Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: HVAC Malfunctioning - Getting Popping Noise Under The Dashboard - A/C Not Working Properly
Oct 12, 2016
I have a 2011 f150 xl with the basic climate system. I'm having a couple issues with my hvac system. Initially when I took over payments on this truck I was getting a little popping noise under the dash that would go away after a couple pops. I took the bezel off to look at the radio and how it was mounted for a separate issue when I put everything back together I started the truck and now that popping is constant (it is the blend motor actuator, I've already determine that and have a new one coming) the other issue I got is that now the ac will only blow through defrost no matter what button I push. When I start up it will blow out the defrost like the flap is in default then it will blow out of the dash for a few seconds and then go back to blowing out of the defrost. I still have speed control tho I don't have 1 ,which I didn't have before that, and I haven't tried temp yet but I'm assuming it still works. Do the newer trucks still use vacuum to control the flaps or is it all electronic? I've noticed when I look at the actuators they all have a plug end instead of a vacuum port. And would the defrost vent issue be a dash control issue or would it be the actuator for that one a
s well?
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I have only had my truck a few days and have a problem with the remote start.
It worked great for the first few days, but now this.
This morning i was in the house and tried to remote start. Lock, then the 2x button 2 times. truck beeped at me. So i did it again and again. Nothing but the truck honking at me. So i tried, unlock, lock 2x. Still honked at me.
THen i went out in the cold 5 ft from the truck and it did the same thing. so i climbed in started the truck manually, then shut it off , got out locked the doors. Then i did the lock, 2x two times and the truck fired up.
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Was 7 degrees F out this morning. Went to turn on the defrost and heard this: (may need to turn up audio a bit)
2013 F150 HVAC blower noise in cold temps - YouTube
There was some snow/ice buildup under the "grate" that sits above that I imagine is the air intake for the blower. Hoping that it was just Ice buildup that will thaw out.
I ended up having to turn it on because the condensation on the windshield was becoming a safety issue when I drove into work. Motor made quite a high pitched wine. Better that than slid into a car.
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Been having an issue lately with the AC system on my 2010 4.6L F150. The AC system is not working properly and is only blowing air the same temp as outside. In other words, if its 60 degrees in the morning the AC will blow cool, but later in the day its blowing warm. Pushes air no problem, but living in Florida, it's mainly warm air. Compressor clutch is kicking on and off fairly rapidly when on max AC setting (5-10 seconds on, then 5-10 seconds off). Hooked up gauge to low pressure side and the readings were 60psi WITH compressor on, then fell to 30psi when the compressor turns off. Where to start? Haven't done too many AC fixes before. Potentially a bad compressor? Overcharged lines?
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Just got my Lariat dream truck yesterday and filled it up today... The gauge is only reading 3/4 of a tank and 424 MTE. I saw a thread about this but it didn't have a definitive answer to the problem with that truck. I don't want to fill it to the point of overflow to check it, when it stops at the pump I stop pumping gas.
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I have a 2013 F-150 Lariat 5.0 L, 6 speed auto transmission crew cab truck with 44,000 miles on it. Recently I have experienced problems with the transmission not shifting properly. Three times when I have started out of my driveway, it has shifted into 2nd gear while I am going only 2-3 mph up my driveway which is about a 10-12 degree incline. It stays in 2nd gear even if I stop. When I pull out onto the highway, it shifted normally into the remaining gears. Then, the other night as I was returning home, while traveling up the road, it shifted into 5th gear and stayed there even when it needed to downshift. A wrench i-con appeared on my screen, my odometer showed dash lines instead of mileage and my seatbelt i-con appeared. When I got home, I shut the truck off and restarted it and everything was normal again. I have driven the truck a couple more times with no issues. The transmission shifts normally. Could a sensor be going bad ?
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I have a muted popping noise coming from behind the dashboard. It occurs with ventilation system on and off and stereo on and off. Happens most often when vehicle on a little uneven pavement.
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2010 fx4 duel temp controls...
My driver side works great (heat and AC). My passenger side does not cool or heat properly. Not sure about the back.
From what I have read this is most likely the upper door actuator...Which is what I was hoping because the lower one is such a nightmare. Am I on the right track here?
