Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Blend Door Clicks When Truck Turned Off?
Dec 30, 2016
Question: blend doors clicking even when the key is removed from the ignition? Mine clicks for quite awhile after I turn off the truck (probably 10 mins or so, I haven't stuck around to see when it finally stops) Asking out of curiosity....and this thread may put some people at rest down the line.
I do love this truck and I don't mind working on it at all. The Blend doors allow me to paint the dash trim with Bright Aluminum Plastidip.
Leaky T coolant connector which I don't mind.....wanted to switch out to a 170 degree thermostat (SSI Tuned and South Texas Heat) and do a coolant flush anyways. Might as well hammer it all out. No biggs.
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Time for me to replace the actuator. I just have one. I've watched many videos on it but none say anything about re-calibration before using. A few posts say this is needed. Is it? if so how is it done?
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I have a 2013 Lariat with 135K miles. Yesterday started a loud and consistent clicking under the center dash. When I turn the heater up to 77 degrees or above it stops. I have dual AC controls and the passenger side will now occasionally blow hot compared to the driver side when I have them on the same temperature.
Based on what I have researched I need to replace my heater blend door. Need to confirm if this sounds correct? Are there different blend doors for driver vs. passenger side repair?
As importantly I am looking for a good set of instructions on how to gain access to the heater blend door motor in order to take care of the replacement myself. My understanding is it is a $40 part buy may be heavy on services due to access. My 2013 is stocked with the sync touch screen / navigation option .....
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got in the truck tonight and she is blowing nothing but cold out the drivers side but the passenger side works as advertised for temp settings. I have been trying to see if there is a self test mode like the earlier year trucks have to see if there is a code. She is dual zone climate/digital so its an EATC if I am not mistaken. I have tried power cycle, pulled and re-installed climate fuse after inspecting. Tried some of the earlier year self test button combinations to no avail. I did notice if I hit defrost a few times after hitting the power and defrost that the temps would go all 00 but I don't know if that is what I am looking for. I probably know my answer which includes tearing out the dash but how to proceed. Bought her with an aftermarket power train warranty so electronics are off the table for warranty. I know the stealership will charge out the rear to fix it too. All signs so far point to a blend door which is not good at all.
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My keyless entry didn't work this morning on the way to work....the parking lights came on and stayed on awhile but no dice on unlocking. I figured no biggie and tried to unlock the door with the key...the door lock won't rotate. I went in the house and tried keyless again with the spare keyfob....still nothing. I didn't have time to keep messing around so I just drove my car today. It's a 2012 F150 w/ a little under 6K miles.
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sitting at a redlight with radio off, sounds like heater door or something under the dash is moving. Thing is, all the controls for heater and a/c were off.
2009 f250 5.4.
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The 6 button powercode remote start and alarm will shut the engine down if you open the door after remote starting.
Here is the fix, I found it somewhere else. It's nice doing stuff yourself that the dealer tells you it cant be done.
open the drivers door
turn on the ignition
hold the program/override button for 15 sec (horn will chirp 3 times)
press the override button again horn will chirp 4 times
" " horn will chirp 5 times
" " horn will chirp 6 times
" " horn will chirp 7 times
" " horn will chirp 8 times letting you know you are in option bank 5.
press the panic button on the fob horn will chirp once
" " chirp twice
" " chirp three times
" " chirp 4 times
" " chirp 5 times
press the lock button on the fob once...your led alarm light will now be off.
Turn off the ignition
you are done
Enjoy
Activate the remote start open the door(smile) just don't press the brake before you put key in ignition and turn.
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We all know the front door speakers on these are horrible. I am changing them out all the time under warranty for being blown. In doing so I decided it was time for a video on how to remove the door panel without damage to get at the speakers and swap in aftermarket etc.
2009+ Ford F150 Front Door Speaker Replacement- Door Panel Removal Procedure - YouTube ....
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What is the difference between :
Part # XF2H-19E616-FA and
Part # YL5Z-19E616-AA?
The middle numbers are the same. And they look the same? the first one is mine. Blend door actuator out of a 2000 ford windstar. Will another part # work? If the connection is the same?
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After turning the truck off and restarting, the towhaul button needs to be pressed to turn it on, I always forget this and pull into traffic, my question is can towhaul mode be turned on and off "on the fly" or do I need to be at a complete stop? I looked through the manual, It doesn't say that I have to be stopped. I never had an auto trans. with this option before.
