Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Crinkly / Scratching Noise Under Load Like Something Is Dragging
Jun 8, 2016
2012 F150, 5.0
Quiet at idle, makes a crinkly, scratching noise under load, becomes almost a rattle or sounds like something is dragging (there isn't anything dragging). I can rev the engine in P and do not get the noise, only when in gear and moving. Quiet when cruising, noise comes on when accelerating. Did not notice the last time I drove it, it sat for a couple of days, then noticed it the next time I drove (yesterday). Took it around the block this morning to see if it was still making the noise, it is.
Obviously, it needs to go to the dealer, but want some info if it's harmful to drive it there, or if I should have it towed.
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Last night I took the turn a bit too sharply and the rear passenger wheel drove onto the curb, and I heard a scratching noise from the rear passenger side. Now I'm worried that I've broken something, because now the passenger side leaf spring feels a bit more bouncy than the one on the driver side. I have never paid any attention to my rear suspension until I drove over that curb, so maybe it was always bouncy. What I'm worrying about is the scratching sound when the wheel was on the curb, could that be the traction control kicking in?
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I have a 2012 F-150 4x4 super crew all factory with 54,000 mi. I've noticed a new noise/hum at slower speeds, more frequent now. The noise doesn't sound like its from the front or back specifically. I pulled the front wheels this evening and the front rotors seem pretty tight, how easily should they turn with vehicle off for about 30 min? I started it and pushed and released the brake and quickly tried to turn them, very tight, after a minute or two they relaxed a little, another 5 min they seemed tighter? I sharpie mark on both inside and outside of the rotor and turned it past the pads and they are both squeezing equally ruling out binding of the slider bolts.
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I have developed a noise in my front end. Sounds like someone shaking a handful of loose change or like bearings without lube. Occurs only while under load. As soon as I roll into or out of the throttle the noise comes or goes. Revving the engine in park or powerbraking does not reproduce the noise. Also I put the truck in 4x4 and the scratching noise goes away but I get a big shake and a clunk every so often especially under throttle. I'm thinking CV joints but that doesn't quite make sense. I've got 57k miles on it now with about 54k on a 2.5" level and 35" toyos. Not sure if this would normally be covered under the powertrain warranty, but with the lift and tires I doubt it so it looks like I'll be tackling this one on my own, hence the post. Any tips on Where to start on a 04-08?
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2013 Platinum. See sig for details. 37,000 miles. 1 owner. Truck has been basically parked since June. However I take it out for a quick spin every 3 week for 10 miles or so. Currently has storage insurance on it.
When backing out of the garage the brakes are grinding and squealing bad. Also getting feedback through the steering wheel for the first couple miles which leads me to believe it's one or both the front brakes.
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I was uber excited to buy my first brand new truck in 09..... Amount numerous issues, defective rear window (fought with ford for 3 years never replaced under warranty), sync issues draining my battery, multiple O2 sensors replaced, multiple lights replaced and a blown drive shaft all under warranty. Now my warranty literally just ended, years not miles, just rolled 36k yesterday, ran out 3 years in November 12, now I'm having break issues.
A few weeks ago while driving, I released the gas and truck seem to slow faster than normal. Seemed kind of unusual but also began to noticed a drag on my mpg, about 2-4 mpg difference, depending on highway or in town. Now 3 weeks later, I feel grinding under breaking. Now it's beginning to make sense. I figure probably a stuck caliper. While driving with head out the window , freezing in IL, by the way, seems to be the drivers front. Checked rotors, outsides only as there are the guards preventing me from checking the back side. No visual or touch grooves ground into the rotors from the pads being worn out. Best bet is its the back side of the caliper that is locked.
Question 1, does this make sense, only one side of the caliper locking up? I had a caliper lock on my old GTP but the whole thing locked up.
Question 2, do I just suck it up and replace the breaks my self, gf's dad is a manager at O'rylies so I can get anything I want at cost, or do I go back to the dealer and bitch about mechanical problems being constant with my new now only weeks out of warranty truck? I read some horror stories about clogged lines and numerous other issues causing calipers to lock. I don't feel like replacing my whole break system, lines, calipers and all just to make sure the problem is fixed. At 3 years this seems ludicrous.