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I noticed that my ebrake wont hold my car when I apply it while in neutral on a really not steep hill in front of my house. When I put it in park, the only thing holding the car is the transmission so when I turn it on again when going out AND put the transmission in drive it makes a clunking sound.
Went to the dealer for my 5k maintenance checkup and explained this. The guy said that the ebrake was not supposed to hold your car like that and that all cars did that when parked on a hill. He said that the ebrake had really limited adjustability and since it did hold the car on a falt surface, it was ok.
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I had this plastic on plastic sound on the passenger side dashboard...this started last weekend when it was cold outside and drove me crazy, I looked around and came up with this piece of foam under the hood and windshield bezel next to the hood hinge....After a few field adjustments on this piece of foam I took my truck for a test drive and its gone....for now!
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I have the car stored but when I went to start it last week it was dead. Trickle charged the battery and noticed on the cluster my car said the door was open (it was not). I firmly closed it and it the indicator went off, check later and the light came back on. It's likely hardware and not something I can clear so any tips?
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I have a problem with my Backup reverse camera, actually my tiguan not bring it with camera backup and I install and change the radio for rcd 510 bosch with backup camera port,
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I have a 2009 Prius base model, and I've been having two different brake problems.
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I have a corolla 2010 S and I think the blower is not working properly. It work in all speeds but in the max speed (4) you could hear and feel that the air flow varies. There is a little noise coming from the glove compartment. I already change the cabin air filter and still do it. I have to change the blower ?
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I have a 2009 camry with sunroof my overhead console is not working properly there is a 2007 camry console for sale that looks the same,my question is will it fit and work properly?
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My wife drives a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited which we bought new back in 09. she has put roughly 140,000 miles in that time span. We have religiously followed all required maintenance routines; this is the first major issue we have EVER had with our Santa Fe. The issue we are having involves the AC unit. Instead of blowing ice cold air, the air vents are blowing hot air as if the heater is on. I have check all major AC components and everything is working properly. I believe we are having a controls issue.
At one point, all vents would only blow hot air. The other day, the passenger side vents started blowing ice cold air while the driver side still blew hot air. The driver's side has not blown cold air since this issue started about a week ago. We do have dual climate control; I have tried every possible combination of controls to see if it's a particular switch or button; however, I have not had much luck.
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I have a 10' F150 and the radio has frozen. It will turn on but only displays the compass, Ext Temp, and time. All three of those items flash every two to three seconds. The controls in the steering wheel and dashboard no longer work (volume, seek, media, voice control...).
Things I've tried that haven't worked:
1. Turning the radio off and on
2. Restarting the truck
3. Pulling any fuses associated with the radio in the sub fuse box not sure of the technical name).
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At night, when I turn the key to "on". The stereo light (orange)'s illuminated but no light coming from the dashboard. Other lights on the dashboard -- e.g. engine check, oil, door indicators are fine. When I start the car, the stereo light's gone away and I still have no dashboard lights. I tried to change the channel, put in a CD, increase/decrease volumes but none of those activated the light. All other functionalities seem to be working fine.
I checked the fuse box under the dashboard console. All fuses look good to me. What might be going on or I just simply have bad dashboard light bulbs? What's about the stereo lights?
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My dashboard lights and radio are not working. I checked the radio fuses and they are ok. I cant find why these aren't working.
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In my 1999 Ranger, I can flip the air outlet switch to cause the air to exit either up, down, or straight out -- except that most of the time the air WILL NOT come straight out the dashboard ducts. I am assuming that there is some kind of diverter valve inside the dash that is intermittently working, but I do not know how to get to it. Do I remove the radio panel? If so, how? Or is there a way to get to it some other way, like from underneath or through the glove box? Does it just need a shot of WD-40 to free it up?
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Getting backfire or popping noise after deceleration with our cars. It didn't do it before with oem exhaust, just wondering if we're going to get a little bit from my new joe z exhaust, or do I have a leak somewhere with my installation. Or do I just need it break in a little more. How do I check for leaks , Do I just need to ramp the car and check all the flanges for where the exhausts bolts up and check for alignment issues.
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