Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Engine All Of A Sudden Died In The Process Of Slowing Down
Aug 17, 2012
So last night I was on a 55 MPH road that has a gradual right curve, that ends up at a stop sign in a T intersection of a major highway. I was in the process of slowing down when the engine all of a sudden died. Then the brakes and steering went as stiff as can be. I made the curve and was able to stop at a semi decent location. After checking my shorts. I tried to restart it and it would only run a few seconds with rpm's jumping all over the place. the check oil light would flash and then the engine would die.
I was able to get it to move like 20 feet to the side of the road. The major problem is the bumper to bumper warranty was up 6 months ago. So I just had it towed home. Now it's time to figure out what exactly is wrong with it. I tried to borrow a code reader from the local parts store. But none of the ones by me will lend them out anymore. This is also my only vehicle for the time being. I have had the vehicle since feb of 2009. It is a 4.6L 3v engine and only has 27000 miles on it. I have read a few things online about them stalling.
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Last winter I had a moaning sound in my front end when slowing down to a stop when the temps were around the freezing mark. When it would happen, sometimes i would engage the 4WD and it would go away, and come right back when disengaging the 4WD. I took it to my dealer and Ford's procedure was to re-pack the front wheel bearings. When I got the truck back the weather warmed up and the moaning didn't come back. When this winter started and the cold weather came back, so did the moaning in the front end when slowing to a stop.
I took it back to my dealer again, and this time they checked what I suspected all along, the IWE's for the 4WD (the integrated wheel ends). the seals were cracked, letting moisture and rust formation inside of them. After the IWE replacement, the moaning noise went away. My research has found that this problem goes back to around 2004 on up. If has these symptoms with the 4WD truck in the cold weather, have your mechanic check out the Integrated Wheel Ends. By the way, my oldest son is the Ford tech that performed the repair on my truck, so it was in his best interest that my truck was fixed .
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Well it's been 300 miles since Ford applied their "special grease" and put on clamps to eliminate the clunk when slowing and the slipping feeling at take off. Now the clunk is back. Every time at 25 it downshifts and clunks, then once again at 10. Drives me nuts. My service advisor wants me to "log" these visits so we can be more aggressive with Ford to get this resolved. I love the truck, but this is annoying driveline slop. Almost like the splines weren't cut right and Ford is using heavy grease to fill the gaps......developing...
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Recently my '11 supercab suddenly downshifted from 6th to 3rd while rolling along easily at about 50mph at the bottom of a very slight downgrade. It has done this 3 times now and takes me totally by surprise every time. I have an appointment next week to get it looked at, but my dealer is about 225 miles away and it's a real pain to take it in.
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I have had a few times when my 2013 Chevy Traverse LT suddenly jumped to a low gear while quickly slowing down, causing the RPMs to jump up to 4-5000 RPMs. It remains in that gear until I am practically stopped. Is this normal?
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I really want to put Viper into my car, the remote start and security system. I was thinking about putting in the 5901 or 5704 in, is there a difference?
Should I get the extra accessories like the audio sensor and tilt sensor? And I'll probably need a transponder bypass module with it too?
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So about 3 days ago I made a long 9 hour drive. No problems at all but I did allow my fuel to get a little lower then I normally do. About eighth a tank had 30 miles left on the digital read out. Stopped and filled up at loves where I always get my fuel. And off I went drove it down to 3/4 a tank and made it to my stopping point. Got in to go about 7 miles down the road and come to a stop sign and slowing down the truck died. I thought crap I forgot to turn off the auto start but never done that before. Stopped and stared truck as normal. Made it to my stopping point again. Headed back to the house and doing on average 55mph and truck surges like it wants to die but doesn't.
Rpms drop below 500 and it keeps going I get to same stop sign and slowing down again doing maybe 25ish and truck dies again as I have my foot on the break. Put in nut and started it right up and drive on home. Today went about same distance. Only this time I started it with key and was doing down other things while letting it run it just dies start it back up and take off get to where I was going and it surged or hiccuped so to say. Again started it once I was getting ready to leave and let it run for about 5 min and it died had the heater on as it was chilly out by the lake. Got in and restarted it and it was blowing cold air and had a diesel smell to it. Wife asked me if truck was going to blow up. Backed out of area and put in drive and made it 80' or so and truck died again doing about 10mph
Checked so far
Batteries checked and both are good
No mods done to it
New ICP sensor and pigtail
New water pump
New injectors 20k miles ago
Oil changed 1100 miles ago
New filters upper sad lower
2003 Ford F-250 King Ranch 6.0
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Having issues with the fuel injectors on the 2014 IS250? Gas was pouring out of the top of the engine all of a sudden? Lexus is stating they have never heard of this before and its numbers 6 and 8 that had a manufacture issue.
