Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 - While Changing Air Filter Broke Nipple Connected To Small Hose
Feb 26, 2016
I broke a nipple that a small hose connects to while I was changing my air filter. What this is and possibly some fix-it tips. I attached a couple of pics. one broke and one not broke.
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I had my LS at the dealer this morning getting the fuel regulator recall and they noticed that my radiator had a very small leak at the nipple where the overflow hose is connected. From what I've read, this is a very common issue that I probably caused by leaning on the fitting at some point while working on the car.
I'm no stranger to DIY and am willing to take this on. I'm looking at replacements online and I see two brass fittings at the bottom. Are those for transmission cooler lines? If so, wouldn't replacing the radiator cause the loss of some transmission fluid?
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How much my mileage will suffer if I go with a 3:73 rearend instead of a 3:55 ? Towing and not towing ? Truck will be 2012 F150 4X4.
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I have a 12 F150 with the 5.0L. it has 27000 miles on the clock. Noticed twice a small puff of white smoke coming out of the exhaust and decided to check the oil level and it was a quart low. The last oil change was done at 23000 miles and used Full Synthetic Pennzoil and a K&N filter. Called the local dealership I purchased at and they told me NOT to use full synthetic and should only be using Motorcraft semi synthetic with a Motorcraft filter. I know the dealerships will only endorse and advice Motorcraft products but what does everyone else use and think. In the meantime I added a quart of oil and all is fine.
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Noticed change in power after changing the fuel filters on 6.7 .... Seems like it has a fuel restriction at times maybe even air somewhere in the line. Thought I felt the truck hesitate after hitting the gas and Cavitating when I hit the gas petal. Both new filters are motorcraft parts. I did follow the procedure after installing filters by turning the key on 6 times waiting 30 seconds in between. Could it be a problem with the fuel pump. I should say I didn't have this until I changed the primary filter.
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Was going to change my transmission fluid and filter today but when I got under the truck to see what tools I needed, I was not sure I could drop the pan enough to get it off.
I have a 2009 V10 4X4 and the exhaust pipe catalytic are running down each side right under where the transmission pan is. It looks like I can get to all the bolts, but because of the catalytic are right under the flange of the pan on each side, the pan will not be able to drop straight down. It looks like it may drop about 3 inches before it hits the catalytic.
Will that be enough to slide the pan forward or maybe tilt it to get it out? Has anyone dropped the pan on their 4X4 with the 5RW100? Just looking to have someone say I can get it out before I try it.
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Looks like my gas tank door spring busted.
Is that an easy replacement? Any way to fix it? It won't close completely anymore.
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I was loading some 2x4's and one hit the rear tail light housing and broke it easily. Hard to believe it broke so easy. Will be picking up a new one at the dealer! Wish it was made out of high impact plastic . You can't just get the clear cover. You have the buy the whole unit.
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Noticed today in the snow, I was pulling out of the driveway in 2H and the rear tires broke loose, weird sound coming from the front end like the truck was trying to engage the 4 wheel drive but it wouldn't go in. Traction control? Threw it in 4H and the sound went away????
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If you have a coolant leak at the y hose for the intake manifold and the thermostat, make sure you replace the upper radiator hose as well as the y hose.
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Having problem with the lower radiator hose rubbing on the serpentine belt...
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My wife purchased a new F150 4x4 in late 09. We have driven it about 5000 miles. It is garaged year around. Her brother offered to do the first oil change but can't get the filter off. He has tried every type of wrench and has the metal body of the filter nearly completely torn off up to the rim of the filter near the seat and it still won't screw off. we are thinking that is might have gotten cross threaded at the factory and over tightened.
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I've got a 2013 ford f150 XLT with 3.5L ecoboost that I purchased brand new. Been doing 5k mile interval oil changes with full synthetic. Oher than that its never needed any work/service done.
