First, the basics: 09 SCREW 4.6L V8, bone stock, 63K miles.
Over the holidays I put about 1800 miles on my truck. I've noticed an accumulation of black soot on my tail pipe. Not a lot, but some.
Also, my highway gas mileage is down some, from 21-22 to 20mpg.
My vast experience with engines tells me that my engine may be running rich, which would explain the loss of gas mileage.
I've got a thick layer of black soot-like buildup on the lower passenger side of my intercooler. Just bought the truck (2008 F250, 6.4L, CC, SWB, 4x4, 150K miles).
What would cause a buildup like this on the intercooler?
Lots of black soot on my chrome exhaust pipes. I imagine this is normal, but I've never noticed it on other cars, because I have never had chrome tips.
View 5 RepliesI recently installed a Banks Ram Air Intake on my stock 1999.5 powerstroke and wow did it ever wake up the turbo. A few weeks later i installed a Flo-Pro 5" stainless exhaust from turbo back with no muffler. The truck is running better than it has in years and with 272000 miles, I am pleased with the results. HOWEVER, I have since noticed a little black sticky soot coming out of the tail pipe, a bit of vapor (no oil spitting) from the oil filler tube with the lid off, and now my dip stick tube where it enters the oil pan is leaking. What is going on , or am I now chasing and fixing week points on this truck?
View 6 RepliesI purchased my 2013 Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost screw in December 28th 2013. I now have 12,000 miles on my truck. My transmission occasionally clunks in and out of gear. Mostly in stop and go rush hour traffic around 20mph. Dealer applied a PCM/TCM software update in July. Still clunks... possible 'slip bump fix' required?
When I 'punch it', I see what looks like blue smoke blowing out of the tailpipe. Tailpipe has soot buildup. I've also noticed a slight drop in MPG. I have NOT noticed a loss of power. Wondering if my truck needs induction cleaning?
This does not happen all the time but my backup camera goes black and the dealer cant find the problem...
View 2 RepliesOn Tuesday morning I was watching an auction on my computer and saw a 2003 Ford F350 Super Duty Crew Cab Fx4 with 200K on it. It had an inspection report which is *supposed* to note every cosmetic and mechanical issue. It had nothing listed wrong with it for mechanical. I "won" and for my prize I get a rough-running 6.0 diesel delivered.
I just got off the phone with the transporter who picked it up today and he said there are no check engine lights but it is running rough with no power. So I am having him drop it off at a diesel repair shop.
Hopefully it is just something with the wiring harness but I have a feeling it's got at least a few bad injectors so I am probably screwed.
about a week ago I popped both of the passenger side tires By hitting a rather tall curb while trying to avoid being t-boned. And I have had the passenger side jacked up for about a week now while waiting for the shop to order and get in my new rims. It has been raining here for the past week so I only just noticed today that there was a puddle underneath of my truck.
It looks and feels like engine oil but it is leaking from the back of my transmission. I can't figure what it might be because transmission fluid is red and my transmission has never overheated So it should not be burned. It has 128k miles on it so it also only has 8k miles on the last fluid change. So it's fairly new fluid. What this could be?
I know some seal is obviously broken and the way everything is wet around just the back bottom of the transmission it looks like it is coming from the transmission. I originally thought it was just the transfer case got hit and it could be a bushing at either the transfer case or transmission but there is no scraping on anything under the truck so none of it was hit or damaged from that. What could be causing this?
Have a 2009 Ford F-150 with 5.4 ... Recently installed a cold air intake and now when I start it burns black smoke for maybe 15-60 seconds.
I have to rev the engine up by pushing on the gas or else it will stall.... after the 15-60 seconds the smoke turns clear and it idles with no problem and sounds normal.
This happens every time I don't use it for over 9 hours or so if I leave it for a couple hours it will start normal and idle normal....
2005 6.0l PSD. Driving flat road pulling 8K trailer. Not pushing it at all. Sudden air hissing sound on (seems like) passenger side of truck. Black smoke pouring from tailpipe. Check intercooler pipe and is ok. Can't see anything that is loose. Only 8 miles to the campground so limp down the road at 30 MPH which is all it will do. Hissing sound is remarkable predictable in that it is repetitive every 5 seconds or so. Lasts for maybe 2 seconds then stops the repeats.
There is no turbo boost either on the dash gauge or the Scan II gauge. Shutting the engine down, there is no turbo wind down. Scan II show no codes. Check everything I can reach and find nothing extraordinary. Tried starting a driving it today and had boost for a minute only then nothing. Blowing white smoke too. Check the oil and it is oil. Check the radiator fluid and it is oil free. Running low on fuel and wonder if I have a water in the fuel problem. However, don't think that should effect the non functioning turbo...
I got my 2.0 turbo project up and running. no CEL but i did have a bad o2 code but it was erased and didn't come back.
Not only is it rough idle and smoking out the exhaust but i am also getting smoke out of my catch can vent.
The smoke looks black coming out of the tailpipe but little blue after it gets out a ways from the car. Where to look??
I did just replace a piston and install a head gasket spacer. I don't know if that could be causing it some and it will go away with some driving or what?
I have not taken it out on the road as I have some brake work to finish. so mostly it idled.
Here is a link to a video on what the car is doing : [URL] .....
Its a 01 engine code....
