Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Check Engine Light Came On While Towing - Code P0299
Jul 5, 2016
He has a 2013 F-150 XLT with the Ecoboost. He has 29,000 miles on the truck.
He is ~1,300 miles into his trip; and has about another 4,500 to go! On Friday, his check engine light came on (while towing). The next day it went back off. Yesterday, the light came back on (while not towing this time). He took the truck into a Ford Dealer in Rapid City, SD this morning. The CEL light was still on this morning when he arrived at the dealership. The dealership said the code is P0299 - Turbo Underboost.
They said they've run tests and can find nothing wrong. Naturally, he is not very happy being this far from home with 3 more weeks of vacation left and his truck acting up. Especially since the CEL light is on but the dealer can find nothing wrong. I'd be puckered-up too!
Experienced this Turbo Underboost condition? What was the cause? How can the CEL light be on but the dealership not be able to find a problem?
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I have a 2011 ecoboost with 69000 miles and I am starting to get the dreaded P0016 code along with the occasional P0299. I am almost done making payments on it but I am hesitant about sinking the kind of money that it takes to repair the timing issues. SO the big question, is it worth keeping and making the repair or should I trade it and get a new 2016??
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I have a 2009 ford f150 4.6l 3v v8 standard cab with about 53k miles on it.
Recently the check engine light came on so i went to autozone to have the codes pulled for free, it says i have a small evaporative leak.
They said may be the gas cap, but the thing is, i have a quick fill cap that came in stock with truck so the gas cap isnt even needed.
I've looked under the hood, and noticed that there is little pool of oil on top of the valley of the engine on the passenger side of the engine, could it possibly be the PCV hose that is bad and be related to the evaporative leak code? or its unrelated and i have a bad gasket for the valve cover?
It isn't affecting the performance of the engine,.. yet. I have a road trip for my work coming up very soon and i wanted to try to fix it before then.
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For the last few months my truck has been throwing an intermittent check engine light due to the same code every time - P0171. The dealer has allegedly checked everything and has given me the "We have done all we can do" speech. Lead tech even suggested that since today's fuels have alcohol in them, that a check engine light would be normal. The truck has been in the shop 3 times with no success or even remote possibility of what the problem could be.
The check engine light has since gone from intermittent to constant and comes back on after 5 drive cycles after clearing with an OBD2 scanner. Also, I'm now getting a P0174 code.
Personally, I think they're trying to blow me off because I'm a few months and about 2k miles away from being out of CPO warranty.
Truck is a 2013 F150 Super crew 2wd 5.0 with about 45k miles.
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Have towed or driven Class C MH for years, now have 2014 F150 Ecoboost. Pulls great.
Question: while towing up long incline, engine got hot, shot message through dash saying truck would shift gears to ovoid overheating. I have read I should lock out 5 and 6 on slow steady climbs. If I am in tow mode and want to downshift, how do I do that? I know I can shift entire thing to 2nd gear - but I assume that is not what we are talking about here. On this particular climb it was hot (100 out) and I was blocked in left lane going slower than I would have liked. RPMs were low.
Looking for detailed description of process. I also regularly use Tow/Haul. Sometimes on decline I will downshift to 2nd or 1st and not use brakes at all going down.
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I have a 2013 F150 6.2L and it wont start. It was running great and when I drove it around the corner it just shut down no clunk no warning just bam shut off. I had a engine code P0355 ( which indicated cylinder 5 coil malfunction). changed the coil and it will not fire the engine code has gone away but it will still not fire. I changed the oil just to be safe and no metal shavings in it.... Turns over just fine but will not fire. I added more fuel just to be safe ( thinking maybe I had bad fuel but that didn't work either.
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My 2009 f150 5.4 v8 went from 18 MPG to 13 MPG and the check engine light is on?
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2010 F-150 5.4L 3V gas, 6 speed auto, 2WD.
I got a Bully Dog GT Platinum Gas with plans to purchase a tune from 5starturning. Was messing around and loaded the built in 05-10 Ford Gas tune in Bully Dog... all went well.
