Went to start my truck this morning and when I turned it over it barely cranked once. I cleaned the connections on the battery and checked fuses, everything checks out fine. I am not very familiar with Ford trucks. The check engine light doesn't come on until after I try to turn it over.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2009 Silverado regular cab 2 wheel, drive 6cyl with 30K kms on the odometer. Yesterday I went to start it and it barely cranked like the battery was low. I let off on the key and on the 2nd attempt it fired up as normal. Again this morning when I attempted to start it the same thing happened. The battery appears to have a full charge as the headlights are bright when the ignition is turned ahead. This appears to happen when the truck is cold or first started in the morning. Any known issues that would cause this? It sounds like the starter could be dragging but given the little use this truck has seen I am not leaning toward that cause.
View 12 RepliesThe truck always ran perfect till two days ago. went to start it in the middle of the day , it would barely start, when it did it was missing bad. then seemed to clear up a little after about 30 seconds but still missing. they thought they got some bad fuel. so they dropped the tank cleaned it all out and got new fuel, no change.
Him and a so called mechanic "kid from fire stone" played around switching coil packs around from the injectors with no change. He tells me that the two front cylinders , one on each side are not firing. that those two spark plugs are coming out fuel soaked after running the truck. He thinks it dropped a lifter or push rod popped out of place.
I took my A/E over and came up with codes p0106 - map sensor, and p0135 - 02 sensor. i cleared them and started the truck, shut it back off ran codes again. He also said they pulled the 02 sensor and it still ran the same.
Went to start the wife's car this afternoon and it wouldn't turn over. Battery was fine and it cranked but would no start. I pulled one of the plugs to check for spark and i had spark on that plug.
It pretty much turned over when I told the wife to turn the key. I put the plug back in and it started right up. So what the heck was the deal here. I drove it around the block, restarted a couple times and all seems fine.
Same gas that was in there for the last several days. Was a little colder this morning than it has been but nothing extreme. The car was last driven 2 days ago, so it isn't like it sat for a long period. Maybe some water in the gas made its way into the lines and finally reared its ugly head?
From my research, the fuel filter appears to be part of the fuel pump and isn't normally serviced. What it could have been and what to check if and when this happens again? The local Autozone will rent me a fuel pressure tester but unless it happens again, I don't think its worth renting it now that its running again.
Came out of the building center yesterday after about ten minutes, and the van wouldn't start. Just cranked and cranked.
So I fired up Torque Pro and the HPO only got to 156.8psi. The idiot gauge came up to where it should be.
The dipstick looks good. I unhooked the ICP sensor and still no go. Reconnected.....
So I called a tow... after It cooled down.(75*F water) I tried again and got up to 295psi, but still not enough to start.
At this point I know I have recent injectors and updated Plug& pipe on the passenger side, a new IPR, and (another) new STC fitting.
I will get the air to it, and investigate, but at this point,I am leaning towards the Dummy Plug on the drivers side. Or maybe I am just hopeful because the internet says that one can remove the VC on that side fairly easily.....(Van Body)
However I did recently(2K miles/??) have the engine apart to get at the HPOP and STC leak issue I had. In the event of a possible stuck IPR- what would be the symptoms during an air test? No change with power applied? Or should I just remove and inspect?
This morning was cold. Went to start and it slowly cranked but no start. Tried jumping but again slow crank and no start. Thinking battery charged and tested and it's fully charged. Reinstalled and nothing.
No click.
No crank.
Nothing.
So thinking now. Start with relay.
Then starter solenoid.
Then starter?
Could it be a column thing? Not fully in park or should I try in neutral? Have another thread needing a fuse diagram for inside and the box under the hood.
I have a 2001 ford F150 with a 5.4 2WD, with a starting problem. Last Friday I went to leave work the truck cranked but did not start, turned the key off and tried again same thing, on the third try it started. Drove it home 30 miles with one stop on the way, restarted just fine. At home in the driveway I restarted it 5 times without a problem so I was thinking it was just a glitch. Did not drive the truck all weekend thinking the problem was fixed.
Monday morning leave for work and everything was fine, went to start the truck in the afternoon and the same problem as listed above (3 or 4 tries and it started). It home again in the driveway restarts every time. I do not have any check engine light on but I thought I would still plug in my code reader NO CODE. Where to start troubling shooting this problem?
