Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2013 - Flashing CEL / Limp Mode / Ecoboost At WOT
Aug 23, 2016
Was on the highway cruising along and punched it to pass a slower vehicle. As I've done many times before without issue. Got a flashing CEL and it went into what I assume is a type of limp mode. I reduced the throttle input to the point the CEL cleared and full power returned. I did not have to stop the truck and key-off etc. I also made no further attempts to see if it would do it again. What causes that? Kind of annoying to pull out to pass and you hit limp mode.
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I have a 2013 F150 with a 3.5 Ecoboost. I was pulling my 16' aluminum boat on a two lane road and pulled out to pass another truck. I stomped on the accelerator and the motor lost power. I limped back into my lane and noticed the engine light blinking. If I had to describe it, it seemed like the motor was running in some sort of "limp mode."
After about a minute or so, I let up on the accelerator and the light stopped blinking where the motor began to run normally. Although I only "stomped" on accelerator once since I had the issue, I haven't had the problem since. The truck has 44k on it..
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2013 ecoboost bought new. Every winter 3-5 times, typically when temps get low( Kansas City), and truck left outside without starting for 12+ hours. I will get to my truck and it won't even unlock with key fob. Put cables to it and within seconds the alarm is beeping and I move directly to ignition and it fires right up. Had battery tested just this week and again nothing is wrong with it. Has not been to dealship, cuz I just kept telling myself I must of been leaving something inside the truck on and that's why it won't start. But I am beyond that now and with how fast everything starts once I get cables on it, I feel the battery is not getting drained. So it has done it speractically for 4 winters, maybe once during summer months and just everything is dead when i get to truck. No lights no entry no dash.
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I've got a 2013 ecoboost with 31,000 mile on it. Generally it's been good but at 30,000 mile it started sounding like a diesel on cold starts. Usually after sitting overnight the first start rattles like a 6.0 liter diesel for about 3-8 seconds then it's quiet. It won't do it again all day usually. The dealer says there's no codes so everything it all good. It never did this until I hit 30,000 miles.
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Truck: 2009 F-150 Lariat SCrew 5.4 4x4 with 6.5" bed
For the last few years, I've had this intermittent problem where the service engine light (wrench icon) will pop on and the truck will go into limp home mode. While it's in this mode, all of the indicators on the dash freak out. Low fuel warning will come on, temperature warning, low battery voltage, etc. Turning the truck off and back on (sometimes a couple times) is enough to get it back to normal, albeit with a check engine light that needs to be cleared. It's happened infrequent enough that I've just been dealing with it. I got the codes a couple years back, but there wasn't much information available on what the potential causes might be. The Checker Auto parts database suggested one might be related to a wheel speed sensor.
Well, this afternoon it happened again, and I was near an O'Reilly, so I took it in to pull the codes. There were 9 total in the system; 5 of which were unique:
B0025
B00D5
U0073
U0100
U0253
They didn't have any information on what was causing them. What could be causing this. I'm getting sick of having to clear the check engine light and worry about the truck falling into limp home mode when I'm at intersections.
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2001 Ranger 3.0 liter has developed a transmission casualty. I was driving along at 30 mph and the transmission went into "limp' mode with O/D light flashing and truck will only barely creep along with high engine rpm. When I got the truck home I was able to retrieve a p0720, output shaft speed sensor signal fault. I had hoped that replacing the sensor would solve this casualty.
Of course this was not the case. I have read all the posts I can find for this particular fault and realize that I must electrically trace the continuity of this circuit and also ensure that it's not grounded. I have been unable to find the needed wiring diagrams or pin out information.
Before I have to try and blindly start pawing through the connectors I'm looking for the pinout for the PCM and perhaps the bulk connector above the engine between the PCM and the transmission wiring harness. I am also keen to hear of any diagnostic tips that I may have overlooked.
