Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Chatter / Buzzing Noise While Towing
Apr 9, 2016
2010 F150 - 5.4L ... I encountered a disturbing chatter/buzzing noise while towing recently. I have not towed a lot with this truck but recently bought a 8.5x18 enclosed car hauler and have towed the trailer about 3000 miles so far. Twice I have experienced a chattering noise from the transmission under very specific conditions. Was traveling on a long flat road at about 70 MPH in 5th gear at about 2100 rpm when it started. If I let off the noise would instantly go away.
If I accelerated and went into 4th the frequency and tone of the chatter would not change with either RPM or speed, however, when I let off it would go away. It is almost impossible to reproduce because it has to be flat. It did once start to chatter in 4th when I was pushing a strong headwind at about 70 MPH and 3000 RPM.
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I have a sporadic problem with my wipers - most of the time they run correct but sometimes there is an annoying chatter - I have the Bosch replacements and they run well even when dry but every once in a while they start chattering. One time the wiper blade even fell off.....if I go to the dealer, they want to see the problem but if it is sporadic they can do nothing (had a problem with a speaker and it took 3 tries before they heard the defect) - what was the solution?
2012 5.0 Lariat
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I have a 2103 F150(5500 miles) and a 2013 Ranger Z522 bass boat( 23'-4800 lbs 3000 miles). I get that ole strange vibration between 60 and 65 when towing) My tire dealer balanced all 8 wheels for me. I tried to get my truck to do it by itself but did not notice. It does not do it all the time. I'm going to say about 1/2 the time it does it and then it will not. It only does it at that speed range which to me at one time was a wheel balance problem.
When it does it i can see the head of my trolling motor on my boat vibrate with it. I did try to give the truck a little power to see if it effects it. It did not. I did this because back in the 80's i had a truck that the drive shaft was a little out of balance. Power to the drive chain would effect it enough that you could notice. I've tried to get the truck to do it by itself but can't.
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Just bought a new diesel pusher RV. Want to flat tow my 2013 4x4 Lariet . Looking for examples in flat towing. Is it too big of a vehicle? How stable is it? Please give me your thoughts.
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Experiencing a vibration when starting out with a load behind the truck, I have a 2012 supercrew with 6.5' box.
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Have towed or driven Class C MH for years, now have 2014 F150 Ecoboost. Pulls great.
Question: while towing up long incline, engine got hot, shot message through dash saying truck would shift gears to ovoid overheating. I have read I should lock out 5 and 6 on slow steady climbs. If I am in tow mode and want to downshift, how do I do that? I know I can shift entire thing to 2nd gear - but I assume that is not what we are talking about here. On this particular climb it was hot (100 out) and I was blocked in left lane going slower than I would have liked. RPMs were low.
Looking for detailed description of process. I also regularly use Tow/Haul. Sometimes on decline I will downshift to 2nd or 1st and not use brakes at all going down.
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Today while towing a 10ft trailer with a golf cart my truck seemed kind of under powered.It has the 5.0 with 3.73 rear end.When I got to where I was going I looked under my truck and there were spots all over the rear end and axle and frame that looked like oil or transmission fluid. I cannot find any noticeable leaks. The air temp today was 100 and the transmission gauge stayed around 200.
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I have a 2013 F150 Ecobost. It is a 4 door 4x4 with the single rear drive shaft. When I pull my boat I get a very strange vibration between 60 and 70 MPH Mostly around 65. I had my balance checked all around on truck( not by Ford dealer) and took my Bass boat to the factory and had them go thru all the wheels and balance. It worked but I still have vibration. When I'm pulling the boat and the vibration starts I can see the trolling motor shaking on the front of the boat. At this time I do not think it is the boat. I have a tongue weight of about 350 Lbs. Having problems with F150 with a little load on the rear. Truck and boat are both new with low mileage.
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He has a 2013 F-150 XLT with the Ecoboost. He has 29,000 miles on the truck.
He is ~1,300 miles into his trip; and has about another 4,500 to go! On Friday, his check engine light came on (while towing). The next day it went back off. Yesterday, the light came back on (while not towing this time). He took the truck into a Ford Dealer in Rapid City, SD this morning. The CEL light was still on this morning when he arrived at the dealership. The dealership said the code is P0299 - Turbo Underboost.
They said they've run tests and can find nothing wrong. Naturally, he is not very happy being this far from home with 3 more weeks of vacation left and his truck acting up. Especially since the CEL light is on but the dealer can find nothing wrong. I'd be puckered-up too!
