Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Engine Loses All Power And Won't Respond To The Accelerator
Jun 24, 2014
Engine disengages and won't respond to accelerator after starting from a stop. Truck begins to move forward 20 to 100 ft then the engine loses all power and won't respond to the accelerator.
Tach drops all the way down and the truck stops. Sometimes anywhere from 10 to 30 seconds it will reengage, rpms up and start accelerating. Other times I have to shift into park then the engine reengages.
Usually occurs at slow speed in a parking lot, stop light etc but it has also happened accelerating on an on ramp to I12.
1) Dealer checked it and replaced a couple plugs and wire because the code showed one cylinder with occasional misfire. I told them This wasn't misfire.
2) problem continues. Dealer finds no codes and drives it 35 miles in a week wo occurring. It happens again next day to me.
3) Dealer puts diagnostic capture with red button to push when it occurs. Will hold data for four events. One occurs as I pull out onto the highway in front of dealership. Roll backwards down hill into dealership lot so auto transmission must be disengaged. Put in park and engine renegades. Happens again after 20 ft. Dealer finds no codes and all data appears normal.
4) dealer tech drives it do another week. 75 miles. Nothing. Take it home Friday and it happens Saturday pulling from a stop sign in the middle of the intersection. Pump with no response for ten seconds then both engine and transmission eventually reengage.
Happens hot or cold. I typically drive with a light touch because a fast candy apple red super crew with a loud exhaust tends to draw attention from those with badges! Leaving work in the evening is like playing frogger and I don't want to be road kill!
2011 f150 SCrew Platinum 5.0 v8 auto
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When I press slightly on the accelerator just to get the truck moving and than let off the engine stays at the higher RPM typically just over a 1000. This only happens in drive not reverse and everytime I just slightly step on the accelerator. The truck only has 1K miles on it.
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Recently on two occasions I pressed the accelerator clear to the floor with no response. After shifting into Park then back into Drive it drove normally for about a week. Now it has stalled out and was very stubborn to restart. Once running, the accelerator will sluggishly rev the engine while in Park, but in Drive, will not respond. TPS sensor or something else?
2004 6.0 Diesel, 75K miles, no mods, well maintained.
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My husband and I bought a 09 f-250 with 58000 miles. It used to pull our travel trailer with no power issues. Now the rpms go up & the power goes down. It never gets hot nor any lights come on. It's been in the shop twice. The first time nothing was found. The second time we were told it was dirty fuel filters. The truck only has 70k miles...
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Just a note to mention that last Friday my fiance was driving her'13 F150 with Ecoboost (73,000 mi) and heard a "loud" pop when accelerating then engine lost power. She called me so I had her restart it and all seemed fine- but drove 1/2 mile and same thing. Called Ford roadside service- got a tow within 30 min to dealer down road.
Turns out they had to replace the throttle body. Fortunately I have the Ford Extended Warranty thru 125,000. This was the second significant failure for the truck- first was a leaking A/C Evaporator which required pulling the entire dash. I won't keep this truck beyond the extended warranty.
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I took delivery of my 2012 FX4 Eco in January and about a month or so later I began experiencing a loss of power and the check engine light would come on then go off again. This happened the first time in Houston traffic one day so I was pretty concerned needless to say but then it cleared itself shortly thereafter. However, heading back home it occurred again on the highway while I was trying to pass and she just didn't have the power. I took it to a Houston dealer late in the afternoon before I left but no codes were found and when I got it back to my local dealer it was determined the left side catalytic converter was bad and it was subsequently replaced. Well, it happened again and it's back in the shop while I am offshore so they have plenty of time to take care of it.
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This happened twice this month and each time was after driving and then turning car off to go into a restaurant to grab food real quick. Start car up back out, put car in drive and before getting out of lot loss of power followed by car stalling and only battery indicator comes on. Car starts right back up and seems to run fine. No CEL.....? I'm assuming I cannot scan car if no cel is on. I was thinking cam position sensor or fuel pump. I'm about ~1100 mi over for oil change which I am getting Monday.
