Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 5.4L Engine - Cylinder 3 Misfire
Jan 9, 2015
I've been chasing this misfire for about two months now. I have changed all eight plugs, changed the coil and even change head gaskets. After all of that I'm still getting a misfire on cyl3 code. I've inspected the resistance from the fuel injectors, they are all about 12ohms. What else do I need to check before I sell this thing off?
Background: It has just under 130k miles and I have had zero problems until it got cold this season. Once the mornings hit about 20F degrees I had a check engine light come on. Maybe a little bit of a shake at first but after it warms up it drives excellent. It has never sounded like there is a misfire, it has always ran smooth.
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My 2010 F150 randomly feels like I'm driving over the rumble strips as well as a small jerk like there is a cylinder misfire. If keep it at constant speed it still happens, but under cruise control it stops. Even when load increases like going up a hill.
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I have a 2013 F150 6.2L and it wont start. It was running great and when I drove it around the corner it just shut down no clunk no warning just bam shut off. I had a engine code P0355 ( which indicated cylinder 5 coil malfunction). changed the coil and it will not fire the engine code has gone away but it will still not fire. I changed the oil just to be safe and no metal shavings in it.... Turns over just fine but will not fire. I added more fuel just to be safe ( thinking maybe I had bad fuel but that didn't work either.
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I have a problem with a 2009 Ford Ranger with a 4.0 V6 that no one can seem to figure out. It occasionally goes into fits & misfires on cylinder 2 at idle. This is a sporadic problem, it does not do it all the time. Code stored is always P0302 (misfire at cylinder 2). Occasionally it will also store a code P0000 (random misfire at startup) in addition to the P0302. The engine runs great at all throttle settings other than idle & even when this condition occurs it will run fine as soon as I step on the throttle pedal. The problem only occurs when the vehicle is partially warmed up. It is OK (but not perfect) when very cold & the problem goes away & the engine idles just fine after driving down the highway 10 or 20 miles & fully warming up. If I just putter around town it will sometimes do it all day, other times the misfire will go away completely after shutting the engine off for a few minutes & then restarting (this is after the engine is fully warmed up).
Strangely, running the air conditioner seems to reduce the roughness of the misfire or cause the problem to cease. The truck has 180,000 miles on it & was previously used by a friend of mine who was a rural mail carrier so the engine has a lot of hours idling in addition to the total miles. It does not use or leak any oil or smoke & runs great except for when it is misfiring on cylinder 2 at idle. It does not use any coolant so it cannot be leaking coolant into that cylinder under certain conditions. The truck was always serviced at a Ford dealership & received impeccable maintenance as this was used as a mail truck. After I clear the computer by disconnecting the battery & leaving it over night, the truck will run fine for a while but eventually the misfire at idle returns & always is on cylinder 2. Sometimes it takes a month for the problem to return, sometimes just a few days. Spark plugs & wires have been replaced. Using a spark tester I have verified that the coil is firing when the misfire condition occurs. I have not checked fuel pressure but did replace the fuel filter. I cannot find any vacuum leaks & the engine normally pulls 20 inches of vacuum at idle when it is idling correctly & around 17 when it is misfiring. I replaced the intake manifold O rings & fuel injector O rings just in case, as it was easy, & I wanted to move the number 2 fuel injector to another cylinder to see if the problem followed to that cylinder.
After switching the number 2 & number 6 injectors the fault code still identifies a cylinder number 2 misfire (P0302) which rules out a bad injector. I checked the IAC valve & it is clean & I do not think the misfiring cylinder would always be the same if the IAC valve was the problem. I have not replaced the coolant temperature sensor as I do not think it could cause the same cylinder to always be the culprit either. There are no leaks in the hose between the MAF sensor & the throttle body & the hose is clean. The throttle body is free of carbon. The compression in all cylinders is fine (& even). I do not want to pay a mechanic a ton of money to start throwing parts at this thing & maybe get lucky & fix it. I am thinking that the ECU could be the problem (especially because the problem goes away for a while after flashing the ECU) but do not want to spend the money on a new ECU & then find out the problem is still present. Other than the ECU, I have addressed all the systems & components that are specific to cylinder number 2 that I can think of, & most that are not specific to cylinder 2 but specific to idle quality. However, I have not been able to fix the problem.
