Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2013 - Reset Throttle Response
May 26, 2017
Resetting Throttle Response. I came across this video, bored and just playing around, and tried it on my 2013.......and it works! Turn the ignition key to the run position, then slowly press the accelerator pedal to the floor. Then let the pedal up fast, then turn the ignition off. Do this 3 times, and on the last time, also turn the ignition off. I was amazed that that the lagging pedal response was almost completely gone!
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Title says it all come to a stop, step on throttle nothing, let off and step on it again it goes, does some one have to be killed before Ford knows there's a problem, it's happened to me 3 or 4 times in the last month, dealer checked said there's no codes so nothing wrong. OK I forgot the good info 2014 eco screw 4X4.
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Experiencing sluggish throttle response on the EFI Ecoboost? I have had several incidents where I'm needing to change lanes fast and the response is a dead second or two before the motor catches up to the throttle position. Then, it rockets forward at full throttle to catch up. By that time it's too late to change lanes and I have to be on the brakes hard to keep from rear ending the guy in front of me. I'm coming from a carburetored Toyota Tacoma that was far more responsive (minus the power) then this truck. I never felt hesitant to jump on it and go. Now I feel like my life depends on waiting until I have all day to change lanes, make a left turn or pass a slow moving vehicle on a two lane road. Is this something the dealer can adjust?
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I recently purchased a '13 FX4, i love the truck, the Ecoboost power is incrediable. Recently while passing someone it made a horrible grinding sound, the dealer advised that it was known turbo issue that should have been corrected before we took delivery of the truck. When we took it in the dealer called and said they have Ford corporate involed because when the truck reaches WFO the four wheel drive tries to engage. Said it might be soem sort of vacuum issue.
Specs : 2013 Ecoboost Screw FX4 short bed. No mods, 6500 miles.
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I'm getting pretty significant throttle response delay in my 2013 Elantra w/ Tech. It's pretty egregious in stop-and-go traffic when I attempt to accelerate, wait a second before my car responds, and then get jerked forward, only to stop a second later.
I emailed Hyundai and was told to speak to the dealership. I called up the dealership and they had no idea what I was talking about. I emailed another local dealership, and they didn't get back to me. Pretty annoyed at this point.
I did a search on this forum and found some threads discussing resetting the throttle system by resetting the ECM. Wasn't too confident in doing that myself and I didn't want to mess up my car's computer system at all. I'd like the dealership to take care of this under warranty, but if they haven't heard anything about this, then I'm not sure how to proceed. What my next move should be?
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My wife got a 2014 Tiguan (R-Line) yesterday. Nice car but throttle response is slow.
Wondered to know about APR Stage 1 tune on a Tiguan.
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I have annoying problem with the car feeling flat while driving it braking into a corner then coming out of the corner I feel I get no response from the pedal unless I push it down further. While pushing down a little further it roars out of the corner. I have noticed it more now because of the icy roads when I have traction control turned off. Push pedal down slightly with no response, then push 1mm further and the tires spin slowly.
I performed my own test in neutral of the auto transmission. While idling at usual idle speed, push pedal slowly and stop, kept doing this a little further each time to see what the rpm was reading. Finally it went from Idle speed under 1000 rpm and shot up to over 3000 rpm? I tried this dozens of times and could not rev the engine to anything between idle speed and roughly 3 grand. Took to dealer "no codes" I believe this will affect fuel consumption.
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2010 corolla drove fine for a few hours after being rear ended, then has no throttle response. Will only go 20 MPH on flat ground. But, turn the car off for a few seconds and restart....and it has full throttle response which may continue for a few seconds after putting car in gear. Then it is back to no throttle response. Car is setting p0600 code. Traction control is off. VSC light is on. Looking for something knocked loose.
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Eco/Normal/Sport S/S+ Mode... the literature doesnt say much except it changes throttle response and power output. For the Sport modes it says that "The rear-wheel drive IS 350 F SPORT's Sport S+ mode also tightens the suspension..." Are the shocks somehow adjustable, or is this just marketing BS?
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I find it hard to smoothly accelerate from a stop with my V6 DSG. I have to be very careful how much pressure I apply to the gas to get a smooth take off...too easy to accelerate to fast or break the tires loose. Can this be reprogrammed?
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Started up today and no response from the A/C fan on any speed- dual climate control. Checked all fuses good. Electronic control panel shows normal with all the fan speeds, but no blower motor action.
Is it the motor or a resistor/controller? Thought with a bad resistor you would get the fan on at least in one speed.
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Started up today and no response from the A/C fan on any speed- dual climate control. Checked all fuses good. Electronic control panel shows normal with all the fan speeds, but no blower motor action. Is it the motor or a resistor/controller? Thought with a bad resistor you would get the fan on at least in one speed.
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After I change my oil, I need to reset back to "miles to empty" from "% left on oil" warning. 2009 F150, XLT Supercab. I do not know how to do this.
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I crashed my f-150 2010 and its all fixed but now I have to find the fuel pump reset which I can not find!!!
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I have a 2012 F150 XL. I don't have a message center, just a 2 line LED readout, and there is nothing in the owner's manual about resetting the "oil change required" message.
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This morning, my 2011 F150, told me that my rear driver side door was a jar on the center console. I opened and closed it several times using the inside handle and the outside handle. It affecting the battery since the interior lights stay on. Is there a way to reset / clean the sensor so that I don't have to take it into the Dealer?.. Their next appoint is mid next week.
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I have 2011 f150 5.0 with 38,000 miles and the throttle body seized up tight.
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I have a 2011 f150. I go to put it in reverse no problem after I'm done backing up and put it in drive. The truck does not go anywhere but it will race up to about 4000 rpm without even having my foot on the throttle. Put in park then back into drive same thing happens. Put it back into park turn the truck off start it again and no problems. It drives just fine. I've had it to the dealer they say it is not throwing any codes so there is nothing they can do about it.
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I just picked up my new 2011 F150 SCrew with Ecoboost on friday (pictures soon). I noticed after driving it a little, there is a noticeable burning smell...almost like an oil smell. It is even more noticeable after I had been driving with a little more throttle.. i.e. getting the turbos working a little. I attribute this to the normal coatings of oils on the parts but it still is a little concerning at times. I'm sure I'm worried about nothing and this is normal...
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I bought a 2009 f150 5.4 with 150000 miles on it. I have a slight hesitation from idle so I want to clean the throttle body. I found several for the older f150"s with the horizontal throttle body but this 2009 has a vertical mounted one. I change the air filter and cleaned the MAF but didn't change anything. My wife's ford 500 had this problem and cleaning the throttle body completely cured it.
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Having issues with the vacuum falling off to the hubs when driving and light throttle. I know makes no sense,but kept fighting this thing making vary harsh rubbing sound since I bought it used and I know its the little collar on the back side of hub that engages to hub to make the 4x4 connection but it looses vacuum when driving and very light throttle/load.
I verified using a vacuum gauge ran inside vehicle when driving. Checked all lines and hubs,everything good. Solenoid has vacuum when running but seems to quit when light load or throttle and as soon as vacuum falls off then the collar starts to engage and rubs but doesn't fully engage. I don't get it. Unless there's something on the computer side of it shutting off the solenoid or something.
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