Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 - Substantial Opening In The Lower Center - Add Protection Shield?
Mar 15, 2013
On my '12 F-150 Ecoboost there is a substantial opening in the lower center of the vehicle. I know that you can purchase a small after-market grill insert for that area. Is it wise to do that, or is in fine the way it is?
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I have a 2012 screw 4x4 eb. I noticed under the truck there is some sort of heat shield under the transmission. The owners manual suggests removing this and the lower air dam before going off road. Can these items be removed permanently? Any effect on mpg's?
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My drivers side door just started clicking when opening or shutting ...
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I had the oil change message up for a few days. Each time I started it I'd just hit reset to make the message disappear. Today I got around to changing the oil and now my "Oil Change Required" will not go away.
I've tried holding the buttons (info, reset and setup) for a while, nothing. I tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, still there.
The cruise control buttons still work. If I open a door, it tells me it's open then returns to oil message. Just can't clear the message.
I should add, it's a 2012 F150 XLT with a 5.0. No sync system.
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Mounting the shock with the boot up or down? I know it doesn't matter according to Bilstein but one way has to be better than the other.
Second. What are the torque specs for the upper and lower bolts? I know the lower front is around 350lbs but haven't found anything for the rest. found out the rear bolts are torqued to 66lb.
Third. The front shocks didn't come with a boot to protect the shaft. Is one needed when the shock is installed?
Truck is a 2012 F150 FX4.
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This fiber material doesn't hold up to mud and sand very well. So much so, that the front hole ripped through. It won't stay fastened. I have all of the twist bolts still. Looking for a way to fix the shield so it will hold. I tried exposing a washer to it, but the epoxy doesn't like the material very well. I know the owners manual says to remove the shield if you are going to be off roading, but I hesitate to leave it off 100% of the time.
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I have a 2010 F150 FX4 with the 5.4L, and lately under slow movement (less that 20km/h it is sounding like there is a rattle. I can try to get a video of the sound later, now I'm wondering if the universal bearings in the driveshaft would be making this noise or if it could be the 4wd actuators failing? Would either of these make a loud rattle? (Sounds like a heat shield shaking but all are tight). Had a Ranger up until last year so just learning the ins and outs of F150 life.
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Looking at the specs, the screw 5.5' truck's cab height is 76.7" (4x4). For the 6.5' bed, that cab height is 75.6".
This seems to be true for most of the configurations: the shorter, the taller.
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The 6 button powercode remote start and alarm will shut the engine down if you open the door after remote starting.
Here is the fix, I found it somewhere else. It's nice doing stuff yourself that the dealer tells you it cant be done.
open the drivers door
turn on the ignition
hold the program/override button for 15 sec (horn will chirp 3 times)
press the override button again horn will chirp 4 times
" " horn will chirp 5 times
" " horn will chirp 6 times
" " horn will chirp 7 times
" " horn will chirp 8 times letting you know you are in option bank 5.
press the panic button on the fob horn will chirp once
" " chirp twice
" " chirp three times
" " chirp 4 times
" " chirp 5 times
press the lock button on the fob once...your led alarm light will now be off.
Turn off the ignition
you are done
Enjoy
Activate the remote start open the door(smile) just don't press the brake before you put key in ignition and turn.
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This is not on our F150, but rather our Flex that has the 3.5 Ecoboost.
Recently we have been having a bucking problem at lower rpms. Usually when taking off and hitting a slight grade. Doesn't really have a problem at highway speeds. Usually only on takeoff when it shifts through the gears. If you accelerate more, you can stop it for the moment. Weather doesn't make a difference. Also can feel a slighting surging sometimes and can see it on the tack. Like a 2 sec alternating surge. Doesn't do this all the time though. I have replaced plugs with iridium, gapped at 34.
