Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 5.4 Rough At Low RPM With Load
Jul 17, 2013
The other day I was backing our TT up the driveway. The engine sounded almost like a diesel, and was running rough.
Our driveway is not flat, but it is darn close. The TT is a small lightweight one, so I was not pushing a lot of weight either.
My truck has also done this while just backing up the driveway to park in the garage.
If I rev it up it smooths out, but then may drop back down to run rough again or smooth out. Totally unpredictable.
No codes are thrown. Is this more of the crappy cam phaser junk?
I run Motorcraft Oil/Oil filters and change at the recommended intervals.
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had enough time invested in repairs and so forth, to believe I recognize a Heat Shield's rattle, when I hear it.
At least that's what I THINK I hear. Under load (up hills or when the torque increases) I hear a sympathetic rattle (or buzzing) coming from somewhere underneath.
My guess: one of the Heat Shields has a few tack welds that have popped on my 2009 F-150, and buzz (heat shield against the Catalytic body or whatever) when the sympathetic vibration hits a certain level. All I really have to do is find it, to affirm what I believe. Fixing it............well...........that's another matter. I suppose some garage somewhere will tell me that I should replace the component that has the Heat Shield attached to it, but...........I'd rather re-tack the Heat Shield or encourage that.
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I have developed a noise in my front end. Sounds like someone shaking a handful of loose change or like bearings without lube. Occurs only while under load. As soon as I roll into or out of the throttle the noise comes or goes. Revving the engine in park or powerbraking does not reproduce the noise. Also I put the truck in 4x4 and the scratching noise goes away but I get a big shake and a clunk every so often especially under throttle. I'm thinking CV joints but that doesn't quite make sense. I've got 57k miles on it now with about 54k on a 2.5" level and 35" toyos. Not sure if this would normally be covered under the powertrain warranty, but with the lift and tires I doubt it so it looks like I'll be tackling this one on my own, hence the post. Any tips on Where to start on a 04-08?
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2012 F150, 5.0
Quiet at idle, makes a crinkly, scratching noise under load, becomes almost a rattle or sounds like something is dragging (there isn't anything dragging). I can rev the engine in P and do not get the noise, only when in gear and moving. Quiet when cruising, noise comes on when accelerating. Did not notice the last time I drove it, it sat for a couple of days, then noticed it the next time I drove (yesterday). Took it around the block this morning to see if it was still making the noise, it is.
Obviously, it needs to go to the dealer, but want some info if it's harmful to drive it there, or if I should have it towed.
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For the last few months my truck shifts rough between 2e and 3e gear. However it only does this first thing in the morning, when I leave the house I speed up until the end of the street, then when I let go of the gas it'll rev up a bit and shift from 2e to 3e while making a big clunking noise which I can definitely feel ...
It does it sometimes very rough and sometimes just a little bit. I used to not worry about it but i'm starting to wonder if something is wrong with my trans. Could it have something to do with the slip yoke?
Truck: f150 2009 xlt 4x4 supercab 6,5' box.....
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2010 F150 4.6L 2V, 50k miles. Have recently developed an issue with an extremely rough idle with the AC on and trans in Drive. If in park, the idle is high enough that it is much less noticeable. I have cleaned my throttle body, and MAF sensor ? After this , I disconnected battery for about 30mins and let the computer reset. After a long drive today, it is still happening. This engine has the servo controlled throttle body, and therefore no IAC valve that I can identify. I would assume that the idle increase necessary for the AC to be on would come from the servo controlled throttle body itself with no need for an external IAC. The idle in Drive with the AC on will drop to 500 RPM or less and it is very rough. Is there a procedure for a recalibration of the servo throttle body that I could try ?
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I have a 2013 with the 3.7 in it with 24,000 miles on it. I bought the truck used with 8,000 on it was a pre-Owned certified and it already had a k&n air intake which I know it's not needed and I would much rather have the factory intake instead.. 7 months ago I took it to the dealer because I noticed at stop lights it idled rough sometimes almost feeling like it was going to stall out so I took it in and they said that the motor was getting to much air and causing it to run like it was and they said the cooler weather was making it worse and said it should get better when it warms up and they said it wouldn't hurt anything... Well I live in Florida and it's been in the 90s and it still idles like crap you can feel the vibration through the truck...
And it's so aggravating and annoying and I wish I had a stock intake that I could install on the truck to see if it fixes the problem but I don't and I've researched the problem and have seen people with the same issues without the k&n air intake and I've also been told that the stock air intake gives the motor just as much air as the k&n so with that being said did the dealer take the easy way out and blame the intake or should they be responsible for installing the factory intake back on since they made it a certified pre-owned with the k&n on the truck? It's been frustrating because I don't know a whole lot about gas motors.. And I'd like to get the problem fixed while I still have warranty ..
