Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Barely Start / Missing Bad / Running Rough
Jun 24, 2013
The truck always ran perfect till two days ago. went to start it in the middle of the day , it would barely start, when it did it was missing bad. then seemed to clear up a little after about 30 seconds but still missing. they thought they got some bad fuel. so they dropped the tank cleaned it all out and got new fuel, no change.
Him and a so called mechanic "kid from fire stone" played around switching coil packs around from the injectors with no change. He tells me that the two front cylinders , one on each side are not firing. that those two spark plugs are coming out fuel soaked after running the truck. He thinks it dropped a lifter or push rod popped out of place.
I took my A/E over and came up with codes p0106 - map sensor, and p0135 - 02 sensor. i cleared them and started the truck, shut it back off ran codes again. He also said they pulled the 02 sensor and it still ran the same.
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2012 F-150 5.0 Rough Idle Upon Start up - YouTube
Whenever I first start my 2012 F-150 with the 5.0, it idles rough and if I step on the gas it acts like either an injector is cutting in and out or it's missing. It doesn't really seem like a miss though, more like an injector/fuel issue. What it could be. If I let it sit and idle it won't go away unless I step on the gas and get it > 2500rpm or so.
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Went to start my truck this morning and when I turned it over it barely cranked once. I cleaned the connections on the battery and checked fuses, everything checks out fine. I am not very familiar with Ford trucks. The check engine light doesn't come on until after I try to turn it over.
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I have recently purchased a 2011 F150 Ext cab with 3.5L ecoboost with 69k miles. I have no experience with these engines prior to now. I've always wanted a full size truck and after driving my 98 S10 for 17 years, I decided it was time for a new truck. I hope I made the right choice in going for the 3.5 instead of 5.0.
On to my question. I've noticed that the truck hesitates from a dead stop or anytime the RPM's are under 1k. It feels like its missing or running lean/rich during the spin up of RPM's. When I drive it hard, it does seem to subside for a little, and I've heard people say that they run better when run hard. I can attest to that, but is this hesitation normal for an almost 70k mile engine? I am getting 15ish MPG on almost all city driving since I have bought it, but I do expect that to change (job hunting and current commute is less than 2 miles each way).
The only time I get to open it up is when I go run errands out of the immediate local area or visiting friends and family. On one of those trips, before I noticed the hesitation, I attempted to accelerate from 60 to pass on the expressway and it bucked and resisted like a horse. It finally took off up to 80 and completed that journey with no issue but the check engine light came on for a bit. The check engine light went off when I shut it down and hasn't come back on since.
New ride: 2011 3.5L Ecoboost....
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So, I have a 2007 f250 with the 6.0. When she's cold she starts fine but runs rough like she has a miss. When she warms up the miss goes away and it runs pretty good. But if I shut it off it won't start for about an hour or so.
ICP sensor has been replaced.
FICM is putting out 50v
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I've only had my '13 STX with the 5.0 for a little over a month now, but it seems like the past few days, something's caught my attention. As soon as I start my truck when cold, the idling engine seems to have more vibration than normal, which is to say I can notice a distinct vibration in the cab. It only does this for about 10-15 seconds, and then the vibration goes away when it idles down. The truck still runs and drives fine, and I only notice this when I start the truck without it already being warmed up. I don't recall noticing this the first few weeks I owned the truck, but I also wonder if I'm over-analyzing matters as well.
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On my V8 02 XLT Explorer the engine is running rough like it's missing.
I think a coil may have gone bad,,found a LOT of anti-freeze down in the spark plug hole.
Have replaced the intake but now need to fix the roughness.
Is there any easy way to check each coil? Or should I be checing something else?
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I live in Kansas and was home in Georgia for the last 2 weeks. The truck drove great there after a fuel up started missing and surging at 50 to 70 thought it might have been bad fuel. waited till it was low added Lucas fuel treatment and premium gas still was doing it. no check engine light. went to Advance and fuse for light was blown they checked and was getting mass air flow code. unplugged it and seemed to be better, not perfect but better. plugged it back in and went to do it again. Changed mass air flow night before the drive back to Kansas. Ran well from Savannah to north Georgia then started doing it again the rest of the way home. Going to have advance check code again.
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So I have been fighting a rough running, missing problem. My truck started running rough one day on the way home. I got it scanned, it showed injector contribution balance 1&2. Made sense to me that it threw those codes. I replaced 1 and 2 with oem replacements. Got that all done, truck still ran like crap. I changed fuel filter with motorcraft ones and drained the water separator. That didn't work. I am getting it scanned again, so i will have codes shortly.