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My daughters boyfriend was driving his 98 Expedition this evening and it died. From what he is telling me, he said it just all of a sudden lost power. As he was coasting to the side of the road, he said the RPMs where fluctuating then died. It cranks but won't start. No "theft" light flashing. All fuses under the hood are good. Turning the key, can not hear the fuel pump pressurizing.
No pressure at the Schroeder valve on the fuel line. While trouble shooting, found where someone had done a hack job of splicing the ground battery cable, wire was just folded over to hold together. As we were towing it home, they said there was a beeping coming from behind the glove box, which is where the PCM is I think. Kinda stuck on whether it could be PCM or fuel pump.
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I was driving my 85 2.3 liter down the road and it died all of a sudden like and wont start back up. I took out a plug to check for spark and had someone turn it over and I touched it to the big metal part the grill connects to at the top but I got nothing. It IS getting gas. The spark plug was white as if it was really hot and rough-looking for its relative newness. I bought a new distributor cap because it was corroded, but it didnt work. They tested the ignition module at the store and its good, so I am thinking distributor?? Also, could compression issues keep it from sparking? I am a little worried it got over-heated somehow, but don't know....
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I have a 1989 F250 4x4 with a 1990 460 EFI under the hood. As I was driving All of the sudden as i finished turning a corner the truck died. No Spudder like it ran out of fuel but more like someone had turned the key off.
I tried to restart it but i kept it short i was near other houses and it was 3am in the morning. On my way to work, I popped the hood, thinking okay we had a bad rain storm. Moisture in the Cap and rotor. Well went to pop it off Distributor is lose, oh joy. But the cap was dry but i did take out the rotor to clean the tip off and the cap too.. Still nothing when I tried to start it again.
I am getting ready to check for spark from the coil *hoping it just a lose coil wire*.. But would the Computer taking a vacation for life cause this.?
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Yesterday, my wife said she tried to turn the fan control knob from 2 to 3, but there was some resistance. She turned it off, and when she tried to turn it back on, nothing happened. The fan control knob turns as it should, but no fan is blowing, and therefore, no AC. Also, we noticed after dark that the lights inside the HVAC control unit had also died. I was thinking fuse, but checked all fuses related to HVAC and dash lighting and they were all OK.
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My 2003 Jeep Cherokee totally died all of a sudden. No lights, no locks, nothing. I am skeptical that its the battery because of how sudden this happened.
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We purchased a certified pre-owned 2009 Toyota Matrix (S--AWD) in January 2012, with approx 17K miles (a lease turn in). We purchased a platinum vehicle service plan that covers the car through 2017 or 100K miles. We had the oil changed at 22K miles (May 2012) per the recommended 5K miles at a private garage, not a Toyota dealer. This place had done work on my previous vehicle, a 1994 Corolla, for 6 years and had proven to be reliable and trustworthy, in my opinion.
Last Friday, my husband was driving our daughter to daycare, and 5 miles from our home, the oil and engine lights came on in close succession, and the engine seized and died. We had roadside assistance through the warranty, and it was towed to the nearest Toyota dealer, which is not the one we purchased the vehicle at. They informed me that the car had no oil filter and that therefore nothing that happened to the car was covered under warranty, and said it was clearly the fault of whomever had changed the oil.
Problem: The oil had been changed 4 months, and 4K miles before this happened.Problem: There is no evidence of an oil leak in our garage, our driveway, the driveway at my workplace: There is no evidence of a catastrophic oil dump along the 5 mile route before the car died: We cannot find an oil filter along this path either, we have been along it on bicycle looking in the weeds
So the car was in our garage with no oil leaking at 6:45 am, and somehow ended up out of oil, with no filter, in 5 miles, by 7 am. The car had been driving fine--I am the one who usually drives it. I actually drove it 80 miles on Tuesday b.c I had forgotten my laptop at home and had to make the trip to and from work twice (22 miles one way). Then my husband had Weds-Fri off and it was driven 12 miles to and from daycare on Weds and Thurs, and the 5 miles on Friday before it died. No lights were on when I drove it Tuesday, and he says no lights were on before the point that it died.
