Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: ABS And Stability Control Lights On - Speed Sensor?
Jun 13, 2015
2009 F-150 FX4 SuperCrew 4X4 5.4L
My ABS and stability control lights are on. I had the codes pulled today (listed in order):
1) C1298 (Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal Fault)
2) C1165 (Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure)
3) C1963 (Stability Control Inhibit Warning)
4) C1299 (Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal Fault)
5) C1175 (Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure)
I'll ignore the stability control code for now since I'm sure it is tied to the speed sensor errors. Anyways, I decided to inspect the rear wheels and I found this sucker just hanging beneath the right rear brake caliper:
Is this a speed sensor? Where does it plug into? Diagrams would be extremely useful! I am planning on ordering 2 new sensors for each rear wheel but I don't know where to begin.
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Ok well I am not much for roasting the tires anymore but like to wheel a little, but how in the heck do I turn off the traction and/or stability control? Never done it before.
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I have a 2009 Pontiac Vibe with 43,000 miles. Recently the check engine light, the vehicle stability control light and the traction control system light all came on simultaneously. Since then they have all come on or all gone off several times. Usually once they come on, they stay on for the remainder of the trip. Sometimes they will still be on when I next start the car, sometimes they will be off. What might be causing this?
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Evertime I turn left the brake light, traction control and stability control lights come on and the car starts dinging. Mechanic says it could be front wheel bearings because they are tied to the ABS system??? But I have been seeing alot about wheel speed sensors?
Second, everytime I brake suddenly, a cloud of smoke comes from the front end and there is a burning oil smell. The oil is fine and no leaks. Again mechanic says it could be a cracked CV boot throwing grease?
Lastly everytime I put in reverse or when I lightly put pressure on the brakes when driving I get this noise like a humming (errrrrrr) noise. Its not the grinding/squealing noise you would get when brake pads needs replaced. I only have 60k miles on this.
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I got in the car (2010 Prius IV, 170k miles) this a.m and the brake, ABS, & stability/traction control lights all just lit-up. Can run & drives just fine.
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So today I start my car, I get the check engine on (steady not flashing) and have stability control flashing with my traction control light on. I found out it could be the gas cap not on right so I removed it and screwed it on again, check engine light was still on though. However, after starting the car again after a drive it was gone .
I do turn off stability control sometimes if it's nice out?
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I owned a 2012 Ford Mustang that had a safety issue with the stability control. At random times around 50MPH, the stability control would randomly kick on, cutting throttle and applying the brakes - sometimes with force - causing the car to slow down, shimmy, and sway from side to side. These incidents didn't happen often, but when they did - watch out! Since the dealer couldn't replicate the issue, I decided to take a video of the car performing it's deed (and others have as well. This is by no means limited to just my car). Ford - at the corporate level - basically told me that unless the problem was happening when the dealership was looking at it, they weren't going to do a thing about it. As far as they were concerned, what I was experiencing was perfectly acceptable, and apparently normal.
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Need to know of an issue that causes the stability control light to come on for no apparent reason? I took it to Ford, they said no codes found and they replaced an ABS sensor, less than 5 miles after leaving, sitting in stop and go slow moving traffic it comes on again. I've been taking pictures to show them the randomness of this and they said they would look at it again.
Some mornings it comes on the when I leave and stays on and may be on after I get in after work (before I even move out of the parking spot), some days it's only in the morning and not on after work, some days it's on after work, some days it's not on at all but that has been rare that I don't see it at least once during the day, just seems odd and random so I suspect an issue.
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I cant find any info on this for the B6..
Is it just a standard LSD?
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Yesterday, my vehicle stability control light came on along with the ABS symbol. I stopped the car and turned it back on and the car would not come out of Park.
I restarted the car and was able to shift into drive but, both symbols remained and the MFD showed no regenerative braking and the brakes were clearly mechanical only by sound and feel.
I think I took a rather short trip with the parking brake partially engaged, I was talking to my son who was home for the weekend.
I set and released it several times with no results. I finally parked the car, set the brake and checked for codes in my Scangauge-none. But, I did a "clear codes" anyhow.
I've only driven home yesterday and this morning to work. So far, nothing unusual, I have my fingers and stubby little toes crossed.