Well, I just hit 20,000 miles and I figured it was time to change the air filter. Bought one off amazon and went to change it out. That's when I discovered that the air filter box had a large gap in it from where it was incorrectly installed by dealership/factory. It was sealed incorrectly because the plastic barrier mat at the front of the truck was caught in between the two air box pieces creating a 0.5-1 inch gap in the air box seal.
I figure its been like that the entire 20,000 miles as I've never noticed it, and I've been driving around with essentially no air filter (or little air filtration). I installed the new filter correctly and fixed the problem
My question is:
Did this hurt the truck at all?
Can I expect any negative consequences from this?
Do I need to perform any additional maintenance because of this?
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So my wife nailed a small spike buck and he when up under the truck. On his way back, his antlers hit the intercooler. One side tube was collapsed and the other collapsed but tore open. Has to repair one the tubes and, if so, with what. I was thinking I could pull the dent out with a pick and then put some sort of epoxy over it.
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I just picked up a 2010 f150 xtr 4x4 few weeks ago and I notice the bed shake is pretty bad when hitting small bumps int he road. I watch in my rear view mirror and it seems the drivers side is doing all the shaking, and the passenger side of the box seems solid (minimal movement like a truck should). It only shakes on bumps and does not increase with speed or anything so im assuming its Not my tires? I can literally feel the shaking in my feet in sync as i watch the box rattle in my rear view. Also look at my passenger seat and it looks like a vibrating chair, an extreme one.
I got under the truck everything looks solid, checked all the bed bolts are tight, i honestly have no clue at this point. I use to have a 2000 ranger and honestly I find the box shake on my new 2010 is just as bad as my old truck. My brother and cousin both have 2011 f150's and i find theres to ride alot nicer than mine. My truck is a supercab and theirs are crew cabs, however i don't see it making that big of a difference in ride? Checked tire pressures i have 30lbs in the back tires and 35 in the front. Like it said its only on bumps, doesn't start shaking on a smooth road, so im expecting some sort of bad suspension component?
trucks a 2010 f150 xtr 4x4 supercab with 18" wheels
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I have a 2013 F150 Ecobost. It is a 4 door 4x4 with the single rear drive shaft. When I pull my boat I get a very strange vibration between 60 and 70 MPH Mostly around 65. I had my balance checked all around on truck( not by Ford dealer) and took my Bass boat to the factory and had them go thru all the wheels and balance. It worked but I still have vibration. When I'm pulling the boat and the vibration starts I can see the trolling motor shaking on the front of the boat. At this time I do not think it is the boat. I have a tongue weight of about 350 Lbs. Having problems with F150 with a little load on the rear. Truck and boat are both new with low mileage.
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I purchased a trailer recently and decided to change the wiring from 4 wire to a 7 wire. I matched up one for one and blew a fuse on the truck. Looking at my manual there are a number of fuses related to the towing or trailer hitch wiring.
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I am changing my oil for the first time on my 2011 F-150 4X4 with the 5.0 V8 and needed info about the location of the oil drain plug or a pic of it along with the plug size.
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After I change my oil, I need to reset back to "miles to empty" from "% left on oil" warning. 2009 F150, XLT Supercab. I do not know how to do this.
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I recently purchased my 2011 F150, which is the first new vehicle I've ever owned. I have always changed my own oil, and if possible I would like to continue doing this myself. My only concern is any potential warranty claims down the road.
If I change my own oil can Ford blame any drivetrain failures on me? What should I do to maintain records of my own maintenance to prove I've changed the oil regularly?
I am aware that I must use synthetic oil and a Motorcraft filter.
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My new to me 2010 f150 4x4 superCrew Lariat is great. Got the 6spd tranny. Do a lot of maint. Myself and wanting to change tranny fluid since I hit 90k. Didn't see a dipstick. Called the stealership and they told me I can't do the change n/c I need certain equipment.
Are there any write ups? Are there any more surprises with this truck, like routine maint issues that I need to be aware of? I plan on doing diff fluid changes. Is this possible?
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