What would cause a clicking sound when it is cold outside. When the temperature is -20 Celsius the truck makes a loud clicking sound upon acceleration. When the truck is at idle it goes away. When the truck warms up it goes away. What this might be?
View 5 RepliesSo yesterday afternoon I went outside and started my truck up. Upon starting it up and flipping the AC to high I noticed a clicking sound coming from somewhere inside my dashboard. It did not change in rhythm regardless of what setting the blower was on. But it remained for a couple of minutes before it subsided.
For the record it wasn't a subtle clicking...It was a very obvious sound. After the noise went away I continued to use the AC and it worked just fine like it always has. What it could have been? 2011 F-150
2009 F150 STX with 4.6L 3 valve engine. When first started there is a pulsating sucking noise (sounds like a small vacuum pump at where I work) that has started to come from under the hood. Only does this for about 10 seconds or so and then goes away. The colder the engine is when started the worse it is. I have also noticed that about 10 or so seconds after you shut the engine off you can hear a valve of some sort opening up and a rush of air. I think this is coming from the passenger side by the radiator. Where this sucking noise is coming from? And is this valve release at the end normal? The truck has about 48K miles on it so don't know if this would be a warranty thing or not.
View 2 RepliesSo my 2014 Elantra makes a tapping/ticking sound on cold starts which stays audible after the oil gets up to temp for at least until about 10 minutes of driving. I've heard this noise since I bought the car and of course kept searching all over the forums but everyone seems to have a different opinion as to what causes it and if it's normal or not. I finally decided to drop my car off at the dealer overnight so they could start in the morning and diagnose it. They listened, ran some tests on the engine and said everything was fine, nothing was damaged and that the sound is from the second fuel pump that is located over the engine.
They tested my fuel and said it's making the sound because I'm using a heavy fuel quality, then the tech told me I should run a fuel cleaner every other time I fill the car up. This seems excessive to me? I only fill my car up with Shell gas and avoid discount places which the tech agreed that Shell gas should be fine. I only have 22k miles on the car do I really need to be running cleaners every other tank of gas? Also wondering if using non ethanol gas would fix this problem. I did run 1 tank of non-ethanol but didn't notice a difference and since non-ethanol costs more than premium I went back to regular. I will try a fuel cleaner though?
I have a 2012 F-150 Platinum 6.2L. Every morning after a cold start, I get this humming sound until the engine heats up. It does seem to get a little quieter when I'm moving but not much. This only happens after the first start of the day and has only started doing this since it's been cold (20-30 F).
YouTube ......
I have a 2012 F150 5.0 I just bought a couple weeks ago. I have a metallic ticking sound when cold, you can hear it when it idles down, but once driven and hot it is more faint but still there. Its not the injectors, Ive checked that.
Ive seen it posted in various forums but no cause mentioned. Ive had it in to the dealership and they are waiting for Ford to get back to them on what to do but I fear they will say its normal. My friends 2013 doesn't do it at all.
Listen to whole video, wait until the camera was placed on tire and its idled down to hear it. Its louder in real life but not extreme loud.
[URL] ....
It seems that my 09 F150 has developed a troubling noise... I'm looking for any cam phaser. I'm at 116,712mi. 5.4L motor of course.
On cold start, I hear about 2 seconds of "clatter" - sounds like something is "loose" on top of the motor. At hot idle, I hear the classic "diesel" idle, indicative of the cam phaser issue. In gear, the rattle intensifies and is very noticeable around 1000RPM.
Other than the noises, the truck runs great - like new.
Here's a video: [URL] ....
Under hood, under hood close up, driver's wheel well, interior, then interior in gear. You'll need to crank the volume to hear the last two.
Best I can tell, this is not an exhaust manifold issue. So, what say you? Cam phasers?
5.0 coyote exhaust leak .. Since the cold weather has arrived i have noticed a new noise. During cold start engine warm up I hear a nice little tick-tick-tick which sounds to me like an exhaust leak. Is this a common problem? I have just over 58,000 miles would this be covered under powertrain or do they have some nice exclusions for exhaust?
