Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Electric Fans Not Kicking On
Jul 13, 2017
2012 F150 FX4 ecoboost electric fans not kicking on. I've checked all the fuses and relays and the are good.
View 5 Replies2012 F150 FX4 ecoboost electric fans not kicking on. I've checked all the fuses and relays and the are good.
View 5 RepliesSo today was the hottest day I've encountered, since purchasing my '13, FX4, EcoBoost. It was 91 degrees out, which I know isn't THAT hot for some parts of the country.
That said, it's the first time since I've owned my '13, EcoBoost that I needed to use A/C all day. One thing I noticed is that the A/C fans are EXTREMELY loud.
The noise outside seems louder than an early 6.0 Powerstroke idling, or say even the 7.3 PSD. Sounds like a 747 taking off.
Is this normal or is something wrong with my truck? If I turn the A/C off, the super loud fan turns off, and the low speed fan for what I assume is the radiator keeps on, but is barely heard.
I don't remember the A/C fan being that loud on my previous truck '11, 5.0, XLT, but it had more equipment, and the engine wasn't as quiet as my EcoBoost now, which is almost silent.
I just got this project running recently (replaced head after timing belt failure) and on the first night I got it running I noticed the electric fan was not kicking in (belt driven fan works fine). Investigated a bit and found the fan was some what seized. I was able to work it free quite easily so I chalked it up to corrosion from sitting.
fired it back up and let her get to operating temp and once again no fan. checked and it spins freely but never comes on. I did some checking and I (visually) cant find the plug, fan switch, or any fuses that deal with it... So I checked the bentley and it talks about a couple relays that have to do with it, but no fuses (at least that Ive found so far). Before I start tearing into wiring diagrams in the back of the bentley, I'm hoping some of y'all might have some input for me. Maybe some common faults, where to look, etc...
Car is a 2000 Passat 1.8T auto. Just had the head swapped due to TB failure which included waterpump, thermostat, fresh coolant, and all new belts.
After about 10-15 minutes, following a cold start, this 2007 BMW X3 3.0 six does the following:
1) automatic cabin fan behaves erratically, jumping back and forth between low and high speeds;
2) cabin air does not heat;
3) electric radiator fans run on high;
4) coolant temp rises to normal, but then will suddenly jump up to full hot.
At this point, driver of course pulls over and shuts off engine. The amazing part is this: the engine can be re-started IMMEDIATELY and all of the above problems vanish instantly. Radiator fans shut off, temp returns to normal, cabin fan works normally, and cabin heat comes on. I'm thinking sticking thermostat, but why does shutting off the car momentarily fix it? Change of water pressure when coolant pump stops running?
My wife's 2009 Ford Flex has an intermittent radiator cooling fan issue. It has dual cooling fans and with the AC on, the passenger side fan runs wide open but the driver side fan doesn't run. With the AC off, neither fan runs even though I let the car idle for a long time to try and get it hot enough to allow the fan(s) to turn on. It doesn't matter if the engine is cold or warm, the passenger side fan runs extremely fast when the AC button is pushed. I've checked all connections and applied some dielectric grease to the connections. I also checked the fuses to the fans. Have to buy the entire dual fan assembly?
View 3 RepliesFirst summer with 2014 Passat. We have been getting close to 90 degree days this early in Summer and I have noticed a sensation that I have not had with almost the first year of ownership.
The last couple of days in stop and go traffic I have noticed that when the Radiator Fans edge up to the fastest cooling speed I can feel a vibration in the steering wheel. It is a strong vibration feeling. I had a friend turn off the car while the fans were going full speed. The largest fan on the drivers side seems to wobble as it cost down from the high speed. I am wondering if these fans can be balanced with counter weights.
I woke up to a dead battery this morning .. And the other day I realized that my climate fans were still running even after the car was completely off.. It's really strange I'm not sure what the issue could be, but not only that! I can adjust to any temp, throw on the a/c and no matter what it's blowing out hot hot hot...
