Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2013 - Transmission Not Shifting Properly?
Sep 9, 2017
I have a 2013 F-150 Lariat 5.0 L, 6 speed auto transmission crew cab truck with 44,000 miles on it. Recently I have experienced problems with the transmission not shifting properly. Three times when I have started out of my driveway, it has shifted into 2nd gear while I am going only 2-3 mph up my driveway which is about a 10-12 degree incline. It stays in 2nd gear even if I stop. When I pull out onto the highway, it shifted normally into the remaining gears. Then, the other night as I was returning home, while traveling up the road, it shifted into 5th gear and stayed there even when it needed to downshift. A wrench i-con appeared on my screen, my odometer showed dash lines instead of mileage and my seatbelt i-con appeared. When I got home, I shut the truck off and restarted it and everything was normal again. I have driven the truck a couple more times with no issues. The transmission shifts normally. Could a sensor be going bad ?
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My son has a 2013 Fx4 crew cab 4X4 ecoboost with 8500 miles. He says in the morning for the first couple of miles while accelerating gradually the trucks shudders when shifting gears. After a few miles it goes away. Dealer says they can't do anything endless he can duplicate the condition. He went out of town for a few days and left me the truck so I'll drive it in the morning and see what it does.
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I recently purchased a '13 FX4, i love the truck, the Ecoboost power is incrediable. Recently while passing someone it made a horrible grinding sound, the dealer advised that it was known turbo issue that should have been corrected before we took delivery of the truck. When we took it in the dealer called and said they have Ford corporate involed because when the truck reaches WFO the four wheel drive tries to engage. Said it might be soem sort of vacuum issue.
Specs : 2013 Ecoboost Screw FX4 short bed. No mods, 6500 miles.
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Overall I love my 2013 F150 and it's been great. I noticed my truck's transmission has been slightly clunking at 10 to 30mph. Meaning, driving in rush hour traffic... slow down, speed up, slow down speed up, etc. I have NOT experienced the hesitation, shudder or shaking. Anyway I took it into the dealership for service.
The dealer applied a transmission Technical service bulletin. So I'm reading the dealer's service dept. paperwork and it says 'Applied TSB to the PCM/TCM.' So I ask the 'kid' behind the service counter specifically what that means and he tells me that they applied a software update to the 'power train control module and transmission control module'. These modules are learning modules and I should drive the truck another 500 to 750 miles before I return for transmission service?
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In my 2011 F-250, 6.7, auto....it seems that at certain times went the tranny shifts from 2nd to 3rd and I pause with acceleration, for some reason the tranny seems to go into a slip mode and then slams into 3rd. Now I read about 8 months ago that there was a computer upgrade via Ford. Which they did when I was having some work done on the truck at the dealership.
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I have notice maybe a dozen times in the last few weeks that my 2013 5.0 Screw downshifts at odd times. It usually occurs while coasting around 35-40 mph (in 4th gear and downshifts to 2nd gear) or around 50 mph (in 5th gear and downshifts to 3rd gear). Obviously when this occurs, the rpms jump and when I get into the gas, the truck takes a few seconds to accelerate because it first must shift into the next higher gear. What is causing this?
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I recently purchased a used 2001 E350 with a 7.3L and the transmission is not shifting properly. It will go into Reverse no problem, put it in "D" and it starts in high gear and will not shift out. If I manually shift from 1 to 2 to "D" it works fine and will even go into OD. It will not down shift on its own either. What should I do to fix this issue?
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I have a 2007 Camry V6 XLE with a rebuilt transmission. Since the rebuild I have had an intermittent problem with the transmission not shifting into gear properly from park. When shifting from park into drive, sometimes the transmission will pause, leaving the vehicle in neutral, then slamming into drive.
The transmission was replaced in April of 09 with a leaking transmission seal. Since this time I have has this problem but have not been able to get it to be reproduced for Toyota to observe.
Purchased: February '08 (ish)- New
First Transmission Replacement- April '09- 35980 Miles
Transmission Repair- Internal Temp Sensor/leaking o-ring/Transmission Flush- 9/13/11- 101k miles
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Just got my Lariat dream truck yesterday and filled it up today... The gauge is only reading 3/4 of a tank and 424 MTE. I saw a thread about this but it didn't have a definitive answer to the problem with that truck. I don't want to fill it to the point of overflow to check it, when it stops at the pump I stop pumping gas.
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Grand am is a 4cly 4speed trans. My daughter is off to school. She called and told me her speed odometer is not working. She also mentioned that it is not shifting properly if at all. Is the speed odometer operated by cable? Would the two be related to the transmission going bad?
