Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Automatic Transmission Gear Indicator
May 29, 2016
I have a 2011 F-150 with the center console shift lever. I mainly drive the truck during the day so it's possible I never notice this but do the gear indicators illuminate when the lights are on? I happened to look down when I put the truck in gear and noticed that the selector has a red light showing its position but it was really hard to see what gear you have selected.
Normally I just pull it down until I hit D, knowing it clicks 3 times, and I'm off. If you do happen to go into M then you see it on the dash. So I don't know if I've never noticed it or if I have a burned out bulb and its no longer lit up. It's not a big deal but I always like to replace burnt out dash lights just so it looks good but I don't know the answer to this one.
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Just got my 2011 Ecoboost FX4 on June 15th. For most of the time I had it, the in-dash LCD showed the 6 gears (on the right side of the display) for the trans & highlighted which gear it was in at any time (in Automatic mode, not select-shift). It disappeared & I can't figure out how to get it back?????? Nothing is listed in the manual.
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2001 Accord, 6cyl. 3.0, automatic transmission. The last few weeks its been shifting a little rougher, but nothing thatd alarm me. Then last night, the check engine light popped on and the little green light around the D4 on the dash began blinking. I turned it off for a minute, restarted it and blinking light was gone but not check engine. Sat there and shifted through all the gears and the only thing I don't like is when i go from D3 to 2 and back. It shifts real hard there. Not as hard shifting back from 2 to D3 though. All other gears shift fine.
Also, I checked the fluid on the dipstick and it was right under the lower dot. Its my wifes old car and she "doesn't remember" if shes ever had the tranny flushed and a buddy said if it hasn't been flushed regularly by this point(125K miles), not a good idea to flush, just drain and refill. (Green blinking light around gear indicator) and what was the fix? Is it difficult to drain/refill the tranny and can I refill this model through the dipstick or do I have to get underneath? Do I REALLY have to use Honda ATF only or can I use whatever??
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How to get the gear indicator lights to stay on? I can do it manually but it has to be every time I restart the motor. I think it completes the instrument cluster with it one.
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I have a 2010 Corolla S with automatic transmission. Today it started giving a push or a jerk when the 1st gear drops, so from 1st going to 2nd it pushes or jerks the car ahead. Not sure what is wrong with it, it has 56000 miles on it.
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I have a new 2011 F150 4x4 6.2 liter with about 1200 miles, 6R80 6 speed Transmission. I haven't liked the shift quality since buying a little over a month ago. I think the upshift from first to second is kind of rough and it feels like it's slipping a little from second to third gear. I've read a lot of negative posts/reviews on the 6R80 transmission, and some people have said it got better over time, or it got better with more aggressive driving. I do notice it shifts better if I drive it a little harder. The build date according to the sticker is 4/11 and I don't think there are any TSB's for PCM updates for this year/engine/model. I'm wondering if I should bring the truck in now for the dealer to take a look or drive it for awhile longer to see if it gets better?
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I have a 2011 F150 EB SCREW 4x4. Built in september 2011. The issue seems to have started recently as follows:
1st incident- driving normal, came to stop, accelerate from stop (normally) and the truck was stuck in first gear. Pulled over, shut it off, waited, restarted and seemd ok.
2nd incident (today)- driving normal at around 40mph in 6th gear and all of a sudden the transmission violently jumped to 1st gear for no reason! Then slowly geared back up to 6th again.
Also, I have sometimes noticed that soon after startup, but adequately warmed up, the truck will seem to keep pulling forward at a stop light with the brakes on hard...rpm is at normal idle but it seems like the torque converter will not "let go".
I'm going to be calling the dealer but need feedback, especially regarding any TSB's, SSM's etc for this?
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I have a 36 foot motor home on a 2000 Ford F53 chassis. (similar to single axle freight trucks and school busses) After getting one set of the rear wheels partially stuck, which resulted in some spinning of that side, the overdrive off light on the shift lever began to blink and the service engine soon light came on. The fault code said, "speed sensor showing more than one mile per hour". Now the automatic transmission sometimes will not shift into first gear after stopping and has to be manually downshifted, after which, it works fine.
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2008 Hyundai Accent 3 door the automatic transmission indicator light on the center console is not working anymore.
There is no mention of it in the Owners Manual. Every other bulb is referenced. Should I junk it or replace the bulb?
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1998 Ford f150 172984 miles automatic with 4x4 runs and drives transmission is going out will not hit 3rd gear have to drive in 2nd. Is there a fix without pulling the transmission?
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I have a 2009 f150 is there any way to adjust the sensitivity of when the automatic head lights come on?
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Well I've been towing for almost 150,000 miles with a 2012 6.7 Lariat 4 wheel drive. Things have been going pretty well with the truck. I noticed some sluggish and indecisive type shifts early on but now I'm worried. I depend on this truck for pulling a horse trailer all over the country and Canada. Just recently I've been getting a hard shift or a thump or a clunk when shifting up or down in to second gear. I'm at about 152,000 miles and did a hot flush with LV ATF at about 148,000 miles. Should I worry or keep running?
