Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Front Hubs Are Ratcheting - Vacuum Leak
May 4, 2013
2009 f150 4x4. My front hubs are ratcheting, I probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. Any trick to find it? I had to drive about 90 kilometers to get home, hope I didn't ruin anything. I don't have a vacuum pump, but I have a vacuum gauge.
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Having issues with the vacuum falling off to the hubs when driving and light throttle. I know makes no sense,but kept fighting this thing making vary harsh rubbing sound since I bought it used and I know its the little collar on the back side of hub that engages to hub to make the 4x4 connection but it looses vacuum when driving and very light throttle/load.
I verified using a vacuum gauge ran inside vehicle when driving. Checked all lines and hubs,everything good. Solenoid has vacuum when running but seems to quit when light load or throttle and as soon as vacuum falls off then the collar starts to engage and rubs but doesn't fully engage. I don't get it. Unless there's something on the computer side of it shutting off the solenoid or something.
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Wife's 2010 F150 4x4 85000 KMs makes grinding / ratcheting noise in LH front axle when in 2 wheel drive. Mostly when turning left some times when traveling straight never when turning right. Never makes the noise when in four wheel drive. I am suspecting the auto hub is the issue but wonder if others have had this trouble ?
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Front hubs are making a clicking noise pull in 4x4 and it quits also when pulling camper or boat quits make noise when you let off the gas could this be a vacuum line issue or automatic hub issue?
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My 2010 f150 stx 4x4 fails to lock in the front hubs...
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I have a 2010 F-150 FX4 SC 4x4 5.4l w/ automatic that has 52,000 miles on the clock give or take, unmodified with the only exception of a remote oil filter relocation unit.
I bought the truck with 48,000 on it and did not have this noise, I've had it back to the dealer and their best mechanic went for a ride with me and the noise was duplicated and the mechanic had the deer in the headlight look on his face and said he'd never heard anything like that before. I've searched the net for anything similar like this but have not found anything. The noise rears it's ugly head after the truck is warmed up and it first started around 55mph and went away at 65mph , then re-emerged at 75mph and left again at 82mph.
Tried the usual test things while noise was present first loading and unloading the steering left and right, (wheel bearing) no change. Next I applied the brakes (caliper rubbing) no change. Then I tried shifting to neutral (transmission or carrier bearing) no change. I also tried shifting into and out of 4x4 (transfer case) no change. If I speed up above those speeds or slow down below them, the noise disappears.
Recently... the noise seems to be more consistent and when it's present at 80mph and you let off the throttle, the noise is present all the way down to 55mph then magically goes away. The noise to me sounds like a vacuum leak in a rubber hose or a dry spinning shaft in a bushing, sort of a low hum that sounds like it's coming anywhere from the motor to the transmission area.
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I noticed that my 4WD is only working now when I manually lock the hubs in (they have that options!), and the air blows out the defroster when I shift, so it looks like I have a vacuum leak. Where are the typical leak points on a 2006 F250? What's the best way to confirm a leak (other than just replacing all of the hose)?
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I have an 04 F150 (4.6, auto, 4x4, SCrew) with 300,000 miles. Any success modifying existing 4X4 IWE actuators so they are always locked in?
My last set of actuators didn't last long My vacuum is too low under hard acceleration... Actuators partially engage leading to early failure.
I'd like to take an actuator apart, modify it so it's always locked in. Some loss of mileage? Other ramifications?
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I have a persistent leak that causes the front passenger carpet to get wet after a heavy rain. Truck went to the dealer under warranty and they resealed the third brake light. Not sure if it ever fixed the problem, but I probably didn't check it as often as I should have after the repair. We've had a few good rain storms and the carpet is getting pretty wet. Since the truck is now out of warranty (2011 F150) I made a new gasket for the third brake light. I think it's pretty well sealed, so I'm thinking the leak is coming from somewhere else.
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I have just purchased a 2010 FX4 5.4l on 5/4 and just found a leak coming from above the passenger side frame horn. It looks like it may be from the condensor but im not 100 percent certain. It is an odorless oil not condensate. It is a slow drip that i found after running the truck for a short time. the puddle it left was about the size of a bottom of a drinking glass.
