Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2013 - AC Fluctuates From Cold To Warm With Heavy Damp Smell
May 18, 2014
AC used for the first time since purchasing the truck last Oct. I notice and passengers in truck with me as well notice that the AC is not strong at all and it fluctuates from cold to warm with a heavy damp smell almost like its letting fresh air in mixing with the cold AC. It seems to be doing this more so when driving but will also do it at at idle after driving. Of course dealership states perfect temp blowing @34 and Freon at perfect levels. Max AC will not blow you out of the truck and reg ac at lowest setting feels like its on a vent setting. When AC first comes out it smells very damp mildew smell. 2013 F-150 Limited 3.5.....
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Got a 13 f150 with the 5.0. I bought it used with about 14 thous kms, now it has 17. Ever since I owned it I noticed the idle was a bit jumpy warm or cold. I didn't really pay any attention to it as it wasnt throwing a CEL or anything but now that I have a roush exhaust and intake I have started to notice it a lot more....not that its worse but at idle my truck sounds like a boat. Weird comparison I know. It seems like it'll jump within +/- 200 rpm @ idle which IIRC is 1K rpm.
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I was a proud owner of this 2013 F150 3.7L, when i bought it brand new, but now after 30000 miles, or after last oil change the engine is making an inconsistent tick sound when warm. The sound can be somewhat compared to parts of exhaust cooling down because it blends in with that sound pretty well. The sound might have been present before the oil change however I have not noticed any sounds until after the oil change was done.
The sound is an inconsistent but repetitive tick, I mean tick-5second break-double tick-3second break-tick-10second break. Sound is present only when warm at around 500rpm and is harder to notice if engine is revved to like 2000rpm, but by increasing engine speed the sound is also more intense and faster. No mods done to the truck, not driven hard. I did put premium gas couple times.
There is no sound after starting the engine in a situation where the truck was sitting in a driveway overnight, even by the time i get to work (5km highway and 5km city) driving it moderately it does not always make the sound by the time i get to work. So now i suspect three things.
1. I have been idling my car a lot and sometimes used the cheapest gas from some no name gas stations.
2. When oil gets warm it gets thin and then it is somehow causing this sound.
3. There is just something wrong with the engine.
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So the other morning I drive the 140 miles out of town to work for the week. when I pull up to the job site the cooling fans were revving really really high! never heard this before. then it went back to normal after I opened the gate and parked my truck and shut it off. I'm driving maybe 5 miles tops to the job and back to the motel every day. however that is far enough that my heater should be warming up and it's not even coming close to warm. it blows cold air. and to compound that I'm not sure the cooling fans are even working. they don't appear to be. Is there a connection here?
2011 xlt 4x4 super crew.....
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I have a 2014 Hyundai SFS 2.4L with about 50,000 miles and love it so far. However, I have a concern, when I am driving on the highway or even back roads the air conditioning cranks real cold. However, when idling at a light there's an obvious temperature difference that is warmer. I have ECO "off" because when ECO was on it completely shut off the air when accelerating or idling. Is this a scroll compressor? The reason I ask is my FORD had a scroll compressor and exhibited the same symptoms and it turned out it was a $35 faulty valve, but convincing numerous shops it was, was the problem. Also, could it be low Freon? If so, does it take R-134A and is it something I can do myself?
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5.0 coyote exhaust leak .. Since the cold weather has arrived i have noticed a new noise. During cold start engine warm up I hear a nice little tick-tick-tick which sounds to me like an exhaust leak. Is this a common problem? I have just over 58,000 miles would this be covered under powertrain or do they have some nice exclusions for exhaust?
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I've got a 2013 ecoboost with 31,000 mile on it. Generally it's been good but at 30,000 mile it started sounding like a diesel on cold starts. Usually after sitting overnight the first start rattles like a 6.0 liter diesel for about 3-8 seconds then it's quiet. It won't do it again all day usually. The dealer says there's no codes so everything it all good. It never did this until I hit 30,000 miles.
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My 2014 Accord i4 CVT has 7000miles and it has acted a little strange ever since I pushed it to 3500rpm at Sport mode and then I maybe abruptly shifted it to Drive mode, at which point it made some whining noise shortly. But don’t get me wrong, acceleration was gentle and I don’t ever beat a car.
Since that incidence, it idles at 1500rpm upon cold start at P and fluctuates between 1000rpm and 1100rpm after it warms up a little bit (still in Park). When on stop (brake) on D, it has slight rough idle that periodically comes and goes, which gets better when the A/C is off but not completely resolves. Acceleration is sluggish and lagging, and it has some “dragging/sluggish” feel on coasting as well. When braking, it takes more effort and brake feels stiffer as if it lacks some break boost. Also, the electric power steering gets heavy/tight (I think this could be more of a sensor/input problem rather than the motor).
All these symptoms come and go together except for the fluctuating idle upon cold start, which is persistent. Gently pushing gas at 1200 rpm for, say 10 seconds, tend to “free” the tight steering wheel, and car starts to act more normally with better coasting and acceleration, and more responsive brake for a while. And problem comes back. Also, turning off the A/C seems to make the car act behave notably better but I am cautious of this point since it is known that Honda’s A/C system really takes away the engine power.
I had the dealer shop check for vacuum leak. The report says “check idle, check idle control, check for vacuum leaks ok, check or any codes, checks ok”, basically saying there is no vacuum leak. But I think it is still possible that they missed something. Dealer shops and some independent shops I visited aren’t so willing to figure out what is going on, and I basically need to ask them “check this and check that”.