View 9 RepliesFront hubs are making a clicking noise pull in 4x4 and it quits also when pulling camper or boat quits make noise when you let off the gas could this be a vacuum line issue or automatic hub issue?
View 2 RepliesMy 2011 F150 5.0 was bought used a year ago, and ran like new. A few months ago, several things started acting up.
* clicking at idle. Just a tick-tick-tick-tick kinda like a diesel. I swear it just started, but the dealer tells me it's "normal".
* Oil - I'm "losing" about a half quart a month. No leaks. 1500 miles after a change, it's dingy. (not dirty just brown) Dealer tells me it's "normal" that these trucks consume a little oil and that it will get dirty.
All that I could ignore but this is what bothers me:
The truck seems to struggle, mildly, to maintain speed on hills. It'll drop to 1k rpms before downshifting. Just a pig. Of course if I stomp it to the floor I get a good response, but it is just sluggish and wimpy when driving "normally". Also, when maintaining speed, there's a barely noticeable missing/slipping happening. When I pull a couple thousand pounds it really struggles.
This is happening. Three dealers tell me there's nothing wrong with the truck. After pressing the first dealer they admitted they never drove the truck. The second dealer called me to pick it up because nothing was wrong and also admitted to not having driven it. After I demanded they drive it, they called back still saying nothing is wrong. "The computer would show it if there was a problem." The third dealer has it now, drove it this morning, guess what? "There's nothing wrong, maybe you can come and show us."
I cannot believe the industry has lost the ability to diagnose vehicles beyond what a computer tells them. Do techs not check compression or ignition or fuel pressure any more? Seems to me a valve issue for example could be the cause of all my symptoms, or fuel delivery, or weak spark, none of which would show up on the freaking computer.
Coyote 5.0 engine and the 6R80 trans.
Having an issue with the 09 Platinum 5.4. Recently the air ducts to the passenger side have been routed straight to hell. The blow hot regardless of the setting, the driver side is fine. I can hear a clicking noise that gets faster/louder with the fan speed on the passenger side. I am thinking blend door motor? Possible location of this part and some replacement instructions? Wife and kids aren't digging this hot heat all the time, its a very uncomfortable ride in such a great truck!
View 4 RepliesI have a 2013 Lariat with 135K miles. Yesterday started a loud and consistent clicking under the center dash. When I turn the heater up to 77 degrees or above it stops. I have dual AC controls and the passenger side will now occasionally blow hot compared to the driver side when I have them on the same temperature.
Based on what I have researched I need to replace my heater blend door. Need to confirm if this sounds correct? Are there different blend doors for driver vs. passenger side repair?
As importantly I am looking for a good set of instructions on how to gain access to the heater blend door motor in order to take care of the replacement myself. My understanding is it is a $40 part buy may be heavy on services due to access. My 2013 is stocked with the sync touch screen / navigation option .....
Our summers typically hover in the 90's and the winters in the 40's. Each year we typically get a good cols snap and it drops in the teens at night and 20's-30's during the day.
Earlier this winter we had a week long episode of colder than normal weather which hung in the low 30's all day and teens at night.
The avg MPG's on my truck for mixed driving dropped from the 18+ that I normally enjoy to around 16.5. When the weather returned to normal for us, my MPG's returned to normal as well.
Have any of you noticed any serious climatic swings in your MPG's?
Yes, I know that vehicles normally burn more fuel in the winter but the info screen on my truck drives that point home.
So yesterday When I unlocked via remote my drivers side mirror moved all the way to the right and started clicking. Like it was stripping the gears sound. Getting back in the truck the mirror moved fully every direction with switch on door. But the next time same thing, moved to the right and counted 3 clicks ! Happened 3 times yesterday.
I have a 68,000 miles on my 2009 s-crew lariat with most of the toys. Including memory seats. Some research pointed to drivers seat control module OR an orange with green stripe wire that may be broken at a splice off of the fuse box at location 3. However the wire thing I found was on a previous generation f150 and expedition, so I don't know if it applies.