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2011 F150 SCREW FX4 6.5' box Ecoboost... All of a sudden I had no power assist for the brakes.
In a "unit down" situation waiting for a replacement vacuum brake pump assembly from Ford? My truck has been stuck at the dealership for going on three weeks now waiting for this part. No one seems to be able to say when the part will be available, which suggests to me that Ford is waiting on the supplier to produce more.
They're paying for a rental, but the 2013 Escape isn't anything near my F-150. A week maybe, I could understand, but on 6/11/2013 it's going to be three full weeks since my truck was towed into the dealership. How many of these things are on the road? How do they not have this part readily available?
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Plugged in my SCT when I got home, P1450 code. "Unable to bleed up fuel tank vacuum" I did a search here but nothing in the 09-up section.
P1450 Error Code Excessive Fuel tank Vacuum - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans
I'm still googling but it seems I need to start by cleaning out the lines and evap which I'm not sure where its located. I'm going to get on a creeper tomorrow morning and have a peek but just wanted to see if any of my brothers ( or sisters ) here have had this issue. I just turned 35K miles.
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When I park over night while in 4x4, the next morning my hubs are disengaged and I have to manually lock them. There is an apparent slow/slight leak in the vacuum system. What would be the usual suspect, so I can start at that point?
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So from my previous post of might having a tranny problem or differential issue, it turns out that my front passenger side wheel hub is bad. Here is the odd part......the front passenger side wheel has some side to side play and it does make a clunk noise but it spins freely. On the driver side, there doesn't seem to be any play but it has resistance when spinning the wheels. Are both front wheel hubs bad or just one?
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I am thinking on installing a shutoff in the vacuum line that supplies the hubs so I can use 4LO for backing uphill with a trailer without having the hubs engage. Its either that or a switch to disable the PVH solenoid.
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I am in the process of replacing the complete front end on my 02 CC 4x4. Im replacing the hubs the lockers all seals and spindle axles. complete brakes with power stop and stainless brake lines ......I am going to switch back to the original automatic lockers. I am curious if has a simplified one line for the vacuum routing from the pump to the hubs?
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I have a 2005 f350 with the power stroke I went through the hole vacuum system all new hubs, seals, vacuum actuator and fixed it all now I'm having the reverse problems everyone has my hubs are locked all the time as soon as I plug in the vacuum actuator the transfer case is still in 2wd and will switch 4x4 and work and disengage but the hubs are always in unless I unplug the actuator ...
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I recently picked up a '99 F250 Super Duty with the 6.8L V10 for a song.
The 4 wheel drive hubs are not working with the vacuum. If I use the manual lock on the hubs all is well. I ordered the Innova 31703 CarScan OBD2 + OBD1/ABS/SRS Scan Tool. It says it does Trans codes. I am hoping it will cover the 4 wheel drive too.
Maybe related, the heat is always on. Meaning I feel heat at my feet when the temp dial is cold and fan is off. I can't find the heater control valve to check the vacuum line.
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I have a 2013 F250 which has both the Manual and auto locking hub feature. I tried to plow my driveway this morning and after making one pass I put the truck in reverse and could not back up my steep driveway. The truck is showing locked in 4x4 on the dash, the 4x4 control is in high lock but the front wheels will not turn. It has been very cold here lately (-30) and I'm wondering if the vacuum lines for the auto locking hubs have frozen. I have switched the control out of 4x4 and back in several times, and it does lock in again, but as soon as I put the truck into reverse, they unlock again. The hubs are covered with ice and snow right now so I have not yet tried to manually lock them.
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I have a stock GTI MKVI and now if I turn or cut the wheel sharp to park (all at slow speed) I get a ratcheting sound from up front. It is not the suspension "clunk" that some lowered cars get.
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2010 / 5.4... Attempting to trace the oil leak... thought it was power steering high pressure line but now I think that's just dirty from oil leaking through rad & blowing onto the steering line below. Looks like difficult to replace - anything I need to be cautious / aware of that's replaced a rad before?
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