I have a 2009 F150 with 100,000+ miles on it. It will crank, but it won't start. It was sitting for 10 days while I was away on vacation. It was running just fine before I left. I though it might be the battery so I changed it and it still won't turn over. I read about a fuel pump driver module on the 04-08 models, but I'm not sure if the '09's have had an issue. My only thoughts would be the starter or the fuel pump.
View 6 RepliesYesterday the truck run Perfect. Got home and shut it off. This morning I get I. Turn key and the truck will crank but not start. After it tries to start the oil light comes on. I Che ked the oil and it was 2.5 its low. Added oil and it still isn't starting! 2010 f150 5.4l ....
View 3 RepliesGot a 2013 F-150 with a start problem after warm. If I let it sit with battery disconnected it will start up. When it will not start it acts like a no spark issue.
View 1 Replies2010 STX with 4 speed (4r75E)... Yesterday morning when I was almost at work(20 minute drive) I went to accelerate from a stop sign and my truck acted like it was in neutral. Once the rpm's dropped to just above idle speed the transmission caught and I was able to accelerate as normal. I guess I didn't think much of it until I was coming home from work, again about 20 minutes of driving, when I was accelerating while turning left from a stop sign. Halfway through the turn my rpm's shot up to about 5000 and it was acting as if I were in neutral again. Just as before, when the rpms dropped to just above idle, the transmission reengaged and everything was normal.
I decided to take my wife's van to Walmart and grabbed a bottle of lucas oil "transmission fix". I figured it might buy me a little time before I am able to get it to a shop for diagnosis. I used a suction pump to remove approx. 24 oz. of tranny fluid through the dipstick tube. I then added the lucas oil "tranny fix" (24 oz. bottle). I inspected the fluid that I removed. It looks pretty dirty. I would say that it was a nontransparent brown color with a slight red tint. when poured onto a paper towel it still looked brown. It didn't smell burnt at all. I checked the fluid level twice before I added the lucas oil, and twice after. Both times the fluid level was at the full mark (fluid at normal operating temp, with vehicle in park after shifting through all gears).
Fast forward to today and I was able to drive from my current house to my new house(being built) which was about 10 minutes away. I had no issues at all with the transmission. after being at the new house for about an hour and a half I came back home with no issues. about 30 minutes after returning home I headed back out again to run some errands. About 15 minutes into the drive my transmission slipped again as I was making a right turn into the barber's shop parking lot. after about an hour at the barber shop I headed for home again. As before everything was fine for about the first 15 minutes until I tried to make a right turn after sitting at a red light. the transmission slipped as described before, but it did it twice this time in the same turn. Nothing happened after that within the last 5 minutes of driving home.
The slipping only seems to happen when accelerating from a dead stop or from an extremely slow speed(under 5 mph). At highway speeds the transmission down shifts and upshifts just like it always has. My truck has 78,800 miles on it and has never shown any previous signs of transmission issues other than a leaky dipstick tube that I replaced about 3 years ago.
My father had a 94 Taurus that had similar symptoms in the past and it ended up needing new clutch disks and was rebuilt. I'm hoping for that rather than a new or reman'd tranny!
My Ecoboost emblems on the sides are starting to discolor for some strange reason. I keep my truck clean and waxed so I don't feel it's due to neglect. I would like to ask the dealer to replace them with new ones but am concerned about how they would remove them...don't want any damage to the paint etc. Can this would be "easy" for the dealer to do without causing issues?
View 14 RepliesIssues:
1. Backup camera sporadically does not come on in rear view mirror. Has already been replaced by Ford dealership.
2. Backup camera settings Visual Park Aid and Guidelines sporadically are set to 'off'
3. While truck is running, start seeing warnings/hearing chimes. Emergency Brake (which isn't set), Engine Overheating, Check 4X4, etc.
4. Truck will NOT start. Won't even attempt to turn over. When this happens, I have a radio but the LED screen is usually blank.
These sporadic issues are starting to seem to be related to the use of the emergency brake. Use of the emergency brake does not always immediately cause issues. Now that I feel like there is some kind of connection, I have been setting the e-brake when I park it (even if not needed) trying to force things to happen because Ford says if they can't make it happen they don't know where to look/what to fix. I can't always make things happen by using the e brake...but am noticing things happen more often when I DO use it and when things happen (like backup camera won't work) setting the brake will make it come on and then I can release it and back up. If it won't crank while the brake is set, releasing it will cause it to crank. The other morning when I had all the warnings/chimes going off setting the e-brake made everything go back to 'normal'.
Yesterday when I came back from lunch I parked and set the e brake (on level ground). Got in it to leave work, left e-brake set, stepped on regular brake and tried to crank....nothing but radio. Called dealership. They had me try putting the key in, pressing the regular brake, and try to move the shifter from Park to N. Shifter wouldn't move. Then asked to turn key to just get it 'active' and try again. Shifter wouldn't move. Asked me to turn the key to crank and try again. Same thing - shifter wouldn't move. Truck finally cranked after I released e brake. Came home, parked and set e brake and turned it off. It re-started right up with e brake still set.
