Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Bed Seams Wide Open
Apr 10, 2011
I noticed today all the seams in my bed are wide open, no seam sealer was put in them before it was painted! Are they all like this or was mine not finished properly? Check your beds. I can see daylight and the ground at all the seams!
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I got in a work truck yesterday, sat down, put my seat belt on and started the truck. Just as I did that another employee drove by and waved, all I could do was nod back at him because my hand was still starting the truck. This took my attention away for a split second, then as I put the truck in gear, my foot still on the brake, I noticed that the tachometer was pegged and the engine was racing. I instinctively pushed harder on the brake pedal, then looked down to be sure that I was pushing on the brake pedal and I was. Right then then rear of the truck started shaking violently and as fast as I could I turned the key off and put it back in park. This all happened in about 1 second, maybe 2.
The shaking was caused by the sheared off driveshaft. And it was sheared off because the center section of the rear differential had broken the spot welds that hold it and place and rotated on the axel housings. It is now pointing upward towards the bed of the truck. Have a drive by wire truck run the engine at wide open throttle with no input from the pedal? 2010 F150 4.6L...
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this has just started recently. when ever i am wide open the car sputters a bit when at the top of the rpm range say 4,000 and above. this one has really got me scratching my head... list of upgrades are dual port blow off valve set to atmospheric, 3 inch downpipe back to the stock mufflers with no cats and the neu speed reflash.
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Every time I start my passat after it sits for more than 4 or 5 hours (overnight, workday) it sounds like the turbo is winding up at full rpm for about 10 secs. and then stops. It only happens on cold starts. I've had it in two shops with no luck what so ever.
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I've been using full synthetic 0W-20 oil since it was new(2010 Prius. It is an early build). Last time I had an oil change was about a year and a half ago, oil has 8,000 miles on it. I ran the car hard today at wide open throttle around town. Never driven this way for the past 68,000 miles/5 years. All fluid levels are normal. When I went to check the oil dipstick after running the car at WOT a few times, I noticed a few flakes on the dip stick. Nothing big, just a 1-2 flakes very small flakes every time I reinsert the dip stick. Flakes are about the size of a single dust particle. It's 86 degrees out, which supposedly 0W-20 should protect the engine.
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Today I was leaving my buddys house when I got in my car it started fine then I let off the brake and the epc light came on and the gas is stuck wide open unless I have my foot on the brake unplugged the plug that goes to the gas pedal and it was fine but the epc light was still on plugged it back in and the same thnig so i put my gas pedal on my buddy jetta and it worked fine on his car. Its a 1.8t jetta 03 wolfsburg edition 119000miles
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Experience a strong smell when WOT? Seems like every time I put my foot down hard through a couple of gears it stinks for a few minutes. The car only has 28000km, fresh oil change and running great.
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I have an 06 gs300 awd. My left front axle boot is torn wide open. I've called multiple parts stores, looked online. And I can't seem to find one anywhere but the dealer. I have found one for gs350. So my question is will that one work in my gs300? What is the part number from the dealer is different between 06 and 07?
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Sometimes you have to put pedal to the metal to pass slowpokes blocking 2 line roads (I'm talking city/suburb driving here). but, i noticed that the smell follows. first couple of times, i thought it was coming from some other car, but this time, I realized it was me.
No, it's not burning tire due to the insane acceleration (not in this car). What else could be? should i worry about the car bursting in flames?
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My dad's 2010 F150 is making some funny noises when you open the tailgate. What was the cause? Seems like something is going awry with the torsion bar.
2010 F150 tailgate noise - YouTube...
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If I use my remote to unlock my 2013 F150 FX4 it takes two pulls on the door handle to open the door. The first pull doesn't do anything I can notice, then the second one opens the door. Is that the way it's supposed to work?
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So of course the dealership isn't going to diagnose this since "the car's not supposed to be driven that way" - but I get a nasty rumbling noise when I accelerate from a dead stop with wide open throttle. It only lasts for the first few thousand RPMs in first gear, and after that it is gone.
