Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Exhaust Leak At Manifold Collector?
Aug 17, 2014
I currently own a 2009 F-150 XLT, ext. cab, 4X4, 4.6l, 6R80 trans. Surprise, Surprise I have just developed an exhaust leak at the manifold collector. After some careful investigation, I separated the pipe from the manifold and the sealing surface is totally rotted away. I cleaned it up as best as I could and slathered some muffler cement inside the joint to seal the leak. It is about 80% better but will get worse again I'm sure.
I visited my local Ford dealer and talked to a friend I have working there and he said Ford has known about quality issues with manifolds for years and he was surprised that the manifolds lasted 70k miles.
I am hoping to use the truck as is through the winter and in the spring I am going to install these headers:JBA Headers - Reviews on JBA Cat4ward Exhaust Headers - Stainless, Ceramic & Chrome Finishes
This intake:K&N 63 Series AirCharger High Flow Cold Air Intake Kits Best Price & Reviews
This tuner:Bully Dog Triple Dog GT Tuner (49-State Legal) - Bully Dog GT Tuner Reviews on Gas Programs for Dodge, Chevy, Ford & Nissan Trucks
I already installed a Flowmaster American thunder catback exhaust system about a year ago...
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I was checking the oil in my truck yesterday. I noticed the passenger side exhaust manifold was flaking rust. I mean flaking bad, big chunks coming off. Even the heat shield was rusted bad enough that it is barely holding on. Looks like in a couple years will need replaced. I have never seen this on my other Fords.
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I have lots of info these manifolds. Have gone through four including both sides twice. This last time it seems the manifold has a crusty residue on the inside. The mechanic says it may be a bad head gasket.
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If you have a coolant leak at the y hose for the intake manifold and the thermostat, make sure you replace the upper radiator hose as well as the y hose.
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I have a 90 bronco with a efi 351w and im missing one nut for the manifold to exhaust pipe flange. I have looked all over the net and can't find the size I know its a 1/2in socket but I need the thread pitch and size, had the parts guy try to sell me the stud and nut kit seem really expensive for just a nut and to install the full kit I have to pull skid plates and the trany supports just to start to get room to do the job, seems like a lot of work to replace 1 nut...
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I have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
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My truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
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My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
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I have had an exhaust leak under the hood of my 09' F150, XLT, 4.6 3V for some time now and decided to get it checked out. I took to the local stealer and as i suspected its the manifolds. There are 4 studs on the left and one stud on the right sheared off. Ford quoted $1400 for replacing both mainfolds and extracting the broken studs. This would give me the exact same manifolds that were on the truck from the factory and started leaking at 78,000 miles.
So I decided to take the truck to a local speed shop that I have used in the past for other things. The mechanic there said to just buy a high quality set of stainless headers, stage 8 locking fasteners, and copper gaskets. He will install. I went with JBA shortys from AutoAnything.com and the mentioned hardware from Jegs.
So basically for around $100 more I get headers that probably will last the life of the truck. I am quite displeased with the exhaust issues that Ford has had and known about for over 20 years. The service manager at Ford said they replace manifolds with broken studs on a regular basis. He also said it was a wise choice to go with the headers instead of the manifolds even though they will not install them. That says a lot about the confidence of the Ford service department in their parts and vehicle designs.
Its a little sad that a 6 year old truck with only 78,000 miles....
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So after remotely starting my truck on a cold morning, I walk up to the vehicle and notice a small puddle of water near the middle of the truck (not near the engine where the A/C usually drips), and I can also hear a slight ticking noise that I never heard before. I stoop down and can see water dripping from the exhaust (I think off the back of the resonator?). I snap a few pics and decide I'll take a closer look later, but curiously when I return from my drive, the leak and noise are gone.
With 76K miles on the truck, is it possible I've developed a pinhole sized perforation or leak in the factory exhaust system (or maybe there's a loose fitting) that is only present when the engine is cold, but "seals" itself up once the engine is warm and the metal has expanded? I only see the water puddle and hear the noise when remotely starting the truck on cold mornings, never on warm days or after driving around town.