Take it for a drive around and next thing I see is my check engine light is on so back to the house and revert back to the factory file... again, all went well.
No such luck; still have the check engine light and the Bully Dog says there are no DTC codes. Needless to say, I'm a bit freaked out.
I have tried uninstalling the Bully Dog tune and reverting to factory file and still no luck.
I think I would feel better about it if I could just find some comment saying "this is common just unhook the battery and reset and go on your merry way".
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Purchased certified pre owned 2009 f150 may/2010 24,000 mile. The check engine light intermittently comes and goes. It seems that its either cold temperature or related to filling the gas tank. The first time it appeared I drove 100 mile then the truck sat over the weekend and went back off when started. The second time had serviced for the check light and the dealer diagnostic pin pointed P0304, P0305, P0300 and P0316 and replaced cyl 4&5 coils.
Prior to the replacement of the coils the truck averaged 18.2 mpg since the repair the mpg dropped to 17.6 and now at 17.2mpg. Had the truck in again and the light was on when I made the appointment but went back off when I went to the dealer. They said the reset the computer. The light twice has since went on and then back off after a couple days. The only observation is that the outside temperature on both occurrences has been below freezing and that I had filled up the tank.
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After about 5 miles from my normal place to purchase fuel, My truck bagan to run bad and the check engine light kicked on. Mileage dropped to about 8 MPG. This morning, the truck would not start and after 2 can's of dry gas, I was able to start it (barely).
I stopped at the place where I purchased fuel and at least they admitted that they has to shut down yesterday, stating they received a bad batch of fuel from their source.
Now the fun begins...How do I get the "bad gas" out of my truck?. I now have about 1/4th of a tank. I tried to run a line to siphon the gas and I can not get a line far enough into the tank.
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2011 eb just turned 36k. Today on breezeway it shuddered like it swallowed a bird, and check engine light flashed on. Went to see customer left and light was off. Back on breezeway and shuddered on entrance ramp so this time I stayed into it so either there's a light that will stay on or just launch it and this time the dealer will have something to fix that they can diagnose. Check engine light is on its fine as long as I stay out of the pedal. Still have 8 months left on power train warranty but what am I looking at for a diagnose, there is definitely a problem now. What the dealership should see?
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Truck: 2009 F-150 Lariat SCrew 5.4 4x4 with 6.5" bed
For the last few years, I've had this intermittent problem where the service engine light (wrench icon) will pop on and the truck will go into limp home mode. While it's in this mode, all of the indicators on the dash freak out. Low fuel warning will come on, temperature warning, low battery voltage, etc. Turning the truck off and back on (sometimes a couple times) is enough to get it back to normal, albeit with a check engine light that needs to be cleared. It's happened infrequent enough that I've just been dealing with it. I got the codes a couple years back, but there wasn't much information available on what the potential causes might be. The Checker Auto parts database suggested one might be related to a wheel speed sensor.
Well, this afternoon it happened again, and I was near an O'Reilly, so I took it in to pull the codes. There were 9 total in the system; 5 of which were unique:
B0025
B00D5
U0073
U0100
U0253
They didn't have any information on what was causing them. What could be causing this. I'm getting sick of having to clear the check engine light and worry about the truck falling into limp home mode when I'm at intersections.
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I took delivery of my 2012 FX4 Eco in January and about a month or so later I began experiencing a loss of power and the check engine light would come on then go off again. This happened the first time in Houston traffic one day so I was pretty concerned needless to say but then it cleared itself shortly thereafter. However, heading back home it occurred again on the highway while I was trying to pass and she just didn't have the power. I took it to a Houston dealer late in the afternoon before I left but no codes were found and when I got it back to my local dealer it was determined the left side catalytic converter was bad and it was subsequently replaced. Well, it happened again and it's back in the shop while I am offshore so they have plenty of time to take care of it.
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2001 F350 290,000 no mods other than 6637, 2WD
Towed our new to us RV home last, only 15 miles from the dealer and yes its a big 5th for my truck at 12,000lbs. Anyhow, about 2 mins from home as I'm pulling off the freeway I got a SES light come up, then it disappeared. I checked codes this morning using forscan and nothing shows to indicate what it may be.