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Why is the rug on the passenger side of my v10 egg wet. It would appear that it happens after heavy rain....blocked plug somewhere. Have also been using air conditioning alot.... Also could getting egg stuck deep in mud in the spring have anything to do with this...blocked plug?
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I have a 2009 lexus es 350. Its my baby since new. I have around 75,000 miles on it. Recently when I start the vehicle I noticed a heavier than usual exhaust smell, with some very very light white exhaust. The car seems to drive fine in every way.
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I have a persistent leak that causes the front passenger carpet to get wet after a heavy rain. Truck went to the dealer under warranty and they resealed the third brake light. Not sure if it ever fixed the problem, but I probably didn't check it as often as I should have after the repair. We've had a few good rain storms and the carpet is getting pretty wet. Since the truck is now out of warranty (2011 F150) I made a new gasket for the third brake light. I think it's pretty well sealed, so I'm thinking the leak is coming from somewhere else.
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I have 1700 miles on my truck and the A/C cycles between cold and warm air. I have taken it to 2 Ford dealers and they agree there is something wrong but their tests are apparently up to Ford specs. They logged complaints with Ford and they were told this was by design with the new trucks and it was normal for the compressor to constantly cycle. New 2013??
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I just bought a 2010 F150 with 5.4 and 6R80 transmission. According to records the trans fluid was changed only 1 time at 101,000 miles. Shift from 1-2 and 2-3 was a little sloppy, but really not too bad. Everything else shifts and downshifts nicely. It now has 227,000 miles, so I decided to pull the pan, look and see how much trash was in the pan and on the magnet. Very, very light film on the magnet, the fluid was brown colored, but no burnt smell at all. What concerned me was the fact that I drained out only 5 1/2 qts of fluid. Replaced the filter and added a drain plug to the pan for next time.
On the refill, I started with 5 qts but I ended up adding another 4 1/4 qts (1/2 qt at a time between checks) to fill the trans for a total of 9 1/4 qts. Of course, trans was at operating temp in park (Damn those catalytic converters and exhaust get hot!!) I even let it warm up and re-checked it the next day just to be sure it wasn't overfilled or low. No apparent leak except for a little dampness around the driveshaft yoke. Should I be concerned about taking so much to refill? Haven't had a chance to drive it (Will tomorrow) to make sure it drives OK.
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I got some issues with my f150 2009 supercab... 6,5 box 5.4 6speed 160k on it...
For the past 30 k my truck vibrates between 20/30 kmh when accelerating mostly when making a right turn and when engine is warm, feels just like driving with 4x4 and doing a u-turn....
I'll get the transmission flushed but didn't work (does shift smoother though). They said the u-joints were still good ,no play. I don't hear any strange noise either
In the last while i read a lot about trouble with the pinion angle/driveshaft/slip yoke and what all on the newer f150
Can I grease the slip yoke myself easily or? Is there a complete aftermarket driveshaft available that solves the problem permanently instead of temporary or would it be the transfercase? Cause i didn't buy this truck new so not sure if the transfer case oil ever got changed,or does it not need to be changed ever?
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Have a raw gas smell inside the cab, what could be causing this. When heater is on and vent at mid section I notice the smell coming in worse.
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I sometimes pulloff after a minute then Im off, but slowly until the engine temp gets to the middle. I won't go caveman on it until the oil temp is almost in the middle too (never quite gets to the middle for the engine oil temp)
Is this logic right? Lexus guy told me it'll warm up as you go. If it was like zero degrees out then yes Id let it idle for 10-15 minutes.
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2014 ES 300 hybrid- Rear seats are extra warm to hot. Took my car twice to the dealer and they are not able to locate the problem.
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I have a 2014 Lexus IS350 Fsport. When I press the button outside air mode and no fans are on. I get warm/hot air even when the outside temp is cold.
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I've had my Galant since mid-May. I bought it in a rush as a replacement vehicle after a car accident. Soon after I noticed a damp/musty smell coming from the A/C. I read that changing the cabin air filter would fix the problem, but since the Galant doesn't have a cabin air filter, I had a dealer use a foaming cleaning agent that was supposed kill off any mold that may have been present in the A/C system, the cleaner seems to have fixed the damp smell.
Right before I had this done I noticed that the floorboards on the front passenger side were consistently damp. It's been that way for about a month, and the A/C continues to leak. Now I've noticed that for the past few days when I'm trying to defog the windshield on my morning commute, the heater is blowing cold air even thought the A/C is switched off. Are these these two problems related? Also, would I be able to repair them at home?
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I recently puchased a 2012 F-150 with the "ecoboost" engine. Recently I've been noticing an odor of what seems to be like rubber burning coming from the rear end of the truck.
It's very prominent when I stomp the gas pedal, with the traction control disabled especially. There's quite a bit of smoke coming from the rear, and the truck seems to over-accelerate for a V6. Should I take it to the dealer for repair?
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I just picked up my new 2011 F150 SCrew with Ecoboost on friday (pictures soon). I noticed after driving it a little, there is a noticeable burning smell...almost like an oil smell. It is even more noticeable after I had been driving with a little more throttle.. i.e. getting the turbos working a little. I attribute this to the normal coatings of oils on the parts but it still is a little concerning at times. I'm sure I'm worried about nothing and this is normal...
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