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F250 7.3L diesel started to flash OD light, goes into limp mode, code p1747. No other codes. Have had issues for a couple of years where the truck would not shift into gear for awhile; sometimes a couple of minutes till it would engage. Have done lots of diagnostics. Visual check harness. Have 12v on pins 1&12 on harness at transmission plug. Plug had some ATF visible, but cleaned it up and continuity good. (with 4" exhaust hard to get to connector).
Checked all solenoid wires with a DVM back to plug at PCM for continuity and shorts, all good. Pulled transmission pack and checked resistance on all solenoids except temp varistor all within specs. Removed Banks Trans Command and rewired tranny plug and pulled Ottomind chip from PCM. Still goes into limp mode and throws code. Did not see any bad solder joints or burns inside PCM by the way.
Seems like PCM right? But here is a complication to my issues. For over a year I have been having electrical issues like the radio not working and windows not working intermittently after starting up. After running for awhile or on restart would work fine. Sounds like the Instrument Cluster issues or relays.(?)
Will be pulling IC and checking for any bad solder joints. However, did not throw p1747 till just recently and now my radio has really gone wonky. It comes on when key is on automatically and then proceeds to cycle through settings; AM-FM-CD.
So questions are, "Is it possible that a bad Instrument Cluster can cause a p1747 code?" "Bad Ground to Tranny" "Can a bad PCM cause a electrical issue in IC??" "Are these 2 separate issues?"
2002 f250 7.3L, 4R100 automatic trans, ~180,000miles
Banks Stinger package, 4" exhaust, TransCommand, (now removed).
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Just set off on a day out, got about 3 miles and the cars gone into limp mode (running smoothly but no power) with the glow plug light flashing. I got back to the caravan so we weren't stuck at the side of the road and tried restarting it. It starts off for about a minute before coming back on. I've noticed that revving it in neutral the revs linger for a second our so after taking my foot off as if its not recognizing that the throttle position has changed.
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I just purchased a 2013 FX4 with a 3.5 Ecoboost and it seems to start strange compared to other vehicles I have owned. With this truck when you hit the key (warm or cold engine) it sounds like the engine turns over for maybe 1-2 seconds before firing where other vehicles I have owned pop right off starting almost instantly.
Is this typical of the Ecoboost motor? I asked the dealer I purchased it from (large used truck dealer, but not a ford shop) and they said that they all do that...seems odd.
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2014 ecoboost Supercrew 4x4 20k miles
It happened at the most inopportune time. I was in the left lane of a two lane road passing a slow truck on a somewhat busy road and it happened. Shudder, loss of power, check engine light on, limp mode. I was next to the cab of the truck when it happened and had to slow and get behind him to pull over and shut it down.
Potentially a dangerous situation.
I rarely step on it, but when I do, I expect it to work.
I baby this truck, almost 18 mpg lifetime average for the 20k miles on this truck.
I took it directly to the dealer to get checked out.
Codes P0305 and P0306.
Checked for carbon tracking on plugs, none found.
Performed a power balance and coil stress test, no problem found.
Removed CAC deflector for inspection, no issues found.
Updated PCM to latest calibration.
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I came across this on the Tube. I asked the one who put the video up about it and he said that Ford has not been able to diagnose the issue yet and that he was very disapointed.
I'm not putting this up as an ''anti Ecoboost'' thread, but more just to see if any of you Ecoboost owners out there have seen or heard of this issue?
F150 Ecoboost Reviews You Must See this to Believe it - YouTube....
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It's a balmy -11 c here, my remote start wouldn't work... I go outside and try to manually start the truck and it turns over for 5 or 6 seconds with ZERO catch.... Fuel tank is at 1/4.... Added some fuel just in case... Nothing.... 6700km and it's dead in the driveway.
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I just picked up my 2011 FX4 Ecoboost with the 4.10 axle ratio. While in drive, the transmission will not shift into 6th gear until around 65mph. The rpms in 5th gear at this point are around 2300(ish). If driven with Tow/Haul mode on it will shift into 6th at 45mph and lock the converter. If traveling at a speed in drive (no T/H) where you would think it would be in 6th, lets say 50mph on flat ground, and you force the trans into 6th, either by using manual mode or T/H, and then return the transmission to normal drive mode it WILL hold 6th just fine with the converter locked and will even accelerate holding 6th.