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I have a 94 Camry 2.2. When I am driving 45 MPH the transmissions acts like it is shifting into N or OD and then the RPMS fluctuate between idle and 1500 or so. Then when I it will shift hard because the car has decelerated. If I stay in the throttle during this it just jerks or lunges.
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Took my car in for oil/filter change and in some odd circumstance, the young mechanic managed to drain 1 liter of transmission oil out of my car (which I didn't know at the time). After driving for 10 minutes (~5 km), I noticed my reverse gear wasn't shifting properly. After ~30 minutes of driving, my car was smoking from the exhaust pipe (turns out he had overfilled my engine oil too!!). Took the car back in to complain the mechanic supervisor claims my transmission is still fine and all I need to do is refill the lost fluid. Another independent mechanic later tells me my transmission line is likely fried if I had experienced what I did, and those guys should be responsible to replace everything. Since fluids have been topped up, I have no proof of who is right. So my question is, if I only drove for maximum 50 km after my transmission fluid was drained and engine oil overfilled, would that be enough to cause serious damage to the car?
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The car on cruise control sometimes randomly looses speed & downshifts to 3 and raise rpms quickly to gain the set cruise control speed again."
Vehicle Background: bought it from the original owner, the fuel gauge showed empty on a full tank of gas and I passed on the car, owner called a week later and said they installed a used PCM and everything now works, and it did, I bought it since it was a really clean car.
After driving on highway with cruise control set it would randomly loose power and downshift and then regain speed from being set on cruise control, mostly uphills and downhills but also straights sometimes and it would loose 7-8 mphs not the 1-3 mph loss that is typical of some other cars on cruise.
Engine has been rebuilt to success, other then this issue, the car drives like a dream and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Plenty of power compared to before the rebuild as well.
I learned from a DIY oil consumption fix on a 98 corolla that removing throttle body and cleaning it and the IACV, makes the vehicle idle within stock spec, really quiet and also improves the throttle response, I attempt this on the GT-S.
So I open up the airbox to make room to clean my throttle body and the 2 nuts were fairly loose, but the 2 bottom bolts were completely out that attach the throttle body to the intake manifold and only holding their place because of the tight fit in that area from all the hoses. This wasn't even touched during the engine rebuild.
I remove everything, looks dirty as [censored] and the intake has some oil in it, which I use brake parts cleaner to dry and use air to blow off and only got to remove maybe 30% of it from the inside of the intake. I then also remove the IACV to find it REALLY dirty like all the ones I had open so far and I go to town and cleaner both that and throttle body and replace both the gaskets as well.
Upon completion the vehicle's throttle response becomes AMAZING compared to before and it seem like a proper GT-S rather then a slow car which before had a slower acceleration then my 01 GT. I drive the same route home of 25 miles, the car NEVER once down shifts and has plenty of power and I'm HAPPY!
Well guess what, the issue is back now, I open the air box and both the nuts and the bolts seems firmly tight. I loosen everything up to still see the oil in the intake(though I only got to remove/dry30% the first time), brand new OEM PCV valve in the car 5k ago and I followed the PCV Valve pipe to the intake and it was dry from the inside as well.
when the vehicle is driven around and it returns to idle, it seems to hesitate(I think not 100% since it could be the engine just slowing down didn't do it before the throttle body cleaning though) for less then a second when going back to idle speed, it idles perfectly at around 750 rpms though. Questions:
1. What could be causing the oil in the intake? is it just the old oil what has been in the intake since before I bought it? The car doesn't burn any oil in the last 5k since the engine rebuild.
2. Could it be the PCM/VCM is causing the random power loss with cruise control on? which was a problem that was so called fixed using used parts but all the other automatic functions work perfectly.
3. Could it be the Cruise Control it self, apparently I can snag one from a local pick n pull for like 8 bucks (I think, listed on website)
4. Could it be this issue listed in this link? [URL] ..... , bad throttle position sensor? could it be that I cleaned the idle air control valve too roughly to get that slight hesitation when returning to idle?
5. Could it be the Throttle body itself in the GT-S? Did I clean it too aggressively, and ruined the round opening, which is causing the random loss of power? I had my cuzin do the throttle body removal and cleaning DIY step by step on our 99 corolla and he used a gasket remover (attached to a power tool) to clean up the dirt/oil build up inside the round opening and it started to give him jerks driving at highway speeds, constantly...We used the 98 corolla's gently cleaned throttle body in the 99 corolla and immediately issue solved. The proper working throttle body in the 98 corolla is a used replacement one as I aggressively cleaned the round opening in the original one and had hesitation issues as well.
