Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Clicking At Idle - Sluggish / Missing / Slipping?
Mar 31, 2017
My 2011 F150 5.0 was bought used a year ago, and ran like new. A few months ago, several things started acting up.
* clicking at idle. Just a tick-tick-tick-tick kinda like a diesel. I swear it just started, but the dealer tells me it's "normal".
* Oil - I'm "losing" about a half quart a month. No leaks. 1500 miles after a change, it's dingy. (not dirty just brown) Dealer tells me it's "normal" that these trucks consume a little oil and that it will get dirty.
All that I could ignore but this is what bothers me:
The truck seems to struggle, mildly, to maintain speed on hills. It'll drop to 1k rpms before downshifting. Just a pig. Of course if I stomp it to the floor I get a good response, but it is just sluggish and wimpy when driving "normally". Also, when maintaining speed, there's a barely noticeable missing/slipping happening. When I pull a couple thousand pounds it really struggles.
This is happening. Three dealers tell me there's nothing wrong with the truck. After pressing the first dealer they admitted they never drove the truck. The second dealer called me to pick it up because nothing was wrong and also admitted to not having driven it. After I demanded they drive it, they called back still saying nothing is wrong. "The computer would show it if there was a problem." The third dealer has it now, drove it this morning, guess what? "There's nothing wrong, maybe you can come and show us."
I cannot believe the industry has lost the ability to diagnose vehicles beyond what a computer tells them. Do techs not check compression or ignition or fuel pressure any more? Seems to me a valve issue for example could be the cause of all my symptoms, or fuel delivery, or weak spark, none of which would show up on the freaking computer.
Coyote 5.0 engine and the 6R80 trans.
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2011 XLT 5.0 Coyote. Truck has a performance problem - it's missing almost unnoticeable at idle, but it's obvious (if you care to notice) when you hold the throttle barely open. Idle seems smooth, but if I hold it at about 1500 rpms, it most clearly and definitely is missing.
However, since there are "no codes" and since mode shows "no misfires". This really manifests itself when I'm towing a 6k pound trailer and the truck can't pull it up a 2% grade unless I drop it into 3rd gear. Of course, if I drive it like a race car it's a beast. But I can't leave rubber at every red light, especially when towing.
Fuel trims look fine (ST bounces between -4 to +4, LT sits right at +0.5). Cleaned the TB. Cleaned the MAF. Brand new Motorcraft plugs gapped at .045. CHT sensors read 205 on one bank and 198 on the other. Coolant sensor seems find. Haven't done a voltage test, but TPS data in the OBD seems smooth.
How to test the coil packs (neither does Ford). They want me to replace all 8, but I'm not doing that unless I can see real evidence a coil pack is bad.
I'm no novice however I'm losing my mind that "everything is normal" yet the truck so clearly has a problem. This has been going on for months and I'm at my wits end.
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2012 F-150 5.0 Rough Idle Upon Start up - YouTube
Whenever I first start my 2012 F-150 with the 5.0, it idles rough and if I step on the gas it acts like either an injector is cutting in and out or it's missing. It doesn't really seem like a miss though, more like an injector/fuel issue. What it could be. If I let it sit and idle it won't go away unless I step on the gas and get it > 2500rpm or so.
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I have recently purchased a 2011 F150 Ext cab with 3.5L ecoboost with 69k miles. I have no experience with these engines prior to now. I've always wanted a full size truck and after driving my 98 S10 for 17 years, I decided it was time for a new truck. I hope I made the right choice in going for the 3.5 instead of 5.0.
On to my question. I've noticed that the truck hesitates from a dead stop or anytime the RPM's are under 1k. It feels like its missing or running lean/rich during the spin up of RPM's. When I drive it hard, it does seem to subside for a little, and I've heard people say that they run better when run hard. I can attest to that, but is this hesitation normal for an almost 70k mile engine? I am getting 15ish MPG on almost all city driving since I have bought it, but I do expect that to change (job hunting and current commute is less than 2 miles each way).
The only time I get to open it up is when I go run errands out of the immediate local area or visiting friends and family. On one of those trips, before I noticed the hesitation, I attempted to accelerate from 60 to pass on the expressway and it bucked and resisted like a horse. It finally took off up to 80 and completed that journey with no issue but the check engine light came on for a bit. The check engine light went off when I shut it down and hasn't come back on since.
New ride: 2011 3.5L Ecoboost....
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I didn't pick up the Raptor--passed on it for other reasons. I still have my 2010 that I bought with an extended warranty--I'm too old to play with them anymore and rather have everything covered.
