Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Blower Motor Resistor Replaced - Fan Completely Shuts Down On High Speed
Nov 2, 2015
I replaced the blower motor resistor on a 2010 F150 with dual climate control where the blower was stuck on high.
After replacing the resistor, now the lower speeds work fine, but when placed on high speed, the fan completely shuts down. Replace with the old resistor, and it only runs on high.
How to proceed, or what else might be the problem?
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Have a 2009 platinum, 5.4, supercrew with dualzone heating and air. The blower motor resistor block is overheating and melting the connector block. fooled with it way too much, and then put a new resistor and pigtail in it. The new resistor would kick out in about 30 seconds, so used the old resistor on the new pigtail, got hot, melted the new pigtail. What is causing the resistor block to get so hot, and what do I do about it?
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2000 Alero. Wife reported to me she had no blower motor. I pulled the motor and it tested good. Next I replaced the resistor with one from auto zone. Now I have blower in all but the 5th and highest position. I suspect a bad new resistor but I left it for now because it's a pain to remove.
Could I have got a bad resistor? In my experience a bad resistor will give you high and nothing else.
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I have google it looked all over was told it was under the hood next to the fan even shown a photo when I went under the hood right were the resistor was in the photo there was a long black box about 4 inches long and 2 inches wide. looked nothing like the photo.
So I went back on line and read that its above the passengers feet you take a few screws off after you take the glove box off and it should be there. Well after taking 8 screws off I find nothing but a coil behind there. Nothing that looked like a resistor.
2006 f350 diesel?
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What is the testing procedures for the blower motor controller on my 2009 150 Lariat. In the old days it was called the resistor but now it is computer controlled for the dual climate control. My fan is stuck on high, the fan switch does work(the bars on the display change when I push the fan speed button). The climate control works also, just blasts you with air and the temp is changing a lot due to the fact of the fan on High. I am 99% sure it is the blower motor controller, but I would like to test the controller.
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My blower motor does not blow hard on high. 2009 AVALON.
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I'm looking for information and possible photo location for the blower motor resistor. My truck has climate control. I've looked under the dash on the passenger side and behind the glove box door and I've been unable to spot the location. Do I have to remove the plastic panel behind the glove box?
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I parked my 2003 f150 about 8wks ago, and at that time the blower had been running only on high then not at all, then only on high again.
As I need it to pull the boat up north next week, I purchased and changed the resistor. When I started it up the blower motor wouldn't run and eventually it started to smoke, so I pulled the wire connector to the motor.
Where I can find a procedure for motor testing, and removal as I think this is probably where I'm headed with this. There seems to be utube videos on everything else but not this. I may just have to go out and purchase a Hains or Chilton manual but I'm Scottish and always look for the free route first.
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I recently bought a 96 ranger.I noticed the fan did not work but for high. I search the internet and found how to remove it and discovered a mouse nest(village) which basically took over the housing where the evaportor core,blower motor resides. I bought a chilton but cannot remove the housing around the core so I cleaned it the best I could(air compressor and vacuum and disinfectant)...
I had to buy a new blower motor and resistor. However, I cannot find the hose that attached to the blower motor?-mouse had chewed a hole in the one- I've looked and found serveral differents names for it but seems I cannot find it at my local parts store.
My question is- is this intake hose? vent hose? I'm guessing I will have to go to dealer or, if I know the name I can look it up in a salvage yard?
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Where the blower motor resistor is located on the '05 model.
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I am not great with electrical but can manage. Here's the deal, Ihave a 1997 ford ranger 2wd 2.3L 5spd with a/c 233,000 miles i just replaced the heater blower motor resistor as the old one was rusted bad as was the pig tail going to it bad that one of the terminals broke off and was rusted in the harness so i replaced the plug as well problem is i still have no fan if i jump it it works but have no power at the plug for resistor or motor and no power at the switch inside the truck I do have power to one terminal where the relay plugs in, where to look next?
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with a new heater core, new blower motor, and new resistor and no heat, what would be the problem? gonna check the thermostat tomorrow.
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I bought my youngest daughter a used 2009 Ford Escape (out of warranty) a week ago. Manual HVAC controls, 3.0 V6, AWD, 73K miles. The HVAC blower motor do not seem to move any air on speed 1 and 2. However speeds 3 and 4 appear to operate normally. Speed 4 noticeably puts out more volume of air then 3. Each 3 and 4 operator what seems to be normal speeds for their setting.
I would normally suspect resistor but my experience is usually that you have all or nothing not it's partially working like this is. I don't mind throwing a new resistor in there and trying it but I rather come up with a better way of troubleshooting it then throw parts at it.
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Where blower resistor is located?
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I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban. The blower fan for the heater/AC was only working on high so I replaced the resistor and relay at the same time. Still no change so I replaced the switch and 30 amp fuse. The first three settings worked but not the high. I checked continuity of the wires between the switch and relay and they were fine. I then thought it might be the blower fan which I replaced but still not working on high.
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I have a 2004 pontiac grand prix gt. I read some where that some of these have the resistor and blower motor close together and that the molding or rubber that runs at the bottom of the windshield after time will leak water into the blower motor and resistor and cause a short. I believe this has been the cause of a lot of my issues with car shorting out. the other day had to have it towed for the first time in its 11 years and found out it was one of the j fuses arcing causing the car not to start.
It's already 267,000 miles.
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2011 FX2, 81,000 miles, with dual control A/C. The blower motor works fine on speeds 1-5. Put it on speed 6 or 7 and the motor trips after about 5 seconds. Turn it back below 6 or 7 and it starts working fine. I have replaced the resistor and the blower with the same results.
I have read through a good deal of the posts and most seem to deal with the resistor and the lower speeds not working. It's like its tripping a breaker or overload.
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2002 Dodge Ram 3500 van (engine unknown, but I think it doesn't matter). Blower operate only at highest speed setting. OK, that's the classic symptom of a failed resistor. Replacements are readily available at chain parts stores.
Where is the resistor located? This video shows me for a 2002 Ram 1500 van. Will it be the same on the 3500?
I've learned here that sometimes resistor failure results from bearings going bad in the blower, causing excessive current draw. Is there a way to test that other than with an ammeter? What's the correct current?
2a. If the blower motor is going bad, is that something we'll be able to replace ourselves? (Yes, I should tell them to get a Haynes or Chilton.) I don't like the idea of taking off dashboard panels.
2b. Is there any other "prime cause" I should look for if the blower motor seems OK?
Are there any other parts (other than the switch) whose failure would also give that symptom?
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I replaced the blower motor and the resistor. I just replaced the resistor again only after only a couple weeks. I noticed that two resistor plug wires (orange and black) were burnt. what can be done to fit this problem.
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My blower works half of the time...from what I have researched it is more than likely the resistor. The thing is I can't find it..all the videos and pictures looks like they are the **** control control. Where this is located for the dual climate control?
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My a/c has not been working so we added R134a yesterday and it fixed the problem just like it did last summer. Once I was finished I left the a/c on high when I shut my car off. This morning when I left for work it was too cold so I turned it to the "off" position. On my drive I decided to turn the a/c on and make sure it was still getting cold at which point nothing happened, absolutely no air (hot or cold) was blowing out. I kept turning it on and off and at one point the a/c did start working again at which point I turned the fan speed to low. A few minutes later the blower completely quit working again. Nothing works at any speed, any position regardless of heat or a/c. Absolutely nothing is blowing out of my vents. I can hear something that sounds like opening and closing when I change the position/type of a/c/heat but the other than that the only sound is a "shhhhhhh" when I turn it to the off position. Where to start on diagnosing and fixing this issue?
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