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I have a 2009 Gen III T Spirit. Recently, and I think following the recent reflash, I have been getting an extra noise on cold startup. It is a scratching noise that lasts just a couple of seconds about 4 or 5 seconds after pressing the start button. I have tried to attach a short recording but cannot upload an mp3 file so have made it into a zip file.
I have checked whether it is radio by removing fuses 8 and 28 and have also switched off the heater fan, both without any effect.
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had enough time invested in repairs and so forth, to believe I recognize a Heat Shield's rattle, when I hear it.
At least that's what I THINK I hear. Under load (up hills or when the torque increases) I hear a sympathetic rattle (or buzzing) coming from somewhere underneath.
My guess: one of the Heat Shields has a few tack welds that have popped on my 2009 F-150, and buzz (heat shield against the Catalytic body or whatever) when the sympathetic vibration hits a certain level. All I really have to do is find it, to affirm what I believe. Fixing it............well...........that's another matter. I suppose some garage somewhere will tell me that I should replace the component that has the Heat Shield attached to it, but...........I'd rather re-tack the Heat Shield or encourage that.
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The other day I was backing our TT up the driveway. The engine sounded almost like a diesel, and was running rough.
Our driveway is not flat, but it is darn close. The TT is a small lightweight one, so I was not pushing a lot of weight either.
My truck has also done this while just backing up the driveway to park in the garage.
If I rev it up it smooths out, but then may drop back down to run rough again or smooth out. Totally unpredictable.
No codes are thrown. Is this more of the crappy cam phaser junk?
I run Motorcraft Oil/Oil filters and change at the recommended intervals.
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I just purchased a 2013 Ford Focus hatchback SE Monday night. Tuesday morning I came out of the house to get in my car, I unlocked the car, and opened the door. Before I even got into the car I heard a "scratch scratch scratch whirr whirr" coming from the engine. The dealer did not show me where the hood latch was so by the time I figured out how to open the hood the noise had stopped (within a minute of when it started.) Driving that day I did not notice any more noise, nor any issues with the engine.
Wednesday morning (today) I came out to get in my car, and when I opened the door I heard the same nose coming from under the hood. I got the hood open and looked in with a flashlight while the nose was still going. The noise was coming from the right hand side of the engine block, but I did not see anything actually moving to cause the scratching and whirring noise.
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Bought a 2005 FX4 recently, 107k miles, engine and transmission working smooth and quiet. Changed oil in engine, transmission, transfer case and rear axle, filter in engine and transmission, the oil I drained still looked pretty good.
At take-off or when going slowly the truck sometimes makes a really weird creaking/scratching/rattling noise. It appears to come from underneath the truck, I only can hear it when driving close to a building or taking off besides another vehicle with windows down (noise is reflected by building or other vehicle). There is no jerk, the truck drives normal but the noise is really weird (and alarming?). Where to look?
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I heard some noise when the steering is hard. The noise sounds like squealing or scratching metals. What will be the problem? Is it the EPS system or just the serpentine belt slipping on the alternator?
BTW, the mileage is about 137700.
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my 2007 Prius has been sounding a bit under the weather lately. There is a grinding scratching noise. This happens in either EV or HV modes and is most noticeable when bearing right. The tires are on their last treads, and a bit scalloped but that seems to me to be a different sound.
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So ive been having a problem with my 2004 Honda Accord. It on occasion doesn't start. I'm talking about once a month I run into this problem. When I do have this problem, I turn the key and it cranks but doesn't start. At the end of the crank I get a scratching noise. My alternator, spark plugs and battery are all fairly new (4 months old) and oem. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump failing.
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I replaced my front axle pads but the driver's side brakes seem to be dragging on the rotor making a very loud squealing noise when im driving. When I parked it in my driveway it was really hot and smoking. It doesn't happen to the passenger side. I pushed back the Pistons easily to get the brake pads in there so that wasn't a problem. But I must admit I changed them when my brakes were grinding.
