Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Fog Light Mounting Bars
Feb 21, 2014
I'm going to transfer the large Lightforce 170's that are currently on my F-350 to the new truck when it arrives. I think it's because the EB 3.5 engine has different grill/bumper configuration then other 2014 F-150's that I'm having a hard time finding a simple bolt-on light mounting bar. What to get and where?
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I just found an almost new set of base carrier bars for my 2004 Passat Wagon at an estate sale. They were still in the original box, but the mounting instructions were missing.
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Mounting the shock with the boot up or down? I know it doesn't matter according to Bilstein but one way has to be better than the other.
Second. What are the torque specs for the upper and lower bolts? I know the lower front is around 350lbs but haven't found anything for the rest. found out the rear bolts are torqued to 66lb.
Third. The front shocks didn't come with a boot to protect the shaft. Is one needed when the shock is installed?
Truck is a 2012 F150 FX4.
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I have had no luck finding an F-150 without the Chrome package. The side bars that come with that are next to useless. Assuming I order a truck, what aftermarket sidebars are good for stepping out on? My dad cant use the factory ones. BTW, I curse the engineer that took the grab handle from the driver side on new F-150s.
To clarify, I'm looking for an ecoboost, 157in wheelbase S-Crew, 3.55 rear and most amenities sans leather. I don't want the chrome deal because of the bars and that I can't be showing up on a farm looking like a rap star with self control issues... Some chrome is ok, but for crying out loud, who thought this package was a good idea?
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Sirius antenna mounting locations. I first mounted on the front dash, in the center using the supplied small metal plate, right next to the GPS antenna. Well that looked ok but the reception wasn't great, in fact, I would lose reception, that's not a good thing, lol. So I moved the Sirius antenna to the left corner of the dash, up as close to the windshield that I could, reception was LOTS better, but I could see that depending on direction of travel the signal would get weaker, but not losing completely. So I moved it to the center of the dash, in the center up against the windshield, with a small piece of two way tape. The signal is now strong and haven't lost signal yet.
Here's a few pix:
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what does the front and rear sway bars do? how about the front lower tie bars? are they worth getting? i saw them on sale and i wasn't sure exactly what they did.
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I just purchased a 50 inch straight light bar it is 5D so just mainly projection focused spot beam, mounting one towards the back end of the roof? what to be used to mount it and how ? Also driving in the snow should not be an issue because it is a projection Focus being but if you have mounted one and driven in the snow.
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So lately I've been noticing that it takes a really long time for my water temp bars (on the dash) to go down to 0. At first I noticed this during the same time I discovered I had coolant leaking from the valley plate. I took the car in and had that sealed + fresh coolant added, but I'm still noticing that it's takes a really long time for the coolant to cool down, and I'm talking about leaving the car untouched for 3 or 4 hours, and the bar is still half way at operating temps, meanwhile the oil bar is completely at 0.
It hasn't been hot at all in SoCal lately, so I don't think this is attributable to weather. I checked the surrounding of the radiator and there doesn't seem to be a buildup of gunk that decreased air flow. During normal drives on city and highway, the temps are completely fine and don't seem to exceed the normal operating temp.
At this point I'm wondering if there's an issue with other supporting components like the temp. sensor, radiator ran, maybe the water pump?
Other relevant info: MY2011, 67k on the odometer.
Recent leak at valley plate, was resealed and fresh coolant added
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Had a Gen 2 years ago, first time with a Gen 3. Specs: 2011 Prius Two, not II, CPO'd with 83k miles. I've been experiencing this phenomenon for the past couple of days. I would park the car with 6 or 7 bars, but after 8-10 hours of parking it would power up with only 2 bars, or it would power up with 4-5 bars and quickly go down to 2 cars before it charges back up to 6-7 bars. I called the dealer and the SA tells me it's normal. I know for a fact my Gen 2 didn't and my TCH didn't. So is this something I should be concerned about or is this normal for the Gen 3?
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We just got through changing out the 12 volt battery. Car is 2009 and had 60k miles but last summer was a killer hot summer in Texas. The care was doing strange things with the first start of the day with the triangle! coming on and then having to turn off the car and power back on to get it to go. So all posts seemed to indicate bad battery. We checked diagnostics and it was showing 9 volts. So now it is changed, diagnostics shows 12 volts but the gas indicator went to nothing. no bars. yesterday it was all bars. I supposed someone could have siphoned off all my gas last night but highly unlikely and too coincidental that it shows that after the battery change. Is there something we need to reset?