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I checked a few fuses when my 12v power sources quit working and now the engine won't start. I get a start system fault and hill incline fault among other warnings. What happened?
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My 2009 , 1.8 Corolla gets terrible gas mileage. 23 city (lowest was 12), best ever was 30 highway. I have approx 14K on the odo because the MPG makes me want to leave at home.
The MPG has been verified in writing by 2 different dealers, so I do not consider myself the problem. I drive conservatively and calculate MPG based on actual miles / gallons. Toyota Corp did not bother to fix this issue. It has been serviced regularly and had whatever fixes Toyota offered.
What I think is causing my terrible mileage is some glitch in an engine sensor that causes it to rev from 900 to 1100 RPM when I take my foot off the accelerator and attempt to coast. The revs go down when I press the brake. This happens constantly, especially at around 25 MPH. If I do not brake, the car will pull for a while without slowing down like normal cars.
I showed my Toyota dealers but they all said nothing is wrong. My Corolla even went up a slight hill without my foot near the accelerator. One tech told me the Corolla is burning off extra fuel, but my car will pull itself for over 1/2 mile, too much time for "burning". Something IS wrong. I have driven dozens of vehicles and never had one jump like this. Where to start diagnosing?
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 213,000 miles. Manual tranny, 2wd. It is my daily driver.
No issues until 2 weeks ago I pulled out and began shift gears when the engine died and I completely lose pedal. The engine does not shut off it goes to idle and the lights and power are fine but I quickly lose acceleration. After a couple seconds and a few pumps on the pedal it comes back. The problem is intermittant. Until yesterday it was only in the morning but then happened on the way home from work. Thinking ti was water in the fuel I used an additive to cure the water.
I changed the fuel filter just after I bought it in April of this year. I know there is a Injector Pressure Sensor that could be the culprit. EGR?
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My 740 GL has recently developed a strange problem. Regardless of speed, whenever I push the accelerator to near wide open throttle or WOT, the engine loses power. It idles down to about 1000 rpm and will not respond until I pull over, turn off, and restart. It doesn't exhibit this behavior when in park. The car runs great otherwise (85+ mph) as long as I don't get close to WOT. I replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap, coil, and fuel filter.
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My 3.5 intrigue seems to stumble while driving it. It feels as it the engine is stumbling or loses power for less than a second and it will do this a few times in a row and will be fine for awhile and then repeat itself.
This can happen while cruising, slow acceleration or at a stop light. I don't really notice it under harder acceleration. When it does happen i do notice that the rpm's drop a very slight bit.
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Turns out the crank shaft position sensor only fixed the cars ability to start and stop and did not cure the acceleration issue. What happens? The symptoms occur during the following conditions.
1. Hard acceleration
2. Going up hills
3. With heavy loads
Basically the car loses power and sounds like it is getting muffled. Then it just picks up rapidly and takes off.I have tested out the throttle position sensor and it checks out fine. The car never completely stops.If I feather the throttle, it picks up and keeps moving forward.
Haven't tried the EGR valve, fuel filter or fuel pump.
Strange thing though.The car was sitting for about two months until I replaced the crank shaft position sensor. Then it started up fine, and ran without problems.The tank went low, and I filled it with gas.AFter that, the car started having problems. The only thing I can think of is two things.
1. When I filled it up is raised sediment and somehow clogged something.
2. The excessive pressure in the tank is causing issues.
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I have a 2006 F250 King Ranch 6.0. At approx 45-50 mph when holding accelerator steady, there is a slight jerking like the engine is missing like the old gassers used to do. What could cause this? Have a ScangaugeII and doesn't show anything out of the ordinary!
