Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Driver Side Wheel Has Wobble - Wearing Inside Of Tire
Oct 17, 2014
I have a 2010 f150 supercrew 4x4 with 8.8 3:55 nls rear differential. my driver side tire has a wobble to it it is wearing the inside of the tire. i have replaced the driver axle shaft with new ford oem shaft put in new axle bearings and seals on both sides and have replaced the spyder gears and i still have the wobble I don't know what is going on. the wobble is more pronounced when the tire and rim are bolted to the shaft only without the drum and caliper attached. with caliper and rotor attached i still have the wobble just not as bad however the tire wobbles going down the road more noticeable between 20-45 mph.
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Just bought a spotless, low mileag
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I have a 2wd 2011 F150 90K with grinding noise coming from the drivers side front tire. Even though it was happening when coasting I thought it might be pads but they are real good. Turning the hub with no tire on it I can hear a little grinding. So I suspect bearings. I want to remove the hub but can't find out how to pull that off.
Where I would expect to find a spindle nut there is an area where it looks like you put a puller in. Can't find any videos or other information on the "Internets". Maybe I'm the first to have bad bearings? Anyway, how to remove the hub?
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My passenger rear tire is wearing out on the inside edge. Thoughts as to cause and possible fix?
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Had the death wobble a couple of months ago. Changed all shocks, steering stabilizer to bilsteins; new tires (stock), ready lift stabilizer(stock, no lift) had it digitally aligned. All was perfect. Until my new intermittent steering issues. It appears to happen when making a 90 degree turn, say a right or left onto a perpendicular roadway. As truck straightens out, you'd think the front drivers side wheel is going to fall off(you'd think the lugs are missing).
Pull int a parking lot, drive in a few circles, and all back to normal. Can't replicate every time, force for s few days with no issues, then it might happen again. Other intermittent issue is sometimes, again out of no where, truck will pull and track to the right or left. Pull the steering wheel the opposite direction, it'll track the other way. Again, pull int parking lot, do a few figure eight circles and back to normal. Alignment shop and regular mechanic say everything is tight, ball joint look fine.
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I bought a 2002 F250, 2 months ago love the truck drives great for 130000 miles, but the front left steer is making a lot of noise and wearing on the inside edge and like its skipping every couple inches so very noisy thought maybe ball joints but a buddy say tire is out of balance truck does not pull left or right and drives straight...
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I own a 2011 lariat with 500 miles. We have had several days of rain and I am getting alot of rust spots on my driveway always below and inside the right front tire. None in the rear or left front. Dealer said not to worry about it after they looke at the area. They said it is the new metal forming surface rust. There is a skid plate which seems to cover wherever the rust is starting. Should I demand that area be undercoated.
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Could the constant wobble be caused from a bad wheel bearing? The wobbling and vibration gets really bad and it try's to setup an insistent shaking & vibrating at 35mph and I have to slow down to around 18 - 20mph to make it calm down. It sounds and feels like it wants to turn into the 'death wobble thing'. It is coming from the drivers side and after removing the drivers side front wheel, I've noticed the wheel bearing grease has all squished out all around the bearing on the inside of the bearing where the axle enters the bearing right after the ribbed boot. See the attached video. Does this grease coming out all over indicate that the wheel bearing is completely blown out thereby causing this extreme wobble and vibration?
Or could it be a from a combination of a worn tire on that side (which it has) and worn tie rods, ball joints, etc? ...after all the car is 19 years old.
I also have a problem with the heater blower - it does not work at any speed, doesn't even turn on. I can feel heat coming up into the car defrost and vents, but without the assistance of the blower. I can hear the relay click when I turn the heat on and off, and I already put in a new blower motor resistor. Could it be the fan switch itself? Or could the blower motor be blown? The fuses have been checked and are all good.
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I'm looking to buy an ISF and now I'm reading about the 2IS chassis suffering from front inner tire wear with many attributing it to the soft LCA bushing (see FIG fix) and the factory alignment. Most of the reports seem to be focused on the 2008-2010 ISFs and I see little about 2011+ owners reporting this issue. It's my understanding that the 2011+ front springs are slightly taller/higher and a different rate. Did this possibility (inadvertently) correct the front inner tire wear issue?
I had a 2003 G35 and front inner tire wear plagued that car too and it was annoying and no real fix available. It had the same exact suspension setup on ALL components. We didn't smoke through the inner rubber tread, but rather it feathered like and if you didn't stay on top of it, your G/Z would sound and feel like a dump truck after about 10-15K miles because of the feathering.
I'm looking at 2012-2014 ISFs and I would check and correct the alignment if necessary. I know FIG makes a replacement bushing, but it's urethane and after about 20 years of modding cars, I've learned that urethane is best left to race cars. After about 5K miles, urethane needs regreasing and almost always leads to squeaking/clunking as the urethane loosens up after a year or two.
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I just got my 2000 f250 a couple of months ago and my passenger tire is going balled but my driver side tire is fine this is my first ford truck so I don't know much about them. I have a tug in the steering as well...
