Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Air Filter Box Has Large Gap In It
Oct 26, 2015
I've got a 2013 ford f150 XLT with 3.5L ecoboost that I purchased brand new. Been doing 5k mile interval oil changes with full synthetic. Oher than that its never needed any work/service done.
Well, I just hit 20,000 miles and I figured it was time to change the air filter. Bought one off amazon and went to change it out. That's when I discovered that the air filter box had a large gap in it from where it was incorrectly installed by dealership/factory. It was sealed incorrectly because the plastic barrier mat at the front of the truck was caught in between the two air box pieces creating a 0.5-1 inch gap in the air box seal.
I figure its been like that the entire 20,000 miles as I've never noticed it, and I've been driving around with essentially no air filter (or little air filtration). I installed the new filter correctly and fixed the problem
My question is:
Did this hurt the truck at all?
Can I expect any negative consequences from this?
Do I need to perform any additional maintenance because of this?
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My wife purchased a new F150 4x4 in late 09. We have driven it about 5000 miles. It is garaged year around. Her brother offered to do the first oil change but can't get the filter off. He has tried every type of wrench and has the metal body of the filter nearly completely torn off up to the rim of the filter near the seat and it still won't screw off. we are thinking that is might have gotten cross threaded at the factory and over tightened.
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I broke a nipple that a small hose connects to while I was changing my air filter. What this is and possibly some fix-it tips. I attached a couple of pics. one broke and one not broke.
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When going over large bumps and dips I'm hearing a very high pitched squeaking noise coming from the rear end. Over small bumps I hear nothing, it's only the large bumps where I hear the squeak.
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Noticed change in power after changing the fuel filters on 6.7 .... Seems like it has a fuel restriction at times maybe even air somewhere in the line. Thought I felt the truck hesitate after hitting the gas and Cavitating when I hit the gas petal. Both new filters are motorcraft parts. I did follow the procedure after installing filters by turning the key on 6 times waiting 30 seconds in between. Could it be a problem with the fuel pump. I should say I didn't have this until I changed the primary filter.
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Was going to change my transmission fluid and filter today but when I got under the truck to see what tools I needed, I was not sure I could drop the pan enough to get it off.
I have a 2009 V10 4X4 and the exhaust pipe catalytic are running down each side right under where the transmission pan is. It looks like I can get to all the bolts, but because of the catalytic are right under the flange of the pan on each side, the pan will not be able to drop straight down. It looks like it may drop about 3 inches before it hits the catalytic.
Will that be enough to slide the pan forward or maybe tilt it to get it out? Has anyone dropped the pan on their 4X4 with the 5RW100? Just looking to have someone say I can get it out before I try it.
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I got ready to change oil in our '09 5.4 SD and I ran across a passage in the owners manual that stated that if you use a non-Motorcraft oil filter it may cause engine knocking upon start up.
Our truck knocks for a second or so when it starts. Kinda' reminds me of the piston slap that occurred at start up with the old Ford 300 inline 6 cylinder engines of the past after they got some miles on them. Sounds somewhat similar. This engine has 35,000 actual miles so I wouldn't thing excessive wear would be the culprit.
I'm using a Bosch Premium oil filter now after having heard and read how they are superior in their filtering ability.
Just wondered if any of you guys have run into a similar situation and if the Motorcraft filter in fact makes a difference in reference to start up knock
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Started a while back and comes and goes. Only commonality I have found is the truck needs to be warmed up for it to happen and usually after a few hours of driving. The downshift from 5th or 6th into fourth, at times, produces anywhere from a light to violent clunk, feels like a typical tranny slip. It will do it while in cruise and it will do it if I don't have the cruise on. Can't figure out if it is going to be a tune issue or hardware.
It does it only downshifting into 4th from 5th or 6th, no other downshifting is a problem and usually the 6th to 4th produces the worst results. At highway speeds that is usually a shift from around 2Krpm to just over 3K rpm (6th to 4th) if it is from 5th it is about 2500 to 3K. Start from a stop and go WOT and there are no issues.
Having it in Tow/Haul or not makes no difference as far as I can tell. IT can do it on one hill and the next time be just fine or do it 2-3 hills in a row. After this last trip it will do it at 9K feet or at 60 feet elevation, didn't make a difference there either.
Another issue that may be hurting the computer is the truck originally came with the 235 tires, it now has 285's and the rear is only 3.31. I plan on going with 265's and maybe still a gear change to 3.73's in the future. I usually only notice this on long trips, first was a 1500mile hauling an ATV, second was last week during a 2500 mile empty. Although I have had it do it a few times locally. I figure those bigger tires can't be good especially with that high of a rear for the management system.
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What are some pros/cons you have with yours? Both 5.4 supercabs xlt im looking at just cant decide. The 09 has a overall higher rating but its not to much more.
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So there I was doing a simple oil change and when I took the filter out I noticed the little spring on top, in the center of the big spring (oil filter adapter) cocked to the side with the little plastic piece broken.
does anybody know if I can replace just the oil filter adapter (spring thingy that goes in the middle of the filter when installed) or do I have to replace the whole filter bowl assembly? And if so where would be a good place to get this part?
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Changing tranny fluid/filter today, all has been going great until I went to take the filter o-ring out that didn't come with the filter. It will not come out! made a hook tool out of an old tooth brush like someone on here did, o-ring wont budge. Tried a hook pick, it wont dudge (actually bent the tip on the pick and started to tear the o-ring). Everything is ready to go back together and get filled, but this stupid o-ring will not come out!
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On my previous 1992 F-350, when I serviced the E40D 2WD trans I replaced the filter during a trans service. I read about some filters falling down inside pan causing shifting issues. There is an aftermarket clip sold that holds the filter in the up position and prevents it from falling into pan.
Is the clip also used on the 2WD 4R100? is it the same issue of potentially falling down in pan as was the case with the E40D? Preparing to service my 2003 F-350 2WD 4R100 and install a new filter and want to be sure I have all parts/supplies ready to go.
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After replacing fuel filter, pump relay, and air filter for good measure my 2002 f250 v10 gas engine still wont start. What to do?
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New 2014 SE 2.5L owner here. Gonna Amsoil my rig when it hits 5K. I bought a filter wrench and drain plug gaskets online. What's the torque spec. on the filter housing and drain plug?
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I have an 09 matrix 1.8 130k mi. developed a ticking in the top end, after an oil change it went away and came back 1.5k later, pulled the eng oil filter and found some fine metal, my question is does this eng have ocv filters for the ocv solenoids ? if so where ?
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I am trying to change the oil on my dad's 2012 corolla LE, and this is the first oil change since it's been out of the 25k mile service plan. I ordered the exact 64mm 14 flute wrench and the filter housing WILL NOT unscrew. I have looked at several videos online and I am sure I'm going the right way. I have tried kicking it, hitting it with a rubber mallet... and nothing! My friend has a breaker bar we are gonna try to use in a little while... Is there any history of dealerships sabotaging this kind of thing so you have to bring it back?
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Can I replace just the oil filter without draining the oil? The reason is I have changed the oil today, but could not get the oil filter housing off, so when I get the proper tool in a couple of days - can I replace just the filter? I mean, will the oil stay in the sump or will all of it drain through the oil filter housing when I open it?
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