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1998 discovery. Replaced fuel pump, crank shaft sensor, battery is good, had tune -up. Driving on highway and car just loses engine power, still have radio, lights, etc. Pull over and start it right back up. Drive about 15 minutes more and it happens again. Starts again. Then it does it again, but now won't start. Clicking sound in dash on passenger side. I leave it sit for 2 days. Starts right up, then rpms start revving then stops and dies. I have had every diagnostic known run, no codes coming up. I have had local mechanic keep it for days to drive it. He is also at a loss. I am REALLY tired of replacing random parts to no avail. Not to mention the $$ I have spent.
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I have a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3l with 199,980 miles on it.
It has a TS-6. My first problem is that when I come to a stop or slow down to a crawl then press the accelerator the engine stalls and dies. I have looked and looked at threads and can not find this example anywhere. There is no pressing the pedal and it remains at idle. It dies, shuts off, quiets. I have thought icp, tps, ivs
Second problem is that a/c is blowing hot. Other than being out of Freon, what could be other things to check. It does sometime go to default, but has done so in awhile. It does not blow cold in rear and hot in front. They both blow hot. I have replaced the pvh sensor.
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Driving down the road today and all of a sudden the car loses power, starts vibrating and the Check VSC and Check Engine lights came on. I pulled off the highway and got the car stopped and engine shut off. I let it sit for about 5 minutes and started it up and all warning lights went off and I was able to drive the car home with no adverse effects. Seems to be running normal now. Searched the archives and saw numerous posts about a loose gas cap, but this was something far more serious.
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My wife's 2010 Corolla has an issue where the key fob will open the truck and all the doors except the front driver door. Is this a common issue with the Corolla? What are the potential fixes?
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Recently I've been noticing a gas smell after parking my car after the drive home from work, but engine performance and mileage efficiency didn't seem affected, and I found no visible evidence of leaking on the ground (nor in the engine, but I likely don't know the right places to look).
Today, with the engine running, I looked around the engine to see if I could locate any gas leakage -- I located the fuel pressure regulator (I think; a golf-ball sized acorn on the right of the engine with a hose coming in the top and a pipe coming out the bottom and going down and to the left) and didn't see any leaking during my brief test. I'll check it again after my drive home tonight.
One new thing I did discover, though; while in park, when I slowly pressed on the accelerator, there would be a point where the engine started losing power and going into a rev/slowdown cycle: about a second or two of revving, then a half second of slowing down. This was while cold and in park; I've not experienced this in normal driving.
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I have a 1997 F350 5.8 2wd dually with 110,000 miles. Lately the automatic transmission has been acting funny. If I'm cruising along, sometimes the drive gear isn't there. The engine accelerates, but the transmission doesn't respond. If I downshift, I have the lower gears. Sometimes, if I shift into 2nd and then back into drive, it's fine.
Other times when this occurs is when I'm cruising along in Drive and hit a bump, I suddenly get nothing and have to downshift. Sometimes drive gear will re-engage if I stop and put the transmission in park and then into drive.
Today, I was at a hardware store and when I came back out, my truck had moved about 10ft. The Transmission was in park and the truck was on a flat surface. The parking lot had a slight drain slope to it, but nothing steep at all. The gear selector still indicated Park, but when I turned the key, I had nothing. I bumped the shift lever up further and the truck started.
Just wondering if my transmission is slipping or if its a linkage problem. Any clues?
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I pushed the accelerator all the way to the floor at 30 MPH and the engine lost almost all power? As soon as I let up to about 9/10 throttle everything reverted to normal. Took it to the dealer and it showed no codes. The Tech and I took it for a road test and it did it only one more time. He said to keep an eye on it but was baffled. I tested it later in the sport drive mode and it would bog down every time if pushed hard to floor at about 30mph.
My best guess is that I got some bad regular low octane gasoline and the ECM is sensing a knock and retarding the timing or cutting off fuel flow similar to over revving condition. I will fill it up with 93 Octane Premium next time I get fuel and se what happens. Usually runs fine on 87 Octane but most of the time I don't floorboard the accelerator pedal. As I said at 9/10 throttle it runs fine.
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