View 4 RepliesIs there anyway to adjust the cabin temperature while the fans are off? I like to drive with the vents open but want to adjust the temps up/down without having to turn on the fans.
View 3 RepliesElectric power steering failing when starting the car and driving right away without warming it up?
My 2009 ISF has recently started doing this occasionally. It was when I started the car for the first time of the day, and pulled away within 10 seconds or so. When I let it "warm up" for a minute I have not had it happen.
But the thing is, I've had the car for a few months and have never had this happen until now. My mechanic plugged it in to the computer and there are no codes up, or in the history.
I have a 2009 Kia Sedona that is in great condition. I noticed an odd thing today. After shutting the car off and letting it sit for an hour or so, I came out to my garage and a heard a weird whirring noise. I couldn't place it at first, but I eventually realized it was coming from the Sedona. The best I am able to locate it is under the rear, near the back axle. It doesn't sound louder on either side of the vehicle.
The noise itself sounds like a small electric motor moving. Almost like in those old movies when a robot would move his arm. It happens anywhere between every 30 - 60 seconds, but not at regular intervals. Right before the noise happens there is a light click, which I'm assuming is a switch that's powering the thing opening.
My electric power steering went out and simultaneously the red power steering light illuminated on the dash. I pulled off the road and turned the car completely off and restarted. Normal steering resumed. I took the to the dealership and they got a code for "Steering Angle Sensor". The mechanic said replacing that would probably not fix the problem and said the whole steering column would need replacing. He said the steering checked out fine and passed all tests while in the shop and did not recommend doing any repair. He said it may never fail again.
A month later I had the same power steering problem happened again and was again able to fix by turning the car off then back on again. I took it to a different dealership for troubleshooting and they said they were not able to communicate with the "power steering control module." They recommended changing the module. I have checked for recalls and contacted GM and they said it is out of warranty. The car has 58000 miles.
I have a 2014 Lexus ES300h. I just started noticing that after 2 to 4 hours after turning the car was turned off, I am finding what sounds like the electric motor running. There is a buzzing sound. I can turn the car back on for a few mins and then back off, the electric buzzing sound goes away.
Since owning the car, I've never found the car buzzing. It sounds like the electric motor is charging the batteries. Do I need to have this checked? I have 28k miles on my car and have never had an issue.
Started a while back and comes and goes. Only commonality I have found is the truck needs to be warmed up for it to happen and usually after a few hours of driving. The downshift from 5th or 6th into fourth, at times, produces anywhere from a light to violent clunk, feels like a typical tranny slip. It will do it while in cruise and it will do it if I don't have the cruise on. Can't figure out if it is going to be a tune issue or hardware.
It does it only downshifting into 4th from 5th or 6th, no other downshifting is a problem and usually the 6th to 4th produces the worst results. At highway speeds that is usually a shift from around 2Krpm to just over 3K rpm (6th to 4th) if it is from 5th it is about 2500 to 3K. Start from a stop and go WOT and there are no issues.
Having it in Tow/Haul or not makes no difference as far as I can tell. IT can do it on one hill and the next time be just fine or do it 2-3 hills in a row. After this last trip it will do it at 9K feet or at 60 feet elevation, didn't make a difference there either.
Another issue that may be hurting the computer is the truck originally came with the 235 tires, it now has 285's and the rear is only 3.31. I plan on going with 265's and maybe still a gear change to 3.73's in the future. I usually only notice this on long trips, first was a 1500mile hauling an ATV, second was last week during a 2500 mile empty. Although I have had it do it a few times locally. I figure those bigger tires can't be good especially with that high of a rear for the management system.
What are some pros/cons you have with yours? Both 5.4 supercabs xlt im looking at just cant decide. The 09 has a overall higher rating but its not to much more.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2011 Corolla LE, about 58k miles. The latest work I did was replace the brake pads, rotate the tires and changed the oil a little over 2 weeks ago. Everything was normal so far. Yesterday I drove for about an hour, again everything was fine, but after stopping at a gas station and starting I have several indicator lights come on.
