Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2013 - Front Frame Bent - Replace Whole Frame?
Sep 9, 2014
Bought a 2013 FX4 two weeks ago to replace my 94 F150 and got to enjoy it for a whole 10 days before I got rear ended at a stop light. The car hit me doing between 30-40, fast enough to make her airbags go off, and it was hard enought to force the bed to hit the cab. Unfortunately, the damage is more than cosmetic body work. The bottom of the bed is pushed up under the bedliner and the frame is bent in front of where the leaf spring connects. My concern is that the adjuster will want to "fix" the frame and I will be stuck with a lifetime of alignment issues, suspension issues, etc. I know the rear of the frame is not as much an issue as if the front was bent, but I don't know how they could fix it without cutting it and welding in a new piece, and how can I know that the frame is true?
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Any DIY way to straighten a bent front frame horn? The wreck pushed the driver's side horn about an inch towards the passenger door. The bend is right at the cross member.
Using a Porta Power hydraulic jack to push one of these? Not sure how I'd keep it from just bending the opposite, but can prolly figure that out. Just don't know if those are strong enough. I see 4ton and 10 ten models.
Otherwise, are there any other hillbilly methods for pushing or pulling?
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I have just purchased a 2010 FX4 5.4l on 5/4 and just found a leak coming from above the passenger side frame horn. It looks like it may be from the condensor but im not 100 percent certain. It is an odorless oil not condensate. It is a slow drip that i found after running the truck for a short time. the puddle it left was about the size of a bottom of a drinking glass.
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I had an accident with my 2007 Hyundai Azera 3.8 Limited at the driver's side a couple of weeks ago. The frame bent a little bit from the left side. Took it to bodyshop/mechanic and was straightened back.
The mechanic advised me to change the CV axle on the left side due to the CV boot coming off the axle. We bought a used CV axle from the junkyard and everything was fine until 2 days later when I made a wide left turn and I heard a cracking noise. Immediately, I pulled over and AGAIN the CV Boot from the CV axle has popped out of the axle again and up until now when i drive I hear a cracking noise when turning to the left. Even without checking the car again.
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I have an 2012 isf with sikky headers and borla exhaust, and my left header hits the frame of my car when I'm taking off.
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I have a 2010 RX450h and live in Minnesota where it is hard to hand wash my car. The darn car washes tend to catch the front of my license plate frame and bend it and the license. I have tried several different plate frames and none worked. Minnesota plates are now the thin, non-stamped plates so they are very flimsy.
I even tried putting a plastic plate behind the license to make it more rigid but that failed too.
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I dropped the F250 (30k miles) off at the dealer yesterday- in the last several days I've noticed a small leak puddle under the front drivers side frame member. I asked the service writer if they had had many trucks in for the radiator leak and he said "no". He has heard the waste gate solenoid buzzing the last two times I've stopped in for routine service and had said they would fix it when I left it with them.
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What caused this. The attached pictures show what looks like melted plastic on the window frame to the right side rear passenger door. I noticed the damage after running errands one morning. What might have caused this? Any thing electrical inside the car or external?
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I have a 2013 Ford F150 XLT Supercrew with the 'jump' seat in the middle. When I fold down the center seat, I hit my elbow while driving and turning.
I'm contemplating removing the center jump seat and replacing it with a Ford center console. Is it just a matter of removing the center jump seat bolts, then bolt in the new center console?
I see on the Ford parts website a adobe center console : 2013 Ford F-150 Floor Console | FordParts.com
Of course, then what do I do with a center jump seat?
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I have a 2013 FX4 with the 3.5 twin turbo engine. How to remove the right side valve cover to replace the gasket? I have loosened the perimeter bolts and was able to get it to move slightly but nothing more. I also removed the spark plugs thinking that they might be holding the tubes which are connected to the valve cover by round seals. I have not removed the seals since I was concerned that I might damage them. Do they need to come off? If so how do I do it? It's amazing how complicated this job is! Short of calling the dealer service, I have just about exhausted all my usual tech resources.
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The radius arm bracket holes and the holes on the frame line up, but there is a gap between the bottom of the frame and the bracket. I am wondering what to do at this point.
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I have a 2000 ford ranger xlt the rear frame section is bad the section is factory rivited on just behind the cab will any other model ranger frame fit my truck if I remove the rivits and bolt the section back together.
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Just got bad news hours ago...frame not safe ?
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2002 F150 FX4 w/ 5.4 Just sprung a new oil leak somewhere and I can't tell where it's coming from. The oil is actually dripping off the frame on the passenger side. It looks like the leak is somewhere at the back of the engine on the passenger side above the bell housing. It's dripping on the frame and running down a little ways before dripping to the ground. I can't get a good visual without removing the inner fenders. It's a pretty good leak that just started yesterday. Not a drop before then. I just had the oil changed within the last couple of days if that works.
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The rear sub frame fell out of her 06 Escape Hybrid. She found the recall for the 01-04's, was the problem fixed in 2004, or are later models subject to the recall and repair also?
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I have a possible oil leak as the title said and it's a 5.4 triton. I believe I'm seeing oil under the frame on the passenger side. Where the leak is coming from and I know it's not a severe leak it's still concerning and what it could be. 2000 F150 Lariat 5.4 ....
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I've never used a rust converter, so I have no experience and wanted to hear from those who have. I've got some light rust on the frame rails and the hitch receiver. What product would you recommend, or do these products work well enough to consider? According to all of the websites, they all work miracles...
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My 02 F-250 (week end truck) has begun to start showing a lot more surface rust on frame and axles. It's about half rust and half black frame. Are there any products that I can spray or brush on that will convert and stop this. ?
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Patching cracks of the rear window frame? I am talking about the actual glass casing assembly and the cracks are viewable from inside the cab of the truck. I've found two small cracks and that is exactly where the water will stream in.
I was just about to pull the rear window out to replace the butyl seal when I pinpointed the cracks. So is it possible to use some RTV, form a gasket, or JB weld or something else to patch these cracks?
Are the sliding rear windows more prone to cracking? If so I'll probably replace the assembly with a solid rear window. Where I should purchase a replacement window?
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So today I was doing the 40K mile service on my 2013 Gen3. When I finished I noticed that the front jack point was kind of crushed looking. I don't think I did it this time, but I have no doubt that I'm the one that did it. The question I have is, why is that the recommended jacking point if it crushes like a beer can. I've always used a quality floor jack, so I don't understand. I'm attaching a pic. If there a better place to jack it up from?
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I took my 2003 4Runner to the dealer and they sent pictures to toyota. I asked that the customer service rep contact me next time he was in the area. Toyota replaced the frame with me paying a 2500.00 deductible. Now I still have the car and will wait for the recall/class action suit that someone will file to get reimbursed. I hear it was due to the frames being dipped in Alabama.
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