The guy who changed the oil says the he cannot see how they are at fault, b.c there is no way the car could go so far and so long with an improperly installed filter (it is the screw in style filter, not a cartridge), and that if it were loose, as soon as the seal was broken, oil would spray everywhere. He went and looked at the car at the dealer, and looked at the spot where the car broke down and said there is not enough oil there. There is about enough in spots that would cover an area around a foot in diameter. Toyota says it could have been a slow leak if it was not screwed on right--but where is the evidence for an oil leak? Shouldn't the oil light have gone off previously if oil was low? The oil change guy says there's no way there would be a slow leak, the oil would have all dumped out and killed the engine long before the filter somehow fell off. He keeps asking me where is the oil, and where is the filter? Which I would love to have the answers to those questions, but I don't. He says unless I can produce the filter to show it is the one he put in, and that it is banged up to show it came off the car, he won't pursue an insurance claim. Toyota says it sounds weird but since he is the last one that touched the car, it's his fault. Right now we are in the middle and it is looking like we are going to be stuck with the bill for a new engine.
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Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
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2000 jetta 1.8t ... Yesterday driving home from work (1.5 hr drive and it was 25+ degrees) my car died on the highway just before I made it home. Just lost power all of a sudden with no warning signs before and no overheating. No lights came on I just felt sudden loss of power and pulled over and turned the ignition off and it wouldn't start again. Just makes a high pitched whining noise and won't crank over. I just found out the other day that both O2 sensors need replacing but I can't see that being the reason.
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I purchased a 150 from 5 months on the lariat model year 2009, until a few days ago everything was ok but then I turned the light on the dashboard - sool service engine - the engine is fine but under a traffic light with the engine idling trygo off .
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I've been chasing this misfire for about two months now. I have changed all eight plugs, changed the coil and even change head gaskets. After all of that I'm still getting a misfire on cyl3 code. I've inspected the resistance from the fuel injectors, they are all about 12ohms. What else do I need to check before I sell this thing off?
Background: It has just under 130k miles and I have had zero problems until it got cold this season. Once the mornings hit about 20F degrees I had a check engine light come on. Maybe a little bit of a shake at first but after it warms up it drives excellent. It has never sounded like there is a misfire, it has always ran smooth.
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I didn't pick up the Raptor--passed on it for other reasons. I still have my 2010 that I bought with an extended warranty--I'm too old to play with them anymore and rather have everything covered.
When I bought my truck it was a factory certified pre-own so I got the 100k warranty plus an extended bumper-bumper coverage.
With that said I have the 5.4L engine and I've noticed here recently that's it is quite sluggish at times. I've read and most say put a tuner on it--in the past I would be all over that. My old 6L Diesel had a tuner but of course during that time I was all for blowing up engines and replacing them. Now not so much.
I noticed that the previous owner threw a damn Airaid intake on it -- I feel like the Airaid is really screwing crap up. I'm wondering if I should just buy the pieces I need to go back to a stock airbox?
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I bought a certified 09 F150 Platinum a few months ago and after 4 trips to the dealership service department, I continue to have a problem with an intermittent engine light. The 1st time they replaced the o2 sensor. The second time they said a connection was loose to the sensor and repaired that. The 3rd time they replaced the PCM and catalytic converters. The 4th time, they replaced the o2 sensor again saying it was a new part that had been redesigned. When I stopped for fuel on the way home, the light came on again and has cycled on and off ever since.
When I called after the 4th time, the service guy said Ford engineers said I was getting bad fuel. I buy fuel from many places just like everyone else in Florida. I use 87 octane as recommended in the service manual mostly with 10% or less ethanol. The dealership service dept has said they have been working with Ford engineers directly but can't seem to get it fixed. The truck seems to run and perform fine. The only constant predictable thing about the engine light is that it will always turn off after the truck goes through the carwash!
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Looking for the average oil consumption on the 5.0L V8 engine.
Dealer service indicated the 5.0L uses oil.
If so, why does this engine consume so much oil.
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