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5.0 coyote exhaust leak .. Since the cold weather has arrived i have noticed a new noise. During cold start engine warm up I hear a nice little tick-tick-tick which sounds to me like an exhaust leak. Is this a common problem? I have just over 58,000 miles would this be covered under powertrain or do they have some nice exclusions for exhaust?
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So I think I have possible manifold leak in my exhaust and its because when the engine is super cold, and I do have a straight pipe, but it sounds like a tractor... until it warms up after few minutes, it goes away.
My exhaust manifolds are rusted to crap and stuff is falling off, paint or whatever there was on them.
Now I've looked at bunch of videos on UT to get a better understanding since everyone says the nuts and studs are hard to remove or snap.
Now my question to anyone who's done this in their garage; I've seen bunch of videos where the stud snaps flush, then he takes a nut, puts it over the hole, holds it up with needle pliers and uses a MIG to start welding it... stud to nut... then puts a wrench and off it goes.
Now, I'm not a pro welder or anything so is it possible to by accident weld the stud, nut into the head and then never ever be able to undo or take either one out?? or is the head or whatever made from different material that won't get welded to the nut or the stud??
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Truck has 107 thousand miles; had to take it in for an manifold exhaust leak. Mechanic said bolts are so rusted they break.
1) was there ever a ALERT from ford about these bolt's?
2) Thought i read ford had stainless bolts for this problem...
I've had F150's only since the mid 70's and this 04 has cost me more in repairs than ANY previous F150..
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I own a e1999 Ford F350 7.3 4x4 with a Garrett GTP38R turbo. I have been having issues with very little power and pulled an CEL of P0221. I know it's for the APS and have been trying to trouble shoot it as a new APS has not fixed the problem. However, while working on that I just noticed an oil leak appear. I tracked it down and can visibly see it leaking out the top of the passenger side exhaust manifold in two places. It is seeping out the top. Is oil supposed to even be running through here like that?
I recently replaced my up pipes with the newer style bellowed ones. While I had the turbo off I replaced all the o-rings top and bottom and did the EBPV delete on the pedestal. I have been having very little power and cannot the truck over 5-10 MPH and stays at low RPM's so I originally thought it was the leaky up pipes. Those were fixed along with fuel pressure checks which came back good. I then pulled the P0221 code finally. While I had the turbo off I inspected it and it did spin freely and had no side to side play in it.
What was unusual to me was there was a small pooling of oil in the turbo when I took it off. I know the CCV goes through here so some oil is normal. Also, when I was diagnosing the up pipe leak I could see a small amount of oil spraying out the blown donut gasket along with the exhaust gases. I don't think that is normal.
Is there an internal seal in the turbo that can go bad causing oil to spill into my exhaust and possibly leak at the exhaust manifold? Or do I have an internal oil leak from somewhere else?
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2004 SCrew, FX4, 5.4 ... I had the dreaded exhaust manifold leak on the passenger side. After reading the horror stories of this repair and living in the rust belt I decided against fixing it myself. I took it to a local repair shop to have done. Initially the mechanic could see that the front 2 studs were snapped off (before even trying to remove them).
After a full day of fighting the studs (engine loose & lifted up) everything is out but the front 2 studs. the top one has about 1/2" exposed, but it is frozen in place (penetrate on it overnight). The biggest problem is the bottom stud. it is broken off about 1/8" below the surface of the head. The guy doesnt have a small enough right angle drill to get between the frame & head to attempt to drill it out. I will gladly go buy a drill for him to do this, as it will likely save me money if it will work to drill out the stud.
Need to get the 2 studs out, particularly the bottom one, or what right angle drill may fit in there?