- Slip indicator, flashing
- TRAC OFF, constant
- ABS, flashing
- Electric power steering warning light, flashes but turns off after about 30 seconds.
I tried my OBD scanner with no luck, but figures since there was no Check Engine light.
Took the family up into Michigan this weekend to go play out on Silver Lake sand dunes and do some camping up there. We towed our 27ft travel trailer which weighs about 6500-7000lbs so its not to terribly heavy. Well on the way up we were hitting some hills and with the heavy traffic the truck was kicking in and out of OD so i shut it off. Was doing good with everything until we came up to a stop light and there was a big puff of smoke that came out from under the truck.
We pulled over into a gas station and looked at. It looked like trans fluid was coming from the front of the bell housing or the little plug at the bottom of the trans towards the front. Couldn't really tell where it was coming from. We let it cool down for about an hour and added a a little fluid to it kept on driving. After that we had no problems with it for the rest of the weekend and that even included the 200 mile trip back home. I left the OD on for the trip back home.
Do you all think the trans is ok and could probably just use a good flush and new coolant or should i take it in somewhere to look at maybe getting it rebuilt? Im gonna add a good trans cooler and gauge to it so i can monitor it a little better. This is all on a 2000 EX v10.
Also, since I have 3.73 gears in this truck and its our dedicated tow rig, would it be wise to swap in some 4.10 or 4.30 gears to support it out a little bit? I know the v10 likes to rev going down the road but want the rest of the truck to last as well. We are looking at getting a bigger camper down the road and want the truck to be able to handle it safely and tow it without struggling as much.
1-My Ex steering is very heavy and some times kicking, I don't have any fluid leaks and my steering shock looks nice and clean, I did check and lubricate the ball joints.
2- how did the big 3 wire upgrade in v10, I need some pictures for grounding wires locations like engine to body, battery to body, chassis to body. Because I got a new 300 amp alternator to juicing my truck stuff and to power up the 3000w power inverter.
3- The engine exhaust fumes is so strong making my eyes burning ← . What I did is new coils pack, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter , cleaned the injectors , checked the exhaust for leaks, cleaned the throttle.
But it's no different, I had this problem sense Day1 .
1999 Explorer XLT V6 4 Door. So my 4WD was randomly kicking in and out to the point that it was intolerable. Don't have the $$$ for a repair, so the mechanic disconnected the plug from the 4wd motor. Now the car is doing all sorts of crazy electrical stuff. Is there a way to more surgically disable the 4wd without the unwanted electrical freak-outs?
View 1 RepliesI sold a buddy of mine my dad's old 1997 Ford Ranger XLT with about 100,000 miles. It passed an inspection and was in good condition. Afterwards we both noticed it had a kicking sound in the transmission as you were cruising with it. It was variable but on average about every 20 mins or so. My buddy thought it was probably due to overfilling with fluid so he had it flushed but the problem still remains. He thinks it gets worse as it heats more. We're not sure what the problem is.
View 4 RepliesI am having issues with the wife's escape and the a/c compressor not kicking on(It will turn on for a split second when first fired up if the a/c is set to on but then turns right back off). I am getting a static pressure on the low side of 120 PSI, I have yet been unable to see what pressure shows when the compressor kicks on for a split second. I have confirmed the compressor relay is good and I don't see any blown fuses or anything else out of place.
View 1 Replies4.6L engine.......Well my A/C isn't working I just found out. The compressor is not kicking on. I checked the charge with my gauges and it is good so I don't think the low limit switch tripped, but I don't have a manual or anything and was wondering which number relay and fuse goes to the A/C compressor.
I also need to know which fuse goes to the power mirrors as well. I downloaded a manual from the ford fleet site, but honestly I haven't gotten around to looking at it. Not home.