Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2013 FX4 - Ice Buildup In Front Wheel Wells
Mar 25, 2013
I just went to Steamboat this weekend which requires driving over two mountain passes in a snow storm...I only go if it is snowing. This was the first trip with my new 2013 FX4 and the front wheel wells filled up with so much ice that the wheels would rub after a bump in the road. The mountain roads do have lots of frost heaves so this would happen fairly often. The ice was all around the wheel well with a huge build up behind the wheel. It also covered the step rails. Would mud flaps do anything to preovent this build up? Or any other tricks?. Otherwise the truck did fine...
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I just completed a detailed cleaning of my SF last weekend and I noticed that every plastic screw and plastic nut inside the wheel wells were all loose. (Not the screws on the outside but inside above the tires.) I tightened them only finger tight.
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My 2004-V8 has developed some creaking sound that seems to come from both front wheel wells when going at low speeds. Going over bumps does not produce them but hard braking and corners tend to produce them. My suspicions are either brakes or steering. Had all the suspension bushings done about a year ago and the dealer did not tell me about worn steering parts. Steering tracks well and suspension is taught. Vagcom shows nothing as this most likely is completely mechanical or even structural.
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My 2013 Lariat has just over 7,000 miles on it now. If you brake lightly at 55-60 you get a brake shutter, enough to feel it in the seat but also can see the steering wheel shake too. if you brake a little harder you don't feel the shudder much. is it possible to warp rotors in 7000 miles? 3500 of that 7000 was put on driving to Texas and back.
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I have a 2013 Lariat 4x4 and was switching in and out of auto four wheel drive the other day. Now I have it in 2 wheel drive and there seems to be a funny vibration from the front wheels when I drive down the road.
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I'm looking to upgrade the front brakes on my F150. I'm looking at either EBC or Hawk for pads and rotors. What is everyone's thoughts on these brands?
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I'm new to the site and I've got a 2012 F-150 SuperCrew EcoBoost that has had the front wheel hubs replaced twice. Both hubs two winters ago and one hub last winter. I'm taking it in again tomorrow because the wheels are growling again when turning slightly at low speeds and sometimes without turning. I'm running in 2H, so the hubs should not be engaged. Previous years it was when running in 4H or 4A.
When I took it in, the service manager said it was common this time of year because of the temperature. Always seems to be cold, but not frigid, days here in SD. I asked why I should tolerate having hubs replaced every year, but he can't answer that.
I'm at 36,450 miles/29 months. I'm not beating on it or running in 4wd on dry pavement. Just normal highway miles. I should know more tomorrow after it comes out of the shop.
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Passenger side front wheel won't engage
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Just installed new actuator and wheel hub assembly on my 2009 f150,truck still had grinding noise in front passenger wheel , New solenoid and vacuum hose kit installed when test drove noise still there until you put the truck in 4 wheel drive it disappears . The noise returns as soon as you take it out of 4 wheel drive. Also mechanic said steering was tight,installed new shaft same thing, could this be the rack and pinion.
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I have noticed recently that I have a "rubbing" noise and vibration coming from the right front wheel on my FX4. It is most noticeable from 5-10 MPH, and more pronounced when turning right. it is not constant. It sounds almost like a brake pad rubbing on a badly warped, wet rotor. It goes away when I apply the brakes. I am thinking bearing or possible CV joint.
The dealer can't get it in until Tuesday, and they say I will have to pay the deductible on the ESP, even if it is related to the steering vibration they could not replicate or fix about a month ago. I am seriously considering going to another dealer for my service. Given, they did absorb the deductible last time, but they didn't fix the problem!
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Front wheel bearings making noise. Can I buy replacement bearings/races/seals, or must i buy a whole new hub front assembly?
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Bought a 2013 FX4 two weeks ago to replace my 94 F150 and got to enjoy it for a whole 10 days before I got rear ended at a stop light. The car hit me doing between 30-40, fast enough to make her airbags go off, and it was hard enought to force the bed to hit the cab. Unfortunately, the damage is more than cosmetic body work. The bottom of the bed is pushed up under the bedliner and the frame is bent in front of where the leaf spring connects. My concern is that the adjuster will want to "fix" the frame and I will be stuck with a lifetime of alignment issues, suspension issues, etc. I know the rear of the frame is not as much an issue as if the front was bent, but I don't know how they could fix it without cutting it and welding in a new piece, and how can I know that the frame is true?
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I just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
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My 2000 V10 Ex 4x4 (has 146,000 miles) with some rust on rockers and wheel wells runs pretty good. The exhaust needs some work. The transmission shifts pretty well I think, except sometimes from 1st to 2nd its a little jerky (like in a parking lot). I've put powerstop brakes on all four wheels, and have been maintaining it pretty well since I bought it almost two years ago.