When I bought my truck it was a factory certified pre-own so I got the 100k warranty plus an extended bumper-bumper coverage.
With that said I have the 5.4L engine and I've noticed here recently that's it is quite sluggish at times. I've read and most say put a tuner on it--in the past I would be all over that. My old 6L Diesel had a tuner but of course during that time I was all for blowing up engines and replacing them. Now not so much.
I noticed that the previous owner threw a damn Airaid intake on it -- I feel like the Airaid is really screwing crap up. I'm wondering if I should just buy the pieces I need to go back to a stock airbox?
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Experiencing sluggish throttle response on the EFI Ecoboost? I have had several incidents where I'm needing to change lanes fast and the response is a dead second or two before the motor catches up to the throttle position. Then, it rockets forward at full throttle to catch up. By that time it's too late to change lanes and I have to be on the brakes hard to keep from rear ending the guy in front of me. I'm coming from a carburetored Toyota Tacoma that was far more responsive (minus the power) then this truck. I never felt hesitant to jump on it and go. Now I feel like my life depends on waiting until I have all day to change lanes, make a left turn or pass a slow moving vehicle on a two lane road. Is this something the dealer can adjust?
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I bought a 2011 Ecoboost F150 last week. I test drove the crap out of it, and was pleased with it. Go figure, get it home and within a few days, when I put a little foot into it to respond to a call (vol. firefighter) it does the crazy buck me around bit. I do some looking around here and get a little paranoid about the water ingestion thing. It did throw make the CEL flash for 30 secs or so. Then I dig some more and see these things eat spark plugs. I am sitting at 86k miles on it, so I figure, let's try the simple first.
I go pick up some Motocraft plugs and within two mediocre innings of listening to the Angels play, I am finished. I take it out for a test drive, and oh my goodness... the difference. I couldn't get it to buck around or anything. I got on the highway and really got on it, to test and see... no problems whatsoever. Checking the gap on the plugs that came off, they were all between .045 and .050. Moral of my first post.... don't underestimate the importance of the basic maintenance items.
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When speeds are 40-50 mph range and then back off a bit to get back up to speed it reacts very slow. Will get up to highway speeds on an easy acceleration, but when I try to get back up to speeds quickly or catch up then truck is sluggish and slow to react. Was told it may be a stretched drivetrain? Is that possible?
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I have a new 2011 F150 4x4 6.2 liter with about 1200 miles, 6R80 6 speed Transmission. I haven't liked the shift quality since buying a little over a month ago. I think the upshift from first to second is kind of rough and it feels like it's slipping a little from second to third gear. I've read a lot of negative posts/reviews on the 6R80 transmission, and some people have said it got better over time, or it got better with more aggressive driving. I do notice it shifts better if I drive it a little harder. The build date according to the sticker is 4/11 and I don't think there are any TSB's for PCM updates for this year/engine/model. I'm wondering if I should bring the truck in now for the dealer to take a look or drive it for awhile longer to see if it gets better?
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I have a 2012 Ford 4x4 crew cab 150 xlt. 15,000 miles. When pulling my dump trailer I was stopping to turn and the transmission disengaged. Once I turned the corner coasting the transmission kicked back in again. During this happening pushing the gas did nothing but rev up engine. My dealer said if this happened that a warning light would of came on or a wrench would appear on dash but it didn't. He said then it didn't happen. This happened 3 times in 10 miles of driving. I had it in tow mode.
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I have a 2011 F-150 with the v-6 automatic. The truck has just under 45,000 miles on it. Couple of times I have started it up in the morning to head to work, and when I put it in gear(fwd or reverse) it seems to slip at first. It does it just the one time, then it will be fine. It only happens in the morning after sitting for the night and when it is cooler(Arizona here so hasn't gotten much cooler than the 50's at night so far). I need to take the truck in for another issue, but thought I would ask on here first.
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Well it's been 300 miles since Ford applied their "special grease" and put on clamps to eliminate the clunk when slowing and the slipping feeling at take off. Now the clunk is back. Every time at 25 it downshifts and clunks, then once again at 10. Drives me nuts. My service advisor wants me to "log" these visits so we can be more aggressive with Ford to get this resolved. I love the truck, but this is annoying driveline slop. Almost like the splines weren't cut right and Ford is using heavy grease to fill the gaps......developing...