Experienced this Turbo Underboost condition? What was the cause? How can the CEL light be on but the dealership not be able to find a problem?
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I have a 09 f150 with 160,000 on it. For the last couple months I was hearing an occasional buzzing sound from the engine compartment. Couldn't duplicate it while not driving. The buzzing sound has changed somewhat but it's follow by a grinding sound that seems like the hubs are trying to lock while in 2 wheel drive. I think the buzzing is coming from either the IWE solenoid or the vacuum check valve. My question is this. If I pull the vacuum line off the the solenoid and plug the line will the hubs remain locked till I can dig into this a little deeper. I was thinking that they would stay locked. I should still be able to shift in and out of 4 wheel drive correct?
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So I went into my garage last night to shut the door. I heard a slight buzzing/humming noise coming from the car. I narrowed the noise to under the truck of the vehicle. It sounded like a fuel pump was running. I don't know when it started, but it was about 5 hours after the car was driven last. After a little research, I found this in the manual page 8:
"Approximately five hours after the engine is turned off, you may hear sound coming from under the vehicle for several minutes. This is the sound of a fuel evaporation leakage check and it does not indicate a malfunction."
I started my car and it stopped after that. Could this be The case of why some people have dead batteries on the 2014? Maybe this runs to frequently or stays on too long?
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This morning I heard a "strange" buzzing noise coming from the rear of the vehicle and I don't know what it is.
As background I drove my IS250 for about 1hr yesterday and parked it for the night around 10pm inside a garage. This morning at around 7am (9 hours later), I came down to the garage to hear the buzzing "fan" noise. I am not sure what it is. The vehicle was OFF. I managed to record the noise.
IS250 Buzzing noise - Car OFF for 9hrs - YouTube ...
That said, the buzzing noise couldn't be something left on overnight... since the battery was fine. The car proceeded to start just fine. What do you think it is? Can it be some sort of fuel vent pump or something?
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The sunglass bin, in the overhead console that includes map lights and sunroof controls, has been buzzing since a couple of weeks after I bought the vehicle. I've taken it to the dealer several times, but they can never reproduce the issue. Today, I decided to take a closer look myself. I removed the bin and then drove for a bit; the buzzing noise continued, even with the bin door removed. Therefore, the buzzing must be coming from the plastic trim around the sunglass bin.
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2015 IS350 AWD ... Lately I have noticed on a cold start that when my idle is between 1000-1500 rpms, there is a slight buzzing/humming noise. It goes away if I rev the rpms past 2000 rpms and also when it drops under 1000 rpms. It's almost like a droning noise. I can hear it inside and outside the vehicle when the rpms are in that range. I feel like the noise is made at a certain frequency and it causes a vibration to occur.
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Our 2009 SEL is equipped with the RNS-510 but no bluetooth. This is an early US model. Upon leaving for work yesterday and a few moments after openning the door to get inside the car, a buzzing static noise started playing from all of the speakers. Imagine white noise with a bee hive and that is the sound. The noise started before we put the key in the ignition. The noise stopped momentarily as we cranked the starter, but continued afterward. Turning on the RNS510 resulted in muffled sound like music inside a can on top of the static. Turning the unit on/off didn't change anything. Turning the motor on/off did nothing to change anything.
For the 20 minute drive to work the noise continued. My wife parked the car and the sound continued as she went into work. At the end of the day, upon returning to the vehicle the noise was gone and has not come back.
This is the second time in about 2 years this has happened. I scanned for codes and didn't get any. We have an iPhone video of it (not sure how to post that) to share at the next service. Currently the vehicle has 37,000 miles (relatively trouble free).
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OK, I recently purchased a 2009 Passat 2.0 & love the car with the exception of one thing that's driving me crazy. When slowly accelerating & the RPM's are between 2-3000 rpm there's a loud buzzing noise from the engine. (Sounds like a kazoo) Again, it only happens when accelerating slowly & will happen at all speeds.
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So I've been hearing this vibration rattle or buzzing noise... on rough roads and overpasses in southern California. I've uploaded a video clip. At 4 seconds I enter the overpass... and you can hear the buzzing noise from 6 seconds to 9 seconds, you might need to raise the volume.
Is this a normal noise from overpasses? My old cars didn't do this. Also I can't tell where it's coming from, maybe the rear upper area or who knows, could be the license plate for all I know.