Here's my issue. My 3rd son (out of 4) was diagnosed 2 years ago with ALL (Acute Lymphoblastic Leukemia). His End Of Treatment (EOT) date is July 8th 2018. This is relevant because to celebrate his EOT, we are planning on taking a 2 week road trip out west in our new to us hybrid travel trailer we just purchased this past February. We are taking the camper on a few weekend trips this summer and one week long trip to Michigan in July (we're from Ohio).
My concern is this: am I risking a ruined trip out west with such an old vehicle? I don't really trust it for such a long trip, I worry something would fail me and ruin a trip that's supposed to be celebrating my son conquering cancer. Am I being overly paranoid? I see V10 trucks and Excursions all the time with more miles than my own. I just worry that the rust will just be too much and the driveshaft will fall off, or the transmission will fail while we're towing up the Bighorns, or in Yellowstone. You get the picture.
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I am sick that my 2008 F250 with 107K miles is exhibiting signs of rust this spring.. While filling up the tank saw a bit of a bubble on the left side top of the wheel well. Another one on the passenger side. I've had the truck since new and have tried to keep it as clean as I can being that it is a daily driver in the rust belt. Certainly thought that I'd get more than 6 years before the rot showed up. Don't remember my 1999 F350 exhibiting that, but it was a dually and had the fiberglass fenders that might have hidden it.
Took it to the local body shop and he told me to get used to it, just a matter of time around here. He said he could work on it, but it would never be fixed, rust would eventually return. He suggested sand blasting myself, repairing as I could, oiling the inside behind the tail lights and bolting on some Bushwacker flares. Having driven Ford trucks all my 40 years of driving I'm going to be looking at Dodges next time I buy.
Drivers side ...
Passenger side ...
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have an 04 f150 that is starting to show some rust in the rear wheel wells. Right now there is just a bit of rust where the painted panel is seamed to the inner panel around the arch, but I can see small spots where the paint is starting to bubble about an inch out on the outside of the panel. I want to keep this thing looking nice for a few more years; what should I do?
I'm a very good welder, can hold my own when turning wrenches, have done lots of metal fabrication as well as painting with a cup gun, but I have very little autobody experience.
I am thinking there is rust between the inner and outer panels and that removing the surface rust and repainting would be a very temporary repair, correct? Could I cover it up with some sort of wheel well liner? If so, how to I slow the existing rust? Is there any sort of partial preformed steel panel/well that allow you to cut off the rusty stuff and weld new stuff on? I'm a little leary of the last thought- I could do the fabbing, but not sure how I'd do getting it back to 'smooth'
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My rear fenders are pitting and bubbling with rust on both sides. I had my local body shop have at it and it looked good for about 6 months. Now bubbling up again. I see in older trucks like mine that this is a common problem. I'll probably have to replace rhr box if I really want to fix it? Or just learn to live with it.
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Having issues with rear wheel wells rusting, mine is a 2004 f-250. I wax at least 10 times a yr. Can't believe I have rust there...
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I have a 2011 Sonata Limited, I'm noticing some heavy rusting in the wheel wells especially in the rear (not sure if wells are the right term), what can I do?
It's very ugly, It has very heavy surface rust, the car is 2011, I don't remember seeing this much damaged when I purchased the car last winter. I took it to the dealership, they said they cant change it because it is purely aesthetic and the components still work.
I'm researching rust proofing, but that seems more like a preventative action than a remedy, what can I do, it really annoys me every time I look at it. I don't know why Hyundai chose such poor material inside the wheels that rusts so easily. I have compared it to other Sonatas I see on the street, mine is a lot worse.
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So I was wondering if I could get everyone's input on this. I recently got a 2013 FX2 5.0 with the 3.55 axle. I traded in a 2007 5.4 FX2. It seems everyday I learn something new. I would like to discuss the difference between both trucks. I will list a few DIFFRENCES and if you all could list a few more that would be great....I am sure there are some I don't know.
5.0 motor, 6 speed transmission, Electronic locking rear end, Electronic fans versus clutch fan system, Bigger rotors/ brakes, electronic power steering, no fuel cap, Power fold mirrors and I ASSUME I can remove these spark plugs without breaking them.
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When should I get the first oil change in our 2013 F150 5.0? We took a 1,000 mile trip right after getting the truck. It's been two weeks and I have put around 1,600 miles on the truck.
Also, how often is everyone getting regular oil changes with the 5.0?
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