I was wondering if the transmission is getting hot if it throws an SES? It was only a short trip, but I have no real idea of the condition of the trans as the truck is new to us too - fluid looks and smells good.
Only new code is an ABS one c1229, c1233, C1234. I had 2 of them before - think the 1229 is the new one.
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I have a 2009 Corolla S w/ 79K miles on it and recently my check engine light came on with the trouble code P0352. The engine would misfire while accelerating and then was extremely rough when at a stop light. This issue and check engine light have been happening intermittently over the last few days. I don't really know anything about engines/cars but doing some research came back with the following...
Possible causes
- Faulty Ignition Coil 2
- Ignition Coil 2 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Basically my question is how do I troubleshoot and figure out what the real problem is? I would rather not buy and replace the Ignition Coil if it is something else. From everything I have seen it seems the simplest method to test the coil is to switch out the ignition coil and spark plug on coil 2 with one of the other 3 ignition coils and see if the the trouble code follows it or stays on 2.
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After taking my 2009 Corolla S to the dealer on 4/07 for an oil change, about 4 or 5 days later the check engine light, the traction control light, and the VSC light come on (VSC off blinks). The first day it came on, I took it to autozone to look the code up and they said it was P0353 (issue with ignition coil c I think). I immediately afterwards drove to the dealer to see what they would say. But after parking in their garage speaking with the greeters, they said the light wasnt on, and asked if I wanted to wait the 2 hours to see a tech. So I took it home.
The code came back about 3 days later, and this time there was a slight stall/jolt for about 4 or 5 seconds. This occured on startup and not during driving. After the 4 or 5 seconds of the mild jolting it felt like it was running smooth. I took it home and after leaving it off for about 20 minutes, the light went out again. A couple days later it came back and stayed on over night and was still present when I started it the next day. It went off again later that day.
My question is what could be causing this that might be a simple fix. Do toyota techs check anything with the spark plugs during normal Oil Changes? I know they checked my brakes but Im not a car guy and am not really sure all that they do. Could it be a loose spark plug? Code P0353 coming up sporadically after dealer Oil change. Is there any steps they normally do during the oil change that could be causing this, like leaving a spark plug loose after checking them or something? Would the coil / wiring harness fall under an engine warranty?
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I am far from home. Taking a road trip. Day 2 out of 6. My check engine light came on, so I just pulled over. All fluids were fine. Found some place to read the code:
P2757 TCC pressure control Sol Ckt Perf / Stuck off
The guy said it was something to do with trans.
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Check engine light came on. Codes are P0300, P0302, P0304. Plugs were previously changed. Plugs look good. Changed both coils. Light still one. Injectors also previously cleaned. What else should we check for? Valves hanging? Anything else to check for?
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My check engine light keeps coming on sporadically and giving me a PO101 error code...then I'll reset it after making sure my MPG hasn't dipped a significant amount (which is my "concrete" way of gauging if it's performance is impaired) and it'll come on 1-600 miles later. There's no consistency in environment or conditions that are triggering this sensor, at least it's not obvious to me. I finally looked under the hood at the filter and it's a little dirty, but not nearly dark enough for it to be the problem.
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I have a 2103 F150(5500 miles) and a 2013 Ranger Z522 bass boat( 23'-4800 lbs 3000 miles). I get that ole strange vibration between 60 and 65 when towing) My tire dealer balanced all 8 wheels for me. I tried to get my truck to do it by itself but did not notice. It does not do it all the time. I'm going to say about 1/2 the time it does it and then it will not. It only does it at that speed range which to me at one time was a wheel balance problem.
When it does it i can see the head of my trolling motor on my boat vibrate with it. I did try to give the truck a little power to see if it effects it. It did not. I did this because back in the 80's i had a truck that the drive shaft was a little out of balance. Power to the drive chain would effect it enough that you could notice. I've tried to get the truck to do it by itself but can't.
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2011 Ford f350 6.7 diesel ... Is this a problem we need to have fixed?
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