Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Driver Side Door Sounds Like Cracked Open When Driving Over Rough Stuff
May 6, 2012
2011 Scab truck when driving over rough stuff drivers side door sounds like its cracked open when its not...never liked clamshell doors wished they would have went with mini doors like Dodge....
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2009 XLT.. rear drivers side door is locked and closed. Master lock button, remote button and keypad all function and make the manual lock rod go up and down as it should. Both the interior and exterior door handles move freely, as if the door were properly locked, but regardless of the lock position neither will open the door.
I dismantled the door from the inside as best I could and can see all cables and rods are intact down to the actuator mechanism. Pretty sure something inside the actuator is messed up, but how do I get the door open to get at the screws needed to remove the actuator?? If I need to pry the actuator apart, what am I looking for (or more acurately, feeling around for) to release the door latch??
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I have a '12 SCAB that when opening the driver door the weatherstrip on the door near the front fender, which seals against the pillar squeaks each time you open and close it. Makes the truck sound 20 years old. It appears the weatherstrip is binding on itself instead of just slipping past. I understand it gets dirty and cleaning it will work, but only for a day or so. I've checked the orientation of the weatherstrip with new trucks and its in the correct position.
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We were coming home today from a 300 mile trip and we were heading into a 40mph head wind. Anyway we start to here a clicking sound in the driver's door like something is blowing around in there. It sounds like a piece of metal hitting on metal or like a small rock blowing around in there. Tick, tick, tick, it about drives me crazy. I have an appointment at the dealer tomorrow and hope it continues for them. Ever have that happen when something is going on with your vehicle and take it to the dealer and it doesn't do it. 2010 Lariat....
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I've just got a 2014 model Hyundai i25 and it has a funny habit. When the driver's door is opened there is a ticking noise (like a light on/off sound). The noise stops when the door is closed. It happens only with the driver's door. This a company car and I checked the others ~ 15. None behaves the same. The local official Hyundai dealer/workshop can't figure it out...
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The driver side door of my 2009 f150 won't lock, not with the remote nor with the button inside the truck,also not when the truck goes over 20 km/h, however the driver side door works perfectly fine....
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I just bought a new to me, '09 F-150 4X4. It is plush on the inside and didn't have too many miles on it. One thing that was lacking in the owners manual or any other material in the owners package was the code to unlock the doors. The local Ford dealer wants to charge to get the code for me. I was told there was a site one could go in the internet, plug in some information about the vehicle and the code would be displayed.
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My drivers side door just started clicking when opening or shutting ...
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got in the truck tonight and she is blowing nothing but cold out the drivers side but the passenger side works as advertised for temp settings. I have been trying to see if there is a self test mode like the earlier year trucks have to see if there is a code. She is dual zone climate/digital so its an EATC if I am not mistaken. I have tried power cycle, pulled and re-installed climate fuse after inspecting. Tried some of the earlier year self test button combinations to no avail. I did notice if I hit defrost a few times after hitting the power and defrost that the temps would go all 00 but I don't know if that is what I am looking for. I probably know my answer which includes tearing out the dash but how to proceed. Bought her with an aftermarket power train warranty so electronics are off the table for warranty. I know the stealership will charge out the rear to fix it too. All signs so far point to a blend door which is not good at all.
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I purchased a new 2011 F-150 Lariat, Ecoboost, SCrew, 4x4 last weekend. I love the truck. It is very comfortable, the Ecoboost has been incredible, and the ride is very nice. I am looking forward to towing my ATVs after I hit 1000 miles.
Yet, I have one problem. I get an incredible amount of wind noise and wind whistle from what appears to be the driver's door. I read other posts about wind noises and wind whistles (e.g., bug shield), but they do do not apply to me.
I'm planning on dropping it off at the dealership this week for them to take a look at.
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I recently acquired a 2011 F150 Platinum. Nice truck! It has the automatic deploying running boards. They're nice but one problem: the driver side board takes about 15-17 seconds to retract after closing the door. This is way too long a time. The passenger side retracts after only 2-4 seconds, which is good. The dealer researched this to see if there is any way to adjust the driver side, but found nothing. I'd like the driver side running board to retract sooner after closing the door, like the passenger side.
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I got my all new Lexus but driver door has been rattle since 400 mile. It's like plastic vibrating and creaking.... I think it's the door panel is making the noise especially on rough road. When it rattles, I can place my hands on and share the vibration, then the noise would be somehow suppressed.
The problem is that I took it to dealer and they, as usual, cannot reproduce the problem! I took down the door panel myself, tightened all screws...and the noise...got worse....
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If I use my remote to unlock my 2013 F150 FX4 it takes two pulls on the door handle to open the door. The first pull doesn't do anything I can notice, then the second one opens the door. Is that the way it's supposed to work?
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Both my rear doors in my 2010 F150 supercrew wont open from the outside. Was wondering, is there was a DIY fix?
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I'm unable to open my trunk door with the remote, using the key, or with the switch on the drivers side door. I am also pretty sure it is not frozen shut. Will I need to switch out the complete latch assembly or just need to wd-40 something? This is for a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan.
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So far I have not been able to get the rear door open on the driver side. I was able to remove the plastic panel so I could see inside. The cable is attached to the handle, but not the latch mechanism at the bottom of the door. I have searched this and other sites and looked for pics on the internet...no luck yet.
Looking for an image of the latch mechanism for the driver barn door ... something that will hopefully show where the cable attaches and/or how I can manually (no cable attached) open the door.
Also, I am having issues with the door ajar light. I am almost certain that this is from the rear of the truck. Is the sensor for door ajar on the hatch, driver barn door, passenger barn door, more than one?
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The driver's side barn door won't open. I took the handle off and the door panel and the cable is out but not broken. I'm having trouble figuring out exactly how that mechanism in there really works. I can see where the cable lifts, and I push on the other end of the "arm" and it doesn't release the door, almost seems like it should lift higher. I w-d40 the out of it and I'm gonna look at it again tomorrow in the light. Hopefully it was just stuck or gummed up. I don't want to take it in for something that seems like I should be able to do!
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The drivers side barn door won't open. I took the handle off and the door panel and the cable is out but not broken. I'm having trouble figuring out exactly how that mechanism in there really works. I can see where the cable lifts, and I push on the other end of the "arm" and it doesn't release the door, almost seems like it should lift higher....
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Everything was fine with my 2000 F-150 until a few weeks ago when I went to open the driver's side pocket door and it would not open. Felt like the latch was releasing but would not open. I went around to the passenger's side pocket door to open it: SAME PROBLEM! This makes no sense; these two doors had worked fine, they operate independently, and I have confirmed with Ford dealers that there is no safety lock feature that may have been activated. Of course, the only remaining options appear to me either my tearing the doors apart, or worse yet paying someone else for the privilege.
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I am thinking of purchasing a 2003 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 as my winter vehicle. The car only has 92,000 miles on it. I test drove it, and it seems to run great! The only issue (visibly) with the car is that the rear drivers side door is stuck. There is a dent below the door handle, and the door will not open from the inside of the car, or from the outside. The dent does not look major, and it seems to me that if I can get the door open, I could repair the latch/locking mechanism.
I don't want to buy the car if the only way to repair the door is to spend a ton of money at a body shop. Below are the pictures of the outside of the door. Hopefully the image links work.
I think it is the locking mechanism that is broken. The dent isn't causing the door to be stuck. The power door locks work, and I can manually lock/unlock the rear door. However, even when unlocked, the door will not open from inside or outside the vehicle. It's as though the door is "stuck" because the lock doesn't disengage.
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I can't figure out how to open the door panel driver side.
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