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I purchased a new '09 f150 in '09. the truck has been fine except the dash light problem which ford has declined to correct. In low light i have no dash lights. it must be completely dark for the lights to work.
Last fall I drove a windy 2 lane secondary road at dusk without dash lights. I could not read the gauges. I did not know how fast i was traveling. This road has several tight corners.
The truck is powerful, accelerates quickly and weighs about 6,000 lbs. this is a very dangerous situation!! I have been to the dealership several times and phoned the ford customer service but to no avail!! Fords response is 'they're all like this'!!!!!!!!!!!??
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My 09 F150 Platinum 4x2 used to get 15 mpg city regularly. One day while driving the wrench light popped up and i was in limp mode. I parked the truck and went to my scheduled squadron PT like a good troop is supposed to do. Anyway, finished and the truck has been fine, Ford dealer finds no issues at all with it. My gripe is now i get 12 MPG since the issue and I told them my MPG has gotten worse since it happened. What it could be?
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Looking putting on a Putco lightbar on my 2014 Supercrew. It seems I don't have a good surface on the right side the sheet metal has some type to bulge and a rectangle hole.
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At what point does it go off? Mine went off tonight, after about 15 miles on the road, the ambient temp is 60 degrees cooler than when the tires last got air (it was 40 degrees on the drive home).
None of the tires look low. If it had been on at the start, I could understand due to the cooler air, but it was after a few miles and the tires had warmed up some I am sure. (Two miles later when I stopped at my house, the tires felt warm to the touch, at least, noticeably warmer than ambient air.
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I bought a 2013 f150 last Saturday. It had battery corrosion on the positive side of the battery and on the battery cable end. The dealer agreed to replace the battery and the cable end which they did. Every thing was fine until today when the battery light came on. It stayed on for a few min and then went off. I had the battery and alternator checked at the local parts store. They checked out good. Why a light if everything checks out good?
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I purchased a 150 from 5 months on the lariat model year 2009, until a few days ago everything was ok but then I turned the light on the dashboard - sool service engine - the engine is fine but under a traffic light with the engine idling trygo off .
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Have an issue with their third brake light leaking. The shop priced 275ish to replace/fix leak. I figured a 5 dollar tube of clear OSI would do stop the leak just as well. Any reason why I shouldn't just seal the brake light instead of replace.
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I washed my truck for the first time tonight, and while doing so, I noticed what looks like water got into the third brake light on top of the cab. Is that a common issue and is there an easy fix? I've seen foam inside at the very bottom of the light fixture, it kind of looks like there are two housings though, with the foam in between. I checked the inside headliner, and everything there is dry.
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I bought a certified 09 F150 Platinum a few months ago and after 4 trips to the dealership service department, I continue to have a problem with an intermittent engine light. The 1st time they replaced the o2 sensor. The second time they said a connection was loose to the sensor and repaired that. The 3rd time they replaced the PCM and catalytic converters. The 4th time, they replaced the o2 sensor again saying it was a new part that had been redesigned. When I stopped for fuel on the way home, the light came on again and has cycled on and off ever since.
When I called after the 4th time, the service guy said Ford engineers said I was getting bad fuel. I buy fuel from many places just like everyone else in Florida. I use 87 octane as recommended in the service manual mostly with 10% or less ethanol. The dealership service dept has said they have been working with Ford engineers directly but can't seem to get it fixed. The truck seems to run and perform fine. The only constant predictable thing about the engine light is that it will always turn off after the truck goes through the carwash!
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My 2009 f150 5.4 v8 went from 18 MPG to 13 MPG and the check engine light is on?
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So, I get back from vacay and find my baby has a new issue.... the "battery" light came on just after I started it up after my 10 days away.
I can drive it seemingly ok, it did do some cool flashing and lost display and radio on one trip but now it seems not as bad.
I did a volt meter chack on the batt terminals and have 12.3 or 12.4 with key off and 14.9 with engine running. I turned on the headlights and rear defroster and get 14.6V on the terminals. 21.6A running to the main fuse block right by the rad,
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