I have a 2001 Jeep Liberty Sport 4x4. 150,000 miles. I had the ignition coil changed on cylinder #5 last weekend and then this weekend it started spewing black smoke out the tailpipe. Dealer says cylinder #2 is misfiring and he would have to replace the cylinder head. The main issue is that the part is backordered for an indefinite amount of time so I have no way to know if or when it could be fixed. If it could be fixed there wold be no guarantee it would work for much longer. It is obviously cheaper to repair the car than get a new one, but at some point the is the law of diminishing returns...
View 12 RepliesI've got an oddball '88 SWB with the M5OD transmission. Since I've had it (about a year now), its always required a lot of gas to get it rolling without it stalling after sitting overnight or during the day at work, especially putting it in reverse for the first time. The shifts have always been a little choppy/jerky/grabby/whatever you want to call it, too. Mostly going into first from a stop, but you can feel it other gears too, especially if you're not flooring it.
Anyway, it seems to have gotten worse and I'm getting to the point where I'm looking at a cause. One thought I had was oil contamination on the clutch discs, I know this will make a clutch feel "grabby". There is some sludge accumulation between the trans and engine, and it appears I may have a very slow leak there.
I have to change the trans fluid this weekend and am wondering if there's anything I should inspect while I'm at it -- I don't know a whole lot about the clutch system on this van and there's next to no information on it. Frankly, I don't even know if its hydraulic or cable.
Over the holiday weekend I towed my 13k# 5th wheel 180 miles to the campgrounds.
According to my Torque Pro app, soot was around mid 30% when I left home. Upon arrival it had passively dropped to single digits.
After driving unloaded a few times over the weekend, the soot level had gone back up to mid 30s.
While towing home it again had passively dropped back to 1.1% .......... then boom! A regen starts.
After 22 miles it completed and soot had dropped to -13.2%.
So towing heavy, passively burning soot off, exhaust temps in the 700-800 weren't good enough for the system.
It had to start a regen and boost tempts to the 1100-1200 range WHILE TOWING to basically burn off NOTHING.
Not to mention drop my already poor MPG to single digits.
Just venting about what appears to be unnecessary exposure to high temps and wasted fuel.
I haven't been able to find the plastic piece without buying the whole carbon fiber center console.
View 11 RepliesThere is a black mark in the middle console near the cd player. I don't recall how it got there, but if this is a scuff mark that I can rub off, or if it is the paint or something below and the silver area was rubbed off.
View 8 Replieswhat material is used for the stock airbox? The 90 degree "snorkel" intake tube that is held on by two rivets on my airbox has a tab at one rivet that is cracked. This allows the snorkel to move around and come unsealed from the main airbox. It is "pre-filter" so there is no performance issue, but I would like it to stay in place and look right.
Depending on the material, I was going to shave some slivers from a thicker part of the box and mix it with a solvent to make a paste and apply it to the crack. This will only work if the material "melts" in strong solvents like acetone/MEK. Once it dries, it will be good as new. I have done this many times with ABS and PVC. There is a small gap to fill so simply gluing might not be as strong.
How to repair some scratches in the center console on an IS F? The scratches are in the vertical black plastic section of the center console. I stupidly scratched it one day I needed to take the driver seat out, when I was putting the seat back in the car. The scratches are basically where the buckle for the seat belt is (to the right of your right leg, if you're the driver.)
View 6 RepliesHaving problems with the electrical unit on 3is? A while back it had sudden black outs or freezing with the screen. When that happens my entire multi media does not work including gps. Recently it keeps telling I have a system update but when it finishes loading the same cycle of it updating keeps appearing.
View 4 RepliesFound a small black piece of either plastic or metal about half the size of a fingernail in the oil when checking it last night. When I took the oil cap off it was on the spindle part. About a month ago I saw another same size piece just in the top area just when you take the cap off and look in the oil case.
Its my 2nd round of using 5w20 valvoline full synthetic oil. Im hoping this is just extra sludge/debris being cleaned out? After reading around It sounds like it could be a much more serious problem with bearing, or pistons/rings.
This car has a serious problem with oil consumption, I always try to stay on top of oil levels and am actually taking it in to the dealership to have it Flashed with the latest TSB for it. Just got a new battery, fuel injectors cleaned every 1-2k, throttlebody just cleaned 2k miles ago.
I literally just did an oil change and did a small trip of 300 miles, next morning had a dry start... had to add about 1/4 qt and this morning and then was fine.
Car has 98.5k miles 2009 corolla S
Started a while back and comes and goes. Only commonality I have found is the truck needs to be warmed up for it to happen and usually after a few hours of driving. The downshift from 5th or 6th into fourth, at times, produces anywhere from a light to violent clunk, feels like a typical tranny slip. It will do it while in cruise and it will do it if I don't have the cruise on. Can't figure out if it is going to be a tune issue or hardware.
It does it only downshifting into 4th from 5th or 6th, no other downshifting is a problem and usually the 6th to 4th produces the worst results. At highway speeds that is usually a shift from around 2Krpm to just over 3K rpm (6th to 4th) if it is from 5th it is about 2500 to 3K. Start from a stop and go WOT and there are no issues.
Having it in Tow/Haul or not makes no difference as far as I can tell. IT can do it on one hill and the next time be just fine or do it 2-3 hills in a row. After this last trip it will do it at 9K feet or at 60 feet elevation, didn't make a difference there either.
Another issue that may be hurting the computer is the truck originally came with the 235 tires, it now has 285's and the rear is only 3.31. I plan on going with 265's and maybe still a gear change to 3.73's in the future. I usually only notice this on long trips, first was a 1500mile hauling an ATV, second was last week during a 2500 mile empty. Although I have had it do it a few times locally. I figure those bigger tires can't be good especially with that high of a rear for the management system.