I was guessing that it might be the transfer case or something like that, but it's really hard to tell. I do have AWD. I did not have any such problem in my previous GS, which was a 2007 (current is a 2010). It's worse when I accelerate around a corner, and it also makes a small noise when I'm going above 80ish mph, which of course the dealership isn't going to diagnose either.
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Both my rear doors in my 2010 F150 supercrew wont open from the outside. Was wondering, is there was a DIY fix?
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I have a '12 SCAB that when opening the driver door the weatherstrip on the door near the front fender, which seals against the pillar squeaks each time you open and close it. Makes the truck sound 20 years old. It appears the weatherstrip is binding on itself instead of just slipping past. I understand it gets dirty and cleaning it will work, but only for a day or so. I've checked the orientation of the weatherstrip with new trucks and its in the correct position.
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We have a "new" 2010 F150 with factory sunroof & power sliding rear window. Well like the post title says, it'll open but not close.
I took apart the switch & cleaned the contacts - it all looks and fits together as it should. I went ahead and removed the cables controlling the window slider frame to close it. I'm guessing the motor is somewhere behind the back seats?
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2009 XLT.. rear drivers side door is locked and closed. Master lock button, remote button and keypad all function and make the manual lock rod go up and down as it should. Both the interior and exterior door handles move freely, as if the door were properly locked, but regardless of the lock position neither will open the door.
I dismantled the door from the inside as best I could and can see all cables and rods are intact down to the actuator mechanism. Pretty sure something inside the actuator is messed up, but how do I get the door open to get at the screws needed to remove the actuator?? If I need to pry the actuator apart, what am I looking for (or more acurately, feeling around for) to release the door latch??
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I have 2010 F150 King Ranch 5.4L. This truck has been giving us problems by just dying. We have haf it towed twice in two days. It does it more often when hooked up to our travel trailer. The day before yesterday we drove it 250 miles w/o the camper with no problems. Once it dies it can take an hoir or so before it starts. I just did a test and had the truck.running for a bit and then plugged the trailer wiring harness (7 pin with brake control) and truck died within a minute. A couple of times it showed that there codes. The codes were P0201 thri P208. Which is open circuit to that specific injector. When the key is turned off the codes go away.
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Did a search and read the manual and I cant seem to turn of the dome lights when I open the doors. For example... Sometimes my daughter falls asleep and I want to open the door at night without the lights coming on... Or If the mosquitoes are going crazy I might want to turn off the light so I don't get killed... I know I can hold the switch to the right and it turns lights on with doors closed, and hold for a second to the left to turn off. But what about opening the door? I know my old 2007 was able to do this function...
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2011 Scab truck when driving over rough stuff drivers side door sounds like its cracked open when its not...never liked clamshell doors wished they would have went with mini doors like Dodge....
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Started a while back and comes and goes. Only commonality I have found is the truck needs to be warmed up for it to happen and usually after a few hours of driving. The downshift from 5th or 6th into fourth, at times, produces anywhere from a light to violent clunk, feels like a typical tranny slip. It will do it while in cruise and it will do it if I don't have the cruise on. Can't figure out if it is going to be a tune issue or hardware.
It does it only downshifting into 4th from 5th or 6th, no other downshifting is a problem and usually the 6th to 4th produces the worst results. At highway speeds that is usually a shift from around 2Krpm to just over 3K rpm (6th to 4th) if it is from 5th it is about 2500 to 3K. Start from a stop and go WOT and there are no issues.
Having it in Tow/Haul or not makes no difference as far as I can tell. IT can do it on one hill and the next time be just fine or do it 2-3 hills in a row. After this last trip it will do it at 9K feet or at 60 feet elevation, didn't make a difference there either.
Another issue that may be hurting the computer is the truck originally came with the 235 tires, it now has 285's and the rear is only 3.31. I plan on going with 265's and maybe still a gear change to 3.73's in the future. I usually only notice this on long trips, first was a 1500mile hauling an ATV, second was last week during a 2500 mile empty. Although I have had it do it a few times locally. I figure those bigger tires can't be good especially with that high of a rear for the management system.
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What are some pros/cons you have with yours? Both 5.4 supercabs xlt im looking at just cant decide. The 09 has a overall higher rating but its not to much more.
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