If you accelerate more rapidly and the transmission downshifts, it will not return to 6th until forcing it to do so by one of the two ways above. I realize that the truck has adaptive learning strategies, but this doesn't seem right. It also has only 300 miles. Initially I had even thought that this might be some sort of break-in programming, but not anymore.
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New to me 2012 Ecoboose Screw Fx4. CPO but the previous owner put a K&N intake and cat-back exhaust on it. Searched around but came up short...
When in cruise control the truck will vary RPM and seem to 'hunt'. For example: if 50mph = 1500rpm the truck will go down the road varying between 1300 and 1700 rpm continuously. Could the truck be in need of a tuner because of the parts?.
Maybe related: When first started in the morning if I pull out of the driveway and hold steady throttle to accelerate, the truck will do this as well, just surges.
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I have a 2012 EcoBoost with 10k miles on it. Got in a rear end / side collision and now the truck won't start. I have tried everything I can think of. The fuel pump sounds like it comes on and the dash display comes on just fine but it won't crank. Won't make any sound at all.
The battery is fully charged and all fuses have been double checked. I am willing to try just about anything right now.
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Towing my Jeep/ trailer today I was flagged to the side of the road and advised of a massive plume of smoke trailing me... As soon as I popped the hood, I was greeted with the unmistakable smell of burning oil and a smoke screen like something off James Bond. After the billowing smoke cleared, I was able to pull off the engine cover and found a massive puddle of oil along the passenger side intake manifold??? I cannot locate the source of the leak yet? The driver side is bone dry. One other odd thing, when the engine was running I pulled the oil fill cap and there was a significant vacuum - is that normal? I do have a UPR dual catch can with CSS if for some reason that makes a difference???
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I have a ecoboost with 80k on it. All of a sudden it started cutting out real bad while accelerating. If I punch the throttle it feels like the motor is trying to die. Could this be my fuel pump going out?
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Need excess to a wiring diagram schematic for a 2011 f150 ecoboost 4x4 as I need to check what powers up the dash on the 2011 ecoboost as well as other wiring, I have one that had damage on the front end with the battery exploding everywhere, the truck did run and drive and the only difference between than and now was that it was water washed under the hood to clean off the battery acid, it did run shortly after it was washed, but after repairs it will not start, as in not turn over the starter and not power up the dash, its as if there isn't any power coming up to the dash as the dash will not light up or power up the gauges when the key is turned on, or it's not recognizing the key. We took it to a ford dealer to scan it and the tech said it would not link to the OBD scanner and said to check for power at the computer and if there was power that it might be the PCM, we have put in a new PCM, no difference, changed out the BCM (fuse box on right kick panel), no difference, we took the under hood wiring out/untapped it all and checked for damage, no damage, still nothing...
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My 2012 ford F150 Eco boost 3.5 l stalls when I am accelerating. What could be the cause? I have replaced the, Spark plugs, coils, air filter, oil, and cleaned the injectors.
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Experiencing sluggish throttle response on the EFI Ecoboost? I have had several incidents where I'm needing to change lanes fast and the response is a dead second or two before the motor catches up to the throttle position. Then, it rockets forward at full throttle to catch up. By that time it's too late to change lanes and I have to be on the brakes hard to keep from rear ending the guy in front of me. I'm coming from a carburetored Toyota Tacoma that was far more responsive (minus the power) then this truck. I never felt hesitant to jump on it and go. Now I feel like my life depends on waiting until I have all day to change lanes, make a left turn or pass a slow moving vehicle on a two lane road. Is this something the dealer can adjust?
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Start from the beginning 2011 screw 4X4 ecoboost 46,000 miles, under wide open throttle and over 3,500 rpm I'm getting a misfire, diagnosis "I usually chicken out when I hit 80+ in 3rd". Misfire occurs in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd don't have enough road to try a higher speed or gear.
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