Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 - Truck Idles A Little Too Fast
Jul 1, 2012
Truck idles a little too fast? I don't even have to press on the accelerator to back-up and out of my driveway, and it's a little bit uphill. (2012 Screw, 4X4 Ecoboost, 3.73) It goes into the shop in the morning for the modification to the intercooer (I think?) and a reflash of the computer.
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I've only had my F150 for about 3 weeks and I think I've discovered a design flaw-
If you park on a 20% or steeper incline and the tank is less than about 1/8th full - the truck won't start. It has the 36 gallon tank - and the fuel pickup is located in the center.
The service rep told me that they have the same problem with the showroom trucks when they park them on a grass hill in front of the dealership. They have to roll them down onto the street to start them if the gas tank is too low...
Boy, I tell ya, there's no disclaimer sticker telling me to not let the gas get too low if you live in an area with lots of hills. I don't think I would have bought it if I had know this. The service guy described another owner of an F250 having the same problem...
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Spent 6 1/2 hours yesterday driving back from my job to home in a snow storm. Conditions weren't too bad when it was solid snow floor the sections that had been plowed and had a 50/50 mix of packed snow and bare pavement were a little sketchy. It was my first drive in snow out side of driving around town since buying this truck. I spent most of the drive in 4 auto and in some spots switched to 4 high. When I was looking over the manual, I didn't see anything about maximum speed while in 4 wheel drive. I kept it under 50 the entire time since that was the cut off in my tundra. What is top speed while 4wd is engaged? another related question, Whats the difference between 4 auto and 4 high?
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I bought a 2010 f150 from the company I work for.... It had a blown front diff, when I bought it, I just put a complete front diff assembly and front drive shaft on it. Thought I was golden, but when I accelerate fast there is a slipping/ snapping noise which sounds like it's coming from transfer case area... Accelerate slow and steady up to highway speeds it doesn't happen. This problem only happens in four wheel drive.... what this could be!???
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I have a 1995 ford thunderbird 3.8 l. I changed the heads according to a chilton book. The car ran well for approximately 2 weeks and all of a sudden it started Idling high. I turned the idle screw all the way off and no change.
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I want to lower my 2014 FX2 supercrew 2/4. Can't seem to find any drop spindles for it. What are you using to drop your trucks. I don't want to change the driving or handling of the truck any more than necessary.
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My truck doesn't blow hot air no more, just ice cold, for sure no fun with -15 c the temp. gauge shows that the engine is warm, blower motor works, got coolant replaced last summer...
F150 2009 xlt 5.4L....
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So my truck hit 1,000 miles. I decided to change the oil to get the factory oil out and remove any material that may be in there from the break in. I know the motor hasn't fully broken in. My question is what is the purpose of that shroud under the front of the truck? It seems like it can almost get caught on parking bumpers. It also makes it very difficult to get under there and change the oil. I had to go from the side. Need to remove it? It seems to be held by 2 good size bolts by the frame.
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I'm having a problem with my 2010 F150 4x4. I'm a mail carrier and when I'm stopped at mail boxes my truck flutters and and acts like it's not getting gas or not getting fire. If I give it gas it goes on. It may do this 1 time a day or 100 times a day. My check engine light has come on and then after awhile it will go off. The Ford dealership thinks it is an oil pressure problem but the oil pressure gauge doesn't drop when this happens.
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My wife and mom went to the dealership today to get remote start installed on their F-150's (bad decision not to do it from the factory). Both trucks had it installed, and it starts the truck fine, but the problem is as soon as they put the key in the ignition to turn it to "Run", the truck shuts off and they have to restart it. The tech says thats "Normal", and it's because of the "My Key" feature.
Neither of the trucks have had any of the keys set up to be "My Keys", all are exactly how they are from the factory. Something doesn't seem right....
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I have pulled a pop up with my truck before with no problem. I bought a boat on Friday and pulled it too and from the lake ( 2.5 hours each way). The boat is 21 feet and weighs 3000 pounds empty, no gas. The trailer is a bumper pull. I was pulling no more then 4,000. Under 50 mph everything felt fine. At times when going over 50 the truck was shaking. It would happen and then stop. It does not seem to be coming from the engine.
It would happen up hill and down hill. I was thinking it was just the vibration from the boat, can a load that size make the whole truck shake?? Also the truck made a horrible clunk after backing the boat down the ramp and pulling it back up. It happened when I took the truck out of park into drive. This can be something other then the transmission???
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So today was the hottest day I've encountered, since purchasing my '13, FX4, EcoBoost. It was 91 degrees out, which I know isn't THAT hot for some parts of the country.
That said, it's the first time since I've owned my '13, EcoBoost that I needed to use A/C all day. One thing I noticed is that the A/C fans are EXTREMELY loud.