This morning I went out to start my truck. It cranked for about 15 seconds with no start. I set my TorquePro to monitor the IPR% and cranked again for about 10 seconds. The IPR% was about 83.7% with no start again. I went inside and searched for "crank no start" threads to see what else I needed to look at. I went back out and added HPOP to the TorquePro. Cranked for about 5 seconds, thinking I would get no start again, but it fired up. After start I was getting about 27% on the IPR and abour 537 on the HPOP. Drove to work with no problem.
Could this just be a fluke, or do I need to be concerned about it? I have a road trip coming up to Tennessee on Thursday. I did standpipes, dummy plugs, STC fittings, EGR delete, new oil cooler and upgrade to stainless steel IPR screen about a year ago.
My truck started and ran as it always did and about a mile it just quit. I tried to restart it and it just cranked but wont start. I bought a scangauge II and did test for the normal no start issues that Ron on you tube mentioned.
Values are as followed engine off
14.8 - IPR 0- SYC
48.0 FMP 28 - ICP - I was thinking that the ICP sensor was a newer 04 model so the values come back a little higher.
While Cranking its as follows
84.7 - IPR 1- SYC
48.0 FMP 46- ICP
Research says that I think if the IPR is bad or unplugged it could show a low value on the ICP..
Also I wanted to check both the IPR and the ICP for connection and to make sure no oil on connectors. See if the IPR screen was cracked or cut.
I have tried to find them and cant so I thought they were behind the turbo so we took that off and no i still cant find it. I have the truck apart and it got late so I have decided to take a break and come back to it tomorrow.
As I said I'm not a diesel mech but I'm pretty good with figuring things out or at least enough to get into trouble.
Had a hot no start going, found dummy plug issue, replaced dummy plugs. While in there I cleaned the injectors (passenger side only) and put back together. Cranked multiple times, had to recharge batteries a few times as it is in the 10 - 20 degree temp range. No joy on re-start following the work.
Numbers I'm getting are:
KOEO With ICP connected:
ICP - 0
ICV - .07
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - eventually builds to 400+-
ICV - eventually increases to .13
IPR - maxed at 84.7
ICV too low so...
After disconnecting ICP
KOEO
ICP - 0
ICV - 0 (disconnected)
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - up to 1693
IPR - to 65.5
Still no start.
Ran through FICM check and the numbers are fine - 48 key on, 47 key during buzz, 47-48 while cranking.
I do get oil pressure registering on the dash gauge.
Fuel is in the filter housing
Oil filter housing refills with oil as expected when cranking
Only code is the P2285 once the ICP is disconnected
1995 ranger. 132k miles. I have been having an intermittent starting problem. I replaced the battery which was 3+ years old. I thought that cured the issue because the truck started without a problem then, the same problem occurred. I started the truck and drove about 10 miles. Parked it for about 2 hrs. Went out and tries to start it. The engine cranked, but would not start.
Tried a second time and would not start.
I turned on the lights and proved the battery was good.
Tried to start it and it turned over.
I took it to a shop and they could not fine the problem.
I asked if it was a possible problem with the solenoid, alternator,
They said if it was those the engine would not turn and you would just hear a click.
They drove it for a week and it happened to their technician but he said he did not have his equipment to check it.
He got it started after a few tries as I did and got it back to the shop. Ran a scan.
Four codes returned that really did not identify the issue - P0231, P1701, P0340, P1270. They cleared the codes and drove it again. They checked the codes. It showed code P0340. The shop says the code states to replace the cam position sensor and installing an updated DPFE sensor.
I have been driving it for about a week on and the problem has not resurfaced yet. A friend whom I work with does some car maintenance told me it is a dead spot on the starter and to replace it.
My Excursion didn't start the other day. It would barely crank. A new Interstate battery was installed about a year ago.
I jumped it and it fired right up. I went inside and left it running for about 20 minutes.
The next day I started it up and drove about 5 miles. I noticed whenever I was braking both the audio and lights on the radio would cut out.
It sat for about 4 hours and then wouldn't start again. I jumped it again and stood next to it while it was warming up.
I noticed the interior lights got dim, the radio cut out again, and then the entire gauge cluster went crazy. The needles were jumping around and would then shut off, then jump around again. Whenever I increased the RPMs the problems would stop.