I also noticed that when I went to program the mirror back to my setting by holding down the memory 1 button, it only beeped once. If memory serves me correct I thought when you hold desired memory button down for @5-10 seconds it should beep twice to set everything to that remote. So that's as far as I went.
I have noticed that on my 2012 5.0 Screw that the A/C isn't very cold. It is no where near as cold as my last truck, or any of a number of late model cars I have driven. If it's over 85 and I have it set to auto (70 degrees) it will never get there and just run full tilt the whole day. Even if you select Max A/C and blow it on you you will never have to turn the fan down from being cold as in other cars.
View 14 RepliesSo after remotely starting my truck on a cold morning, I walk up to the vehicle and notice a small puddle of water near the middle of the truck (not near the engine where the A/C usually drips), and I can also hear a slight ticking noise that I never heard before. I stoop down and can see water dripping from the exhaust (I think off the back of the resonator?). I snap a few pics and decide I'll take a closer look later, but curiously when I return from my drive, the leak and noise are gone.
With 76K miles on the truck, is it possible I've developed a pinhole sized perforation or leak in the factory exhaust system (or maybe there's a loose fitting) that is only present when the engine is cold, but "seals" itself up once the engine is warm and the metal has expanded? I only see the water puddle and hear the noise when remotely starting the truck on cold mornings, never on warm days or after driving around town.
I have a 2011 FX4 F-150. My truck is parked in a garage at night, but obviously sits outside during the day while I'm at work. Almost every single day when it gets cold outside (probably 30 degrees or less), I climb into my truck late in the afternoon and the front brakes shutter like there's ice formation on the rotors. You can actually feel (in the pedal) and hear the rotation of that presumptive "ice" turn on the rotor and touch the pads. It usually "burns" off in just a few hundred feet, and the rest of the drive home is perfect.
BUT, sometimes that shutter is so bad that it sets off all the "check brakes", etc. type warnings on the dash. And I usually have to shut the truck off and back on to get those warnings to stop. Again, it's definitely related to the cold and there's something on the rotors or pads up front causing it. It apparently melts off almost immediately, but not before I have to use the brakes a couple of times just to get out of the parking lot, and it NEVER happens in warmer weather. The pads and rotors up front are new with lots of wear life left on them, and they are OEM Motorcraft pads.
I have a 2010 F150 with the 4.62v. I bought it new in March '11 and have used either MC 5w20 or Pennzoil 5w20 and MC filters, changing every 5k since new. When cold (30deg F or below) the right side has a loud ticking, until it has run for approx 1 minute. Since it is a 2v, cam phasers should not be a part of the problem. What the issue could be. It has just over 36k now, so the powertrain warranty should still be valid.
View 10 RepliesI posted about this back when I bought it back in Feb. and I thought the problem worked itself out but its back. When the temperature drops below 55 degrees or so, coming from the passenger side of the engine there is a chugging or knocking sound, more so when RPMs are high.
I had no issues with it all summer, but now that the temperature is dropping I noticed its back. Is this something I should worry about? What could be causing this? I had the same engine in my 07 and it never did this.
Still considering the change from my '08 F250 to a newer F150 with the EcoBoost. I have been driving as many of them as I can to get a feel for them. My current question is this: if one exhibits the dreaded rattle at cold startup, does it always get worse with more time/miles? I found another one that I'm pretty happy with overall, but it does have the startup rattle for about a second at cold start, and only at cold start. Is it worth the gamble, or should I keep looking? It's got about 108k miles and is otherwise in fantastic condition...
View 8 RepliesIt's a 2011 xlt ecoboost with 14000 miles. Just started getting bad where it literally jars the whole truck. It only does it once. After I'm in 2nd then go back to 1st at a stop, it shifts fine back into 2nd. If I let it warm up for around 10 minutes or so it doesn't happen.
View 6 Replies