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So, my 2014 Tiguan started having a misfire on cylinder 1. It has 35000kms with 80% highway. I have an APR stg 1 tune. The misfire started at 30,000 or so. I took it to the dealer and they said I would have to get the tune removed before they could look at it... I did some trouble-shooting on my own. Moved coils, stayed on #1. Replaced coils. It came back. Changed plugs, stayed on #1. Drove three hours to get the tune removed and back three hours... The whole week the dealer has been hesitant to say they will do anything on warranty. Spent most of their time trying to prove my changing the plugs and coils caused the problem. Finally, yesterday they put a call in to VW Canada who agreed to change the injector and manifold. The dealer called to say I need the carbon cleaning done. Of course I do... I agreed to it but asked for pictures. I change my oil every 5000 kms and drive almost all the time on the highway.
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I have a 2009 Accent. It has a misfire on cyl 3. I've changed the spark plugs... no change. I swapped around the coils... no change. The misfire stays on cyl 3. What are my next steps to isolate and resolve this misfire?
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I have 97 150 it has a misfire on cylinder 4 and 6. I put new coil packs on and new plug wires. Spark plugs are only a year old. what else it could be?
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So recently my 2009 hyundai accent has been idling rough, and has been very sluggish when accelerating. Usually the rough idling is the worst when the car is first turned on and tends to tone down as the car keeps running. I had the codes red and I believe it was C0302 C0303 C0304, saying that cylinders 2-4 were misfiring.
I replaced the spark plugs which didn't fix the problem, although cylinder 4 did have a small amount of oil above the spark plug and a little bit more below the spark plug, I am not sure if that means anything useful or not. I don't have a way to check the coils directly but I swapped coil 2 with coil 1 and checked the codes again and it was still cylinders 2-4 misfiring, so I would imagine that means the coil isn't the problem. I then tried spraying WD-40 around the vacuum tubes, and if the intake manifold is on the back of the engine I tried spraying it around that gasket as well, but I didn't notice a change in the idle speed.
At this point I am not entirely sure how to proceed, from what I have read the issue causing a misfire would be either there isn't a spark, which seems unlikely at this point, or the mixture of fuel to air is wrong. That is the part I am unsure of how to diagnose/
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I recently did a coil pack swap to determine if that was the cause for a cylinder 1 misfire. Left to right on my 2009 se tiguan, I changed 1 to 2, 2 to 1, 3 to 4 and 4 to 3. I recently ran into the cylinder misfire again, this time on cylinder 4. The problem is, I do not know which coil fires which cylinder. I've looked around quite a bit and can't seem to find it.
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My 09 Forester continues to skip although I have changed spark plugs and wires. Always reads misfire on 03 and 04.
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2014 ecoboost Supercrew 4x4 20k miles
It happened at the most inopportune time. I was in the left lane of a two lane road passing a slow truck on a somewhat busy road and it happened. Shudder, loss of power, check engine light on, limp mode. I was next to the cab of the truck when it happened and had to slow and get behind him to pull over and shut it down.
Potentially a dangerous situation.
I rarely step on it, but when I do, I expect it to work.
I baby this truck, almost 18 mpg lifetime average for the 20k miles on this truck.
I took it directly to the dealer to get checked out.
Codes P0305 and P0306.
Checked for carbon tracking on plugs, none found.
Performed a power balance and coil stress test, no problem found.
Removed CAC deflector for inspection, no issues found.
Updated PCM to latest calibration.
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So when I bought the car, it had a check engine light. I had it checked it said cylinder 5 misfire. I assumed it was the glow plug so I bought it and replaced the glow plugs myself. Check engine light went away for about a day then came back on. Got it checked again and still said cylinder 5 misfire. This is my first diesel and I'm clueless as to what's wrong.
2001 7.3 Limited with 232k miles Bergen County NJ.
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I have a 2011 F150 FX4 Ecoboost w/ 37K. I recently had to have the master cylinder replaced along w/ all my brake pads because it was not disengaging the calipers properly, so all of my pads were prematurely worn and cracked. I was wondering, it seems like this shouldn't happen on a truck this "young".
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2009 corolla 1.8l 155,000 miles. Replaced iridium spark plugs at 100,000
I got a CEL few weeks ago, P0301 Toyota - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
Car has been running bad for about 2 weeks now, excise noise on the highway, especially up hills.
Yesterday, I took a look, replaced the spark plug in cylinder 1, same results. Checked the coils using one of those flashing tools, all 4 flashed quickly, with no breaks in flashing. put it all back together, cleared the code, went home.
Took it out for a drive today, and it started running way worse. Checked the CEL, and now I have both P0301 and P0303 Misfire on cylinder 1 and 3. Barely made it home, ran VERY VERY bad.
Got home, and made a video of it. It just kept dying. Check it out here. [URL] .....