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I have a 2010 fx 4 cew cab that has a 2" lift on it. I am new to the truck scene, but my wife has always wanted a big truck. I have pro comp tires that are 35 X 12.50X20 LT. They are the Pro Comp Xtreme A/T. The truck is driven evry once in a while and it is never off road. The issue I am having is that the tire wear is really bad and uneven in the front. It has been aligned 3 times in one year and the balance has been checked. I had the lift kit done at the dealership and they are saying this is normal and that the wear is due to not rotating the tires every 3000 miles. If the truck was driven every day I would understand but it only has 10,000 miles on it. Is this normal? The wear looks like a shock could be bad but they have already replaced the shocks about 3 moths after i purchased the truck.
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So last night on my way home I was stopping at a traffic signal and noticed a grinding noise from the drivers side front wheel. Upon further investigation I noticed a lot of brake dust on my wheel. I took it to the dealer thinking the caliper might be seized up. Well they looked at the caliper and said it was OK but the inside pad was worn to the metal. The other pads still looked good but since they have to replace the rotor they might as well replace all of them. The tech told me that being up north where they use salt corrodes the pads and doesnt allow them to move freely. He also asked me if I drive a lot of highway miles and I said yes, 30 miles a day. I guess from what he said is that the less they get used the more they will corrode up. So premature brake pad wear could be worse.
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Looking for recommendations for a well fitting seat cover for this series of trucks? My driver's side is tearing (12 years of people dragging their rear ends across it will do that) and the foam cushion is starting to lose small pieces. I try to stand on the running board when getting in/out to minimize wear on the seat, but I'm just delaying the inevitable, not preventing it. I bought a set at Autozone, but it's going back because it doesn't fit properly and that makes it look, well, kind of tacky.
I've tried a few local scrap yards, but nobody has a matching seat in my interior color that isn't already wearing out. Autozone or any other retailer just carry universal fit covers, which don't fit well enough to look appealing. My only other option is to have it re-upholstered, but I have a feeling that might be on the spendy side.
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I have a GS350 AWD and it seems that my hankook ventus V2 concepts side walls are fading alot quicker than the middle... the middle has A LOT more too go but i cant figure out why its doing this... I have the PSI set to 33psi as the side of the door suggested... should i try putting PSI that the tire recommends?
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I have a 02 Prius and the driver's side brakes are wearing twice as fast as the passengers side. Some times if I have to stop quickly the brakes pads continue to apply pressure on the rotor when the brakes are released. After a little drive they seem to go back to normal. Is this a sign of a bad caliper or master cyl.? I know before I purchased the car the front brakes and rotors were done, but they used after market parts
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So my rear driver side tire blew at 24k miles. Dropped with Tein H techs when I first bought and had it aligned via lexus. 14 months later and tire blew. The thread on the tire was very worn on the inner side of the tire so I had to exchanged them both. I order the Michelin ps2 and now it's rubbing ?
Why is the Michelin rubbing when the tires are the exact same specs as factory? Didn't know I had to get camber kits for just H Techs.
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Here is the problem, door and the driver and passenger side is on the lock position but can be open from the inside but not outside. The back 2 door works fine, its on the lock, you cant open it and you can only open it if you put it on the unlock position. Child lock in not active on all doors (I think its only back tho). Wireless lock/unlock works fine, I hear them lock but if you are on a driver or a passenger and the door in on lock position, you can easily open the door inside even tho its on lock position, but outside, its lock and cant be open.
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My first issue popped up during this week. Only 20k on the clock (I don't put nearly the miles on this one like the 6.0) and I have a/c vents on the driver side spitting out hot air, while the vents on the passenger side spitting out cold (which is the way it should be as I have it set on 60).
Of course, out of all the issues that could have crept up, that one is relatively mild. Other then that, still enjoying the 150 immensely. Just wish it was a diesel, can't have it all, although certainly can wish/try.
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I noticed my drivers fog light was out last week, okay no big deal, replaced both and saved the good passenger side one for a spare.
This morning while driving to work (0330), I noticed my drivers side fog light blinking. Its not a steady blink, more of a bad connection or ground situation. Drive for a while....all is well...hit a bump and it goes off for a few seconds and comes back on.
I haven't had a chance to look at it and probably won't until I get off of work next week. I've confirmed that the passenger side doesn't do this. I'm not going to use them until I get it figured out. My question is if there is any known "go to" or trouble spots for them doing this? Truck is a 14 Supercrew without LED or HIDs.
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I slid, probably going about 20-25mph. Driver side tire hit the curb. Rim looks scraped, tire appears to be fine, steering wheel is a little loose feeling.
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I took my car in the other day for 4 new tires at 8am I drive home 2 miles from the place. I work nights so I sleep all day. As I was going to work at 11pm I noticed it sounded like the front drivers side tire was rubbing up against the car when I turn the wheel from left to right. I took it back to the place I got the tires from. I thought something might be adjusted wrong or something. They call me to tell me that the tires are fine and the problem is that I need a new power steering pump. There was no noise or steering problem previous to me getting the tires.
I took it to pep boys (the only place open last night). They say the pump needs to be replaced along with racks and pinions..etc. I ask if the leak can be slowed or stopped with one of those stop leak products and they say no. The fluid just drains right out. Is there something the guy that put my tires on could have messed up to cause this problem?
I spent a lot for the tires and within 5-10 miles later this problem starts. The car has over 250000 miles on it and I cant justify spending that much money to repair it but at the same time Im in a bind financially (medical bills, divorce) to get another car right now. I realize even if they did mess it up when they put the tires on, they wont admit to it anyway.
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