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I've had this 2012 for several months now but have never really romped on the throttle until yesterday's road trip (not a lead foot driver).
I was driving on the highway at about 55 when I needed to pass so I floored the throttle and - the truck bucked like a wild horse and the power dropped to a low acceleration. Once I backed off the throttle to about half-way the engine took off like "normal".
These symptoms were repeatable throughout my entire 500 mile trip. Is this a known issue with the EB?
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My truck has a similar rough idle and I decided to investigate. What my plug gap was supposed to be as I didn't have access to my owners manual at the time. The specs I was given (.041-.047) is what I followed and recapped my plugs .045. The idle improved a great deal.
Now I was wondering and finally got around to checking my owners manual after I read somewhere that the gap for the 5.0 changed between 12 and 13 model years. What I found in my owners manual is that the gap I'm supposed to have is from .049-.053. My plugs were out anyway at .057. I will leave them be at .045 but am wondering why the change from .041-.047 on the 2011 model years to .049-.053 on the 2012+ model years? I assume the engine hasn't changed, so am curious of the thought process.
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2013 3.5 Ecoboost. Starting the truck first thing in the morning, it idles very rough for about 30 seconds and then smoothes out. If I drop it into gear it stays rough as I back out of the driveway. Once underway it runs fine and otherwise runs/idles very smooth for the rest of the day. Doesn't appear to have any other symptoms of spark plugs/boots misfire so I'm thinking it might be something else?
On my old 02 F150 with the 5.4 this usually happened when the Idle air control (IAC) would get plugged up with carbon. I'd clean it and the idle would smooth out. This truck doesn't appear to have one.
Spark plugs are on my list for the near future. 47k on the truck so they are almost geting due. Trying to get my superduty sold before I spend a lot of time on this truck.
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I've only had my '13 STX with the 5.0 for a little over a month now, but it seems like the past few days, something's caught my attention. As soon as I start my truck when cold, the idling engine seems to have more vibration than normal, which is to say I can notice a distinct vibration in the cab. It only does this for about 10-15 seconds, and then the vibration goes away when it idles down. The truck still runs and drives fine, and I only notice this when I start the truck without it already being warmed up. I don't recall noticing this the first few weeks I owned the truck, but I also wonder if I'm over-analyzing matters as well.
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The truck always ran perfect till two days ago. went to start it in the middle of the day , it would barely start, when it did it was missing bad. then seemed to clear up a little after about 30 seconds but still missing. they thought they got some bad fuel. so they dropped the tank cleaned it all out and got new fuel, no change.
Him and a so called mechanic "kid from fire stone" played around switching coil packs around from the injectors with no change. He tells me that the two front cylinders , one on each side are not firing. that those two spark plugs are coming out fuel soaked after running the truck. He thinks it dropped a lifter or push rod popped out of place.
I took my A/E over and came up with codes p0106 - map sensor, and p0135 - 02 sensor. i cleared them and started the truck, shut it back off ran codes again. He also said they pulled the 02 sensor and it still ran the same.
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I just bought a new 2010 supercrew 4x4 lariat. I have 2000 mles on it. vehicle is equipped with 20" wheels with scorpion tires. Problem is that ride is very hard plus there is really annoying low level vibration that seems to be related to drivetrain - this vibration is most noticable on smooth roads. i have owned 99, 03, 05, and 08 4x4 lariat supercrews and this is by far the worst riding truck. i put a lot of miles on my trucks and this one is not in the least enjoyable to drive.
I took it back to ford dealership and they just said that these new bodies are 'stiffer' and transmit more vibration and that new 6 speed transmission is not as smooth. I reduced tire pressure from 40psi (as delivered) to 35psi with no difference. I don't buy it - I believe that something is wrong that can be fixed - but not sure where to look. Other than this problem i really like the truck!
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Ok so I have the 2009 f150 4.6l 2wd. Have random misfire codes. Horrid idle. I replaced all of the spark plugs, coil packs, and even the injectors on 1/3/4. Still codes nothing is better. I'm thinking maybe an intake manifold leak,? I see no real signs but I do hear that little pop pop pop. Now I have a gasket kit for it but I see you can order complete manifold kits with thermostat and gaskets on amazon for like 60 bucks more. The issue is I see none that fit my truck. Is it the same as the mustang? Hate to blow more cash as its adding up.