The last few days I've started getting the Wrench Light on my dash panel upon starting the truck and trying to put it into gear. I first noticed this on a cold morning and got the wrench but the truck went into Reverse and once I got going I was only in 3rd gear. I started and stopped the engine a few times and finally got it going. Since then it seems to do it all the time whether hot or cold. Tonight I noticed that if i start the engine and just go directly into Drive. I don't have the issue but if I ever go into Reverse it goes into limp mode and i get the big yellow wrench again. I only have engine Code P0720 which seems to refer to a speed sensor. I can't seem to find the sensor listed on the typical auto part websites.
View 4 RepliesI got a 2010 F-150 and just installed RECON headlights and taillights on my truck yesterday. Today, I went to go and use my remote start and the lights come on like it should and then it beeps 3 times and doesn't start. All my doors are closed. I thought maybe it was something with my hood sensor but I couldn't really find it.
View 4 RepliesI drive a 2001 ford f150 lariat 5.4L. My truck will crank but not start, i am getting complete spark, and have ran a full fuel pressure procedure, and am getting complete fuel pressure, there is no water in my gas, everything checks out how it should. I ran a test on my cluster and it showed a code that said i am not getting connection to computer to start. I removed the cluster and repaired all loose wires properly, and it still wont start! I have had many people look at it and they said it could still be a bad cluster.
View 13 RepliesI work for the transportation department at a school and we have a bunch of 6.0 f350/450 busses and this bus I am working on has a no crank condition. Bus in question is a 2006 F450 6.0.
Currently if you turn the key to start the engine the solenoid just clicks but the engine wont crank. The person working on it before me assumed that the batteries and or starter were bad so they were replaced(0 miles on them right now) but the problem still persists.
First thing I did when I started working on this bus was jumping the starter relay and the starter engages and starts the engine perfectly. That being said I know the starter wiring is fine.
Secondly I looked through the wiring diagrams and saw that the PCM grounds the 85 terminal on the starter relay so I tried grounding the 85 and I was able to crank the engine with the key so that was telling me that the actual starter relay is fine. Next I went and swapped the PCM with another 2006 f450 thinking maybe the grounding switch in the PCM was bad and I have the same no crank condition. The PCM from the bus in question was swapped to the doner bus and it cranked perfectly(PCM in question is fine).
Next thing I did was look up all of the ground locations for the PCM or anything to do with the starter and they were all cleaned and still have the same no crank.
Looking around on the internet I see that the viscous fan can cause a problem if it shorts out so I unplugged that and no change in the no crank. I also saw that the trans range sensor could cause a no crank condition but I am getting back up lights/beeper and the bus "wants" to crank so I am thinking that the TRS is not the problem.
Lastly I tried hooking my Modis scanner up to this bus and was NOT able to communicate with either of the PCM's I tried. Not sure if this is related to my no crank condition. I checked all of the wiring that I could but could not find any chafing or breaks in any of the OBDII wiring. My planned next step is to replace the TRS...
I have an 04 ford 6.0. It is an 03 model. It has 165xxx miles. It fires right up cold but, once warmed up it will crank but not even try to start. A little starting fluid and it will fire right up. I sent the FICM in and had it tested and it is good. I put in new 850CCA batteries and a 185 amp alternator so my voltage is good. I changed the fuel filter and the oil/oil filter, synthetic 5w-30. It isn't throwing any codes. I am really hoping it's not the HPOP but, think it's probably that or related to it.
View 14 RepliesHaving some problems with my truck.... First off I bought a 2002 excursion and drove it for one day. Then I was at the car wash cleaning up the truck. Then I saw the window fogging up so I turned the car off. Now it won't start.
I had previously installed a new stereo, but had some problems, so I ran the remote wire to the fuse box, because the wire in the harness wasn't getting power.. So after a little trouble shooting we found out that the fuel pump wasn't working or was bad.
We replaced it, now it has pressure but will not start, will start with starting fluid but will not crank on its own. someone told me it may be a bad PCM? and a dealer can only replace it... I don't have tons of cash, as i bought this truck on 8/30/12 and this happened the day after i bought it.
The previous owner has paid or the fuel pump replacing but I don't think its right on my part to have him pay more money as this may be a mess up on my part with hooking the radio up to the fuse box... we have tried the fuses,realys, crank sensors...
89 2.3l 4x4 will crank just fine but no start. It is getting plenty of fuel. Replaced ignition module,crank sensor,computer, checked all fuses. I've been looking for a broken wire with no luck. Doesn't seem to be getting any power to the coil packs. Truck was not driven very often until a month ago. Started up fine everyday until the no start.