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I have only had my truck a few days and have a problem with the remote start.
It worked great for the first few days, but now this.
This morning i was in the house and tried to remote start. Lock, then the 2x button 2 times. truck beeped at me. So i did it again and again. Nothing but the truck honking at me. So i tried, unlock, lock 2x. Still honked at me.
THen i went out in the cold 5 ft from the truck and it did the same thing. so i climbed in started the truck manually, then shut it off , got out locked the doors. Then i did the lock, 2x two times and the truck fired up.
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Been having an issue lately with the AC system on my 2010 4.6L F150. The AC system is not working properly and is only blowing air the same temp as outside. In other words, if its 60 degrees in the morning the AC will blow cool, but later in the day its blowing warm. Pushes air no problem, but living in Florida, it's mainly warm air. Compressor clutch is kicking on and off fairly rapidly when on max AC setting (5-10 seconds on, then 5-10 seconds off). Hooked up gauge to low pressure side and the readings were 60psi WITH compressor on, then fell to 30psi when the compressor turns off. Where to start? Haven't done too many AC fixes before. Potentially a bad compressor? Overcharged lines?
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I have a 2011 f150 xl with the basic climate system. I'm having a couple issues with my hvac system. Initially when I took over payments on this truck I was getting a little popping noise under the dash that would go away after a couple pops. I took the bezel off to look at the radio and how it was mounted for a separate issue when I put everything back together I started the truck and now that popping is constant (it is the blend motor actuator, I've already determine that and have a new one coming) the other issue I got is that now the ac will only blow through defrost no matter what button I push. When I start up it will blow out the defrost like the flap is in default then it will blow out of the dash for a few seconds and then go back to blowing out of the defrost. I still have speed control tho I don't have 1 ,which I didn't have before that, and I haven't tried temp yet but I'm assuming it still works. Do the newer trucks still use vacuum to control the flaps or is it all electronic? I've noticed when I look at the actuators they all have a plug end instead of a vacuum port. And would the defrost vent issue be a dash control issue or would it be the actuator for that one a
s well?
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2010 fx4 duel temp controls...
My driver side works great (heat and AC). My passenger side does not cool or heat properly. Not sure about the back.
From what I have read this is most likely the upper door actuator...Which is what I was hoping because the lower one is such a nightmare. Am I on the right track here?
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I have a 2014 F150 ecoboost with a 3 inch lift and 33 inch tires. It seems that in every gear minus 6th that when I shift it shifts to normal RPMs then the truck sort of bogs down, losing 300 or so RPM, then keeps going like nothing ever happened. There are 58,XXX miles on the vehicle. I have taken it to Ford multiple times, now they are saying I probably need an aftermarket tuner to take care of the issue because of the bigger tires.
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For the last few months my truck shifts rough between 2e and 3e gear. However it only does this first thing in the morning, when I leave the house I speed up until the end of the street, then when I let go of the gas it'll rev up a bit and shift from 2e to 3e while making a big clunking noise which I can definitely feel ...
It does it sometimes very rough and sometimes just a little bit. I used to not worry about it but i'm starting to wonder if something is wrong with my trans. Could it have something to do with the slip yoke?
Truck: f150 2009 xlt 4x4 supercab 6,5' box.....
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Used to own a F250 so I am new to the F150. I am currently in a 2014 F150 fx4 with about 10k miles on it. I noticed when the truck is shifting into 3rd (normal acceleration)the rpms once in third remain around 1800 then drop to 1400ish after about 2 seconds or so while still in third (almost like its shifting again). What it is?
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I just picked up my 2011 FX4 Ecoboost with the 4.10 axle ratio. While in drive, the transmission will not shift into 6th gear until around 65mph. The rpms in 5th gear at this point are around 2300(ish). If driven with Tow/Haul mode on it will shift into 6th at 45mph and lock the converter. If traveling at a speed in drive (no T/H) where you would think it would be in 6th, lets say 50mph on flat ground, and you force the trans into 6th, either by using manual mode or T/H, and then return the transmission to normal drive mode it WILL hold 6th just fine with the converter locked and will even accelerate holding 6th.
If you accelerate more rapidly and the transmission downshifts, it will not return to 6th until forcing it to do so by one of the two ways above. I realize that the truck has adaptive learning strategies, but this doesn't seem right. It also has only 300 miles. Initially I had even thought that this might be some sort of break-in programming, but not anymore.
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