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I have less than 1000km on my new 2014 XTR SC. I had an AS 2.5/1.5" kit installed and a wheel alignment. There is a dull clunk in the rear when driving slowly over rough terrain(dirt roads n potholes). It happens occasionally when taking turns at lower speeds too. A friend who is a mechanic installed the kit and its the 4th kit he has installed for me. Never an issue.
The truck had to go to the dealer to have the remote start installed and they investigated the clunk and tightened up some nuts and bolts and its still there. They blamed the leveling kit and said its normal sometimes. This is definitely not normal! I've searched and can't find anything.
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2012 F-150 5.0 Rough Idle Upon Start up - YouTube
Whenever I first start my 2012 F-150 with the 5.0, it idles rough and if I step on the gas it acts like either an injector is cutting in and out or it's missing. It doesn't really seem like a miss though, more like an injector/fuel issue. What it could be. If I let it sit and idle it won't go away unless I step on the gas and get it > 2500rpm or so.
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I have a 2011 XLT 5.0 V8 with 133,260 miles. I have extended warranty for the next 12,000 miles...which is great because I drive about 400 miles a month... Anyhow it runs great but for one small issue (hopefully) that has been intermittent.
She likes to idle slightly rough in drive at a stop or very low speed, and in reverse at slow speed. If I don't maintain the RPM it will stall and the low oil pressure light will come on, which I imagine comes on because of the sudden stall.
I first noticed this while backing into my garage in the driveway, It would fluctuate in RPMs and if I didn't maintain the gas it would shut off. I took it to the dealer and all they were able to tell me was the Tranny fluid was low and it would cause it to shut off at incline because a sensor isn't detecting fluid in the tranny. I thought this was weird but being as I have never owned an F150, I didn't know better.
It was fine for a little over a month and it started doing it again at stop lights and backing into my driveway. It has become frequent but there is no issue driving at speed and on the freeway. There is no stuttering or shaking and if it weren't for the fluctuating RPM at a stop and the stalling, it would be hard to tell if there was an issue.
All I can note is that there is a clicking sound under the hood, if I remember correctly the last time this happened I was at a 1/4 tank of fuel like I am now, I also feel like it may be a throttle body issue, or some sort of air sensor, I plan on taking it to the dealer but I figure I would get a more informed answer on the forums.
I also hear this is a common issue with the 5.0s... I purchased the truck in December and since then I have only put 250 miles on it.
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2010 F150 ... So I have the tick noise at rpm's 800-1000 at drive through, stops, etc. So I did research on it a few months ago and saw that it might be VCT's but should be able to drive. so I drove it waiting to save money and have it go to a shop. well this past weekend while coming home from work my oil light came on the pressure dropped to zero, I was on the highway so I drove about another mile to get off highway and once I got off my truck died. I had it towed to my house and I thought I blew my motor. So I started doing research here and found that the VCT's AND cam Phaser could be bad. so I replaced my VCT on driver side put it all back together it started and loud knock was gone. then after 5 mins it was back very loud knock!
So I shut it down and took apart the passenger side once I got the valve cover off I found the problem.... The bolt that holds the cam phaser in place snapped off and was riding along the camshaft. So I took that out and extracted remaining part of bolt. inspected my camshaft and it was really messed up. so I bought new Phaser and Camshaft. the camshaft just came in today and I am trying to put it back in. but the hole for the pin in the phaser doesn't line up and I cant spin the shaft to make it line up. should I spin the cam phaser? I marked the chain and the phaser is where it should be on chain, but with that bolt snapping off could that have thrown the timing off so my mark is no good? when I lay the camshaft in place it sits perfect and if I just move the phase over 2-3 links it will all fit together. Should I do that?
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2011 Scab truck when driving over rough stuff drivers side door sounds like its cracked open when its not...never liked clamshell doors wished they would have went with mini doors like Dodge....
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My daughter has a 2010 F150 with 5.4, when pulling her horse trailer or extended idling her truck starts running rough, so far her husband has changed the fuel pump and 2 coil packs, no luck.
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I have an 05 F150 with the 3v 5.4 with 170k on it. Last fall we changed the timing chains, cam phasers (aftermarket), plugs, coils (OEM), VVT solenoids (OEM), Cam Position sensors (OEM) and swapped in a GT500 oil pump. Recently under moderate load (fairly heavy acceleration onto the freeway, pulling a large camper) I get a pretty rough misfire. Tonight I pulled the codes and it was Cylinder 5 misfire. In the past I have also had Bank 2 Over-Retarded code. What are the next things to verify and check? I plan to clean the throttle body and change fuel filter but I'm not sure either of those would cause the misfire code?
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