Also, for a while it would run with absolute no problem. It was intermittent like that. Run bad run bad run bad and then one day run flawlessly. I though it was electrical. Checked all the common places for chaffing, saw nothing. Even did the wiggle test while it was running, no change. But it hasn't been intermittent for a while now.
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I have a 1972 MG midget and recently rebuilt the carbs, (needles&seats, floats, needles&jets, new fuel pump&filter) along with ignition,(points, condenser, rotor and plugs), checked timing and adjusted the valves. After tuning and balancing the carbs I take it for a test drive, it runs perfectly for about 5 - 7 miles then starts missing and running rough. I thought this might be heat related so I ran on a cold day with no change. I also put in my old coil with no change. After 25 years this is the first time I have been stumped.
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We have been having issues with my son's 97 Sierra running rough when it is cold/damp. It feels like the engine is missing.
Today, which is warm and dry, it started running really bad and it was all he could do to limp it home. It seemed like it wanted to idle fine but when he tried to rev it up the tach would start jumping and it seemed like it was missing.
Could this be a bad cap/rotor? The engine has 200,000 miles and we've never changed the cap/rotor. I changed the plugs/wires probably 100,000 miles ago.
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2011 XLT 5.0 Coyote. Truck has a performance problem - it's missing almost unnoticeable at idle, but it's obvious (if you care to notice) when you hold the throttle barely open. Idle seems smooth, but if I hold it at about 1500 rpms, it most clearly and definitely is missing.
However, since there are "no codes" and since mode shows "no misfires". This really manifests itself when I'm towing a 6k pound trailer and the truck can't pull it up a 2% grade unless I drop it into 3rd gear. Of course, if I drive it like a race car it's a beast. But I can't leave rubber at every red light, especially when towing.
Fuel trims look fine (ST bounces between -4 to +4, LT sits right at +0.5). Cleaned the TB. Cleaned the MAF. Brand new Motorcraft plugs gapped at .045. CHT sensors read 205 on one bank and 198 on the other. Coolant sensor seems find. Haven't done a voltage test, but TPS data in the OBD seems smooth.
How to test the coil packs (neither does Ford). They want me to replace all 8, but I'm not doing that unless I can see real evidence a coil pack is bad.
I'm no novice however I'm losing my mind that "everything is normal" yet the truck so clearly has a problem. This has been going on for months and I'm at my wits end.
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My truck has been having this issue pretty much since I have had it, but it seems to be getting worse, or so I think.
When the truck is cold, it does not want to move very well. Like it's missing, and it does this until it gets warmer. Also, I have puffs of blue smoke come out the tailpipe when this occurs with it cold.
Injectors? Injector o-rings? Stiction?
FICM volts are good at 46.5v-48v when cranking.
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I have a 2010 ford f150 with a 4.6 engine. it has developed a loud noise like a diesel on steroids and also sounds like its going to fly apart and it also misses when it does this . now this is how I have narrowed it down to make it happen because it does not do it all the time. it mainly does it to and from longer trips like 45 minutes or more then coming into traffic to a crawl or idle it will start making the noise . also when I pull into my drive and go from drive to reverse and go to back up it will also make the noise. I have no lights on the dash or codes. could this be a coil pack ? I had a coil go a few years back but it acted up under load on a hill and just missed with no noise.
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My 2011 F150 5.0 was bought used a year ago, and ran like new. A few months ago, several things started acting up.
* clicking at idle. Just a tick-tick-tick-tick kinda like a diesel. I swear it just started, but the dealer tells me it's "normal".
* Oil - I'm "losing" about a half quart a month. No leaks. 1500 miles after a change, it's dingy. (not dirty just brown) Dealer tells me it's "normal" that these trucks consume a little oil and that it will get dirty.
All that I could ignore but this is what bothers me:
The truck seems to struggle, mildly, to maintain speed on hills. It'll drop to 1k rpms before downshifting. Just a pig. Of course if I stomp it to the floor I get a good response, but it is just sluggish and wimpy when driving "normally". Also, when maintaining speed, there's a barely noticeable missing/slipping happening. When I pull a couple thousand pounds it really struggles.
