Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Gas And Brake Pedal Adjustment
Nov 17, 2012
I just purchased a 2011 F-150 XTR and i noticed the pedals very close to me and i know it does not have electric positioning and it appears that looking at it, it can be adjusted manually..
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I have a 2009 F-150 Supercrew. I have noticed that when I am going down a hill and hit a bump with my foot on the brake pedal it depresses and I get a springing sensation from the pedal. It almost feels like I am depressing a spring with my foot and then it comes back to normal ???? Just yesterday I was on an off-ramp of the interstate in a sharp curve and it did it without hitting a bump ???? What is causing this or how to fix it ??
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The brake pedal is a little too high for my tastes, and I'd like to lower it a good inch. How I can do this.
I'm not sure if any Camrys come with adjustable brake pedals, but mine appears to not, and it's an XLE, which leads me to think they don't.
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I have a 2002 Ranger that I adjusted the torsion bar so the front end sits level. My dad has a 2007 F150 XLT that doesnt appear to have a torsion bar. I am looking at trading for a 2010-2012 F150. What year did the F150's stop having torsion bars? Do ALL F150's not have them or does it vary by trim package? If I were to buy a 2010-2012 F150, what would I have to do to make the truck sit level (raise the front end)?
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I have a 2009 f150 is there any way to adjust the sensitivity of when the automatic head lights come on?
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Is there a way to move the wheel higher than the highest setting? I like to keep the seat at its highest and its difficult getting in and out of the truck.
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Is there anyway we can adjust our throttle or gas pedal? Cause when I press down on gas, it doesn't open until about an inch down the pedal. Pretty much, I just want the throttle to be more responsive.
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Been looking at a level for my truck and some new wheels and tires. If I change sizes, can the dealership recalibrate my Speedo and transmission shift points for me?
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2010 Ford F-150 Lariat crew cab ... Is there any way to adjust the door on the passenger side? It is not close all the way. When it rains hard it gets in the cab.
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Perhaps a strange question, but is there any way the pedal height can be decreased. On my 2010 LS 460 it seems to be higher than on my previous 2005 LS 430 to the extent that I lift my foot off the accelerator pedal and miss the top of the brake pedal. It's happened often enough that I've been wondering if it could be reduced an inch or so.
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Was checking fuses for why my 3rd brake light and pedal adjustment switch does not work. Was also looking for a fuse to tie into so that a light in the cab floorboard will stay on when the headlights or marker lights are on... After trying several spots to no avail (finally putting it into the bright headlight fuse). I got the light to work.... But now my ABS light stays on!!! Also 3rd brake still not working...
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Every once in a while, I'll feel a vibration in the gas pedal. It happens under acceleration, and typically if I'm pushing down and it has not downshifted yet. Then once it downshifts the vibration is less noticeable.
I know there have been issues with the Electronic Throttle Control on these drive-by-wire trucks, particularly on the Super Duty trucks.
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Just a quick question about the locking differential. I'm just wondering can you activate the locking diff while turning or on the gas pedal? Because today when I was climbing up an icy hill, I thought I'd turn on the locking diff,I was still on the gas when I pulled the switch. For a second I saw a warning on my dashboard, but quickly went away before I had a chance to read it. Just wondering in what conditions you can lock the diff. I also hear that you couldn't activate it while turning at a certain degree?
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I recently had a leveling kit installed on my 2014 f150 super crew 4wd. When I picked it up, I heard a humming in the front end that ended up being a bad iwe actuator. I took it to the ford dealer and they replaced it. No more humming, but now I have a very annoying vibration in my gas pedal that can also be felt in the floor board and gas pedal. I've had it aligned. I thought it might be my front driveshaft so I put it in neutral while driving and vibration is the same. It gets worse when I get up around 70mph. I also feel small jerks in the gas pedal at these speeds along with the vibration. It vibrates worse under heavy acceleration as well. Cause I can't wait to set my cruise every time I drive it bothers me that much. Only has 10,000 miles on it.