Car is a 2015 IS 350 F Sport
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Last Thursday Nov 22nd, I took my 2010 Corolla for a regular oil change service by an Toyota agent. The service representative recommended to have the brake fluid replace since it had already 39000 km since new. I agreed.
The same evening, I start hearing a strange high pitch noise from the front while braking light at low speed. It does not occur all the time. I did a search in this forum about the brake noise.
That strange high pitch noise could come from the ABS actuator when it activates or modulates at that light braking.
I did a visual check on the bleeding nipples of the brakes today. It seems that the two nipples for rear brake were untouched and this would mean they did not bleed the rear brakes and air could be trapped in the rear brake lines.
Will take the car back the Toyota service. As search from our forum, the cause for the abnormal modulating of the ABS actuator could be :
(a) a bad speed sensor or
(b) air trapped in the brake line.
Since it starts at the same day of replacing the brake fluid, the most likely cause is air trapped in the brake line.
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I bought my 2014 Corolla new a little over 3 years ago. Yesterday, when I was leaving work to head home I went to start my car and I was just met with my starter making a loud buzzing noise. My lights in my car, car fob, and etune radio were all working properly, but the car was just not able to start! My coworker told me that he heard of a trick where if you knock on the starter with something while trying to start it, it might give it enough of a kick to get going. Whether or not it was coincidence, it did work.
I was able to drive home, about 15 minutes (still daylight, did not need car lights), with no trouble. When I got home I turned my car off and waited for a few seconds and tried to start again. It worked, but it sounded like it struggled. I did it one more time and it failed with that same noise again. I resolved that I would just go get a new battery in the morning.
In the morning, my car was able to start, albeit with some struggle again. I made it all the way to work, and over lunch I was able to start it again and drive it to AutoZone to have them test the battery starter alternator. They told me the battery was too depleted to test it, so I went across the street to Walmart and bought a new battery. After replacing it, the car started like a champ as expected, and I drove back to Autozone to have them test my alternator and starter. The starter came back good, but they said that there was a fault in the test with the alternator. I gave them my old battery and asked them to trickle charge and test it just to see if it happened to still be a good battery that was just losing charge, or if it really was just a dying battery.
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So my passenger front door is vibrating inside somewhere ... tho' it could be the door panel itself possibly !?
I've removed the door panel hoping to find something loose inside that is causing this buzzing. All the door panel's locating pins are intact and secure the panel as they should. In other words... The door panel secures as it should and nothing looks broken at it's attachment points.
The noise does not occur on a smooth road surface...and only occurs on rougher road. So I realize the vibration is being transmitted by road vibrations.
I can hear/feel a lite jolt from the tire's contact with the road's surface irregularities and if the road surface remains consistently rough ... that jolt turns into a buzzing drone type noise. Well ... at least until I hit a smooth road surface again. Then the buzzing subsides. No, it is not an electrical buzz/noise.
Sounds more like plastic vibrating against the door's inner surface... But I don't see a scuff mark or anything giving me a clue as to what it could be !?
I've thought of removing the door panel...then take a test drive without it installed. Just to be sure it is not the the window glass support/channels... door lock/lever mech. rod or loose wiring. But haven't done that as of yet. With the door panel removed... I don't see anything that looks loose or could be causing this rattle/buzzing noise ?
It's difficult to say exactly where this noise is transmitted from... but if I were to guess... I have to think it's possibly near center... around the arm rest area. I see behind that is only some wires coming from the window control unit. But I don't see how those could be culprit of this buzzing noise ?
My '10 is still under the 36K warranty...
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I have 3.8k miles on my GTI, and recently started noticing this clutch chatter when my car is at a stop in neutral with the clutch engaged (pedal out). It goes away when the clutch is disengaged (pedal in). I'm not sure if the noise has always been there or not, but now that I hear it, it's really bothering me.
It doesn't affect driveability, and seems to disappear once the car gets moving. And it's usually not too bad, BUT sometimes the clutch engages in such a way that I get the rattle like in the second video. This is really the noise that makes me nervous. Does this sound like typical clutch chatter or do I possibly have a bad DMF and/or throw out bearing?
Car was taken to dealer today 3/7/14 and a new throw out bearing was ordered. I inquired about the possibility of it being a flywheel issue, and was told they wouldn't know that until they get into the transmission. So for now, car is schedule to have the throw out bearing replaced under warranty next week.
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