I got home and it sat for about an hour. I tried to start it again and it would barely crank.
I'm trying to avoid a trip to the parts store to have the alternator tested since I'll have to jump it again... and worse, I could get stuck on the side of the road if it completely dies.
I'm guessing the alternator is shot. Could it be anything else?
I just purchased a 2013 FX4 with a 3.5 Ecoboost and it seems to start strange compared to other vehicles I have owned. With this truck when you hit the key (warm or cold engine) it sounds like the engine turns over for maybe 1-2 seconds before firing where other vehicles I have owned pop right off starting almost instantly.
Is this typical of the Ecoboost motor? I asked the dealer I purchased it from (large used truck dealer, but not a ford shop) and they said that they all do that...seems odd.
I have a 2010 XLT, 85K, just started having a horrible grinding noise at start up for about 2-3 seconds, then gone. Going to dealer tmrrw. Multiple people said, possible oil pump hydraulics, ??????. Whatever it is, they say its expensive!!!!!
View 3 RepliesI have a 2013 f150 ecoboost. When going to start the truck up the cooling fan comes on (high). it stays on high til you shut the truck off. What to look for?
View 14 RepliesThe fuse was not blown. The bus connection for that fuse was burned from a high capacitance caused when there is a loose connection.......period.
View 13 RepliesI am new to the F150 section. I come from the 7.3L Powerstroke area of the form, but am happy to have my new F150. Back in the day I made lots of F250 and 7.3L how to videos. I hope to do lots of videos on the F150 as well.
My first task was to add OEM Remote Start. I can't take credit for any of the information I've used in the video, I just assembled it onto YouTube! Trying to add OEM remote start.
YouTube...
We have a 2009 F150 XLT 4.6 3V. Starts fine for several days then all of the sudden it won't crank. It turns over normally but will not start. Then after 10 - 15 minutes of trying it starts. Does fine for a day or two then it happens again. It is not throwing any codes. We have replaced the spark plugs, crank shaft sensor, and checked all the fuses.
View 1 RepliesIt's a balmy -11 c here, my remote start wouldn't work... I go outside and try to manually start the truck and it turns over for 5 or 6 seconds with ZERO catch.... Fuel tank is at 1/4.... Added some fuel just in case... Nothing.... 6700km and it's dead in the driveway.
View 4 RepliesA lady friend of mine got a '99 7.3 CCLB auto dually in a divorce. She doesn't drive it but starts it once a week and yesterday it wouldn't start. It cranked about 10/15sec (after waiting for WTS light to go out) before it sputtered and tried to start but it quit. Then it cranked another 10sec or so and the batteries died. It was about 85deg so it should have started w/o GPs.
Watching the voltmeter, GPs seemed to draw current. There's a lot of corrosion on both batteries so I know that needs to be cleaned up. Assuming the batteries aren't shot, after cleaning the corrosion, is it safe to hook jumper cables to a car to charge the batteries, but disconnect the jumper cables before starting the truck? Or should I use a plug in AC charger? I've never jumped a dual battery vehicle - not even my own 7.3.
She wants to sell it but it's in pretty rough condition - possibly normal for that age with 160K on a work truck. It was used in a business she had with her ex. The valley of death has some wet fuel in it and there is a film of diesel on the fuel bowl, fuel lines and wiring in the vicinity. I could smell the fuel before I opened the hood or tried to start it and it hadn't been run in a week. She says it runs fine and uses no oil but is always rough to start. It rolls rather than barks to life. It's bone stock with flat factory downpipe and airbox.
The engine cover is missing. Connectors and wiring on top of the valve covers appear new. She looked up the value and says it books for $7200 on KBB in its current condition. It was always parked in the sun here in Albuquerque and it shows. Body looks good as far as no rust or dents, but the white paint is faded (flat looking) and the blue interior is also pretty rough with 40/20/40 front seat and cracked dash. If I get it running I'll post it in the for sale section if she doesn't find a local buyer by then.
I have a 2011 Ford FX4. Lately when I start up the truck I get a grinding type noise that seems to be coming from the 4X4 RCS module in the engine compartment. It stops after about 20 seconds or when I put the truck in gear and start driving. It happens every time I start the truck now.
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