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I have had this car for 4 years, and it's been driving, and handling very well overall. Lately, I started hearing a soft scratching noise when accelerating, and especially going from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd gear. There was some hesitation before shifting to the higher gear as well. I took the car to a local mechanic, and after test driving, and listening to the engine with a tube??? he told me that he needed to change the torque converter and the pump, and quoted me for $1936. My wife immediately wanted to sell the car and buy a new one. Half of my friends said the same thing (well, at least my richer friends did), and the others said to fix it and drive it while I could do so.
So, I took the car to another transmission specialist, and they told me that the transmission was in great condition, fluids, shifting, etc. Something doesn't add up here. I know that the engine/transmission doesn't sound the same as when I bought the car, but how is it possible to have that kind of diametrically opposite diagnosis. Meanwhile, I took the Mazda to a local dealership, and they quoted me for $4500 trade-in value, while CARMAX said they would give me $2500. Needless to say, I am at a crossroad - we know we have to change the car soon, but how soon and under what circumstances, this is the question. Then, just today, another mechanic said that the engine is unbalanced, and is giving a low, and powerful vibration, and the harmonic balancer needed to be changed.
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So my Nissan Xterra 2006 has started making a weird noise about a week ago. I haven't noticed any problems while driving it but id really like to figure out what's causing the noise. It routinely starts when I start up the car after sitting parked for a while. Example, if I start the car up to go to the store it'll make the noise but after turning the car on and leaving the store I don't hear it. The noise lasts just a little while and is loudest at about 20mph. So once the car is warmed up I don't hear it. I can't really pinpoint where it's coming from because the car has to be in motion driving forward for it to start. It sounds like it's coming from under the car. What it could be.
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My husband (yes, him not me) drove my car (2009 Subaru Forester) last night and admitted this morning to enjoying driving through numerous puddles. I'm pretty sure it was more of a rally-car type of driving, not the careful-who-knows-what-is-in-this-puddle type. The car wasn't driven since then, until this evening. I backed out of the driveway- no issues. I started to pull forward and there was a horrible screeching noise. I stopped, backed up & pulled forward again- nothing. So I drove to the end of the block, still nothing.
Pulling away from the stop sign- screeching again. My first thought was metal was dragging on the ground- nope. Turned around & went back home, inspected the car- nothing seems loose or out of place. It seems I can get the noise to happen if I accelerate normally from a stopped position, but if I start out very gingerly its okay. It happens between 1500 & 2000 RPMs, the wheels can be straight or turned.
We pulled off the rear passenger wheel (where the noise seemed to come from) and noticed the nut/bolt thing that is in the center of the bolts for the lug nuts (on the break assembly- I think) is damaged. There is a bright blue mark on it and a divot in the metal. This is the only damage we can see. With the wheel on, it is covered by the center of the hub cap.
My car is a manual transmission and the breaks have never been in use when the noise happens. What could cause the noise...
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I first noticed that the sunroof was making scratching noises when I opened and closed it then finally noticed the plastic on one side had just fallen out. I put it back, but it just eventually falls out again.
5 pictures included. Two show the plastic completely out. The other 3 show how it usually is with most of the plastic in the center attached, but the edges hanging out a bit.
[URL]................
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I've looked at several threads but no one describes my exact problem. The issue started suddenly. When I am in 4WD and turn (does not have to be sharp) there is a dragging and rubbing noise. It drags hard enough that it will stop the truck.
Sounds like the brakes engaging and rubbing. I can not see any foreign material wrapped up anywhere. The 4WD appears to be engaging properly and the IWE appear to be working. I can "stomp on it" in a straight line and throw mud with no crazy noises and get a rooster tail from the front end.
I've got about 15000 on new brakes and rotors. Ceramic pads and lifetime rotors all the way around.
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I have a 2010 XLT, 85K, just started having a horrible grinding noise at start up for about 2-3 seconds, then gone. Going to dealer tmrrw. Multiple people said, possible oil pump hydraulics, ??????. Whatever it is, they say its expensive!!!!!
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