View 10 RepliesYesterday I was on a pretty long trip and stopped off the interstate to grab some food. My truck is really loud so I always shut my engine off at the drive-thru. When I went to crack it back up everything lit up but when I turned the key nothing happened. I had the truck towed home and I put a new starter on it. Still nothing.....
Well after further investigating where the positive wire that comes from the starter to the battery was broken at the battery post. Don't know how the heck that happened but I fixed it back to factory condition but still nothing. I'm at a complete loss. I checked all fuses and everything looks good.
When I turn the key everything lights up, then turn to crank it and nothing but a slight sound coming from those square silver things in the fuse panel under the steering wheel.
2007 f250 PSD with to many extras to list
I had issues with my F250 cranking last winter when the temperature dropped, so I changed out the glow plugs in the spring. I hadn't been able to truly test them yet, since it hasn't been cold, but the other morning my truck wouldn't crank up. It was 40 degrees out the night before, and it had been almost 24 hours since I cranked the truck, but it seems to me like the truck shouldn't have an issue in that mild weather.
I'm not sure what I need to do next to try and fix this problem, it's been driving me crazy and risks stranding me if I park for a while in an area where I am unable to plug by block heater in. The truck cranks fine when I have had it plugged in for a while, so I'm fairly certain it's a heating issue. I haven't done any tests since last year, but I know that the GPR was working properly last winter, which is why I changed out the glow plugs.
It's a 2001 F-350 Crew cab short bed. Got it from the second owner which had a large file from the original owner on documentation and maintenance records. Truck has 280k, tranny about 80k. Question I have is, I kinda thought it would "feel" more powerful then it does. Temp got to about 35f last night after work and it cranked for about 15-20 sec before it started (yes I let the "Wait to start" light go out).
Then pulling out of work it would hardly get out of its own way. Does this sound normal? When it is warmed up it goes ok, but still I figured when the turbo winds up it would feel a bit "peppier". I get its a diesel and not a hot rod but I was expecting a bit more pep.
MODS on the truck that I can tell: AFE cold intake, 5"? exhaust turbo back, about 4" lift. Stock PCM. In cab controlled rear air bags, nice deck with back up camera.
2007 350 the truck sat overnight (15 hrs) I went to start the truck and it had to crank for about 3 seconds which is abnormal for my truck?? It was about 80 degrees outside. Is there any reason for that?
View 7 RepliesHaving an intermittent starting problem after sitting for a period of time or overnight. Engine will crank but not start, turn key off and back on wait 5 sec and engine starts and runs fine. Restarts all day long no problem. Dealer found a code(unk number) for low fuel rail pressure. Was able to create the problem for the tech. So far we have replaced the fuel filter, the FPDC (fuel pump driver control) and the fuel pump. Also replaced two ground straps, possible poor connection.
Problem continues.
I have a 2001 E-350 w/7.3. When I start the truck first thing or when engine is cooled down it starts fine. I checked the high pressure pump pressure and it is 500 - 600 psi start up great. But when engine warms and try to start it it has long crank before starting. I checked pressure and it is between 425 to0 450 and takes awhile for it to get to 500 or better. Is this a cause of the high pressure oil pump ? I changed the oil and still does same thing. Also I noticed that after engine is hot and I try to start it, while cranking the engine the oil gauge does not move. I don't know if it supposed to when you crank it or not. I thought on other 7.3's I've worked on that the gauge builds up pressure....
View 14 RepliesI have some issues with my 2009 F250 5.4L. Recently I got in the car and went to start it. It started fine but I was getting beeping noises from the dashboard. 5 beeps with 1 second between each beep for 3 times. I shut the car off and go to start it again and engine does not crank at all. I get the relay click every time i try to start it but engine doesn't want to crank. Then the beeps come back.
About a month ago I had a reputable shop here in town install a compustar remote starter. It hasn't given me any troubles at all but I'm thinking this might be the culprit behind the issue. I towed the car down to the place where they installed my remote starter and they got the car started. They said I had blown fuses and the remote starter is not behind the problem I'm having. So I picked the car up and it was all good for 4 days and last night I get in the car and same issue.
I scanned the car and came back with these codes
U2472 Ignition State Unexpected
B1868 Lamp Air Bag Warning Indicator Circuit Failure
U2023 Vehicle communication bus error
I tried resetting the codes and tried to start the car (it didn't) and another code popped up
B1555 for ignition run/start circuit failure.
Whats going on? Problem?
I have a 2000 F250 7.3 manual tranny that was put away for winter storage and now will not start. Need it to get my weekend work done now that the snow is finally gone. Symptoms:
- not cranking
- no dash lights (no oil light, battery light, etc.)
- radio works
- head lights work
- key buzzer works
- can hear clicking when turn key (assume solenoid OK)
Put in two new batteries, fully charger and terminals are clean. Where should I start looking?