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I have a 2010 ford f150 with a 4.6 engine. it has developed a loud noise like a diesel on steroids and also sounds like its going to fly apart and it also misses when it does this . now this is how I have narrowed it down to make it happen because it does not do it all the time. it mainly does it to and from longer trips like 45 minutes or more then coming into traffic to a crawl or idle it will start making the noise . also when I pull into my drive and go from drive to reverse and go to back up it will also make the noise. I have no lights on the dash or codes. could this be a coil pack ? I had a coil go a few years back but it acted up under load on a hill and just missed with no noise.
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The truck always ran perfect till two days ago. went to start it in the middle of the day , it would barely start, when it did it was missing bad. then seemed to clear up a little after about 30 seconds but still missing. they thought they got some bad fuel. so they dropped the tank cleaned it all out and got new fuel, no change.
Him and a so called mechanic "kid from fire stone" played around switching coil packs around from the injectors with no change. He tells me that the two front cylinders , one on each side are not firing. that those two spark plugs are coming out fuel soaked after running the truck. He thinks it dropped a lifter or push rod popped out of place.
I took my A/E over and came up with codes p0106 - map sensor, and p0135 - 02 sensor. i cleared them and started the truck, shut it back off ran codes again. He also said they pulled the 02 sensor and it still ran the same.
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I purchased my 2012 EB used with 35k miles on it. at about 42k I had the condensation issue happen when passing several RV's in a mountain pass. I took the truck to the dealer I purchased it from and they did the TSB13-8-1 Fix to it. I noticed right away that I had lost some power (I was very saddened).
I also have Noticed that I lost about 2.5-3 MPG. Since the work was done I still have a shudder that feels a lot like the transmission is slipping when I mash the go peddle. this does not happen every time but I would say it does happen better then 50% of the time at highway speeds trying to pass slower rigs or getting up to speed to enter the highway.
My question is has ford updated the TSB's for the 2012 EB F150's lately? I love this Truck, it is the only vehicle (besides my motorcycle) I have owned to date that I was not tired of after about 6 month's. I hope when I take the truck back to the shop next week that there is a fix that works that I get my MPG's and power back and that lets me drive it the way it should be driven.
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I bought a 2010 f150 from the company I work for.... It had a blown front diff, when I bought it, I just put a complete front diff assembly and front drive shaft on it. Thought I was golden, but when I accelerate fast there is a slipping/ snapping noise which sounds like it's coming from transfer case area... Accelerate slow and steady up to highway speeds it doesn't happen. This problem only happens in four wheel drive.... what this could be!???
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I have a 2012 4x4 EB CC. In 6th gear, on the highway between 1200-1700 RPM's, during a slow acceleration, it feels like it is missing or shuddering. It is most pronounced going up a hill, and/or towing something. As soon as you get above about 1700, it goes away. Rig needs to be fully warmed up (not just the engine, but tranny/drivetrain). Needless to say, this is generally from about 52-65 mph, which is most highway (not freeway) driving I do. At times it's so bad my wife says it's time to get a Chebby.
Had it in about a year ago, couldn't duplicate it. Took it in this last week. Did the TSB on the plugs, and was told that would fix it. It didn't. Took it back in; they couldn't duplicate the issue. Rotated the tires hoping that might do something. Took the head service guy for a ride, and made it happen; it was very obvious then. It seems like the tachometer should bounce or shudder a bit when it's doing it, but nothing. It's going back in on Monday to see what they can do.
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What would cause a clicking sound when it is cold outside. When the temperature is -20 Celsius the truck makes a loud clicking sound upon acceleration. When the truck is at idle it goes away. When the truck warms up it goes away. What this might be?
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Front hubs are making a clicking noise pull in 4x4 and it quits also when pulling camper or boat quits make noise when you let off the gas could this be a vacuum line issue or automatic hub issue?
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So yesterday afternoon I went outside and started my truck up. Upon starting it up and flipping the AC to high I noticed a clicking sound coming from somewhere inside my dashboard. It did not change in rhythm regardless of what setting the blower was on. But it remained for a couple of minutes before it subsided.
For the record it wasn't a subtle clicking...It was a very obvious sound. After the noise went away I continued to use the AC and it worked just fine like it always has. What it could have been? 2011 F-150
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Lately I have been having problems loosing power. Truck wants to miss mostly going up hill and runs sluggish I'll pull off the road and let it idle for a minute and it will run fine. And it is only occasionally some days it don't happen at all and other days it happens quit often. New fuel filter, oil is good, had it on the scanner and isn't throwing any codes. Around 230k miles newer injectors.
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