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2009 FX4... Every once in a while, I'll feel a vibration in the gas pedal. It happens under acceleration, and typically if I'm pushing down and it has not downshifted yet. Then once it downshifts the vibration is less noticeable.
I have had the mechtronic unit replaced due to harsh shifting and the vibration was there before and after that was replaced. The drive shaft was also replaced due to a click/clinking noise and the vibration was there before and after as well. The harsh shifting and clinking noise was fixed with those repairs, but the vibration is still there. I notice it more when I am towing.
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I purchased my 2012 EB used with 35k miles on it. at about 42k I had the condensation issue happen when passing several RV's in a mountain pass. I took the truck to the dealer I purchased it from and they did the TSB13-8-1 Fix to it. I noticed right away that I had lost some power (I was very saddened).
I also have Noticed that I lost about 2.5-3 MPG. Since the work was done I still have a shudder that feels a lot like the transmission is slipping when I mash the go peddle. this does not happen every time but I would say it does happen better then 50% of the time at highway speeds trying to pass slower rigs or getting up to speed to enter the highway.
My question is has ford updated the TSB's for the 2012 EB F150's lately? I love this Truck, it is the only vehicle (besides my motorcycle) I have owned to date that I was not tired of after about 6 month's. I hope when I take the truck back to the shop next week that there is a fix that works that I get my MPG's and power back and that lets me drive it the way it should be driven.
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The problem is I haven't seen one for a recent (2011+) SD. I don't see anything that resembles a rear drum. They look like 2 huge regular disc brakes.
I live on a hill. My old man taught me to put the trans in neutral, autos and manuals, put the ebrake on and make sure it holds the vehicle, then put the trans into park or 1st gear. This way the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the transmission.
How do I adjust the Ebrake? It's ALMOST holding the truck, just needs a minor tweak. I don't see the dust cover the write ups described at all. The one that reveals the Star Wheel. Are they different on these years then prior SD's?
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I got in a work truck yesterday, sat down, put my seat belt on and started the truck. Just as I did that another employee drove by and waved, all I could do was nod back at him because my hand was still starting the truck. This took my attention away for a split second, then as I put the truck in gear, my foot still on the brake, I noticed that the tachometer was pegged and the engine was racing. I instinctively pushed harder on the brake pedal, then looked down to be sure that I was pushing on the brake pedal and I was. Right then then rear of the truck started shaking violently and as fast as I could I turned the key off and put it back in park. This all happened in about 1 second, maybe 2.
The shaking was caused by the sheared off driveshaft. And it was sheared off because the center section of the rear differential had broken the spot welds that hold it and place and rotated on the axel housings. It is now pointing upward towards the bed of the truck. Have a drive by wire truck run the engine at wide open throttle with no input from the pedal? 2010 F150 4.6L...
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Getting a clunk feel and sound while pressing the brake pedal? If I press harder, another clunk or two occurs. Felt and hear especially at low speed or stopped. No issues braking, but the clunk has slowly gotten worse since I dropped the car on RSR Downs which could be a coincidence.
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I put on new Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors with Hawk ceramic pads. I did the brake in runs and could feel the stopping power improving. When I got back to the house I looked at the rotors and I noticed that on the driver's side the pads are not parallel to the rotor. They are hitting on the outer edge of the outboard side and the inner edge (closest to the hub) on the inboard side. Took it all back apart and I can't see and reason for this. Double checked all the mating surfaces and didn't see any problems. I torqued the caliper brackets to 150 ftlbs and the lug nuts also to 150 ftlbs. Is it a problem the caliper sliders?
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Have an issue with their third brake light leaking. The shop priced 275ish to replace/fix leak. I figured a 5 dollar tube of clear OSI would do stop the leak just as well. Any reason why I shouldn't just seal the brake light instead of replace.
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