I have a 97' PSD I'm thinking of giving a nice paint job and a flat bed but am reluctant to do so due to financial concerns and the fact that some folks may not want to see me pull up in an old truck no matter how nice it looks. My tranny temps have been stating under 200F and I really keep an eye on the temps when running up and down the hills while towing. The trailer is a 35' Gooseneck with a max GVRW or 14,000 pounds. Should I wait for the tranny to grenade and then drop in a built tranny and if so who's building these tranny's stronger than stock? Long time no see but this site has always been my go to for all my Ford truck questions, upgrades, etc.
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I purchased a used 2012 F-150 Lariat in April, has 46,000 miles on it. I think the 3-year bumper-to-bumper expired about 2 weeks ago.
I know I've seen the heated mirror indicator light come on before, but I have not needed to use it much since April. The light would not come on today - I don't know if the mirrors actually got heated or not. I really did not need to use them, but wanted to see if it would remove the condensation from sitting outside over night.
Is it possible that the heated mirror would not come on because its too warm ? (i.e., 47 F in my case) For the first time ever, I used the power sliding rear window last night - is it possibly related to that ? Maybe its not fully closed ?
Is it possibly just a burned out bulb ? Or maybe a 'fuse' I can check ?
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I bought a used 2011 ford f150 crew cab lariat. I love it!! 5.0 liter, towing package. I notice that when I turn on the headlights, there is no indication on the display that they are on ! When I put it on high beam, I see the blue light icon on the display.
2. Another question, it has the headed mirror option, but I can't find any control that turns this on. Is this automatically controlled??
3. One more. It doesn't have daylight running lights and when I leave the headlights on and exit the vehicle, the headlight stay on! There is an auto delay digital switch on the display but I think that only applies to how long the headlight stay on when exiting the vehicle and the light switch is on auto. I am confused about the light setting on the truck.
The truck only has 24k on it so is still under bumper to bumper warranty.
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I have a H&S mini max. Controller and have installed the mild download and run on the street setting for every day and tow setting while towing my fithwheel, when I just took it out for a test drive towing the fit wheel going up hill it kept shifting up and down which sure felt like 3rd and 5th because rpm would go from about 3500 to 1500 back and forth so it sure felt like it was not hitting 4th, could this be a controller issue?
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The turn indicator is annoyingly loud? Does the small speaker under the dash make all the tones for dash functions, including the blinker noise? I'm tempted to put a piece of sound deadening foam over that little sucker.
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So couple of days ago, I went shopping. no issues. after shopping i fired it up, no issues, put it reverse, car was shaking, put the car in neutral. No issues, put the car in drive car is shaking again. i started to drive no shaking, however the car felt like it had no power, I only felt shaking during switching from R TO N TO D. So I change to manual mode and see the gear was 3rd. i was not able to change gears manually, neither did the tranny switched them for me. I drove home about a 3 miles. shut the car off, restart it...gears and car drives normal. Took to dealership, they checked it...and of course no issues. Ihave 44k miles and 50k warranty expires next week, nice, huh? got another year of powetrain warranty left.
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2200 Miles... It will not shift into 2nd gear in automatic and the rpms race up to 4000 when going about 20 mph. The only way to get it to work again is turning car off and on again. It has only happened twice.
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I just noticed last night that my transmission was slipping in 3rd gear, it's an automatic. I added just about a quart of transmission fluid today....took a little drive and it still seems to be having the same problem? What might be causing this besides needing to get a new/rebuilt transmission?
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So I have a 2006 Hyundai accent with 75000KM on it. I notice when it shifts from 1st to 2nd gear sometimes it will jerk. It feels almost as if it goes to neutral and then sifts, causing the whole car to jerk. It use to only do it when the car was cold (first 15 min of the day) but now it seems to be doing it all the time and getting worse. I have had the transmission fluid replaced, but it doesn't seem to work.
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I have a rather strange issue with my '11 sedan gl and it appears to be getting worse but the issue is so intermittent that its hard to find a pattern.
The problem is that sometimes in the first 5 minutes of a drive, I will have very rough gear changes. Its an all or nothing usually. If I start my drive, it will either do it or it wont and if it does, its gonna last a good 5 minutes or so at every gear change.
When the gear changes, I will feel a jolt a bit like I would tap the brake a little and the gear will engage but will take a good second or two before doing so. When the car runs smooth, the gear changes are smooth and quick but I just get that strange behavior once in a while and when it happens, I always wonder if the transmission will break on me.
The occurrence of this is rather concerning as of late. Last winter as an example, it happened only 2-3 times the whole winter. Lately however, it is almost doing it every day (I've had it happen maybe 3 times this week).
I went to the dealer. No error codes and they can't find anything wrong with it and since this happens only during the first 5 minutes or so for the entire day, when they do a test run they of course can't spot the problem. I went to a local garage and same thing there again same response.
At first I thought that I didn't leave the car idle long enough during the cold winter days but we are in the 20 degrees Celsius now. At startup, I always wait until the engine drops the rpm back at 1000 or so before getting on my way (which is between 30 to 60 seconds).
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