Also, when it does run, it almost sounds like I can hear excess air, its hard to hear in video, but doesn't sound right. Maybe air leak? How do I check?
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I have a 2009 Corolla S 1.8 with a manual transmission and 30,000 miles. About a month ago the check engine light came on throwing a PO302 code (cylinder 2 misfire detected). I reset the check engine light and drove it about a week before the check engine light reappeared again with the PO302 code. I swapped the spark plugs on cylinders 2 and 3 and reset the check engine light, the PO302 soon reappeared. I swapped the coils on cylinders 2 and 4, and reset the check engine light, the PO302 soon reappeared. I swapped the fuel injectors on cylinders 2 and 3, and reset the check engine light, the PO302 soon reappeared.
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Start from the beginning 2011 screw 4X4 ecoboost 46,000 miles, under wide open throttle and over 3,500 rpm I'm getting a misfire, diagnosis "I usually chicken out when I hit 80+ in 3rd". Misfire occurs in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd don't have enough road to try a higher speed or gear.
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Ok so I have the 2009 f150 4.6l 2wd. Have random misfire codes. Horrid idle. I replaced all of the spark plugs, coil packs, and even the injectors on 1/3/4. Still codes nothing is better. I'm thinking maybe an intake manifold leak,? I see no real signs but I do hear that little pop pop pop. Now I have a gasket kit for it but I see you can order complete manifold kits with thermostat and gaskets on amazon for like 60 bucks more. The issue is I see none that fit my truck. Is it the same as the mustang? Hate to blow more cash as its adding up.
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Was driving to Airport yesterday and out of nowhere got the flashing check engine and shudder/limp mode while trying to merge/accelerate onto the onramp (had to gun it to go around someone who decided to stop on the onramp for no reason). Let off the gas and the blinking went away. Upon leaving the airport I was accelerating again at highway speed to pass and got the blinking light and then a solid CEL. Found my way to a Autozone and got the code read. P0301 Cylinder#1 Misfire. Was suggested to change COP and plug.
Changed COP on the spot and had to drive it home to my tools to install plug. Thought maybe that since the CEL was still on solid after changing that the code needed to be cleared for the PCM to function normally again. Still have shudder when accelerating hard, so thought it might have been injectors so got cleaning service done at Goodyear. Still have the issue. Disconnected battery and performed IDLE relearn just now and it still is shuddering upon hard acceleration. Stumbled across TSB 12-6-4 which speaks to my symptoms.......I do not have the plate which in turn would imply I do not have the PCM update it references.
I have not noticed a misfire nor had an acceleration issue before so this was a surprise to come out of nowhere. I'm going to be calling my dealership in the morning.
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A close friend of mine just traded in his '04 Tacoma with ~240k miles on a 2011 F-150 EcoBoost XLT Screw 6.5' bed w/ 3.73's. Truck has ~75k miles He went the EB route after I was having the tick/tap issue with my 5.0 (yes... a 5.0 guy talked someone into the EB ). Actually was my first time in an EcoBoost truck and MAN is that thing quick, especially with the 3.73s.
Truck is very clean inside and out and was well cared for. He did throw a blinking CEL light (assume misfire) after a rainy highway trip, having to tip into the throttle to pass someone. I had already mentioned that might happen so he knew to expect it.
We are planning to do anything "non invasive" to prevent the issue (e.g. no IC drilling). We plan to swap out plugs and boots. Looks like plugs should be Motorcraft SP534 gapped to .030 and boots are Motorcraft WR6135.
What are the torque spec for the EB plugs? For my 5.0, spec is 124 in-lb. Looking like 133 in-lb from a couple of sources. Is there anything else we should be doing to prevent a misfire CEL in the future? He doesn't baby the thing and the CEL only happened the one time so far.
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My 2010 F-150 5.4 L has developed a misfire. I don't have the codes right now but can get them. Replaced all plugs and 3 of the 8 cops. Misfires right after startup but as it warms up tends to smooth out. When it is acting up it almost stalls out at stops. Where to next?
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OK, got a check engine light today when I fired up the Ranger. Like I posted previously it is running kind of rough so guess I know why now.
Took it down and got the codes read it have a miss fire on cylinder 5. Picked up some plugs and wires, got to get those E3's out of there, but kind of think that's really not going to fix the problem. So that probably leaves the coil pack or injectors.
So what's the consensus on the best coils to use? Also, being an 18 wheeler for more years than I care to remember, I've learned swapping just 1 injector is never the way to go. So whats the best type of injectors to get and where the best place to get them should it come to that?
Oh, it's a 2000 3.0L Flex fuel 5 speed.
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