This is happening. Three dealers tell me there's nothing wrong with the truck. After pressing the first dealer they admitted they never drove the truck. The second dealer called me to pick it up because nothing was wrong and also admitted to not having driven it. After I demanded they drive it, they called back still saying nothing is wrong. "The computer would show it if there was a problem." The third dealer has it now, drove it this morning, guess what? "There's nothing wrong, maybe you can come and show us."
I cannot believe the industry has lost the ability to diagnose vehicles beyond what a computer tells them. Do techs not check compression or ignition or fuel pressure any more? Seems to me a valve issue for example could be the cause of all my symptoms, or fuel delivery, or weak spark, none of which would show up on the freaking computer.
Coyote 5.0 engine and the 6R80 trans.
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2000 F250, 7.3, 170K, running rough, knocking loudly, missing, shaking, no power to get up driveway, intermittent, no codes spit out at all. No smoke visible, no leaks visible, New fuel filter, air filter, update cam sensor, new fuel rail lift pump, new uvc harness, new glow plug relay.
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I have a 2001 Escape I bought new so many years ago. It only has 90k miles. The other day I drove it to work running fine. It rained REALLY hard that day and when I came out to go home it would barely start, missing really bad. Limped it home and into my garage where I examined it for water under the hood. Nothing. Started pulling things apart, nothing on the engine, around the coils, in the spark plug conduits, etc., dry as a bone. Let it sit for a couple of days and no change. Replaced the coils just for grins. Drained the fuel from the injector assy, looking for water. Nada. Verified spark, fuel, compression. Still, very difficult to start and when it does it's only running on cyls 1,2 & 3 because I can disconnect the coils on 4,5,6 and it makes no difference.
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I have a 2012 4x4 EB CC. In 6th gear, on the highway between 1200-1700 RPM's, during a slow acceleration, it feels like it is missing or shuddering. It is most pronounced going up a hill, and/or towing something. As soon as you get above about 1700, it goes away. Rig needs to be fully warmed up (not just the engine, but tranny/drivetrain). Needless to say, this is generally from about 52-65 mph, which is most highway (not freeway) driving I do. At times it's so bad my wife says it's time to get a Chebby.
Had it in about a year ago, couldn't duplicate it. Took it in this last week. Did the TSB on the plugs, and was told that would fix it. It didn't. Took it back in; they couldn't duplicate the issue. Rotated the tires hoping that might do something. Took the head service guy for a ride, and made it happen; it was very obvious then. It seems like the tachometer should bounce or shudder a bit when it's doing it, but nothing. It's going back in on Monday to see what they can do.
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I have a 2000 E350 boxtruck with a 5.4 auto. The motor is a new rebuilt with about 4000 mile, coils were replaced with motor, injectors were rebuilt with motor.Today (500 miles from home) the truck died. I was going up a slight hill on an interstate. It will still start, but runs very rough and when I put it in gear and step on the gas it dies.
So I had it towed to a garage. While pushing it into the garage I noticed my gas cap was missing. I know it was on 45 min earlier because I got gas. Did I forget to put in back on? probably.. But I wondering if the missing gas cap could cause the truck to run bad,vary bad?
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When I start my car it seems like some of the cylinders are missing for like 5 seconds then runs fine. Sometimes its quite violent and this morning it stalled the first time I tried. The colder it is outside the worse this becomes.
The car is still under warranty, but you have to wait a week to get the car into the dealer here and a battery wouldn't be covered anyway. Here is what I have so far.
Bad battery : The car has 45k miles on it and as far as I know the battery is stock. Also, when I did the 40k service I seem to remember something about the battery on the invoice (I will look), but I was too busy worrying about the bald tires. I do generally leave my ipod plugged into my car stereo (which charges it) over night, so that is putting a drain on it. I am going to take it out of the car tonight and see if that makes a difference. I suppose I could take the battery to O'Reilly's and have them test it, but it seems like it would be in their best interest to lie.
Coolant temperature sensor : The car was recently in the shop and they said they found a small coolant leak and fixed it, maybe the sensor became damaged? Most reports I see about this suggest the car runs rough for much longer than mine and must be fed gas.
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The other day I was backing our TT up the driveway. The engine sounded almost like a diesel, and was running rough.
Our driveway is not flat, but it is darn close. The TT is a small lightweight one, so I was not pushing a lot of weight either.
My truck has also done this while just backing up the driveway to park in the garage.
If I rev it up it smooths out, but then may drop back down to run rough again or smooth out. Totally unpredictable.
No codes are thrown. Is this more of the crappy cam phaser junk?
I run Motorcraft Oil/Oil filters and change at the recommended intervals.
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