover in the rear is what the heatshield needs to replace to bolt on. I couldn't get those off for the life of me.
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I have a 2009 f150 fx4 it will not blow cold air or heat on any setting. I have replaced the resistor and it stopped working again if i smack the black box the resistor is in it will work again. My question is where is the blower motor and how hard of a job is it to change. I just ordered the motor.
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I got a heat shield that just will not stop causing me grief. When I installed the headers and pipes I had a heat shield that was too close to the passenger side pipes. I bent it down some to clear the pipe and got rid of a nasty metallic sound I had on the throttle and making left hand turns. Well that little sound returned last week and I crawled under and looked and sure enough the heat shield was touching again.
Who knows why maybe a bit a spring sag. So yesterday I bent it down a little more. Today I start getting a nasty clunk on dips and especially when on a bump why turning. I crawl under there too look and find the same heat shield now has a huge gouge on the under side of it where the leaf spring near the rear bushing is smacking it. I'm sure Ford put it there for a good reason so hate to remove it.
First pic of the hacked up bend job I put on it.
Second pic of the gouge in the bottom of it where it's hitting.
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I have a 42 DD tb exhaust. And so far I've used a 3" exhaust clamp over the last hanger (after the muffler) which raised the exhaust all the way up against the heatshield, eliminating the rattle over the rear axle beam. But the exhaust was rattling against the heatshield.
So I bought 15 ft of exhaust wrap and wrapped the section that comes in contact with the heatshield. It worked a bit but it still rattles a little! I hate this rattling! How to get rid of the rattling? Should I just use more exhaust wrap?
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The catalytic converter shield is tack welded on the front end but free on the rear end. There was originally some braided wire packing at the rear to keep the shield from rattling against the pipes. Mine was deteriorated and had been damaged, I think, when I sustained some oil pan damage last summer -- big jolt to the system when running over a muffler on the highway.
The fix is simple. Bought a foot of 3/16" braided stainless steel cable. I used about 8 inches and layed in the lower bead line on the catalytic converter shield (see picture below). You can see a bit of the cable thru the gap in the upper/lower shield on the left side. (1/4" cable would be a better fit, but this will work for a long time.) Cost: $1.84
The local VW parts man dug out an exploded drawing of the system but it showed NO parts or packing for this problem.
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