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Is there any way to completely disable traction and stability control. I know pushing the button is supposed to disable stability control but I was told that you can't actually completely disable it.
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I have a check engine light on which diagnosed by Autozone relates to O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Sensor 1.
I realize sensor 1 is upstream before cat converter. However, I've received varying opinions as to which side is Bank 2, driver or passenger.
2010 F150 4.6 V8, produced in 5/10
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Where the oil pressure sensor is located on a 2013 F150 with the V8 is located?
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I have a 2009 Ford Escape XLT, 4 cyl. and in the summer I had the vehicle in as the speed sensor failed. Since that time I have an ongoing ticking sound (sounds like a diesel vehicle). I had the vehicle into my local dealer and after looking over the vehicle they stated that it was "normal". However, my warranty is up in January 2014 and this sound is horrible. Below is a video of the sound.
[URL] .....
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2006 Camry LE 4cyl ABS no stability control, rear drum brakes. The brakes stop the car, but the pedal does go to the floor and it doesn't brake with confidence.
Prior to the repairs everything looked normal (aside from one wheel cylinder, see pic) and there was no leakage. The fluid was at the proper level though dirty.
I replaced the master cylinder and did a complete fluid flush and bleed. I also changed the front pads (it was time anyway) and the passenger side brake hose. I was going to to both hoses, but I wound up snapping the steel line on the PS and spent most of the day dealing with that. I decided not to press my luck with the DS.
I might change the DS hose, since I already bought it. At this point the only thing left is a weak caliper or wheel cylinder seal, or a bad hose (though I don't see any visible bulging when brakes are applied).
My wife was driving on the freeway last week and she applied brakes but they barely stopped the car and the brake light came on. She was able to limp it home without incident but the brake light stayed on and the car was braking poorly. The next day I inspected everything and found no leaks, and the fluid was not low but it was dirty. I drove the car and noticed braking performance was lacking (though it was never great to begin with) but I never saw a brake light. The brake light isn't on at this point.
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VSC, VCS OFF and Check Engine Light .... all came on a few minutes ago while out for a Sunday afternoon drive. Depressing/releasing the "VSC OFF" button multiple times did nothing. All 3 lights now stay on. Checked the manual which said to take in to Lexus dealer asap but could continue driving....something about vehicle stability control system not activating.
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'13 Sonata GLS w/ 4100 miles - when snow was on the ground 4 days ago, the ESC symbol would occasional flash indicating loss of traction (I was sort of pushing it around some corners for fun) and it seemed to correct throttle, etc. - everything working as it should.
Then yesterday on the commute home with nothing on the ground the light came on and stayed on while driving local & highway. This morning's start-up it was gone. Commute home and it came on again 5 minutes into the drive. But again another restart the light doesn't stay on.
I tried reading codes with an OBD scanner but it says NO CODE - the light is currently off, but was hoping it stored something. Manual says possible ESC malfunction if the light stays on, but it's been erratic.
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Recently, my CEL came on. I had the guys at Autozone read the code and they said it was the knock sensor on bank 2. I disconnected the battery to clear it but after 100 miles or so it came back on. Idling, my engine runs as quietly as it ever has (can't tell it's running if the windows are up) so I'm hoping that the sensor has gone bad. I can't hear any knock at any speed but the re-appearance of the light has noticeably affected the engine performance. Any link that even shows where the sensor is located? If I can find it, I can replace it.
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Associated symptoms include no power steering, complete lack/absence of stability and traction control. This has happened to me a few times in the past, but has never stayed in after multiple start ups (and other remedial action). 2-3 times it's happened on startup, and cleared after a restart, one time while driving, and cleared on its own. This is going on the list of issues with less than 7k on the car.... 2012 3.6 sel
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When I am at a full stop, such as waiting at a stoplight, and I press hard on the brake pedal, the stability control light flashes on the instrument panel.
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Ford Tech. told me today the reason my a/c wouldn't cool is I have a bad evap. temp. sensor and this part was "non-replaceable" the fix is a HVAC Box from ford, (price includes a h/core replacement since dash would already be out) it has 85000 miles 2010 f150 Screw 4x4.is this my only option for repairing my a/c.
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