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Went into town earlier and the a/c was not blowing out the 2 passenger side vents. Could switch to defrost and it would blow correctly. The rear is working as well. The drivers side vents blow good and if you cover those with your hands to block them off its like it forces air to blow out the passenger vents. Could this be a blend door issue?
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I have a 99 EB Expedition 5.4 with EATC climate control. I replaced the heater core that had been leaking severely. When I got the dash back on I adjusted the controls with the engine running while watching the blend door actuator under the dash. it moved but not as much as I thought it should. So I drilled an "inspection" hole behind the glove box and into the plenum cover. I watched the blend door open and close when the hot/cold buttons were adjusted, but the movement was intermittent.
I'd checked the blend door for cracks prior to installing the heater core and found none. I left things alone for a day while I drove as normal. When I had time to work on it again, the actuator quit working. I figured it was damaged from the coolant leaking into the cab so I decided to replace it. It was indeed full of coolant. I bought a Dorman actuator (part #604-216) and plugged it into the wiring harness to test it before installing it. I adjusted the controls with the ignition in the "run" position and nothing happened. I'm at a loss as to what could be the problem. I've searched for this problem, but the only threads I find are incomplete or deal with the "manual" controls. I checked all my fuses and they are all good.
My questions are:
Could I have bought the wrong actuator? Would the harness fit the "manual" actuator? The part number was identified as being for the main blend door for "automatic" controls. Is there a possibility the EATC head unit is bad? It still sends air to the panel, floor and defrost when adjusted.
How do I test the voltage at the connector? I just bought a multimeter but I'm not sure which wires in the harness deliver power to the actuator. I know there are a lot of people on this site who've gone through the heater core/blend door ordeal and have lived to tell about it. What I should do next.
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Where is the Blend Door Actuator on the ford Aerostar?
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I get a feeling it's some type of door that either wants to open or shut but it takes a few times to do it. It doesn't always do it too.
2011 XLT 28k on it.
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I have a 11 f150 with a 5.0 can I Disable the traction control? All I can do now is turn it off on the dash and it kicks back in at 20mphish and it absolutely sucks in snow! Other than pulling a fuse do I have any other options?
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I have an Explorer with automatic A/C. The blend door actuator broke (a gear inside) so I replace it with a Dorman part (could not find the Ford ones anywhere). Part #604-202, looks identical and fits. But... doesn't work.
If I do the EATC test (OFF+FLOOR, then AUTOMATIC), the display shows error coded 024, 025, 052. What is the meaning of those?
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My 2003 mountaineer 4.6L has front and rear heat. The issue is the heat in the front is barely warm and the heat in the back is poor. I have replaced the blend doors front and back and I'm sure they work as I can go from cold to barely warm and back again when I change the temperature setting.
I can feel hot fluid going from the engine to the front heater core and also down under the vehicle to the rear when the vehicle is warm. The return on the front is almost cold - so heat is being given up by the heater core in front, but it seems to me that if the return is almost cold, there's not enough hot coolant delivery. The overall heat is very poor in the cabin.
The coolant temperature gauge is steady and just below 1/2 with no erratic movements. I flushed the front heater core a couple years ago. Coolant has also been flushed last year. I know that the heat is underpowered in this vehicle, but it's a far cry from when it was new.
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Dad has a 97 F150 with some heater issues. He put a new potentiometer in and it didn't work. We he turns the dial to cold, it still blows hot air. Defrost =hot, vent=hot, a/c=warm etc.....
The dealership told him that the blend door might be stuck. My question is, how hard is this to fix? Is it something that I can just stop by after work and quickly fix. What is involved in fixing this and where it is?
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Whenever my A/C is turned on, it blows nice cold air. As long as the blower is on "1", "2", and sometimes ", it blows cold air. If I turn it to "4" I can hear a small "thud" behind the dash. It sounds like the blend door is shutting. All my functions work like they should. I think the actuator is goin out and isn't pushing the door all the way closed, and when I turn it to "4" it pushes it te other way.
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Compressor clutch engages, lines are cold, when it works air is cold. A/C guy thinks the blend door isn't working right, is it vacuum operated or electric?
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I did not want to high jack the threat about the blower motor stuck on high, but on rare occasions my blower will quit all together if it is turned up too quickly. I can still hear the compressor clicking on and off, but no air moving. after waiting a few minutes it will work fine if you adjust the blower control slowly.
My truck is a 2012 lariat supercrew with navi and dual climate controls. oh and i believe i have about 300 miles left on warranty, but it is not doing it on a regular basis, i doubt the local ford dealership will repair it.
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