The noise outside seems louder than an early 6.0 Powerstroke idling, or say even the 7.3 PSD. Sounds like a 747 taking off.
Is this normal or is something wrong with my truck? If I turn the A/C off, the super loud fan turns off, and the low speed fan for what I assume is the radiator keeps on, but is barely heard.
I don't remember the A/C fan being that loud on my previous truck '11, 5.0, XLT, but it had more equipment, and the engine wasn't as quiet as my EcoBoost now, which is almost silent.
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We have a 2009 F150 XLT 4.6 3V. Starts fine for several days then all of the sudden it won't crank. It turns over normally but will not start. Then after 10 - 15 minutes of trying it starts. Does fine for a day or two then it happens again. It is not throwing any codes. We have replaced the spark plugs, crank shaft sensor, and checked all the fuses.
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I have a 1991 S10 with a 4.3L V6 TBI that recently began having trouble cold starting, meaning that at a mere 40F I can crank it over and over and it will not catch. If I plug the block heater in for at least an hour, it usually will start, but at a very low, very rough idle. Once it has about 30 seconds or so to warm up, it will then idle TOO FAST at 1500 rpm, and stay that way for the first few miles of driving, which makes it rather awkward to drive, being a 5-speed. Once its been driven awhile and fully warmed up, it runs normally. (I'm running a 180F t-stat.)
The IAC valve, block temp sensor, and TPS sensor, were all replaced last year, so I'd find it hard to believe that one of those could be the problem. I put Heet treatment (red bottle) in the fuel, changed fuel filter and reset the computer. (Although it's never given a trouble code.) The problem is still there.
My local mechanic says replace the ECM, but he hasn't actually diagnosed that as the problem, so I think he may just be taking a wild guess. (He hates OBD1 systems with a passion!).
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I have a '09 Ford F-150 Lariat, 5.4 with a lighting difficulty. Previous had it in for service for exterior lighting that was intermittent and uncontrolled. A door module was replaced and reprogramming performed by the dealer. Worked OK for awhile, but today I noticed that brake lights were on while the truck was parked.
Checked all that I could think of then pressed the caution light button, activating the front/rear caution lights. Turned the caution button off. Brake lights went off. About an hour later, noticed the brake lights were on again. Tried different things to deactivate the brake lights, but to no avail - brake lights stayed on. Have disconnected the battery - this is where it sits at the moment.
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2009 F-150 Lariat 4x4 with 5.4L.
My truck will rev no more than three times then idle for about 10 seconds. Then rev 3 times then idle for about 10 seconds. It keeps doing this. For weeks. Idles about 500, revs to 1500. The dealer had it in the shop for 3 days and found nothing wrong with it. I have a video but it won't let me upload it. I don't know what I can do since the DEALERSHIP doesn't even know what to do. Doesn't throw a code.
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Today while towing a 10ft trailer with a golf cart my truck seemed kind of under powered.It has the 5.0 with 3.73 rear end.When I got to where I was going I looked under my truck and there were spots all over the rear end and axle and frame that looked like oil or transmission fluid. I cannot find any noticeable leaks. The air temp today was 100 and the transmission gauge stayed around 200.
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I have a 2011 Ford F-150 XLT. I did take the fuses out of the glovebox and installed them. So trailer lights and blinkers work fine. I just purchased a small teardrop tailer. My problem is that the trailer lights are always on when plugged into the truck.They are on even when lights are off and key is out.
I am assuming that the problem is with the wiring of the trailer harness but I wanted to ask here first in case the problem might be with the truck. I have never had a trailer so I am unsure if the 7 prong plug is always hot. Obviously it is on my truck. Is this way it should be?
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I have a 2011 5.0 screw with 3.73 gears. Today my wife has the truck to haul stuff for her craft show. She calls and says the truck keeps stalling, like she had to keep restarting the truck 3-4 times to back up 10 feet. The dealership we bought it from is going to pick it up and give us another truck to use while they figure it out.
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My 2012 F150 has developed an odd issue.... It doesn't seem to want to always take off in first gear. I've had it happen several times where the truck would take off in a high gear but yesterday was the worst yet....I was towing my boat and the truck attempted to take off in 5th gear....I threw it in neutral and back in drive and it was fine, what's causing it.
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I recently bought a 09 F150 Screw short box. I just hooked it up to my camper for the first time and was measuring height on the corners of the truck to check my WD hitch. I noticed that the driver's side was higher than the passenger's side in the back of my truck. I checked again without the camper on some level ground and found the same thing - approximately 1 1/4" difference at the wheel wells and about 3/4" at the frame. I can't believe that this would be normal, so trying to figure out what happened here - maybe it got rear-ended?
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