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2000 excursion, 4X4, V10
A few days after the job was completed I noticed that the top stud on the driver's side closest to the firewall has signs of oil leaking from inside the hole. This is a hole that I had to drill and insert an 8mm Heli-coil. I was very careful on the depth of the hole I drilled. I tried removing the bolt and placing JB Weld high temperature epoxy into the hole and reinstalled the bolt. I waited over 24 hours for the epoxy to cure and then I checked for leaks. The leak re-appeared but has slowed down quite a bit. I have a USB endoscope that I will be using to inspect the inside of the hole to see if I can see where the leak is actually coming from. I am in no position to replace the head but I will do whatever it takes to get the truck back into service.
After 7 days in my garage, I finally removed/replaced all 20 manifold studs. I had to cut off all of the nuts to remove the manifolds. I was able to remove 17 out of 20 studs by using a 6 inch pipe wrench and a lot of coaxing. 3 of the studs were already snapped off inside the head. I drilled out two and was able to get them tapped for a Heli-coil. The third stud I broke a 1/8" cobalt drill bit inside and it took 4 days to get enough of the hole drilled out to get a Heli-coil inserted.
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The exhaust leak is not too horrible, but, enough that I need to address it soon. Only on the driver's side; (today).
I'm planning on having a lot of PB blaster on hand, torch, broken stud removers, screw/stud extractors (easy outs), ...a hammer. Maybe a few cold Budweisers
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I purchased my 2008 Explorer Ltd about 4 months ago with a 4.6L and 63k miles. I use it for towing a small travel trailer, so I don't put many miles on it. It's got about 66k on it now. According to OASIS, it has had all MFR maintenance performed up to the 60k mark.
In the past two months, it has developed a "sound" on startup. it goes away after about 75 seconds. To me it sounds like a typical exh manifold leak. That "3 cylinder, putt putt putt tractor" sound. There is no apparent affect on performance. It is definitely coming from the area of cyl #1. I have a recording here.
[URL]....
It is the "higher" of the sounds. The lower pulsing/whooshing is just regular engine noise. You can hear the regular engine noise as the camera pans to the back of the car.
What puzzles me is that the exh manifold sound goes away after 75 seconds or so. Holding the tailpipe shut for a bit builds up lots of pressure quickly. Do you think it IS, in fact, an exh manifold leak, and it seals up with thermal expansion as the engine worms up (75 seconds)? Is this a typical issue with the 4.6L
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I've got a 2006 F250 5.4l. Recently Ive had an issue when I am driving, usually when the engine is at 3k+ RPMs, where the engine will lose power and the cel with blink. Usually it only takes a few seconds for the blinking to stop and the engine continues as normal. Now, I know that at least one of my exhaust manifolds are leaking.
Could it be that the engine is not receiving enough back pressure and that is causing it to lose power? I had a similar issue last year, basically the same symptoms, and it turned out that I had two cylinders misfiring. I replaced the coil packs and that fixed it. This time there are no codes referring to a cylinder misfire. There is a code for EVAP leak (I think), but I was told it was nothing to worry about.
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is there a set of headers for my 2008 f250 5.4 rwd that will install somewhat easily without me throwing tools across the garage? I see a lot more options for the older trucks. I have a pretty annoying exhaust manifold leak and I figure I might as well throw some headers on if im gonna be in there. I really want to go for sound rather than power. I think I saw a set by flowmaster that looked decent.
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2003 F350 short bed 6.8L V10---On start up a slight tap sound, almost like a cranky lifter, but it is an exhaust manifold leak. At the bolts, I am not sure. This has been this way for 5 years, no better no worse. After I run about 2 to 3 minutes it seals itself. Not a hint of noise. Due to heat, something is expanding to seal it (aluminum).
At my annual PA. State Safety Inspection the Tech says 'that has to be corrected if it worsens', but It does not fail inspection. This puzzles me.
How is the call made for correction. A flip of the coin, a guess and is it serious enough to fail inspection. Is this normal with the 6.8L or V10s. I know the cost involved for a fix is big league, but can it be justified. TRUCK RUNS GREAT !---
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