I also purchased two motorcraft coil packs and installed them in different configurations as to see if I could isolate it. No change. I HAVE NO CEL YET. At all. Wish it would! I have tried to make it buck hard enough to throw the code to no avail. I have heard of condensation in the intercooler, but from what I have read it is a higher RPM symptom..This feels just like the COP problem on my 5.4. Unless I have 3 or 4 bad COPS and no CEL. If I could just get a code.
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I am in need of some measurements on this type of center console. Length, width, height.
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For the last week now, the whole center console (navigation, radio, climate controls, etc.) on my 2012 F150 will just go out while I'm driving. Sometimes it will come back on in a few seconds, sometimes it takes 5-10 minutes, sometimes I have to turn the vehicle off and then back on.
I have the extended warranty through Carmax, so I am covered through 100K. I took it into them and the screen was off, and the person checking in the vehicle confirmed it was not working. But of course, when the technician restarted the vehicle, it was working and he has no idea what is wrong nor how too diagnose it since it is working.
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Ive noticed while looking at online photos of the 2011 F150s, that on the FX4 and above trim levels, there are 2 sets of buttons on the center gear shifter. On mine, there is only one for tow/haul mode. I can make out in the pictures that its still there, but what is the other button?
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I have a 2013 Ford F150 XLT Supercrew with the 'jump' seat in the middle. When I fold down the center seat, I hit my elbow while driving and turning.
I'm contemplating removing the center jump seat and replacing it with a Ford center console. Is it just a matter of removing the center jump seat bolts, then bolt in the new center console?
I see on the Ford parts website a adobe center console : 2013 Ford F-150 Floor Console | FordParts.com
Of course, then what do I do with a center jump seat?
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I am looking at using a 2009 F150 XLT to rig up a soil sampling truck. I was hoping to remove the front-passenger and front-centre seat to make room for a probe that will go through the floor into the soil. As I was looking through articles to see if this was possible I read that some newer models dont make this easy, as there are air bag sensors and seat belt sensors that screw up the process. Before going out to look at the truck and make an offer, I was wondering - if there are any tips for removing these seats.
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2014 fx4 6.2. Had a coolant leak. Brought to dealer for warranty work. Found a leak in middle lower tube area. Said they replaced radiator part # BL3Z-8005-D. It sure looks like my old radiator still under the hood complete with squished bugs. Am I missing something?
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Having problem with the lower radiator hose rubbing on the serpentine belt...
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I noticed pulling out of the garage today that my car is leaking oil. It looks like it's all getting on the lower splash shield, then dropping out the back from the passenger side. It's leaving about 8-10 drops a night it looks like.
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I have a 2009 f150 fx4 it will not blow cold air or heat on any setting. I have replaced the resistor and it stopped working again if i smack the black box the resistor is in it will work again. My question is where is the blower motor and how hard of a job is it to change. I just ordered the motor.
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I have a 2009 screw with ~60k miles. It is used for DD and tows our small camper or my flat deck w/jeep.
The other day I noticed an issue when turning right. The wheel gets hard to turn and does not want to return to center. There is also a low speed clunk you can feel in the steering wheel/column itself.
The truck is at the dealer now and they said the rack needs to be replaced and there is something in the column they need to replace too. I have the extended warranty, so this is all but covered 100%. I just have a deductible to pay.
I have not hit anything with the truck, so I am not sure what caused these issues.
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Had clear bra installed on my car. They had to redo the mirrors and the hood pieces because they didnt install the self healing film the first time. After the tech installed the second pieces I noticed an annoying whistling noise from the drivers mirror. I taped it off and even wedged a piece of thin plastic in the gap between the base of the mirror and the car to see if it would stop.
Anyway did a little research and found to my dismay that guys with the 4GS and 3IS are having the same issue when installing paint protection film on the drivers mirrors. As far as they know the remedy is to remove the film. I am assuming it has to do with the positioning or thickness of the film because it did not make any noise with the basic film installed and where it was installed.
I just went down to the garage and peeled it off, took it for a ride, and BOOM .....silence . Crazy that a thin film on the mirror could cause wind noise .
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